Ch. 16 - Haircutting Flashcards
angle
Space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point.
apex
AY-peks
Highest point on the top of the head.
beveling
Haircutting technique using diagonal lines by cutting hair ends with a slight increase or decrease in length.
blunt haircut
Also known as a one-length haircut; haircut in which all the hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area; hair is cut with no elevation or overdirection.
carving
Haircutting technique done by placing the still blade into the hair, resting it on the scalp, and then moving the shears through the hair while opening and partially closing the shears.
cast
Method of manufacturing shears; a metal-forming process whereby molten steel is poured into a mold and, once the metal is cooled, takes on the shape of the mold.
clipper-over-comb
Haircutting technique similar to scissor-over-comb, except that the clippers move side to side across the comb rather than bottom to top.
cross-checking
Parting the haircut in the opposite way from which you cut it in order to check for precision of line and shape.
crown
Area of the head between the apex and back of the parietal ridge.
cutting line
Angle at which the fingers are held when cutting, and, ultimately, the line that is cut; also known as finger angle, finger position, cutting position, or cutting angle.
diagonal back
A type of diagonal line that creates movement away from the face.
diagonal forward
A type of diagonal line that creates movement toward the face.
distribution
Where and how hair is moved over the head.
effilating
Also known as slithering; process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears; cutting the hair with a sliding movement of the shears while keeping the blades partially opened.
elevation
Also known as projection or lifting; the degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or lifted, from the head when cutting.
forged
FORJed
Process of working metal to a finished shape by hammering or pressing.
four corners
Points on the head that signal a change in the shape of the head, from flat to round or vice versa.
free-hand notching
Haircutting technique in which pieces of hair are snipped out at random intervals.
free-hand slicing
Haircutting technique used to release weight from the subsection, allowing the hair to move more freely.
graduated haircut
Slow or immediate buildup of weight; an effect or haircut that results from cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation, or overdirection.
graduation
Elevation that occurs when a section is lifted above 0 degrees.
growth pattern
Direction in which the hair grows from the scalp; also referred to as natural fall or natural falling position.
guideline
Also known as guide; section of hair, located either at the perimeter or the interior of the cut, which determines the length the hair will be cut. Usually the first section that is cut to create a shape.
hairline
Hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face, around the ears, and on the neck.
head form
Also known as head shape; the shape of the head, which greatly affects the way the hair falls and behaves.
Interior
Inner or internal part.
interior guideline
Guideline that is inside the haircut rather than on the perimeter.
layered haircut
Effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or overdirection; the hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees or above, which removes weight.
layers
Create movement and volume in the hair by releasing weight.
line
Thin, continuous mark used as a guide; can be straight or curved, horizontal, vertical, or diagonal.
long-layered haircut
Haircut in which the hair is cut at a 90-degree elevation and then overdirected to maintain length and weight at the perimeter.
nape
Back part of the neck; the hair below the occipital bone.
notching
Haircutting technique, a version of point cutting, in which the tips of the shears are moved toward the hair ends rather than into them; creates a chunkier effect.
occipital bone
ahk-SIP-ih-tul BOHN
Bone that protrudes at the base of the skull.
overdirection
Combing a section away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head, toward a guideline; used to create increasing lengths in the interior or perimeter.
palm-to-palm
Cutting position in which the palms of both hands are facing each other.
parietal ridge
puh-RY-ate-ul RIJ
Widest area of the head, usually starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown.
part/parting
Line dividing the hair at the scalp, separating one section of hair from another, creating subsections.
perimeter
Outer line of a hairstyle.
pivoting
Rotates from a central point; also referred to as pie shape sections, used for layering and graduating.
point cutting
Haircutting technique in which the tips of the shears are used to cut points into the ends of the hair.
razor-over-com
Texturizing technique in which the comb and the razor are used on the surface of the hair.
razor rotation
Texturizing technique similar to razor-over-comb, done with small circular motions.
reference points
Points on the head that mark where the surface of the head changes or the behavior of the hair changes, such as ears, jawline, occipital bone, apex, and so on; used to establish design lines that are proportionate.
scissor-over-comb
Also known as shear-over-comb; haircutting technique in which the hair is held in place with the comb while the tips of the shears are used to remove length.
section
To divide the hair by parting into uniform working areas for control. During haircutting, the working areas of the hair. Working in smaller sections gives better control.
shrinkage
When hair contracts or lifts through the action of moisture loss or drying.
slicing
Haircutting technique that removes weight and adds movement through the lengths of the hair; the shears are not completely closed, and only the portion of the blades near the pivot is used.
slide cutting
Method of cutting or layering the hair in which the fingers and shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length.
stationary guideline
Guideline that does not move.
subsections
Smaller sections within a larger section of hair, used to maintain control of the hair while cutting.
taper
Haircutting effect in which there is an even blend from very short at the hairline to longer lengths as you move up the head; to taper is to narrow progressively at one end.
tension
Amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a section, created by stretching or pulling the section.
texturizing
Haircutting technique designed to remove excess bulk without shortening the length; changing the appearance or behavior of the hair through specific haircutting techniques using shears, thinning shears, or a razor.
traveling guideline
Also known as movable guideline; guideline that moves as the haircutting progresses, used often when creating layers or graduation.
uniform layers
Hair is elevated to 90 degrees from the scalp and cut at the same length.
weight line
Visual line in the haircut where the ends of the hair hang together.
