British Beekeeping exam

Question 1

What is the care needed when handling a colony of honey bees?

Answer 1

• Be clean and avoid strong smells that may agitate the bees
• Work gently, quietly, and minimize disturbance to the hive
• Use a smoker properly to calm the bees before opening the hive
• Avoid crushing bees as this releases alarm pheromones
• Keep the apiary tidy to allow efficient hive inspections
• Take precautions when leaving the apiary to avoid being followed by bees
• Wear proper protective clothing including a veil
• Avoid inspecting hives in very hot/cold weather or windy conditions
• Lift and move hive components carefully to prevent injury

Question 2

What is the reaction of honey bees to smoke?

Answer 2

• Bees fill themselves on honey when exposed to smoke, which makes them less inclined to sting as their honey stomachs become full. This was likely an adaptation to prepare for potentially absconding from forest fires.
• Smoke masks or suppresses the alarm pheromones (isopentyl acetate and 2-heptanone) that guard bees release to alert the colony to threats and recruit other bees to attack. The pheromones have a banana-like smell.
• With the alarm pheromones masked by smoke, the colony does not receive the signal to defend the hive, so they remain relatively calm and do not attack in large numbers.
• Filling on honey may also cause the bees to become lethargic, similar to humans overeating at a buffet, making them less reactive.

Question 3

What is the importance of cleanliness of personal equipment needed to open a colony of honey bees?

Answer 3

The importance of cleanliness of personal equipment needed to open a colony of honey bees is to prevent the spread of pests and diseases between colonies and apiaries.

• Sources of infection include infected combs, honey, beekeeping equipment, and the beekeeper’s clothing.
• Hive tools should be cleaned by soaking in a washing soda solution between inspecting each colony to prevent transferring pathogens.

Question 4

What are the reasons for opening a colony?

Answer 4

• Check for presence of the queen and evidence of her laying a solid brood pattern
• Inspect for any signs of disease or pests like varroa mites
• Ensure the colony has adequate food stores of honey and pollen
• Check space requirements and add/remove boxes as needed
• Look for any comb issues like cross-combing or brace comb that needs correction
• Conduct management tasks like reversing boxes, making splits, etc.
• Collect honey surplus from full honey supers

The BBKA advises only opening colonies when there is a specific need or purpose, as frequent disturbance can set back the colony’s development. Inspections should be done calmly and efficiently to minimize stress on the bees.

Question 5

What is the need for stores?

Answer 5

According to the BBKA, an ideal winter colony of 6 frames of bees needs approximately 40 lbs (around 20kg) of stored honey/syrup to last them until spring. This equates to having stores filling most of a brood box plus a full super on top.

• Bees need abundant stores to survive the winter when they are not able to forage for nectar/pollen.
• The recommended 40 lbs allows the colony to rear brood in early spring before nectar becomes available again.
• If stores run low, the colony can starve or the bees may be unable to maintain brood rearing, weakening the colony.
• Providing adequate winter stores, ideally as thick syrup fed in fall, minimizes work for the bees and prevents starvation.

Question 6

What is the importance of record keeping?

Answer 6

• Monitor colony health and identify issues early (e.g. pests, diseases, poor performance)
• Track honey production and plan harvesting/feeding needs
• Comply with legal requirements and biosecurity codes
• Learn from experiences and improve management practices over time
• Enable participation in surveys and research studies
• Maintain financial records for business purposes

Question 7

How do you open a colony of honey bees while keeping the colony under control?

Answer 7

• Light and use a smoker to puff cool smoke into the hive entrance. The smoke causes the bees to gorge on honey, making them more docile.
• Use a hive tool to pry apart the boxes of the hive gently. More smoke can be puffed between boxes as you work.
• Examine frames slowly and carefully, taking care not to crush any bees. Use the smoker again if the bees become agitated.
• When finished examining, replace frames gently and put boxes back together, puffing a bit more smoke before closing up completely.
• Record observations about the colony’s condition in a record book for future reference.

Question 8

How do you light the smoker?

Answer 8

• Gather suitable kindling material that burns quickly (e.g. paper egg cartons, newspaper, dryer lint) and slower burning fuel (e.g. wood bark, pine needles, hay, burlap strips). Avoid toxic materials.
• Place the quick-burning kindling in the smoker first and light it.
• Once a small flame is established, add the slower burning fuel in small amounts while continuing to billow air into the smoker to keep the fire lit.
• Ensure the smoker is fully lit and producing ample smoke before approaching the hive.
• Billow the smoker every 10 minutes to prevent the fire from going out during inspections.
• Wear proper protective gear (veil, gloves) when lighting and operating the smoker.

Question 9

How do you use the smoker?

Answer 9

• Push veil back from face when lighting to avoid flame reaching the veil
• Use smoke to encourage bees to gorge on honey, making them less able to sting
• Smoke masks alarm pheromones, reducing defensive behavior
• Use smoke to force bees down into hive when reassembling
• Have enough fuel to complete the full colony inspection

After done using the smoker:
- dump whats inside out, but make sure its not done near anything flammable. step on it or pour water over it
- can also put a cork into the spout, to prevent oxygen from getting through

Question 10

How do you use the hive tool?

Answer 10

• Use the flat end of the standard hive tool to pry apart frames and boxes by inserting it between them and levering it back towards you to break the propolis seal.
• For tight frames, use the hooked “J” end of the J-tool. Slide the curved end down between the frame and box wall, hooking under the top bar. Push forward to pivot and lift out the frame without crushing bees.
• The sharp end of the hive tool can be used to scrape off propolis and wax buildup on frames and boxes.
• Avoid using excessive force that can damage frames or boxes. Use the tools gently and precisely to minimize disturbing the bees.

Question 11

How do you remove the combs from the hive?

Answer 11

• Work slowly and calmly, giving the bees time to move out of the way. Don’t smoke them excessively.
• Use a sharp hive tool to gently pry and lift the unwanted comb away from the frames or surfaces it is attached to.
• Shake or brush off any bees still clinging to the comb you are removing.
• Keep an eye out for the queen and be very careful in areas where she may be present to avoid injuring her.
• It’s best to remove rogue comb as soon as possible before the bees continue building it out further, wasting resources.
• Removing large amounts of new comb and larvae can set the colony back, so weigh this against leaving some for them

Question 12

What do the workers look like in the hive?

