Ch.3/4/5/6 – Other Traditional Method Wines of France Flashcards

1
Q

What is Crémant?

A
  • Some (not all) regional French traditional method sparkling wines made outside the Champagne region.
  • Crémant PDO created to protect champagne
  • used to be semi-sparkling style within Champagne, but because of change in law - 1985 EU banned “méthode champenoise” - Crémant took on current meaning.
  • More regions created a Crémant (now 8)
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2
Q

How many Crémant appellations are there in France?

Name the 3 largest

A
  • 8 Crémant appellations in France:
  • Three largest
    • Alsace
    • Bourgogne
    • Loire
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3
Q

What are the six common features for all Crémant wines?

A
  1. Whole-bunch pressing (so hand-harvesting)
  2. Max yield at pressing of 100l per 150kg grapes
  3. Min 9 mths lees ageing during 2nd ferment in bottle
  4. Min 12 mths maturation between tirage and release (includes the 9mths lees ageing)
  5. Max 13% abv in finished wine
  6. Min 4 atmospheres pressure
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4
Q

What is the (2018) annual production of France’s non-Champagne sparkling wine regions?

A
  1. Loire total (Cremant, Saumur, Vouvray) ~460,000hL
    1. Cremant de Loire ~200,000hL
    2. Saumur sparkling ~80,000hL
    3. Vouvray sparkling ~50,000hL
    4. Other sparkling wines make up balance
  2. Alsace ~310,000hL
  3. Bourgogne ~225,000hL
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5
Q

Define Crémant d’Alsace

A
  • Sparkling wine made in the traditional method, mainly Brut
  • Main grape Pinot Blanc (though 5 others allowed: Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir)
  • Medium intensity, ripe, apple and pear fruit, medium+/high acidity, light/medium bodied
  • Longer lees-aged wines medium intensity biscuit, autolytic notes
  • Rosé must be 100% Pinot Noir, v good quality med/(+) intensity red berry fruit
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6
Q

Climate in Alsace

A
  • Vineyards 200m-400m on eastern flanks of Vosges foothills (Vosges shelter from prevailing westerlies)
  • Climate sunny, semi-continental, often dry/hot during growing season
  • Hot days, cool night: fruit ripeness, retains acidity: ideal
  • Possible problems
    • No irrigation permitted: water can be problem
    • Spring frost (esp earlier springs/ earlier bud break) leading to reduction in yields
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7
Q

How significant is Crémant for Alsace?

A
  • 25% of total wine production
  • 500 growers (often alongside still production)
  • 3,600 hectares vineyard area +15% in last 10 yrs
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8
Q

Where is Pinot Blanc grown in Alsace for sparkling wine production

A
  • Vineyards generally sheltered by Vosges
  • Best sites usually reserved for noble varieties for still wines (eg Riesling)
  • Pinot Blanc grown on lower elevations, fertile soils (not suitable for top quality)
  • Also on cooler sites in higher valleys where grapes for still wines would struggle to ripen (eg Munster Valley, where cool airflows retain acidity in grapes)
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9
Q

Pinot Blanc’s importance to Crémant d”Alsace?

A
  • 20% of total Alsace vineyard area (includes Auxerrois, as not distinguished in record-keeping, most are P Blanc)
  • PROS
    • Inexpensive
    • Early budding & ripening, so picked much earlier than other varieties (useful to spread out harvest)
    • floral, green apples, high acidity
  • CONS
    • early budding = spring frosts
    • prone to fungal diseases
    • simple quality (top growers use Pinot Gris instead)
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10
Q

What are the grape varieties permitted in Crémant D’Alsace?

