Chapter 1: Coasts And Waves Flashcards
Definition of a FETCH
The maximum distance of water over which winds can blow.
What’s SWASH
It transfers the energy up the beach
What’s BACKWASH
Returns energy down the beach
Why do coasts change?
Coasts change because waves destroy and construct material
How are waves created?
Waves are created by the transfer of energy from the wind blowing on the surface of the sea
How are large waves formed?
Large waves are formed when winds are very strong, blow a lot and cross large expenses of water
How do particles of a wave in deep water move?
It moves in a circular orbit
How do water particles within the wave in Shallow water move?
The move in a elliptical orbit
What are DESTRUCTIVE waves?
Destructive waves are formed by powerful winds that have been blowing for a long time. They are made when the wave energy is high and the wave has traveled over a long fetch. They have a stronger backwash than swash and they tend to erode the coastline.They are frequent and create a steep narrow beach
What is a constructive wave?
Constructive waves are less powerful than destructive waves. They deposit material and build up beaches. They have a short fetch and are low in height. They are less frequent than destructive waves. Constructive waves create a gently sloping beach.
What is CORRASION (abrasion)?
Corrasion is a erosional process caused by large waves hurling beach material against a cliff.
What is ATTRITION?
Attrition is when waves cause rocks and boulders to bump and break into each other to make small particles
What is corrosion (solution)?
A erosional process when salts and acids slowly dissolve rock
What is hydraulic pressure?
A erosional process when the force of waves compress air and cracks
What are headlands and bays
Headlands are resistant outcrops of rock sticking out into the sea while bays are indents in the coastline between two headlands
