Chemical texture service Flashcards
Chemical texture services are:
hair services that cause a chemical change within the hair is natural weight and curl pattern they include permanent waving relaxing and curl reforming soft curl permanents.
Cuticle
Tough exterior layer of the hair. 2. It surrounds the inner layer and protects the hair from damage. 
Cortex
The middle layer of the hair. 2. The cortex is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair
Medulla
The innermost layer of the hair. often call the pith or core of the hair
pH
Is the abbreviation of a potential hydrogen
The symbol pH represents:
Quantities of hydrogen ions
The pH scale has a range from
0 to 14
A pH of 7 is
Neutral
A pH below 7 is
Acidic
A pH above 7 is
Alkaline
The natural pH of hair is between
4.5 and 5.5
Chemical solution raise the pH of the hair to an
Alkaline state
Coarse,resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle layer requires a
Highly alkaline chemical solution
Porous damage or chemically treated hair requires a
Less alkaline solution
Amino acids
Are compounds made up of carbon oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur
Peptide bonds also known as end bonds are
Chemical bond that joins amino acids together into End to end in long chains to form a polypeptide chain
Polypeptide chains are
Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
Keratin proteins are
Long coiled polypeptide chain
Side bonds are
Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together
Disulfide Bonds are
Strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.
Although there are fewer disulfide bonds the hydrogen or salt bonds, they are the
Strongest of all three Side bonds accounting for about 1/3 of the hairs overall strength
Disulfide bonds are not affected by
Water
Salt bonds
Are relatedly weak physical side bones that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electric charge
Salt bonds are
Easily broken by changes in pH and they reform when the pH returns to normal levels are. Salt bonds are broken by change in the pH level
Hydrogen bonds are
Weak physical side bonds there are also the result of an attraction between the opposite electrical charge. They are easily broken by water (wet settings) or heat (thermal styling).
Permanent waving is
A two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on a perm rod the hair than undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer
If chemical changes are involved you should
Perform an elasticity test before a perm in the hair
When performing a permanent waving service
The size of the rod determines the size of the curl
Alkaline permanent waving solutions
Softens and swells the hair and they open the cuticle permitting the solution to penetrate into the cortex
Illustrates hair saturated with alkali permanent waving solution (pH 9.4) for
Five minutes
The waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction
Reduction
A reduction reaction involves either the addition of
Hydrogen or the removal of oxygen
All permanent wave solution contains a reducing agent the reducing agent commonly referred to as
Thio is used in permanent waving solutions. It contains thiol
Thioglycolic acid
A colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solution.
The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by
The concentration of thio
Stronger perms have a higher concentration of bio which means that more
Disulfide bonds are broken compared to weaker perms
The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produce a new chemical name
Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
Ammonium thioglycolate
Is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
The degrees of alkalinity (pH) is a second factor in the overall strength of the
Waving solution
Coarse hair with a strong resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by
Stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution
Porous hair, or hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily penetrated and could be damaged by
Highly alkaline permanent waving solution
Alkali waves or cold waves were developed in 1941. they have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 
Ammonium thioglycolate ATG is the reducing agent, and it processes at room temperature without the addition of heat
Acid waves: Glyceryl mono thioglycolate
Is the Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotion. It has a low pH and is the primary reducing agent in most acid waves.
All acid waves have three separate components:
Permanent waving solution,activator, and neutralizer
The activator tube contains GMTG which must be added to the permanent waving solution before applying to the hair
The first true acid waves were introduced in the early 1970s
True Acid waves have a pH between
4.5 and 7.0 and requires heat to process the process more slowly the alkali ways and they do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkali waves
Although a pH of 7.0 is neutral on the pH scale a pH of 5.0 is neutral for hair
A pH of 7.0 is 100 times more alkaline then a pH of hair 5.0
Acid balanced waves: in order to permit processing at room temperature. Most of the acid waves found in today’s salon has a pH between 7.8 and 8.2. modern acid waves which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH because of their high pH they process at room temperature do not require the added heat of a hairdryer process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves
Exothermic wave
An exothermic Chemical reaction produces heat. Exothermic waves create an exothermic chemical Reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds of the processing. The permanent waving solution contains thio just as in coal waving. The activator contains oxidizing agent usually hydrogen peroxide that must be added to the permanent waving solution immediately before use. mixing an oxidizer with the Permanent waving solution causes a rapid release of heat and an increase in the temperature of the solution. the increase temperature increases the rate of a chemical reaction which shortens the processing time
Endothermic waves
Is one that absorbs heat from its surroundings. Endothermic waves Are activated by an outside heat source usually a conventional hood type hairdryer. Requires the added heat of a hairdryer
Ammonia free ways
Are perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia so there is very little older associated with this use
This free waves
can be just as damaging as thio
Low pH waves
perms that you sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate 
Permanent wave processing
