Chapter 5

Question 1

woven fabric

Answer 1

made by interlacing two sets if yarns at right angles to each other.

Question 2

warp yarn

Answer 2

length wise yarns, first on loom

Question 3

filling/weft yarns

Answer 3

widthwise yarns

Question 4

selvages

Answer 4

finished edge

Question 5

on grain

Answer 5

cut parallel to warp

Question 6

off grain

Answer 6

not parallel to any. can be cut off grain

Question 7

bias

Answer 7

not parallel to any

Question 8

warp beam

Answer 8

large roller on which all the warp yarns to be used for the fabric are wound together

Question 9

harness

Answer 9

hold many thin vertical wires

Question 10

heddles

Answer 10

thin vertical wires with a hole in the middle

Question 11

shed

Answer 11

harness is raised with others left in the down position a V like opening is formed

Question 12

Shuttle

Answer 12

wooden device with a bobbin placed inside with filling yarn around it

Question 13

dobby device

Answer 13

uses computer controlled mechanisms to determine which harnesses are raised or lowered. Geometric

Question 14

jacquard attachment

Answer 14

has no harnesses, uses a computer tape to control the rope yarns. anything is possible. detailed designs, organic designs.

Question 15

double fabric

Answer 15

two warp beams goes faster

Question 16

face

Answer 16

has better appearance and forms outside of garment

Question 17

back

Answer 17

can be used as outside of garment at times

Question 18

top and bottom

Answer 18

weave or finish can cause a difference. plies and colors vary, fabric has a direction

Question 19

floats

Answer 19

when warp or weft yarns dont interlace with the next adjacent yarn but passes over 2 or more adjacent yarns

Question 20

plain weaves

Answer 20

simplest and most used weave. can be reversible, only require 2 harnesses to weave the body

Question 21

ribbed & cord weave

Answer 21

produced because the filling yarns are thicker than the warp yarns

Question 22

basket weave

Answer 22

major plain weave variation, having 2 or more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups of 2 or more filling yarns interlace as 1 yarn

Question 23

twill weaves

Answer 23

produce diagonal lines, simplest is 2/1 or 1/2 most made on fewer than 6 harnesses either warp, face, or balanced, every warp yarn interlaces in same order

Question 24

chevron

Answer 24

broken twill design, produces stripes in a zig zag shape

Question 25

herringbone

Answer 25

broken twill, vertical stripes of both right and left hand resemble the back bone of a herring

Question 26

satin weaves

Answer 26

only one interlacing for each warp yarn and one for each filling yarn no 2 interlacings ever touch or are adjacent. have long floats

Question 27

sateen

Answer 27

durable cotton fabric usually with a filling face satin weave

Question 28

crepe back satin

Answer 28

fine warp yarns with little to no twist. face is almost entirely warp yarns while back is filling

Question 29

dobby patterns

Answer 29

contains simple geometric forms made on a loom

Question 30

jacquard patterns

Answer 30

contains detailed and intricate motifs and exceed the capacity of harness looms.

Question 31

uncut pile weaves

Answer 31

consists of ground warp and filling yarns

Question 32

terry cloth

Answer 32

direction of warp because the extra yarn that forms the pile is lengthwise

Question 33

warp cut pile weaves

Answer 33

have an extra set of filling yarns

Question 34

velvet

Answer 34

sensitive to crushing

Question 35

filling cut pile weaves

Answer 35

have an extra set of filling yarn

Question 36

corduroy

Answer 36

floats are placed lengthwise

Question 37

velveteen

Answer 37

floats are placed randomly

Question 38

double cloth

Answer 38

two fabrics held together by a separate set of yarns

Question 39

leno weave

Answer 39

warp yarns twist back and forth in pairs around each pick firmly holding the filling yarn in a figure 8 loops

Question 40

fiber content

Answer 40

based on quality and generic type

Question 41

yarn type

Answer 41

based on fiber content and type of yarn

Question 42

construction of weave

Answer 42

weave used affects cost