Ch.6 – Rutherglen Muscat

Question 1

History of Rutherglen Muscat

Answer 1

• Vines planted Rutherglen, Victoria 1850s
• Gold discovered 1858, boom, investment
• By 1890 Rutherglen 25% Australia’s wine, much to UK (not sure what, but some sweet, fortified)
• End 19thC decimated by phylloxera.
• Replanted on resistant rootstocks, but Federation in new century - no cross border tariffs. Rutherford could not compete with S Australia.
• Still produced full-bodied reds and unique fortified styles for which it is famous (capital of Australia’s fortified)

Question 2

Why have Rutherglen Muscats got house styles?

Give 2 examples

Answer 2

• Because family run for several generations
• developed styles based on fruit selection, winemaking, maturation and blending choices
• eg Pfeiffer Wines - light, fresh
• All Saints & Morris - intense and luscious

Question 3

Climate of Rutherglen and how it affects grape growing

Answer 3

• Inland in N-E Victoria 411 ha vineyard
• Continental climate - warm days, cool nights from air flowing down from Victorian Alps
• Grapes left on vines in long dry autumns, often till extra ripe/ shrivel - high sugar, potential alcohol can be 20% - some dried fruit characteristics
• Some picked earlier for fresher Muscat aromas to offer blending options
• Occasionally get rain at harvest - risk of unwanted fungal diseases.

Question 4

When is harvest of Rutherglen Muscat and what are the risks?

Answer 4

• Harvest is usually between Mid-March and May, depending on weather and ripeness desired
• Often pick earlier for fresh, grapey Muscat aromas and later for extra-ripe, more sugar, dried fruit aromas, giving blending options
• Risk of rain - don’t want orange marmalade aromas of botyrtis, because destroys grapey aromas of Muscat that should come through, despite long ageing

Question 5

What is Rutherglen Muscat made from?

Answer 5

• Muscat a Petits Grains Rouges
  
  • red-skinned mutation - Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains
  • known locally as Rutherglen Brown Muscat
  • displays pronounced grapey and floral aromas
• Often very old vines - smaller grapes, higher skin to juice ratio, producing deeper coloured, more concentrated wines
• Old vine fruit often element of house style

Question 6

Training and trellis systems of Rutherglen Muscat

Answer 6

• Key concern is shading to prevent sunburn
• Double cordons with canopy sprawling
  
  • over single foliage wire
  • or more wires and VSP

Question 7

What is the challenge fermenting Rutherglen Muscat?

Answer 7

• Grapes are partly shrivelled, so hard to extract juice through immediate pressing
• So grapes are crushed and ferment briefly on skins to breakdown the pulp and release sugars and flavours.
• Extraction will be aided by
  
  • enzymes added to the juice
  • cap management - punching down, pumping over, rotary fermenters
• Once juice gains 1-2% abv, quickly drained off skins
• Skins pressed and combined with juice before fortified.

Question 8

How is Rutherglen Muscat fortified?

Answer 8

• Spirit of 96% in order to retain Muscat character
  
  1. 96% is neutral
  2. Any lower alcohol would need more volume in the blend, so would dilute Muscat flavours

Question 9

Rutherglen Muscat wine-making after fermentation and before maturation

Answer 9

• Clarification by racking off lees or light filtration
• May adjust pH
• Lightly fine for protein stability - to avoid any deposits that might cause off flavours during maturation

Question 10

What is Rutherglen Muscat matured in?

Answer 10

• Very old oak vessels - no flavour/tannin from new oak
• large round/ oval casks 1300 - 9000l for slow maturation, less oxidation
• smaller barrels 180-500l - greater concentration through evaporation, more oxidation, quicker maturation

Question 11

How is Rutherglen Muscat matured?

Answer 11

• Old oak vessels in warm conditions
• Warehouses with tin roofs - very hot in summer. Near roof hotter, mature quicker
• Some producers also insulate for cooler, more even maturation, retain freshness
• As matures, evaporation concentrates alcohol, sugar and acidity (smaller barrels quicker, warmer, evap quicker)
• Some top up barrels, less ullage, less O2, fresher; others encourage oxidative flavours.

Question 12

What happens to Rutherglen Muscat as it matures?

Answer 12

Wines turn from pale pink/ruby/garnet to deep brown, get sweeter, more acidic and alcoholic, fuller-bodied and syrupy, with more tertiary flavours. Luscious!

Question 13

Blending in Rutherglen Muscat

Answer 13

• Most Rutherglen Muscats are NV, so blending important
  
  • of young and old to gain optimum balance between freshness and complexity
  • to maintain consistent style
• Some use modified sherry solera approach ie removing wine from barrel and replacing it with younger wine
• Less ripe (not unripe) grapes may be stored cooler/ matured less to create fresher, fruitier style
• Different levels of residual sugar can fine-tune sweetness in final wine

Question 14

What are the four classifications of Rutherglen Muscat?

Answer 14

1. Rutherglen Muscat
   
   • av age 3-5 yrs resid sugar 180-240g/l
2. Classic Rutherglen Muscat
   
   • av age 6-10 yrs resid sug 200-280g/l
   • more complex/tertiary/ concentrated
3. Grand Rutherglen Muscat
   
   • av age 11-19 yrs resid sug 270-400g/l
   • blending young & v mature - v complex/ intense
4. Rare Rutherglen Muscat
   
   • min age 20 yrs res sug 270-400g/l
   • the pinnacle, tiny amounts, v old wines in mix

Question 15

Describe the Muscat of Rutherglen Network

Answer 15

• Founded 1995 to promote sales
• Classification of four styles based on richness, complexity and intensity (Rutherglen Muscat, Classic RM, Grand RM, Rare RM)
• Classified by taste not age, though age major factor
• Blends of vintages and age spans grows each level
• RM and Classic are most of volume

Question 16

The flavour profile of Rutherglen Muscats

Answer 16

• RM and Classic: Medium garnet, pronounced aromas of raisin, figs, dates & sweet spices, sweet on palate medium alcohol (for fortified), pronounced intensity of flavours. V good quality, med priced. Classic deeper colour, more concentration/complexity than basic RM
• Grand & Rare: tawny or brown, nutty, liquorice, treacle character, even sweeter/ fuller bodied, with higher acidity, still some fruit to provide balance. Outstanding quality, premium to super premium prices.

Question 17

Does Rutherglen Muscat improve in the bottle?

Answer 17

No. Fully mature at release.

Drink within 1-2 years to taste at freshest

Question 18

Wine Business of Rutherglen Muscat

Answer 18

• Only a few wineries, most belonging to Muscat of Rutherglen Network
• Mostly estate grown, some bought in
• Fortified wine (not just RM) 2% of Australia global sales (20mL)
• Demand growing from small base
  
  • Key export markets China, UK, USA
• Significant producers Campbells, Chambers Rosewood