Answer 12

• Workers are smaller than the queen, with less dense hair
• They make up the majority of the colony, ranging from 50-500 workers depending on the species
• Workers take on tasks like caring for brood, cleaning the nest, defending the nest, feeding the queen, and foraging for nectar
• Workers have underdeveloped reproductive organs and cannot mate, though it’s not impossible for them to lay unfertilized drone eggs
• Workers show strong individual variation in their nest behavior and roles, which is stable over time
• Their spatial location and interactions within the nest help determine if they will switch roles, like becoming a forager when needed

Question 13

What do the drones look like in the hive?

Answer 13

• Drones are the male honey bees in the colony. They have the following distinguishing characteristics:
• Larger and stouter bodies compared to worker bees
  Large eyes that meet at the top of the head
• No pollen baskets on their legs
• No stinger
• Make a loud, deep buzzing sound when flying
• Hang around in the hive doing no work, being fed by workers
• Present in the hive during the swarming season from spring through early summer

Question 14

What do the queen cells look like in the hive?

Answer 14

Queen cells have a distinctive look that allows you to identify them easily in the hive:
- They are larger than regular worker brood cells, about the size and shape of a peanut in the shell.
- They hang vertically on the face of the brood comb, unlike worker cells which are horizontal.
- They have a rough, porous texture compared to the smooth worker cells.
- When first constructed, they look like a small half-sphere of fresh white/yellow wax protruding from the comb.
- As the queen larva develops, the cell extends further into a larger peanut-like shape.
- Once capped, the cap has a more rounded and bulbous appearance compared to flat worker caps

Question 15

What do the cups look like in the hive?

Answer 15

• They may not be present
• A queen cup, or emergency queen cup as they are often called, is an empty queen cup that bees often have in the hive
• Queen cups are special structures built by worker bees to indicate to the queen that she needs to lay a fertilized egg there for rearing a new queen.
• They are peanut-shaped and hang vertically from the comb.
• They are about the size of a peanut in the shell.
• They have a raised circular rim around the top edge.
• Worker bees deposit a small amount of royal jelly in the base of the cup.
• There may be one or a few queen cups present on the edges of the brood frames.
• If the existing queen is getting old or the colony is preparing to swarm, the workers will build several queen cups and the queen will lay fertilized eggs in them to rear new queens

Question 16

How can you comment on the state of the combs?

Answer 16

Good combs in hives should be:
- Clean
- Not dark colored (unless using for reference to comb changes)
- State the percentage of brood, etc.

Question 17

What do the female castes look like?

Answer 17

Queen
- The only fertile female in the colony
- Lays up to 2,000 eggs per day
- Mates with multiple drones on mating flights
- Lives for around 3 years
- Produces pheromones that regulate colony behavior

Worker
- Sterile females that perform all the labor in the hive
- Do not mate
- Live for 4-6 weeks during active season, longer in winter
- Roles include nursing larvae, building comb, foraging, guarding hive
- Develop from fertilized eggs laid by the queen

Question 18

What are the stages of brood?

Answer 18

The four stages of brood are:
Egg - The queen lays tiny white eggs, one per cell. This stage lasts 3 days.
Larva - After hatching, the larva is a legless white grub that is fed by nurse bees for around 5 days (worker bees) or 6.5 days (drones).
Pupa/Capped Brood - The larva is sealed in its cell with a wax capping and pupates, undergoing metamorphosis for about 13 days (worker) or 15 days (drone) to develop into an adult bee.
Adult - The fully developed bee chews its way out of the capped cell as an adult worker, drone or queen.

Question 19

Identify each stage of brood

Answer 19

Eggs: Small white dashes or “tic tacs” laid at the bottom of cells

Small Larvae: Small white C-shaped larvae sitting in a pool of royal jelly

Large Larvae: Larger C-shaped larvae that have consumed more royal jelly

Pupae (Capped Brood): Flat golden wax cappings over pupating larva

Question 20

What is the difference between drone, worker and honey capping?

Answer 20

Drone Capping
- Rounded, bullet-shaped caps
- Protrudes out more than worker brood
- Looks like an eraser at the end of a pencil

Worker Capping
- Slightly protruding caps
- Smaller and flatter than drone caps
- Slight bump compared to honey capping

Honey Capping
- Slightly indented caps compared to worker brood
- Capping is thinner than brood capping

Question 21

What does stored nectar look like?

Answer 21

• Thick, syrupy liquid
• Capped with a thin layer of beeswax to seal it for long-term storage
• Stored in the upper parts of the hive, away from the brood nest
• Varies in color from nearly clear to dark amber depending on the nectar source

Question 22

What does stored honey look like?

Answer 22

• Honey stored in the comb appears as sealed cells with a thin layer of wax covering the honey
• The wax cappings are slightly convex and translucent, allowing the honey to be seen through the caps
• Properly cured honey has a moisture content of 17-18%
• Capped honey is thick and viscous, not runny
• Uncapped honey may be thinner in consistency
• Color varies depending on the nectar source, from nearly colorless to dark amber
• Lighter colored honeys are usually milder in flavor, while darker honeys are more robust

Question 23

What does stored pollen look like?

Answer 23

• Granules of various colors (yellow, orange, brown, red, white, etc.) packed into the cells of the honeycomb
• The pollen is mixed with nectar and bee saliva to form “bee bread”, which is a fermented, nutritious food for the developing larvae and adult bees
• Stored pollen has a drier, more compact consistency compared to fresh pollen on flowers
• The color of stored pollen reflects the different plant sources the bees have been foraging on

Question 24

How would you take a sample of worker bees into a suitable container?

Answer 24

Prepare a small plastic bag (e.g. a “zip-lock” bag, small food bag, or coin bag) and a short tube (e.g. toilet roll tube, outer sleeve of a matchbox, short piece of plastic pipe, or rolled up card).

Move the opening of the tube around the top of the brood frames. The bees’ instinct is to go “up and into the dark”. Allow them to investigate and walk into the bag on their own.

Once you have approximately 30 bees in the bag and tube, perform a single, smooth, swift action:
- Turn the bag/tube upside down
- Give a single downward jolt to dislodge any bees in the tube into the bottom of the bag
- Remove the tube and seal the bag

Make sure the queen is not in the sample. The bees can be killed humanely by putting the sealed bag in the freezer overnight at -18°C (0°F).

For sending samples to a lab, use a small sturdy box (e.g. standard matchbox size) well-packaged to avoid squashing the bees. Avoid glass or plastic containers. Include a completed sample submission form with contact info and payment.

Question 25

What is the difference between stored nectar and honey in terms of their appearance?

Answer 25

Nectar: - Thin, watery, and translucent - Glistening with morning dew Honey: - Thick, rich, velvety, and sticky - More viscous than nectar

Question 26

What are the different parts of the beehive?

Answer 26

- Hoffmann brood frames - Dummy boards - Brace comb - Propolis - Brood Box - Manley super frames - Frames - Bottom Board - Inner cover - Outer cover/roof - Hive stand - Queen excluder - Entrance reducer - Mouse guard

Question 27

What is the space required between the frames and sections?

Answer 27

6-9mm

Question 28

What is important to take into consideration for the apiary layout?

Answer 28

- orientation - spacing and access - population (forage density) - wind, shade, and frost - flight paths - drifting - moving hives (less than 1m or more than 5km)

Question 29

What is the material needed to open a hive?

Answer 29

- smoker - hive tool - hygiene - bee sting first aid - bee suit/jacket with veil - beekeeping gloves

Question 30

What are the different types of feeding?

Answer 30

- thin syrup - thick syrup - candy - robbing

Question 31

What is thin syrup and why would it be used?

Answer 31

- 50% sugar - should be given in the spring when it is in immediate use by the colony and to encourage brood-rearing - 11:25 ratio of sugar to water - used as emergency feeding because it is an easily acessible and consumable food source

Question 32

What is thick syrup and why would it be used?

Answer 32

- 65% sugar - should be given in later summer/autumn to create stores - 2:1 ratio of sugar to water - it's used because it is more easily processed by the bees before they store it, therefore at a time you want the bees to process it quickly, but you don't want them working too hard - for example, thick syrup in the fall allows the bees to quickly cure and cap it before cold weather arrives, when they're less able to process thinner syrup

Question 33

What is candy and why would it be used?

Answer 33

-its optional with pollen to encourage build-up - winter or with small colonies to survive - Candy refers to a thick sugar paste or fondant made by mixing sugar with a small amount of water. It is fed to honeybee colonies in the fall or winter for the following reasons: - It provides a concentrated food source that is easy for the bees to store without needing to dehydrate it further. - Feeding thick candy in the fall allows the bees to quickly cap and store it before cold weather when they are less active. - Candy stimulates the colony less than thinner syrups, which is desirable in fall to avoid excessive brood rearing that can't be supported over winter. Solid candy is less likely to promote conditions favorable for nosema disease compared to thin syrups.

Question 34

What is robbing and why would it be used?

Answer 34

Robbing refers to the act of honey bees entering another colony's hive and stealing their honey stores. It typically occurs when there is a shortage of nectar sources in the environment, prompting stronger colonies to raid weaker or dead colonies for their honey reserves. Robbing is generally not an intentional practice by beekeepers, as it can lead to increased aggression, spread of diseases, and weakening of colonies. However, some reasons why robbing may occur or be allowed include: - To harvest honey from weaker or dead colonies that would otherwise be wasted. - To combine or "rob out" a weak colony by shaking the bees into a stronger colony, taking their honey stores. - Accidental robbing due to spilled honey or syrup around the apiary, attracting bees from other hives. Beekeepers aim to prevent robbing by avoiding conditions that promote it, such as leaving hive entrances open too wide, spilling honey or syrup, or having weak colonies that cannot defend themselves. Proper management and timely harvesting of honey are crucial to minimize the risk of robbing and its negative consequences.

Question 35

What is the number of worker bees required for an adult disease diagnosis sample?

Answer 35

30 bees

Question 36

How would you shake bees from a comb?

Answer 36

- Hold the frame by the end lugs between your thumb and index finger. - Lift the frame a little way out of the hive box. - Jerk the frame back down a similar distance into the box. - This dislodges the bees, causing them to fall to the bottom of the box. - The bees will quickly walk or fly back onto the adjacent combs.

Question 37

How would you look for signs of brood disease?

Answer 37

Symptoms to Look For: - Irregular or patchy brood pattern - Sunken, perforated, discolored cell caps - Off-color or abnormally positioned larvae - Decomposed, ropey, or dried remains in cells When to Inspect: - Early spring - During main honey flow - When preparing hives for winter How to Inspect: - Wear protective gear - Gently shake bees off frame - Visually inspect brood area - Look for symptoms listed above - Conduct ropiness test if needed - Submit samples if disease suspected

Question 38

Name and explain the function of the principal parts of a modern beehive

Answer 38

From bottom to top: Hive Stand: - Elevates the hive off the ground for better ventilation and to prevent pests - Allows easier access when inspecting the hive Bottom Board: - Forms the floor of the hive and provides a single entrance/exit point for bees - Can be solid or screened for improved ventilation and mite monitoring Brood Chamber (Deep Hive Body): - Large box where the queen lays eggs and workers store pollen and honey for food - Typically two deep hive bodies are used, with the lower one as the brood nest Queen Excluder: - Grid that prevents the queen from entering the honey supers while allowing workers to pass through - Ensures honey supers contain only honey and not brood Honey Super: - Boxes placed above the brood chamber to collect surplus honey for harvest - Bees store excess honey here that the beekeeper can remove Inner Cover: - Shallow tray placed on top of the uppermost box with a hole for ventilation - Provides space for bees to move between boxes Telescoping Outer Cover: - Protects the hive from weather and insulates it - Extends over the sides of the hive to keep it dry

Question 39

What does healthy brood look like?

Answer 39

- Uniform, regular brood pattern - Convex, light-colored cell caps - Glistening white larvae curled at cell base - Pupae darkening in color as they develop

Question 40

Discuss the concept of the bee space and its significance in the modern beehive

Answer 40

The precise 6-9 mm gap that honeybees maintain between their combs and the walls of their nest cavity. It is the optimal space for bees to move between combs without filling it with propolis or building burr comb. Significance: - Allows easy removal of frames and boxes without disturbing bees or damaging combs - Enables modular, standardized hive design with frames hanging 8 mm from top and sides - Prevents bees from attaching combs to hive walls, making inspections and honey harvesting easier - Facilitates beekeeping practices like splitting colonies, treating for pests/diseases, and collecting honey

Question 41

How do you assemble a brood frame and fit it with wired wax foundation?

Answer 41

- Remove the wedge from the top bar of the frame - Push or hammer the top bar into the joints on the side bars, making sure the grooves in the side bars face inwards - Attach the bottom bars to the side bars to complete the frame assembly - Remove the wax foundation from its packaging at the last minute to keep it clean - Feed the wax sheet between the bottom bars and into the grooves in the side bars, using both hands to gently guide it down - Bend the wire loops 90 degrees so they sit flush on the underside of the top bar where the wedge was removed - Replace the wedge on top of the wire loops to secure the wax foundation - Use 2-3 pins through the wire loops beneath the wedge to fix it in place

Question 42

What is the spacing of the combs in the brood chamber and super for both foundation and drawn comb?

Answer 42

Brood Chamber with Foundation: - Use narrow spacing between frames to draw whole frame - Position foundation in middle of box above brood & drawn comb on outer Brood Chamber with Drawn Comb: - Use production spacing of 10 frames in a 10 frame box - Stick foundation frames in-between drawn comb frames, even in the center of the brood nest - Add drawn comb and foundation in checkerboard fashion Supers with Foundation or Drawn Comb: - Use production spacing of 10 frames in a 10 frame box

Question 43

What are methods used to achieve the spacing between the combs in the brood chamber and super for both foundation and drawn comb?

Answer 43

Brood Chambers: - Push all frames tight together in the center of the box when starting with foundation. This allows the bees to draw all frames evenly. - Space brood frames close to what the bees would naturally build at 36-38mm between centers. This is known as "narrow" spacing in the UK and Ireland. - Use self-spacing frames where the side bars are wider, such as "Hoffman" frames. The width of these varies slightly (41-43mm). Supers: - Space super frames wider than brood frames once they are fully drawn out, known as "wide" spacing in the UK and Ireland at 46.5mm. This allows the bees to vary the length of food cells. - Manley frames are quite popular in the UK and Ireland for supers. They are self-spacing with parallel side bars of varying widths (41-43mm), allowing 10 frames in a National box. Both Brood and Supers - Push the outermost frames snug against the box, then space the inner frames equally between them. - Alternatively, maintain the same spacing between the top bars and the edge of the box for the outermost frames as between each adjacent frame. - The same spacing rules apply to both supers and brood boxes, but supers can be spaced wider once fully drawn out.

Question 44

Give an elementary account of the development of queens, workers and drones in the honey bee colony

Answer 44

Egg Stage: - All honey bees begin as eggs laid by the queen. - Fertilized eggs develop into females (workers or queens). - Unfertilized eggs develop into males (drones). Larval Stage: - Eggs hatch into larvae after approximately three days. - Larvae are fed by nurse bees and grow rapidly. - This stage lasts four to six days. Prepupal Stage: - At the end of the larval stage, worker bees cap the cell with beeswax. - The larva covers itself in silk. Pupal Stage: - The bee transforms into its adult form, developing legs, wings, and other body parts. - This stage is crucial for the bee's final development. Adult Stage: - The new bee emerges from its cell. - Queens, workers, and drones each have distinct roles in the colony: - Queen: Lays eggs, controls colony behavior through pheromones. - Worker: Performs various tasks such as cleaning, feeding, building, and foraging. - Drone: Mates with queens, ensuring genetic diversity.

Question 45

What is the brood chamber?

Answer 45

The brood chamber, also known as the brood box, is the part of the hive where the queen bee lays her eggs and the brood (immature bees) develops. It is typically the lower section of the hive and contains the queen, nurse bees, comb, bee bread (fermented pollen), some honey, larvae, eggs, and pupae. The brood chamber is usually a deep box or a combination of medium boxes that provide the necessary space for the queen to lay eggs and the colony to grow

Question 46

What is the super?

Answer 46

The super, also known as the honey super, is the upper section of the hive where the bees store excess honey. It is typically a medium box (6 inches high) and is added to the hive when the nectar flow starts or just before it begins. The super is designed to provide additional space for the bees to store honey, which can be harvested by the beekeeper. One medium frame of honey in a super can yield about 4.2 pounds of honey.

Question 47

State the periods spent by the female castes and the drone in the four stages of their life (egg, larva, pupa and adult)

Answer 47

Queen: - Egg: 3 days - Larva: 5 days - Pupa: 7 days - Adult: 3 years Worker: - Egg: 3 days - Larva: 5 days - Pupa: 7 days - Adult: 4-6 weeks (summer), 4-6 months (winter) Drone: - Egg: 3 days - Larva: 5 days - Pupa: 7 days - Adult: 57 days

Question 48

What is the main local flora from which honey bees gather pollen and nectar?

Answer 48

Trees: Pussy willow, Hawthorn, Basswood, Maple, Chokecherry, Plum/Cherry, Raspberry Herbaceous plants: Lanceleaf coreopsis, Penstemon, Wild Lupine, Virginia waterleaf, Siberian squill, Brassica spp., Early figwort, Phacelia, Fireweed Mid-season plants: Leadplant, New Jersey tea, Prairie rose, Butterfly milkweed, Mints, Clovers (not red clover)

Question 49

Simple definition of nectar

Answer 49

Nectar is essentially water containing dissolved substances, primarily sugars (sucrose, fructose, and glucose), and other components in smaller quantities.

Question 50

How is nectar collected, brought back to the hive and is converted into honey?

Answer 50

Nectar Collection: - Foraging bees collect nectar from flowers using their proboscis (tubular tongue) - Nectar is stored in the bee's honey stomach or crop - A single forager may visit 100 or more flowers to fill its honey stomach Nectar Transport to Hive: - Loaded foragers return to the hive and pass the nectar to house bees via trophallaxis (food exchange) - Nectar concentration may increase slightly during transport due to evaporation from the bee's tongue Honey Processing: - House bees chew the nectar for up to 30 minutes, adding enzymes like invertase - Invertase breaks down sucrose in nectar into glucose and fructose - Bees place the partially processed nectar into hexagonal wax cells - Bees fan the nectar with their wings to evaporate excess water, reducing moisture content to around 18% When honey reaches the right consistency, bees cap the cells with wax to seal and preserve it

Question 51

Simple description of the collection and use of pollen in the honey bee colony

Answer 51

Collection: - Pollen is collected by worker bees, usually aged 3-6 weeks old - Foragers visit flowers to collect pollen, which they pack into pollen baskets on their hind legs - Bees use different techniques to collect pollen depending on the type of flower: - Open flowers: Bite anthers with mandibles and pull with forelegs - Tubular flowers: Incidental collection on mouthparts and forelegs while searching for nectar - Closed flowers: Force petals apart with forelegs to collect pollen - Spike/catkin flowers: Run along spikes shaking off pollen onto body hairs - Presentation flowers: Press abdomen against inflorescence to push out pollen mass Use: - Pollen is the main protein source for honey bees, used to feed larvae and develop young bees - Seeing bees return with pollen indicates the colony is queenright and the queen is laying eggs - Different pollen colors in the hive indicate which flowers the bees are visiting - An average colony requires 15-30kg of pollen annually depending on brood levels Importance: - Pollen is essential for the growth and development of the honey bee colony - Collecting pollen is a major part of the foraging activities of worker bees - Analyzing the pollen collected by bees can provide insights into the plants they visit and the health of the colony

Question 52

Simple description of the collection and use of water in the honey bee colony

Answer 52

Collection: - Bees collect water from sources like damp rocks, puddles, pond edges, and vegetation - Water foragers fill their crops and bring water back to the hive - The number of water foragers depends on the colony's need for water Uses: - Dilute honey: Bees mix water with honey to dilute it for consumption. Helps prevent honey from fermenting and spoiling - Cool the hive: Bees spread water inside the hive and fan to evaporate it, cooling the hive. Prevents overheating of brood during hot weather - Feed larvae: Nurse bees mix water with pollen and nectar to feed developing larvae. Provides moisture for larval food - Dissolve crystallized honey: Bees use water to dissolve crystallized honey stored for winter. Allows them to consume the stored food Control: - The colony adaptively controls water collection based on need - Water foragers sense the colony's need by how easily they can unload water to receivers inside the hive - More water receivers are activated when the colony needs more wate

Question 53

Simple description of the collection and use of propolis in the honey bee colony

Answer 53

Bees collect resins from tree buds and bark, mix with beeswax and enzymes to make propolis Propolis is used to: - Seal cracks and crevices in the hive to control airflow and maintain temperature/humidity - Smooth rough surfaces and coat the interior of the hive - Embalm invaders that die in the hive, preventing decay - Propolis has antimicrobial properties that help protect the colony from pathogens - Bees increase propolis collection when the colony is sick to boost immunity - Domesticated bees collect less propolis than wild bees due to beekeeper selection against the trait

Question 54

Elementary description of the way in which the honey bee colony passes the winter

Answer 54

Cluster Formation: - As temperatures drop in autumn, worker bees form a tight cluster around the queen to conserve heat - The cluster expands and contracts based on outside temperature to maintain an optimal temperature of around 20°C Food Reserves: - Bees need at least 20-30 lbs (9-14 kg) of honey/sugar stores to survive the winter - Stores should be ripe, capped honey or thick sugar syrup fed in autumn - Bees pack pollen preserved with a little honey into cells to provide protein for brood rearing in spring Brood Rearing: - The queen stops laying eggs in late autumn and resumes in late winter/early spring - Bees cluster tightly around the queen and any brood to keep it warm - Bees eat pollen and honey to produce brood food to feed the queen and any brood Cleansing Flights: - Bees take short cleansing flights on warm winter days to defecate (process by which bees expel waste from their digestive system) outside the hive - Hives should be positioned to catch winter sunlight to encourage cleansing flights Ventilation: - Bees produce water vapor from respiration, so some ventilation is needed to prevent dampness - Open mesh floors provide good ventilation, with entrance reduced to mouse guard size Protection: - Hive entrances should be above potential snow levels - Hives can be wrapped with wire mesh to prevent woodpecker damage - Weak colonies are vulnerable to robbing by stronger colonies or wasps in late winter

Question 55

Elementary description of how to set up an apiary

Answer 55

Choose a suitable location: - Sheltered from wind and strong sunlight - Away from high-traffic areas - Accessible for management Arrange hives on a level, stable stand: - Hives should be 500mm apart with entrances facing the same direction - Twist or turn hives slightly to prevent wind pushing bees into wrong hive - Use a single stand or individual stands for each hive Provide a water source: - Bees need water for cooling the hive and diluting honey - Place a shallow container with stones or wood for bees to land on Maintain good hygiene: - Keep the apiary clean and tidy - Disinfect equipment between uses - Dispose of dead bees and debris promptly Ensure adequate space for management: - Leave enough room between hives for inspections and manipulations - Provide a clear flight path for bees to enter and exit the hive Consider the impact on neighbors: - Locate the apiary away from high-traffic areas - Provide a tall hedge or fence to direct bee flight path Protect hives from pests and predators: - Use a mouse guard to prevent rodents from entering the hive - Install an electric fence to deter bears and other large predators

Question 56

Describe what precautions should be taken to avoid the honey bees being a nuisance to neighbours and livestock

Answer 56

- Locate hives away from areas of high human and animal traffic - Face hive entrances away from roads, paths, and neighboring properties - Provide a water source near the hives to discourage bees from visiting neighbors' water sources - Use a bee-proof fence or hedge around the apiary to deflect bees upwards - Avoid locating hives near livestock as bees may sting animals that disturb the hives - Ensure hives are stable and unlikely to fall over, which could provoke the bees - Maintain good hygiene around the apiary and avoid spilling honey or syrup that could attract robbing bees - Requeen colonies that exhibit unusually defensive behavior - Educate neighbors about the importance of honey bees and how to avoid provoking them

Question 57

Describe the possible effects of honey bee stings on humans and able to recommend suitable first aid treatment

Answer 57

Possible Effects of Honey Bee Stings on Humans Normal reaction: - Swelling, redness, heat, and itchiness in the sting area. Swelling can be severe (e.g. arm swollen to elbow if stung on finger). Resolves in a few days. - Allergic reaction: Symptoms include hives, nausea, lightheadedness, stomach cramps, vomiting, diarrhea, low blood pressure, and swelling in areas other than the sting site. Seek medical care if suspected. - Anaphylactic reaction: Life-threatening. Includes swelling of mouth/throat, shortness of breath, difficulty swallowing, shock. Occurs within minutes. Requires immediate epinephrine injection and emergency medical treatment. - Toxic reaction: Possible with numerous stings. Average adult can tolerate over 1100 stings, but 500 stings can kill a child. First Aid Treatment: - Remove stinger by scraping with a credit card or knife. - Don't squeeze venom sac. - Clean sting site with soap and water. - Apply ice pack for 10 minutes on, 10 minutes off to reduce swelling and pain. - Give oral antihistamine (e.g. diphenhydramine) for mild allergic symptoms. - Seek immediate medical care if stung in mouth/throat, signs of allergic reaction, or numerous stings. - Epinephrine auto-injector is needed for severe allergies. - Loosen clothing and remove tight jewelry around sting site. - Keep affected area still to limit venom spread.

Question 58

Elementary description of the annual cycle of work in the apiary

Answer 58

Winter (December - February): - Clean, mend, replace, and store equipment - Check food levels and feed if necessary - Scrape burr comb off spare hive parts and queen excluders - Paint the outside of hives with preservative - Make up frames and organize equipment Spring (March - May): - The winter cluster breaks up, winter bees die off, queen starts laying heavily - Bees forage for pollen and nectar from early spring flowers like hazel, crocus, willow, pears, plums - Critical time as brood rearing increases but forage is still limited - Heft hives to check weight of stores, feed if light Prepare for swarm prevention by making up extra equipment Summer (June - August): - Main honey flow, add supers as needed - Swarm control, monitor for queen cells - Harvest honey, extract and bottle - Monitor for pests and diseases Fall (September - November): - Remove supers, extract and bottle remaining honey - Prepare hives for winter by reducing entrances, - insulating, feeding sugar syrup or fondant - Varroa treatment, if needed - Scrape, clean and store equipment

Question 59

Describe the preparation of sugar syrup and how and when to feed bees

Answer 59

Preparing Sugar Syrup: - Use white granulated sugar (1 kg sugar to 630 ml water or 2 lb sugar to 1 pt water). - Do not use brown or raw sugars due to impurities. - Mix with hot or warm water, stirring regularly to remove air bubbles and dissolve all crystals. - The syrup should be clear and pale straw-colored when fully dissolved. When to Feed Bees: - Feed in the fall to replace honey removed as a crop or to supplement what remains. - Feed in the spring if bees are short of stores at the spring inspection. How to Feed Bees: - Use a contact feeder for thin syrup in the spring. In extreme cases, spray bees with a thin sugar syrup solution and fill an empty comb with syrup.

Question 60

Aware of the need to add supers and the timing of the operation

Answer 60

Timing: - Add supers in early spring when major nectar-producing flowers start blooming, typically April-June in most U.S. regions - Rarely needed in March, except in warm climates like Florida Reasons to Add Supers: - Prevent swarming by providing more space for a rapidly growing colony - Allow bees to store excess nectar in supers for honey harvest - Wider spacing between supers allows bees to draw deeper comb cells How to Add Supers: - Add empty supers below the brood nest to discourage swarming - Use either medium or deep supers, depending on preference - Monitor colony strength and add supers as needed based on available space and nectar flow

Question 61

Aware of the dangers of robbing and how robbing can be avoided

Answer 61

Dangers of Robbing: - Spreads diseases like American foulbrood between colonies - Causes fighting and death of bees at the hive entrance - Can lead to a colony being robbed out completely of its honey stores Prevention Tips: - Feed bees in the evening when fewer scouts are active - Reduce hive entrances to make them easier to defend - Use robbing screens on hive entrances to allow bees to exit but not enter - Keep harvested honey and open hives covered to reduce scent and access - Ensure honey extraction facilities are bee-tight with no cracks or holes - Tape up any cracks or gaps in old equipment for 3 days to prevent robbing

Question 62

Describe a method used to clear honey bees from supers

Answer 62

To clear bees from honey supers using a trapezoidal bee escape board: - Place the escape board between the super(s) and brood chamber, with the escape pointing down. - If the colony is very strong or still bringing in nectar, add an extra super above the escape board to give the bees more space to clear into. - After 24-48 hours, the majority of bees should have moved down through the escape and into the brood chamber. - Remove the cleared supers and replace the roof. - The escape board can be left in place for the bees to continue clearing out any remaining stragglers.

Question 63

Describe the process of extracting honey from combs and a method of straining and bottling of honey suitable for a small-scale beekeeper, including hygiene

Answer 63

Extracting Honey from Combs: - Uncap the sealed honey cells using an uncapping fork or knife to remove the wax cappings - Place the uncapped frames in a honey extractor and spin to remove the honey from the comb using centrifugal force - The honey collects at the bottom of the extractor and can be drained out through the honey gate Straining and Bottling Honey: - Strain the extracted honey through a 400-micron mesh strainer to remove wax, debris and air bubbles - Allow the strained honey to settle for 2-3 days in a warm, closed container to allow any remaining particles to rise to the top - Carefully bottle the clear honey from the bottom of the settling tank, avoiding the layer of foam and wax at the top - Ensure all equipment is thoroughly cleaned and sterilized before use to maintain honey quality and safety - Store bottled honey in a cool, dark place to prevent crystallization and maintain flavor

Question 64

Aware of the various web based resources relating to beekeeping such as BBKA and Beebase

Answer 64

BBKA (British Beekeepers Association): - Offers a wide range of resources and information to support existing BBKA members and Associations - Sells various resources like Special Issues to help learn about bees and beekeeping BeeBase (National Bee Unit): - Provides help and guidance on a wide range of issues and practical topics for beekeepers in the Leaflets, Guides and Videos section - Archives contributions to publications like BeeCraft, BBKA news, WBKA news and Bee Farmer magazine on the Articles page - Offers a searchable Media Gallery with freely downloadable images under Crown copyright - Provides information on disease incidence, trends, colony losses, import/export statistics in the Diseases and Pests section

Question 65

Elementary description of swarming in a honey bee colony

Answer 65

Definition: - Swarming is a natural process by which a honeybee colony reproduces - The old queen leaves the hive with some of the bees to find a new home Timing: - Swarming mainly occurs during spring, from April through June Process: - The colony prepares to swarm by caring for new queen cells - The old queen leaves the hive with about half the worker bees - The swarm clusters on a nearby object while scouts search for a new nest site - Once a suitable site is found, the swarm flies there and establishes a new colony Reasons: - Swarming is the colony's natural way to reproduce and establish new colonies - It occurs when the colony becomes overcrowded and the queen runs out of space to lay eggs Importance: - Swarming is a natural process that ensures the survival and spread of the species - It allows the colony to reproduce and establish new colonies in new locations

Question 66

Elementary account of one method of swarm control

Answer 66

Pagden's Artificial Swarm Objective: Prevent swarming by splitting the colony into two parts: - Queen and flying bees - Brood and nurse bees Method: - Locate the queen and place her on a frame with some brood and flying bees in a new brood box. Add frames of foundation or drawn comb. - Place this new brood box on the original hive's location. - Move the original hive to a new location, rotating the entrance 180°. - The flying bees will return to the new brood box on the original site, creating a new colony with the queen. - The moved hive will be depleted of flying bees and less likely to swarm. Nurse bees will emerge to care for the brood. - After 21 days, the moved hive will have no sealed brood. Remove any queen cells and unite the two colonies if desired.

