Chapter 20- Chemical Texture Services Flashcards
Glycerol monothioglycolate
Is the main ingredient in the true acid and acid-balanced waving lotion
Ammonium thioglycolate
Is the main ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms
The alkalinity of the perm chosen should do what?
Should correspond to the resistance,strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer
Porous hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily what?
Is easily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution.
Reduction
The chemical action of waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction
What is the action of permanent waving solution?
The action is to soften and expand the hair
When do disulfide bonds form?
When the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together
What are keratin proteins made up of?
Are made of long chains of amino acids linked together end to end like beads
Polypeptide chains
Are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
Peptide bonds
Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains
Acid-balanced waves
Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls that true acid waves
Exothermic perm
Activated by heat created chemically within the product
Endothermic
A perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood dryer
Fine hair
Easier to process,more fragile, and more susceptible to damage during the perming process
Coarse hair
Usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant and course
The amount of processing time should be determined by?
The strength of the solution, not necessarily the perms processing time.
In permanent waving where does most of the processing take place? Within what time?
The processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first 5-10 minutes
A properly processed permanent wave should what?
Should break and rebuild approximately 50% of the hair’s dulsifide bonds
If too many disulfide bonds are broken in the perming process what will happen?
The hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl