Chapter 20- Chemical Texture Services Flashcards
Glycerol monothioglycolate
Is the main ingredient in the true acid and acid-balanced waving lotion
Ammonium thioglycolate
Is the main ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms
The alkalinity of the perm chosen should do what?
Should correspond to the resistance,strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer
Porous hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily what?
Is easily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution.
Reduction
The chemical action of waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction
What is the action of permanent waving solution?
The action is to soften and expand the hair
When do disulfide bonds form?
When the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together
What are keratin proteins made up of?
Are made of long chains of amino acids linked together end to end like beads
Polypeptide chains
Are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
Peptide bonds
Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains
Acid-balanced waves
Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls that true acid waves
Exothermic perm
Activated by heat created chemically within the product
Endothermic
A perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood dryer
Fine hair
Easier to process,more fragile, and more susceptible to damage during the perming process
Coarse hair
Usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant and course
The amount of processing time should be determined by?
The strength of the solution, not necessarily the perms processing time.
In permanent waving where does most of the processing take place? Within what time?
The processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first 5-10 minutes
A properly processed permanent wave should what?
Should break and rebuild approximately 50% of the hair’s dulsifide bonds
If too many disulfide bonds are broken in the perming process what will happen?
The hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl
If hair is under processed
Further processing will make it curlier
Neutralization
Rebuilds disulfide bonds that were broken by the waving solution
What happens if the hair is not rinsed properly?
The hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer can react with waving solution and cause the hair color to lighten
Course hair with strong, resistant cuticle layer needs what?
Needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution
After applying neutralizer what do you do?
Always rinse the perm solution from the hair for the last 5 minuted
What do some manufacturers recommend?
The application of a pre-neutralizing conditioner after blotting and before application of neutralizer
Acidic type of liquid protein conditioner
Can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for like 5 minutes or more prior to neutralization of hair is damaged
Thio
neutralization
Rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the hydrogen that is added by the permanent waving solution
Preliminary test curl
Is effective for determining correct processing time; expected results ; rod and wrap choice; how color will be affected; and if the hair will break,dry, or frizz
Concave
rods
Have a small diameter in the center area and gradually increase to their largest diameter at the ends
End papers or end wraps
Are thin, absorbent paper used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rod
The double flat wrap
Is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed over and under the strand of the hair being wrapped
The single flat wrap
Is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed over the strand of the hair being wrapped
Book end wrap
When one end paper us folded in half over the hair
Base sections
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels that are further divided into sub sections
Base placement
Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
On-base placement
The hair is wrapped 45-degees beyond perpendicular to its base sections, and the rod is positioned on its base
Half off-base placement
The hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base
Off-base
The hair is wrapped 45-degrees below the center of the base section, so that the rod is positioned completely off its base
The spiral wrap
Is wrapped at a angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like stripes on a candy cane
Double rod wrap
A method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair
Straight perm
The basic perm
What wrap radiates throughout the panels?
The basic wrap and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
What does bricklay wrap prevent?
Used to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair
The weave technique wrap
Uses zigzag patings to divide base area
Partial perm
Perming only a section of a whole head
In order to make a smooth transition from the rolled section of the head to an unrolled section what do you use?
Use a larger rod for the last rod next to the unrolled section when giving a partial perm
What are many male clients looking for?
They are looking for adding texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide
What does metallic salts leave?
Leaves a coating on the hair that may cause sever discoloration, or hair breakage
What do you do when preforming a procedure for a preliminary test curl?
Wrap one rod in each different area of the head, including the top. The sife,, and the nape
