Chemical Texture Services Flashcards

1
Q

Cuticle is:

A

Tough exterior layer

Protects hair from damage

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

Cortex

A

Middle layer of hair

Responsible for strength and elasticity

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

How do you change natural wave pattern of hair?

A

Breaking through side bonds of the cortex

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

Medulla

A

Aka pith or core of hair
Doesn’t play role in chemical texture services
Fine hair may not contain medulla

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

What does pH mean?

A

Potential hydrogen

Acidity & alkalinity of substance

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

What does pH scale measure?

A

of hydrogen ions

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

Acidic substance has pH

A

Below 7

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

Alkaline substance has pH…

A

Above 7

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

What is natural pH of hair?

A

4.5-5.5

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

What do chemical solutions do to change hairs natural curl pattern?

A

Raise pH of hair to an alkaline

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

Coarse resistant hair with strong cuticle suit need what type of pH so.ution?

A

Alkaline

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

What are amino acids?

A

Compounds made up of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

What are peptide bonds?

A

End bonds; join amino acids together end to end in long chains

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

Polypeptide chains

A

Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

Keratin proteins

A

Long coiled polypeptide chains

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

Side bonds

A

Cross linked polypeptide chains

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
17
Q

Disulfide bonds:

A

Chemical side bonds formed when sulfur atoms in 2 adjacent protein chains are joined together.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
18
Q

Salt bonds

A

Weak physical side bonds that are result of an attraction between opp. Electrical charges
Easily broken when pH changes
Reform when pH goes back to normal

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
19
Q

Hydrogen bonds

A

Weak physical side bonds that are the result of attraction between opp. Electrical charges
Easily broken by water (wet setting ) and heat (thermal styling)

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
20
Q

Out of 3 side bonds, which is strongest?

A

Disulfide bond

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
21
Q

How are salt bonds broken?

A

Changes in pH

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
22
Q

What do alkaline permanent waving solutions do?

A

Soften & swell cuticle, which allows solution to penetrate the cortex

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
23
Q

What happens when chem. waving solution is in cortex?

A

Solution breaks down disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
24
Q

What is a reduction reaction?

A

Addition of hydrogen or removal of oxygen

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
25
Q

In permanent waving what is reduction reaction?

A

Addition of hydrogen

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
26
Q

What is reducing agent used in permanent waving solution?

A

Thio

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
27
Q

What is most common reducing agent in permanent waving solutions?

A

Thioglycolic acid

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
28
Q

What is chemical hair relaxing?

A

Process of rearranging structure of curly hair into straighter or smoother form?

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
29
Q

The chemistry in perms and relaxers is exactly the same…true or false

A

True

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
30
Q

Most common types of chemical hair relaxers are:

A

Thio
Sodium hydroxide
Guanidine hydroxide

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
31
Q

Extra curly hair grows in long twisted spirals or coils, with weakest sections where hair twists.

True or false,

A

True

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
32
Q

In chem. hair relaxing whats the diff with the thio relaxers that use same ATG used in perms?

A

Higher concentration
Higher pH
Thicker thio relaxers with higher viscosity

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
33
Q

Viscosity

A

Measure of thick/thin of a liquid that affects how fluid flows

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
34
Q

The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, just as in permanents. True or false?

A

True

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
35
Q

What is Japanese thermal straightener?

A

Combines use of thio relaxer with a flat iron

36
Q

What’s the active inedient in all hydroxide relaxers?

A

Hydroxide ion

37
Q

Hydroxide relaxers are very strong alkalis that can swell hair up to twice normal size. True or false?

A

True

38
Q

Why are hydroxide relaxers not compatible with thio relaxers , perm waves, or soft curl perms?

A

Diff in chemistry

39
Q

What is lanthionization?

A

Process where hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair
The relaxers remove a sulfur atom from the disulfide bond, converting it to a lanthionine bond

40
Q

Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for perm and won’t hold a curl. True or false?

A

True

41
Q

Metal hydroxide release

A

Ionic compounds formed by a metal

(Sodium, potassium, or lithium) which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen

42
Q

Sodium hydroxide relaxers Are commonly called

A

Lye relaxers

43
Q

What are often advertised as no mix no lye relaxers?

A

Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide (LiOH & KOH)

44
Q

Guan iodine hydroxide relaxers are also advertised as

A

No lye relaxers

45
Q

Which relaxer straightens hair completely and has less scalp irritation than other hydroxide relaxers? And must be mixed right before use?

A

Guanidine hydroxide

46
Q

What are sometimes used as low pH hair relaxers?

A

Sulfites and bisulfites

47
Q

What’s base cream?

A

Oily cream used to protect skin and scalp during hair relaxing

48
Q

Base relaxers

A

Require use of base cream to entire scalp prior to application of relaxer

49
Q

No base relaxer

A

Does not require application of protective base. Contains protective base cream designed to melt at body temp

50
Q

Metal hydroxide relaxers

A

No mixing

Only one compound

51
Q

Lye based relaxers

A

Oldest
Most common
12.5-13.5 pH

52
Q

No lye relaxers

A

No mix no lye

But gave same chemistry as lye

53
Q

Hydroxide neutralization

A

Acid alkali neutralization that neutralizes the alkaline residues left in hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers pH of hair and scalp

54
Q

What does acid balanced shampoo or normalizing lotion do?

A

Neutralizes any leftover hydroxide ions to pH of hair and scalp

55
Q

In a virgin relaxer application where does application of product start?

A

1/4 in-1/2 away from scalp and ends

56
Q

To avoid over processing and scalp irritation with chemical relaxing do NOT

A

Apply relaxer to hair closest to scalp until last few min of processing

57
Q

Keratin bond straightening treatments contain silicone polymers and formalin that release formaldehyde gas when heated to Hugh temps

True or false

A

True

58
Q

Soft curl permanents use thio and what??

A

ATG and oxidation neutralizers (just as thio perms do)

59
Q

Low ph relaxers

A

Do not completely straighten extremely curly hair

Intended for use on color treated, damaged, or fine hair

60
Q

Reduction

A

Breaks disulfide bonds

61
Q

Oxidation

A

Reforms sulfide bonds

62
Q

Metallic salts

A

NOT compatible with perm. Solution (thio or hydroxide relaxers)

63
Q

Neutralizer

A

Usually hydrogen peroxide

64
Q

Mild strength chemical relaxers

A

for fine, color treated hair, damaged

Also used for texturizing hair

65
Q

Regular strength relaxers

A

For normal hair texture with medium natural curl
Most common used
Produces smooth straight hair

66
Q

Super strength relaxers

A

Used for max. Straightening on coarse, extreme curly, or resistant hair

67
Q

Periodic strand texting during relaxer application

A

Smooth and gently press strand to scalp and remove product. If strand remains smooth with no visible curl pattern, it’s sufficiently relaxed

68
Q

Hydroxide neutralization

A

Acid alkali neutralization that neutralizes alkaline residue left in hair by a hydroxide relaxer
Lowers pH of hair and scalp
Does not involve oxidation or rebuilding of disulfide bonds
PH of hydroxide relaxers is so hi that acid based shampoo or normalizing lotion neutralizes any remaining hydroxide ions

69
Q

Hydroxide relaxer retouch

A

Used in texturizing
Hydroxide relaxer reduces curl pattern
Mild strength relaxer: 1/4 in-1/2 in away from scalp and away from ends
Comb product though
For retouch apply base cream to previously relaxed hair to prevent overlap

70
Q

Neutralizing shampoo

A

Use after hair relaxing after you rinse out the relaxer
It’s acidic to normalize pH
Pink- relaxing residue remains
White- relaxer rinsed out

71
Q

After relaxer service always:

A

Apply conditioner and comb through with wide tooth comb

72
Q

Keratin based straightening treatments

A

Semipermanent
They Do not break bonds, they fix keratin in one place in a semipermanent manner
Formaldehyde released when formalin is heated to create chemical link
Lasts 3-5 months
NOT for extremely curly hair
Keep hair down for 72 hours

73
Q

Soft curl permanent

A
Thio based chemical service 
Curly-->Looser larger curls 
Do not apply hydroxide relaxer if hair has been treated with thio relaxer 
Do not apply thio relaxer if hair has been treated with hydroxide relaxer 
Don't shampoo beforehand 
No metallic dye in hair 
No damaged hair 
Dry scalp and hair (no sweat)
Protective base cream
Neutralizing shampoo
74
Q

A correct perm wave service only alters

A

Side bonds

75
Q

Porosity

A

Ability o absorb moisture

76
Q

Texture

A

Coarseness/fineness

Skinny (not thin )

77
Q

Elasticity

A

Ability to stretch

78
Q

Density

A

of hair per sq inch

79
Q

Which is more important, porosity or texture?

A

Porosity

80
Q

Curl paTtern for straight hair

A

Round follicle

81
Q

Curl pattern for curly hair

A

Elliptical follicle (flat)

82
Q

Curl pattern on wavy hair

A

Oval follicle

83
Q

Curl pattern on overly curly hair

A

Elliptical follicle

84
Q

Curl reforming

A

Aka Jerry curls

First relax hair then reperm into larger curls

85
Q

Chemical texture services include:

A

Permanent waving
Chemical relaxing
Curl reforming (soft curl permanent)