A
  • SIX:
    • Pinot Blanc (main grape)
    • Auxerrois
    • Chardonnay (only Alsace appellation allowing it)
    • Riesling (preferred for still wines)
    • Pinot Gris (used by better producers for Pinot B)
    • Pinot Noir (ONLY grape for Cremant D’Alsace rosé)
  • NOT allowed - Gewurztraminer, Muscat
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11
Q

Harvest of Cremant D’ Alsace

A
  • early (end Aug/early Sept) for just-ripe fruit/high acid
  • By hand, whole berry mandatory for high quality juice low phenolics
  • Greater crop load than for still wines, as base wines don;t need high flavour concentration
    • max yields 80hL/ha vs. champagne 79 hL/ha.
  • Growers must declare in July if they are going to make Crémant
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12
Q

Winemaking for Crémant D’Alsace

A
  • as pot alcohol low (min 8.5%), must often chaptalised
  • Then traditional method for fully sparkling
  • Wines 100% single vintage - no reserve wines
  • Time on lees during second fermentation us 12 mths, so primary green apple fruit
  • Top producers age longer on lees (eg Cave de Turckheim co-op 2 years for least expensive), giving biscuit, autolytic notes.
  • Brut
  • Rosés macerate on skin 12-24 hours for colour
  • Dosage 8-10g/L range with sugar balancing high acidity
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13
Q

Crémant d’Alsace Emotion

A
  • 2012 prestige category for Alsace sparkling
  • min 75% Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay & Pinot Noir, separately or together
  • min 24 mths on lees
  • Some v good wines (Dom J-C Buecher), but new category not popular
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14
Q

Wine Business structure of Cremant D’Alsace

A
  • Production
    • 43% cooperatives
    • 37% merchant houses
    • 20% independent growers
  • Largest company is co-op Maison Bestheim, makes sparkling & still wine from 1400 ha, owning half the vineyards, the rest from 450 growers
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15
Q

Cremant D’Alsace sales and production

A
  • Production more than doubled between 2000-14
  • 80% sold in France, but exports rising with world demand
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16
Q

Cremant de Bourgogne in one card

A
  • Sparkling wine trad method
  • Chardonnay (most), Pinot Noir and <20% Gamay
  • 10% of total wines of Burgundy
  • Production doubled since 2000 (to 19.5m bts)
  • Range of styles, white Brut most common with med(+) acidity. Lightly fruity to richly toasty. Med intensity is green apple and lemon (cool) to apricot (warm) with brioche autolytic notes.
  • Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs and rosé also made.
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17
Q

Where grapes grown for Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • Appellation boundary as per Bourgogne AOC - fruit from any Burgundy departéments: 250km from Chablis to Beaujolais; can influence style
  • Main sources
    • Maconnais (Chardonnay eg Cave de Lugny co-op)
    • Cote Chalonnaise, esp rund Rully
    • Beaujolais
    • Chablis area in Yonne dept and Chatillon-sur-Seine (just South of southernmost Champagne)
    • Hauts Cotes de Beaune & Hauts Cotes de Nuits
    • flatlands on Cote D’Or
  • These are cooler and/or cheaper
18
Q

Largest single producer of Cremant de Bourgogne?

A
  • Veuve Ambal
  • owns 6 diff vineyards, supply grapes for 30% of their production volume
19
Q

Why is there a varied climate in Cremanty de Bourgogne?

A
  • Because region 250km North to South
  • NORTH cool climate - no hot dry summer. Vines need S or S-E for warmth & light. High acid, light body wines
  • CENTRAL continental. Low, oft freezing winter, dry, sunny summers. Just-ripe fruit, high acid. Yet still wines worth more on Cote D’Or, so little goes into Cremant
  • SOUTH (Maconnais, Beaujolais) mediterranean, high summers, riper fruit, lower acid. Risk summer storms
20
Q

Yields and declarations Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • Max yield 75 hL/ha depending on planting density
  • Must declare fruit is for Cremant before end of March, when pruning decisions have been made.
21
Q

Grapes for Cremant de Bourgogne (7)

A
  • Those grown for still.
  • In practice Pinot Noir & Chardonnay for autolytic traits
  • Also permitted Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Aligoté, Melon and Gamay
22
Q

Risks / hazards for Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • Same as for Burgundy as a whole
    • Hail
    • Spring frost
    • Fungal diseases
    • esca
23
Q