Question 67

Describe how to take a honey bee swarm and how to hive it

Answer 67

Prepare equipment: - Obtain a swarm catching box (e.g. cardboard box with mesh ventilation) - Have a light colored sheet or tarp ready - Bring protective clothing and a bee brush Locate the swarm: - Swarms typically cluster on a tree branch or other structure near the original hive - Approach the swarm calmly and quietly Capture the swarm: - Position the swarm box under the cluster - Shake or brush the bees into the box, aiming to capture the queen - Close the box most of the way, leaving a small gap for stragglers Transport the swarm: - Leave the box near the swarm until evening when most bees have entered - Move the box to the apiary in the evening when bees are settled Hive the swarm: - Prepare a new hive with frames of foundation or drawn comb - Shake the bees from the box into the hive entrance - Close up the hive and leave undisturbed for a few days Monitor the swarm: - Check the hive after a week to ensure the queen is laying eggs - Continue to monitor the colony's progress and provide adequate space

Question 68

Describe the signs of a queenless colony and how to test if a colony is queenless

Answer 68

Signs of a Queenless Colony: - Lack of eggs, followed by lack of young brood and then absence of brood entirely - Bees may store nectar and pollen in brood frames as they know there is no other use for it - Bees may appear irritated, nervous, and make a high-pitched whine combined with a low roar - Foragers may spread their wings in a "K" formation and walk around near the entrance before flying off to forage - Presence of hatched queen cells with no other signs of a queen (could indicate a virgin queen) How to Test for Queenlessness: - Wait 2-5 days and then check for emergency queen cells on a marked frame of open brood from another queen right colony - If no queen cells are seen, the colony may not be queenless - As a last resort, introduce a frame of eggs and larvae from a queenright colony - if queenless, the bees should raise queen cells

Question 69

Describe the signs of laying workers and of a drone laying queen

Answer 69

Signs of Laying Workers: - Patchy drone brood in worker cells - Multiple eggs per cell, often on the sides of the cell instead of the bottom - Eggs laid in a random, scattered pattern rather than a normal brood pattern - Eggs sometimes laid on top of pollen stores - Difficult to find the actual laying workers since there are many of them Signs of a Drone Laying Queen: - Lays eggs in a normal brood pattern, one per cell - Eggs hatch into drones that don't quite fit in worker cells, so the brood looks knobby and rough on the surface - May have enough pheromone to keep workers from laying - Arises when a queen runs out of sperm or fails to mate properly

Question 70

Describe a simple method of queen introduction

Answer 70

- Remove the existing queen from the colony about 48 hours before introducing the new queen. - Check thoroughly for any virgin queens or queen cells in the colony. Destroy any found. - Prepare the queen cage for introduction by removing the plastic tab covering the candy plug at one end. - Place the queen cage candy end down between the center frames of the brood nest. Use a cocktail stick through the top tab to keep the cage in place. - Do not disturb the colony for at least 2 weeks to allow the queen to be accepted and start laying. - The bees will gradually chew through the candy plug over 1-2 days, releasing the queen into the colony. - This gradual release allows the workers to get used to the new queen's pheromones and accept her

Question 71

Describe one method of uniting colonies and precautions to be taken

Answer 71

Method: - Prepare the colony to be united (the one without the desired queen) by loosening all hive parts and removing any brace comb from the bottom of the frames, preferably earlier in the day. - Remove the queen you do not wish to keep from the colony being united. - In the evening when bees have stopped flying, remove the crown board from the receiving colony and lay a sheet of newspaper directly over all the frames of the brood box. - Place the prepared colony to be united directly over the newspaper-covered frames of the receiving colony. Cover the united hive and leave it alone for at least 2 days.

Question 72

Describe the appearance of healthy brood, sealed and unsealed

Answer 72

Unsealed Brood: - Larvae are pearly white in color - Larvae are curled in the bottom of the cell in a "C" shape - Larvae are fed by nurse bees and appear well-fed, with a shiny appearance - Larvae are evenly distributed across the comb, not in a "pepperpot" pattern Sealed Brood: - Cappings are slightly convex and light brown in color - Cappings are smooth and uniform in appearance - Cappings are not sunken or perforated - Drone brood cappings are slightly more raised and darker than worker brood

Question 73

Reasons for good apiary hygiene

Answer 73

- Prevents the spread of pests and diseases - Reduces the risk of American Foul Brood (AFB) and European Foul Brood (EFB) - Ensures healthy bees and apiary - Prevents cross-contamination between colonies and apiaries - Maintains cleanliness and tidiness in the apiary - Reduces harbour areas for pests and disease - Ensures food safety for honey production - Supports overall bee health and well-being

Question 74

Reasons for regular brood comb replacement

Answer 74

- Combs become damaged over time. - Used combs may contain the causative organisms of many bee diseases, such as EFB, AFB, and Nosema. - Used combs can harbor pesticides and other chemicals. - Regular replacement helps maintain apiary hygiene and prevents the buildup of disease-causing agents. - The National Bee Unit advises that brood comb should not be used for more than three years and should not be reused in different colonies

Question 75

Describe the signs of the bacterial diseases American Foul Brood (AFB)

Answer 75

- Irregular, spotty brood pattern with a mixture of capped and uncapped cells - Sunken, discolored (dark brown), perforated or greasy-looking cell cappings - Decaying larvae that rope out to 30mm or more when a matchstick is inserted and removed from the cell - Dried larvae (scales) that adhere tightly to the bottom of the cell and are difficult for bees to remove - Foul, rotten odor resembling spoiled fish or glue in advanced stages of infection - Protruding pupal tongues in rare cases - Moisture on sunken sealed brood cells as larvae decompose

Question 76

Describe the signs of European Foul Brood (EFB)

Answer 76

- Patchy brood with uncapped cells scattered irregularly - Sunken and perforated capping - Larvae appear curled upwards in the cell - Larvae change from pearly white to yellow, brown, and semi-liquid - Larvae appear 'molten' in the cell - Larvae die as 4th or 5th instars, 1-2 days before pupation - Infected colonies may have an ammonia-like or sour smell - Larvae dehydrate and form a dark brown scale that adheres loosely to the cell - In severe cases, a large percentage of brood is affected, weakening the colony

Question 77

Describe the signs of the fungal disease Chalk Brood

Answer 77

- Larvae infected with chalkbrood turn a vivid white that is much whiter and "chalky" in appearance than the colour of healthy brood - Infected larvae have a furry surface due to the fungal strands growing on the dead larvae - Chalkbrood infected larvae dry out over time and become hard chalky lumps called "mummies" - Mummies are mostly white, often with yellow heads, and some turn partially or completely grey or black - The colour change to grey or black is the result of fruiting bodies, which produce the fungal spores - Chalkbrood mummies are often removed by house bees and are sometimes found either on the bottom board or in front of the entrance of the hive - Combs with heavy infections of chalkbrood will rattle when the mummies are sufficiently dry - At this stage the mummies can easily be removed just by shaking the comb

