Chemical Hair Relaxing Flashcards
Name the two general types of hair relaxers.
A. Ammonium thioglycolate
B. Sodium hydroxide
List two other names for chemical hair processing?
A.hair relaxing
B.hair straightening
What is the two main differences between the two types of relaxers?
Thio requires shampooing before & sodium hydroxide you do NOT shampoo before.
What is the pH of sodium hydroxide hair relaxer?
10-14pH
What is the protective cream for the scalp and previously straightened hair?
Petroleum cream (not jelly)
List the two types of sodium hydroxide hair straightener.
A. Base ( protective cream on scalp)
B. No base ( protective cream around the perimeter of scalp)
What takes place during the processing phase of hair straightening.
When chemical relaxer is applied the hair begins to soften, the chemical penetrates the hair to loosen and relax its natural curl
Which of the two hair straighteners used professionally is less drastic?
Ammonium thioglycolate
List the two other names for the neutralizer.
A. Stabilizer
B. Fixative
What two functions does the neutralizer perform during the hair straightening process?
Reforms the cystine (sulfur) cross bonds & re hardens the hair.
What step must be taken before relaxing hair that has been damaged by heat appliances or other chemicals?
A series of reconditioning treatments
How is the strength of the relaxer used determined?
Relaxer test
A chemical hair straightener should never be done on hair that has been treated with what?
Lighteners or metallic dyes
List four conditions that could show up during the scalp exam that would prevent any type of chemical hair relaxer from being used.
Eruptions, scratches, contagious condition, or abrasions
List four tests that must be done before starting a hair straightening.
A. Scalp exam
B. Finger test (porosity)
C. Pull test (elasticity)
D. Relaxer test
List two things that should not be done immediately prior to a hair straightening.
Shampooing (before sodium hydroxide relaxer) or thermal appliance treatments
What type of conditioner is used before relaxing over-porous hair or slightly damaged hair.
Protein filler
Which bonds in the cortex layer of the hair must be broken in order to chemically relax overly curly or wavy hair.
Cystine / disulfide / sulfur bonds
How is the hair held in the straight position during the processing and neutralizing phases of chemical hair processing?
Heavy cream
How is the hair relaxer applied to the hair shaft?
It’s laid upon the hair w/ the back of the comb
Where should you start applying the chemical hair relaxer?
On the shaft
List four areas that the hair relaxer must not come in contact with as its being applied.
Ears Scalp Skin Hair ends (1/2" from ends and scalp)
What area of the hair shaft does not receive the relaxer when it is first being applied?
The ends
Which two areas is the hair relaxer applied to last?
The ends
Front hair line
What type of comb is used for spreading out the hair relaxer?
Wide tooth comb
What temp of water must be used for rinsing out the hair relaxer?
Warm / tepid, not hot or cold
While rinsing the relaxer from the scalp, the water must be directed away from what?
The scalp
What type of shampoo is recommended after a hair relaxer?
Cream
What position should the hair be kept in while it is being neutralized?
Straight position
When may a colored rinse be applied?
Following the application of a stabilizer or shampoo
Where should the hair relaxer be applied during a retouch?
To the new growth only
What type of shampoo is used before relaxing the hair with a thio type hair relaxer?
A neutral shampoo or acid balance
List the three steps used to rinse out a thio type hair relaxer.
A. Rinse about 50% of the relaxer with warm water
B. Comb the hair smooth and straight for about 5 min w/ remaining relaxer
C. Rinse remaining relaxer thoroughly from hair, keeping it straight and smooth
What is the next step after rinsing out a thio type of hair relaxer?
Apply a stabilizer or neutralizer fixative
What is the main consideration when doing a hair relaxer for a chemical blowout?
Do not over relax the hair
Process it for only 40% of the time
When doing a chemical hair blowout, when is the best time to cut the hair?
Once the hair is dried
What is the active ingredient in a soft curl permanent?
Ammonium thioglycolate
List five chemical services that would prevent you from using a soft curl permanent wave.
Bleached Tinted Sodium hydroxide Colored w metallic dye Or compound henna
What should you do if any chemicals should run into the eyes?
Flush eyes with water and refer client to the doctor
A soft curl permanent wave requires doing what two procedures
A. Relaxer (straightener)
B. Permanent wave
What should be applied to the hair daily to maintain a soft curl permanent wave?
Activator or conditioner
What should be used to arrange the hair when it is wet after a soft curl permanent wave?
Lifting pick
What type of comb should not be used immediately before or after a relaxing treatment?
Brush or fine tooth comb
What type of chemical cross bond is formed by the neutralizer from a sodium hydroxide hair straightener?
Lanthionine bond
Which type of hair relaxer should be postponed if the hair has been recently shampooed?
Sodium hydroxide
The two chemicals employed in chemical hair straightening are the chemical hair processor and the what
Stabilizer
If the water applied to chemically straightened hair is too hot, it could cause the hair to what
Revert
To keep the hair from tangling after chemical processing, it should be what..
Restructured
When giving a chemical blow out, the Afro-comb is used to comb the hair
Upwards and slightly forward
The chemical processor is spread with the what
Back of the comb
Ammonium thioglycolate relaxers have a pH range of
9.2-9.6
Sodium hydroxide straighteners have a pH range of what
10-14
Most thio type neutralizers have a pH range of
5.0-6.0
Before starting a hair straightening treatment always consult with the client to find out what
What products they have used on their hair
Which bonds of the hair must be broken and reformed in order to permanently relax the hair
Cystine/ sulphur
Overlapping of the relaxer products can cause what
Hair breakage