Winemaking in Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • Base wine from early harvest
  • Malo if desired
  • Cremant de Bourgogne: Blend minimum 30% Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Blanc or Gris, either alone or in blend (in practice Chardonnay & Pinot Noir as very little Blanc or Gris planted), max 20% Gamay allowed
  • Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay and other whites permitted
  • Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs only Pinot Noir
  • Cremant de Bourgogne Rosé only Pinot Noir, but small Gamay to help with colour if nec
24
Q

Structure of Wine Business of Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • 2/3 made by merchant houses
  • 30% cooperatives
  • 2% independent winemakers (cos expensive to make!)
    • but may take grapes to specialist to make wine, get bottles back to sell
25
Q

Sales of Cremant de Bourgogne

A
  • Sales up 1/3 in decade to 2017
  • top 10 companies (negociants and co-ops) 90% of volume.
  • Jean Charles Boisset, Louis Bollot significant
  • Exports 40% and growing, mainly USA and Sweden, rising rapidly in UK, Belgium & Germany
26
Q

What two tiers of Cremant de Bourgogne were recently introduced to develop quality heirarchy and improve returns?

A
  1. Cremant de Bourgogne Eminent
    • lees ageing minimum 24 mths
  2. Cremant de Bourgogne Grand Eminent
    • whites: Pinot Noir & Chardonnay only
    • rosés : 20% gamay allowed
    • vintage optional, but usual
    • minimum 36 mths lees + 3mths in bottle pre release
    • Brut only
27
Q

Why is sourcing grapes a problem for Cremant de Bourgogne?

A
  • General harvest yields (hail/frost)
  • Grapes for still wines so valuable (esp Chard/ Pinot N)
    • eg Rully growers used to grow for Cremant, but now get better prices for still wines
28
Q

One card overview of Loire Valley for Cremant

A
  • 7 sparkling appellations incl Cremant de Loire, sparkling Vouvray and sparkling Saumur
  • Cremant de Loire production is sum of other two
  • Total sparkling is 13% of all Loire
  • Champagne houses own major cos: Gartien & Meyer owned by Alfred Gratien, Langlois-Chateau by Bollinger
  • Historically Saumur is base, as caves suitable for ageing
  • 90% white, Chenin dominated, Brut, high acidity
    • med intensity green apple & citrus, light toasty autolytic. 2-3 years develop honeyed aromas.
  • mainly Brut, some Demi-Sec, Brut Zero increasing
  • mid priced, few premium
29
Q

One card on Cremant de Loire

A
  • Increasingly important, 1600 ha (2012) 2100 ha (2017)
  • 500 producers, av annual production 17m bts
  • Fruit only from middle Loire Anjou-Saumur and Touraine
    • 200km stretch of moderating river/tributaries
    • Zone S and S-W Saumur source of most fruit
    • Flatter land suitable (lower ripeness OK), slopes for still wines
  • Underlying tuff rock of Saumur excavated for buildings, leaving ideal maturation caves as constant temperature and humidity
30
Q

Climate for Cremant de Loire

A
  • Atlantic extemds cool, mild influence to E of Tours, centre of Touraine, covering most of Cremant de Loire
  • Regular temps, no extremes, can grow grapes low alcohol in base wines, high acidity.
  • Risks: Fungal diseases, untimely rain (flowering, fruit set and harvest)
31
Q

Soils in Cremant de Loire

A
  • Big area, wide range:
    • clay-limestone, flint-clay, sand, gravel, tuff.
    • more schist and limestone in Anjou
    • more chalk in Touraine
  • Overall key properties are good drainage and water characteristics of limestone
  • Best-exposed sites used for still wines, so less exposed sites, ofetn more clay for sparkling. Too much clay declassified as too cold, lack drainage.
  • Clay-limestone, flint-clay produce most structure
  • Rootstocks Fercal and Riparia Gloire de Montpelier used - lime resistant - protect from chlorois
32
Q

(8) Grape varieties in Cremant de Loire

A
  • the common grapes of the region
    • Chenin Blanc (major in most wines)
    • Cabernet Franc
    • Cabernet Sauvignon
    • Grolleau Noir
    • Grolleau Gris
    • Pineau d’Aunis
    • Pinot Noir
    • Chardonnay
  • Max 30% Cab Sav and Pineau d’Aunis allowed in blend
  • NO Sauvignon Blanc - too aromatic for trad method
33
Q