Question 78

Describe the signs of the viral disease Sac brood

Answer 78

- Infected larvae turn dark brown or black - Dead larvae are typically found in a sac-like structure - Dead larvae are often covered in a white, fungal-like growth - Infected larvae may be twisted or curled - Infected larvae may be found in cells that are not capped - Cells may be uncapped or have a sunken appearance - Dead larvae may be removed by worker bees, leaving empty cells - Infected larvae may be found in cells that are not capped - Cells may be uncapped or have a sunken appearance Dead larvae may be removed by worker bees, leaving empty cells

Question 79

Differences between AFB and EFB

Answer 79

- EFB larvae are curled upwards, while AFB larvae die after capping - EFB scales adhere loosely, while AFB scales adhere tightly to the cell EFB ropiness test: thread < 1.5 cm, AFB: thread 3-5 cm

Question 80

Describe methods for detecting and monitoring the presence of varroa (a mite)

Answer 80

Alcohol Wash Test: Collect 300 bees from the brood nest, wash them in 75% rubbing alcohol or methylated spirits three times. This method can remove over 90% of external Varroa mites. Sugar Shake Test: Dust adult bees with pure icing sugar, which causes mites to fall off into the sugar where they are easily seen. Drone Uncapping: Uncap drone brood cells, as up to 85% of Varroa mites can be found within these cells.

Question 81

Describe varroa's effect on the colony including awareness of the effect of associated viruses

Answer 81

Effect on colony: - Varroa mites feed on the hemolymph (blood) of adult bees and developing brood, weakening and deforming them - Severe infestations can lead to "Varroosis" - bees with stunted abdomens, deformed wings, dead pupae, and rotting remains - Uncontrolled Varroa populations ultimately cause colony collapse and death Associated viruses: - Varroa mites are vectors for several honey bee viruses - Before Varroa, these viruses were minor bee health issues - Combined Varroa and virus infections have damaging effects - Varroa-transmitted Deformed Wing Virus is the #1 threat to managed honey bees

Question 82

Aware of acarine (a mite) and nosema (a fungus) and their effect upon the colony

Answer 82

Acarine (Tracheal Mites) Symptoms: - Often no outward signs, but colony may not build up properly in spring - Bees crawling or trembling by hive entrance, though this can have other causes - Shortened lifespan of overwintering bees, leading to "spring dwindling" Diagnosis: - Microscopic examination of trachea required to confirm presence - Obtain sample of 30 bees, preferably crawling bees unable to fly within 3m of hive - Mites usually found in main thoracic trachea of bees Effects on Colony: - Infestation over 30% in winter likely leads to colony death - Shortens lifespan of overwintering bees, causing "spring dwindling" May interact synergistically (combine) with viruses and other parasites like varroa to have more profound effects Nosema Symptoms: - Slow colony buildup in spring is only observable symptom - Dysentery and mortality in front of hives not common with N. ceranae Diagnosis: - Microscopic examination of abdomens of older adult bees required - Collect sample of 30 bees leaving for cleansing flights - Nosema spores appear as translucent, greenish, rice-shaped bodies Effects on Colony: - Shortens lifespan of infected bees - Reduces brood rearing and honey production - May interact with certain viruses to cause more damage

Question 83

Describe ways of controlling varroa using integrated pest management techniques

Answer 83

Monitoring: - Monitor mite levels 3-4 times per year using sticky inserts, open mesh floors, or uncapping drone brood - Aim to keep mite populations below 1000 mites per colony, lower for small colonies Prevention: - Maintain strong, healthy colonies to better tolerate mites - Breed for Varroa-resistant traits in honey bees Cultural Controls: - Drone brood removal to trap mites - Brood interruption techniques like queen caging or trapping comb to disrupt mite reproduction Mechanical Controls: - Screened bottom boards to increase mite fall - Swarming management to reduce mite levels Biological Controls: - Identify and utilize natural enemies of Varroa mites Chemical Controls: - Use organic acids like oxalic or formic acid when brood is absent - Rotate miticides to prevent resistance - Apply treatments based on economic thresholds, not calendar dates

Question 84

Aware of the current legislation regarding notifiable diseases and pests of honey bees

Answer 84

Notifiable Diseases: - American foulbrood (AFB) - European foulbrood (EFB) Notifiable Pests: - Asian hornet (Vespa velutina) - Small hive beetle (SHB) - Tropilaelaps mites Legislation: - The Bees Act 1980 - The Bee Diseases and Pests Control (England and Wales) Order 2006 Reporting: - Suspected cases must be reported to the National Bee Unit (NBU) or local bee inspectors. - Failure to report is an offence. Resources: - BeeBase for beekeeping advice and information - National Bee Unit (NBU) for guidance on notifiable pests and diseases.

Question 85

Aware of whom to contact to verify disease and advise on treatment

Answer 85

fI you suspect your honey bees have a notifiable disease like American Foulbrood (AFB) or European Foulbrood (EFB), you should contact the following: - The National Bee Unit (NBU) of the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA) - Your local Bee Inspector, who is part of the NBU The NBU and Bee Inspectors are responsible for: - Verifying the presence of notifiable diseases through inspection and diagnosis - Advising beekeepers on appropriate treatment and management of diseases - Enforcing regulations around notifiable diseases like AFB and EFB

Question 86

Able to describe how comb can be stored to prevent wax moth damage

Answer 86

To prevent wax moth damage when storing drawn comb: - Freeze the comb at 0°F (-18°C) for at least 24-48 hours to kill all life stages of wax moths - Allow the frozen comb to thaw in a wax moth-free room until completely dry before storing - Store the frames in tightly sealed bags or containers to exclude wax moth adults - Maximize light and ventilation in the storage area, such as by hanging frames from the ceiling or storing supers 1 inch apart - Avoid storing comb in dark, warm, poorly ventilated areas or tightly sealed trash bags which attract wax moths - Periodically clean Varroa inserts and replace combs regularly to reduce wax moth infestations

Question 87

Describe how mice and other pests can be excluded from the hives in winter

Answer 87

- Mice, voles, and shrews can enter hives in winter and cause damage by chewing comb and frames, and leaving droppings and urine - Shrews eat the innards of bees, leaving behind hollow exoskeletons, and can take a significant toll on the bee population over winter - Reducing the hive entrance to 6.35 to 12.7 mm prevents mice from entering while still allowing bees to fly - Placing the hive 40 to 60 cm off the ground and using wire netting around the hive can prevent skunks from scratching at the entrance - Commercial mouse excluders typically use a 9.5 mm diameter circular opening - Some beekeepers use 12.7 mm openings, claiming it provides adequate ventilation and allows bees to remove dead bees and bring in pollen in early spring 6.35 mm openings may be too small and make it difficult for bees to pass through - Wooden entrance reducers made from 3.8 cm wide wood can be effective - Metal excluders with drilled holes are also commonly used