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair within the first 5 to 10 minutes. if you find that your client hair has been over process it probably happened within the first 5 to 10 minutes of the service in a weaker permanent waving solution should have been use if the hair is not significantly process about after 10 minutes, it may be required require a re-application of waving solution
Overprocessed hair
if too many disobey bonds are broken the hair may not hold that desire curl we care equals a week curl over process here usually has a weaker pattern or may appear to be absolutely straight since the hair at the scalp is usually stronger than the hair at the end is overprocessed hair is usually curlier at the scalp and straighter at the end. if the hair is overprocessed, further processing will make it straighter and cause further damage including breakage
Underprocessed hair
Under-processed hair is the exact opposite of over process hair. if two few disulfide bonds are broken, the hair will not be significantly softened and will not hold the desired curl. underprocessed hair usually has a very weak curl but it may also be straight since the hair at the scab is usually stronger than at the end is under process here is usually straight or at the scalp and curlier at the end if the hair is under process for the processing will make it curlier
Permanent waving Thio neutralization
This neutralization stops the action of the waving solution and rebuild the hair into its new curly form neutralization performs to important functions
• Any waving solution that remains in the hair is deactivated (neutralized)
• Disulfide bonds that were broken by the wave and solutions are rebuilt
Thio neutralization stage one
The first function of permanent waving thio neutralization is the deactivation or naturalization of any waving salute lotion that remains in the hair at the processing and rinsing the chemical reaction involved is called oxidation giving that water H2O pH is between six and seven Rinsing begins the neutralizing process. proper rinsing and blotting are importing 
Hey successful person requires knowledge time and patience and always Rasta hair with warm water never hot always use a gentle stream of water never a strong blast of water never apply pressure to the rods while rinsing out the solution always begin rinsing at the area where you first apply the perm solution with the most fragile area typically at the temple in hair line Always check the nape area to ensure that you are thoroughly rest rinsing the bottom rise always rest for the time recommended by the manufacturers always smell the hair after the recommended time has elapsed if it’s still smell like perm solution continue raising the till the older is gone always gently blot the hair with a dry towel never firmly or aggressively block the hair as it could disrupt the curl blocking powdery and alter the final way or curl always check for excess moisture especially at the nape of the neck where water tends to accumulate pull of gravity prior to neutralizing the hair always adjust any rods that have become loose or have to drift out of a Ledgement prior to applying the neutralizer
Thio neutralization stage two
Permanent waving solution brakes does Sophie Bonds by adding hydrogen thio neutralization reveals the does Sophie bars by removing the hydrogen that was added by the permanent waving solution the hydrogen atoms are strongly attracted to the oxygen in the neutralization and release their bonds with the south of the atom enjoys with the oxygen is actually each oxygen atom joins with two hydrogen atoms to reveal want to self a bar for me a water molecule the what is remote in the final rinse side bonds are then reform into their new shape
Permanent waving procedures: Preliminary test curls
Preliminary test curls help you determine how your client hair will react to a perm it is a visible to do pre-Mallary test curls to access what the final curl pattern will look like this is especially important if the hair appears damage dehydrated color treated or if there is any uncertainties about the results prima Larry Teske is provide the following information and answer the following question: correct processing time for the best curl develop result you can expect from the type of perm solution select the curl results for the right size and wrapping technique you are planning to use how much color will be removed from the process if the client has color treated hair will the integrity of the hair be come promised did the hair break is it dry frizzy is the client satisfied with the shape and hold of the curl
Concave Rod
Are the most common type of perm rods they have a smaller diameter in the center they increased to a large diameter on the ends. concave rods produce a tighter curl in the center and a loose curls on either side of the strand
Straight rods
Are equal in diameter along their entire length or curl area this produced a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand
South bender rods
Are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. these soft foam rods have a flexible wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape
Loop rods
Also know is circle rods is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod after the hair is wrapped the right is secured by a fastening the end together to form a loop
End paper: double flat wrap is
A perm wrap and which one and paper is placed under in another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped
Single flat wrap
Is similar to the double flat wrap but usually only one in paper placed over the top of the strand of hair
Bookend wrap
Use one and paper fold and have over the hair in like an envelope
Base sections are
Sub sections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping one rod is normally placed on each base section the size of Eastbay section is usually the length and width of the rod being used
Bass placement
Refers to the position of the ride in relations to its base section: Base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is rat rods can be wrapped on base half off base or off base
On-base placement
The hair is wrapped 45-degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section,and the rod is positioned on its base
Half off base placement
The hair is wrapped in an angle of 90° or perpendicular to its base section in the right is positioned half off its base half off base placement minimize stress and tension on the hair
Off-base placement
Refers to wrapping the hair at 45° below the center of the base section so that the ride is positioned completely off its base off vase placement creates the less amount of value may result in a curl pattern that begins furthest away from the scalp