Yields and declaration for Cremant de Loire

A
  • Vines pruned to greater crop load than still
    • max yield 74 hL/ha
  • Producers declare in July to make Cremant
34
Q

Wine making in Cremant de Loire

A
  • Most common pneumatic press (quality/ low phenolic)
  • Base wines stainless steel fermented (no oak flavours)
    • Some premium Bouvay-Ladubay’s Cuvee Tresor ferment in oak
  • Malo varies: full, partial, none
  • wines from different areas can be blended before second fermentation to maintain consistency of style
  • timeon lees varies from min 9 mths (primary fruit) to 2 yrs for autolytic.
  • Reserve wines more common in premium wines
35
Q

What is the new top tier sparkling category in the Loire

A
  • 2018 Prestige de Loire (wines back to 2010)
  • aim to establish min prcie €10 in France
  • applies across Loire, Anjou, Saumur and Vouvray
  • White only
  • Chenin, Cab Franc, Chard, Pinot N, singly or blended
  • 24 mths on lees minimum
  • vintage dated
  • Brut style (
  • Producers must hit environmental standards to reach sustainable viticulture within 5 years
36
Q

Structure of Cremant de Loire industry

A
  • Production divided between
    • 19 merchant houses, 10 co-ops, 400 producers
    • 9 large houses = 80% production
    • eg Ackeman, Bouvet- Ladubay, Gratien & Meyer, Langlois-Chateau
  • Larger houses use own fruit and bought in
    • eg Langlois-Chateau own 73 ha in Anjou-Saumur. 25-30% of their Cremant is own vineyard, rest bought in (as grapes, not must, so can check health and press according to requirements
37
Q

Sales of Cremant de Loire

A
  • Half domestic to France
  • Half exported, main markets
    • Germany
    • USA
    • UK
38
Q

One card on Saumur Mousseux AOC

(Mousseux is generic term for sparkling)

A
  • Sparkling wine in the traditional method, mainly Brut
  • Saumur 60% sparkling, 40% still
  • Deep cellars from tuff perfect for lees ageing in bottle
  • Av annual production 10.6m bottles from 1,300 ha vines
  • Minimum 60% Chenin with max 10% Sauvignon Blanc
  • Rosés minimum 60% Cab Franc with max 10% Sauv Bl
  • Higher juice 100l from 130kg (Cremant 100 from 150 kg)
  • Mechanical harvest allowed (unlike Cremant), more wine can be made, but prob lower quality
39
Q

One card on Vouvray Mousseux

A
  • Sparkling wine in the traditional method
  • Deep cellars from tuff perfect for lees ageing in bottle
  • Av annual production 8.2m bottles from 1,200 ha
  • Minimum 95% Chenin Blanc
  • Tiny amount Vouvray Pétillant (lightly sparkling)
  • Pet Nat becoming fashionable
  • Higher juice 100l from 130kg (Cremant 100 from 150 kg)
  • Mechanical harvest allowed (unlike Cremant), more wine can be made, but prob lower quality
40
Q

Why is making sparkling wine instead of still wine an attractive option in Saumur and Vouvray?

A
  • 20% greater yield (don’t need fruit concentration)
    • 65 hL/ha Vouvray, 67hL/ha Saumur
  • ​pick earlier at lower ripeness so less risk of late season rain or botrytis spoiling/ reducing crop
41
Q

Why is making Mousseux instead of Cremant an attractive option in Saumur and Vouvray?

A
  • Mechanical harvest
  • More juice permitted
    • 130l from 130kg
42
Q

Winemaking in Saumur & Vouvray

A
  • Sparkling wine houses and cooperatives do everything in-house
  • Still wine producers making mousseux will use specialists (who have the expertise and equipment) for bottling, second fermentation, lees ageing and disgorgement.
  • Bottles returned to producer for labelling/distribution
    • eg Berger Elaborateur in Saint-Martin-le-Beau best known