chapter 20: chemical texture services Flashcards
the term ph is an abbreviation for _____, and symbolizes the quantity of _____, ions in solution
hydrogen; hydrogen
measure the acidity and alkalinity of a substance
pH scale
chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair to alkaline in order to
soften and swell the shaft
coarse, resistant hair with strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is
highly alkaline
easily broken by changes in the pH
salt bonds
hydrogen bonds easily broken by water or heat, but form as the hair is
dried
2 step process in which hair is wrapped then chemically changed with a solution and neutralizer
permanent waxing
what determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process
size of the rod
once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction
reduction
what are the most common reducing agents used in permanent waving
thioglycolate acids
what is the second factor in the overall strength of the waving solution
degree of alkalinity
what is the most active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
glycerly monothioglycolate
permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH are what kind of waves
acid-balanced
exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up
processing
perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia for less odor is
ammonia-free
it is important for stylists to remember that ammonia free does not necessarily mean
damage free
the process that stops the perm and rebuilds the hair to its new form is
thio neutralization
what is the most common neutralizer
hydrogen peroxide
also known as circle rods
with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod
loop rods
one perm end paper is placed under and another placed over the strand of hair is which wrap
double
one end paper folded in half over the hair like an envelope is which wrap technique
bookend
caution should be used with on base rod placement to avoid additional
stress and tension on hair
what kind of placement minimizes stress and tension on the hair
half-off base
what is another name for the double rod wrap technique
piggy back wrap
very effective technique for blending perm rods with opposite base directions
weave technique
chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows signs of
abrasions
what is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
hydrogen ion
sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called
lye relaxers
relaxers that contain two components and are mixed immediately are
guanidine hydroxide
how do keratin straightening treatments work
fixing the keratin in place