Chemical Texture Services Flashcards
Cuticle is:
Tough exterior layer
Protects hair from damage
Cortex
Middle layer of hair
Responsible for strength and elasticity
How do you change natural wave pattern of hair?
Breaking through side bonds of the cortex
Medulla
Aka pith or core of hair
Doesn’t play role in chemical texture services
Fine hair may not contain medulla
What does pH mean?
Potential hydrogen
Acidity & alkalinity of substance
What does pH scale measure?
of hydrogen ions
Acidic substance has pH
…
Below 7
Alkaline substance has pH…
Above 7
What is natural pH of hair?
4.5-5.5
What do chemical solutions do to change hairs natural curl pattern?
Raise pH of hair to an alkaline
Coarse resistant hair with strong cuticle suit need what type of pH so.ution?
Alkaline
What are amino acids?
Compounds made up of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur
What are peptide bonds?
End bonds; join amino acids together end to end in long chains
Polypeptide chains
Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
Keratin proteins
Long coiled polypeptide chains
Side bonds
Cross linked polypeptide chains
Disulfide bonds:
Chemical side bonds formed when sulfur atoms in 2 adjacent protein chains are joined together.
Salt bonds
Weak physical side bonds that are result of an attraction between opp. Electrical charges
Easily broken when pH changes
Reform when pH goes back to normal
Hydrogen bonds
Weak physical side bonds that are the result of attraction between opp. Electrical charges
Easily broken by water (wet setting ) and heat (thermal styling)
Out of 3 side bonds, which is strongest?
Disulfide bond
How are salt bonds broken?
Changes in pH
What do alkaline permanent waving solutions do?
Soften & swell cuticle, which allows solution to penetrate the cortex
What happens when chem. waving solution is in cortex?
Solution breaks down disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction
What is a reduction reaction?
Addition of hydrogen or removal of oxygen
In permanent waving what is reduction reaction?
Addition of hydrogen
What is reducing agent used in permanent waving solution?
Thio
What is most common reducing agent in permanent waving solutions?
Thioglycolic acid
What is chemical hair relaxing?
Process of rearranging structure of curly hair into straighter or smoother form?
The chemistry in perms and relaxers is exactly the same…true or false
True
Most common types of chemical hair relaxers are:
Thio
Sodium hydroxide
Guanidine hydroxide
Extra curly hair grows in long twisted spirals or coils, with weakest sections where hair twists.
True or false,
True
In chem. hair relaxing whats the diff with the thio relaxers that use same ATG used in perms?
Higher concentration
Higher pH
Thicker thio relaxers with higher viscosity
Viscosity
Measure of thick/thin of a liquid that affects how fluid flows
The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, just as in permanents. True or false?
True