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ESS > Chapter 15 > Flashcards

Chapter 15 Flashcards

0
Q

What is a gyre

A

Circular surface current

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1
Q

What causes surface currents

A

Wind

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2
Q

Which way do gyres rotate

A

Circular

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3
Q

How many currents exist within each gyre

A

Four

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4
Q

How many gyres are there And where

A

Five north Pacific South Pacific North Atlantic South Atlantic Indian Ocean

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5
Q

What is the Sargasso Sea

A

Place inside the Atlantic gyre

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6
Q

How long does it take for each current to cycle

A

Six years

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7
Q

Where is the Gulfstream

A

Along the east coast of the US

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8
Q

How do currents transfer heat and where is the heat coming from

A

Convection currents

Equator

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9
Q

How does the current affect nearby land

A

Moving away from the equator makes it warmer

Moving away from the poles makes it colder

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10
Q

How do currents affect Earth’s heat budget

A

Try to make ocean temperature equilibrium Warmwater north Coldwater away from poles

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11
Q

What is upwelling

A

When pushes water away from the coast leaving a void to be filled with cold nutrient rich water from below

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12
Q

How does upwelling Occur

A

Wind blows water away from the coast

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13
Q

What kind of movement is upwelling and what causes it

A

Vertical Movement

Wind blowing surface water away from the coast leaving a void to be filled with cold nutrient rich water

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14
Q

Why is upwelling significant to organisms

A

Cold Nutrient rich water = Happy plankton = Happy fish

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15
Q

What is another name for the global ocean conveyor belt

A

Thermohaline circulation

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16
Q

What does thermohaline circulation accomplish

A

Equals out world salt water because of density differences

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17
Q

What is the composition of beach material depend on

A

Whatever is locally abundant

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18
Q

What travels in a wave

A

Energy

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19
Q

What are the characteristics of a wave

A

Trough crest wave period Wave height wavelength fetch whitecaps swells

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20
Q

What is the trough and crest of a wave

A 
Trough = Bottom of the wave
Crest = top of the wave
21
Q

What is wave period And fetch

A

Wave period = Time it takes one wavelength to pass a fixed position
Fetch = Distance wind has traveled over open water

22
Q

What is wave height and wavelength

A

Wave height = Crest to trough

Wavelength = Crest to crest

23
Q

What are swells and whitecaps

A 
Whitecaps = breakers when waves of water get to steep
Swells = Any wave that has traveled out of its area of origin
24
Q

What three factors affect height length and period

A

Wind speed
length of time Wind has blown
Fetch

25
Q

How does water moving a wave

A

Circular orbital

26
Q

What happens to the wavelength in the surf zone

A

It slows down

27
Q

What happens when a wave becomes too high

A

It breaks and continues towards shore

28
Q

What is Surf

A

Turbulent water created by breaking waves

29
Q

What is swash and backwash

A 
Swash = Turbulent sheet of water from collapsing breakers moving in a diagonal motion
Backwash = Following theswash water flows straight back towards the surf zone
30
Q

What happens because of wave refraction

A

Straighten an irregular shoreline

31
Q

What is a dominant feature of high-energy waves

A

Wave cut cliff - vertical wall of exposed rock

32
Q

What is Longshore transport

A

Zigzag motion that move sand down the beach

33
Q

What are rip currents

A

Concentrated movements of water that flows opposite direction of breaking waves

34
Q

Name erosional features

A

Wave cut cliff
Wave cut platform
Sea stack
Sea arch

35
Q

What is a wave cut cliff and a wave cut platform

A

Wave cut cliff = Steep cliff along a shoreline

Wave cut platform = Flat almost horizontal surface

36
Q

Draw a sea stack and a sea arch

A

http://www.tulane.edu/~sanelson/images/seastack.gif

37
Q

Name depositional features

A 
Spit
baymouth bar 
Tombolo 
Beach
 barrier island
38
Q

Draw a spit and baymouth bar

A

Spit - http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/56/Provincetown_Spit_Cape_Cod.jpg
Baymouth Bar - http://classconnection.s3.amazonaws.com/747/flashcards/1184747/jpg/baymouthbar011331275061103.jpg

39
Q

What is hard stabilization

A

Structures built to protect the coast from erosion or to prevent the movement of sand along the beach

40
Q

What are groins

A

A series or a wall of rocks to prevent longshore drift from eroding the beach

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_7QjkBSLD4nQ/SOXR5JK81yI/AAAAAAAAAMM/slNC-br2v4k/s400/EE+SeaWall+Sth+May+1987-500k.jpg

41
Q

What are breakwaters

A

Artificial barriers for storm waves to strike

http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/j0yce/j0yce1101/j0yce110100284/8629193-breakwater-wall-in-bar-harbor-maine-in-the-united-states-with-a-small-island-at-the-far-end.jpg

42
Q

What are seawalls

A

On shore wall parallel to the shore to protect it from incoming waves

http://www.texasescapes.com/TexasGulfCoastTowns/GalvestonTexas/GalvestonTexasEndOfSeawall1908TXOPtb.jpg

43
Q

What is the problem with hard stabilization structures

A

They don’t always work

44
Q

What is beach nourishment

A

Adding large amounts of sand from another location to rebuild a beach

45
Q

What is relocation

A

Relocating storm damaged or at risk buildings to let nature rebuild the beach

46
Q

What causes tides

A

The moon and sun’s gravity and inertia

47
Q

how many tides are there per day

A

2 low and 2 high tides

48
Q

What is a springtide and when does it occur

A

Very high and very low tides

New or full moon

49
Q

What is a neap tide and when does it occur

A

Small tidal range

When the sun and the moon are at right angles to each other/first and third quarter moons

ESS (2 decks)

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