Chapter 20- Chemical Texture Services Flashcards

1
Q

Glycerol monothioglycolate

A

Is the main ingredient in the true acid and acid-balanced waving lotion

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2
Q

Ammonium thioglycolate

A

Is the main ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms

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3
Q

The alkalinity of the perm chosen should do what?

A

Should correspond to the resistance,strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer

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4
Q

Porous hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily what?

A

Is easily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution.

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5
Q

Reduction

A

The chemical action of waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction

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6
Q

What is the action of permanent waving solution?

A

The action is to soften and expand the hair

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7
Q

When do disulfide bonds form?

A

When the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together

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8
Q

What are keratin proteins made up of?

A

Are made of long chains of amino acids linked together end to end like beads

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9
Q

Polypeptide chains

A

Are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds

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10
Q

Peptide bonds

A

Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains

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11
Q

Acid-balanced waves

A

Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls that true acid waves

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12
Q

Exothermic perm

A

Activated by heat created chemically within the product

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13
Q

Endothermic

A

A perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood dryer

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14
Q

Fine hair

A

Easier to process,more fragile, and more susceptible to damage during the perming process

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15
Q

Coarse hair

A

Usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant and course

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16
Q

The amount of processing time should be determined by?

A

The strength of the solution, not necessarily the perms processing time.

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17
Q

In permanent waving where does most of the processing take place? Within what time?

A

The processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first 5-10 minutes

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18
Q

A properly processed permanent wave should what?

A

Should break and rebuild approximately 50% of the hair’s dulsifide bonds

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19
Q

If too many disulfide bonds are broken in the perming process what will happen?

A

The hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl

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20
Q

If hair is under processed

A

Further processing will make it curlier

21
Q

Neutralization

A

Rebuilds disulfide bonds that were broken by the waving solution

22
Q

What happens if the hair is not rinsed properly?

A

The hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer can react with waving solution and cause the hair color to lighten

23
Q

Course hair with strong, resistant cuticle layer needs what?

A

Needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution

24
Q

After applying neutralizer what do you do?

A

Always rinse the perm solution from the hair for the last 5 minuted

25
Q

What do some manufacturers recommend?

A

The application of a pre-neutralizing conditioner after blotting and before application of neutralizer

26
Q

Acidic type of liquid protein conditioner

A

Can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for like 5 minutes or more prior to neutralization of hair is damaged

27
Q

Thio
neutralization

A

Rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the hydrogen that is added by the permanent waving solution

28
Q

Preliminary test curl

A

Is effective for determining correct processing time; expected results ; rod and wrap choice; how color will be affected; and if the hair will break,dry, or frizz

29
Q

Concave
rods

A

Have a small diameter in the center area and gradually increase to their largest diameter at the ends

30
Q

End papers or end wraps

A

Are thin, absorbent paper used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rod

31
Q

The double flat wrap

A

Is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed over and under the strand of the hair being wrapped

32
Q

The single flat wrap

A

Is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed over the strand of the hair being wrapped

33
Q

Book end wrap

A

When one end paper us folded in half over the hair

34
Q

Base sections

A

All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels that are further divided into sub sections

35
Q

Base placement

A

Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.

36
Q

On-base placement

A

The hair is wrapped 45-degees beyond perpendicular to its base sections, and the rod is positioned on its base

37
Q

Half off-base placement

A

The hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base

38
Q

Off-base

A

The hair is wrapped 45-degrees below the center of the base section, so that the rod is positioned completely off its base

39
Q

The spiral wrap

A

Is wrapped at a angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like stripes on a candy cane

40
Q

Double rod wrap

A

A method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair

41
Q

Straight perm

A

The basic perm

42
Q

What wrap radiates throughout the panels?

A

The basic wrap and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

43
Q

What does bricklay wrap prevent?

A

Used to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair

44
Q

The weave technique wrap

A

Uses zigzag patings to divide base area

45
Q

Partial perm

A

Perming only a section of a whole head

46
Q

In order to make a smooth transition from the rolled section of the head to an unrolled section what do you use?

A

Use a larger rod for the last rod next to the unrolled section when giving a partial perm

47
Q

What are many male clients looking for?

A

They are looking for adding texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide

48
Q

What does metallic salts leave?

A

Leaves a coating on the hair that may cause sever discoloration, or hair breakage

49
Q

What do you do when preforming a procedure for a preliminary test curl?

A

Wrap one rod in each different area of the head, including the top. The sife,, and the nape