Chapter 10-Waves Flashcards
Progressive waves
- Have a speed and move in a direction
- Surface waves (deep & shallow water waves), big waves (tsunamis, large swells, episodic waves), internal waves (at pycnocline; long periods, large heights, slower speed than surface waves)
- A wave of moving energy in which the wave form moves in one direction along the surface (or junction) of the transmission medium (or media). In transverse waves the displacement of the particles in the medium is perpendicular to the direction the wave is travelling in.
Stokes drift
A small net transport of water in the direction a wind wave is moving
Which way do water molecules in a wave move?
Water molecules in the crest move in the same direction as the wave, but the molecules in the trough move in the opposite direction
Forced wave
A progressive wave under the continuing influence of the forces that formed it. Ex: tides
Crest
Highest part of a progressive wave above average water level
Capillary and gravity waves are named for the __________.
dominant restoring force
The height of a wave depends upon __________.
fetch, wind duration, and wind speed
How far down does the orbital motion of water molecules in a wave reach?
The orbital motion of water molecules in a wave goes down to a depth equal to the wavelength divided by two.
Compared to surface waves, internal waves are _______.
slow, long wavelength, and of great height
The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with __________.
the westerlies
What limits the size of capillary waves?
Surface tension
A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to __________.
1/2 of wavelength
fetch refers to __________.
the distance over which wind blows without interruption
The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the __________.
wave steepness
Stokes drift
The slight forward motion which occurs in the water as a wave passes by
What is wavelength?
The distance measured from trough to trough or crest to crest
The generating force of a gravity wave is ______.
density
Storm surges are associated with __________.
associated with the onshore arrival of a powerful cyclonic storm
Wave height is ___________.
The vertical distance between crest and trough
Diameter of the orbits of water particles in deep water and in shallow water
Deep water: equal to wave height. Shallow water:
Wave speed is equal to __________.
wave speed=wavelength divided by period