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My Sailing > Basic Vocabulary > Flashcards

Basic Vocabulary Flashcards

1
Q

Close Hauled

A

Sailing as close to the No Go Zone as possible, normally about 45 deg from the direction of the wind

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2
Q

Beam Reach

A
  • Sailing perpendicular to the wind, wind coming over the side of the boat
  • Sailing at best speed
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3
Q

Sheeting a sail

A

Pulling it in

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4
Q

When you’re sailing upwind

A
  • Sheet in the sails all the way

* “Steer to the jib” to achieve smooth air flow

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5
Q

Steps as you’re sailing downwind on broad reach

A
  • Watch jib for an accidental jibe where boom swings across boat, jib will go limp and start to cross
  • Sails let all the way out, perpendicular to the wind, not the boat
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6
Q

Points of sail

A

Close hauled, beam reach, broad reach

Close reach is in between close hauled and beam reach

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7
Q

Sailing on starboard (port) tack

A

Wind blowing over starboard (port) side of boat

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8
Q

Heading Up

A

Turning towards the wind

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9
Q

Bearing Away

A

Heading away from the wind

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10
Q

Movement of the tiller as you’re turning the boat

A

Tiller is pushed in the opposite direction that you want to the boat to turn, rudder swings other way, water pushes against rudder with pressure on the front, causing the boat to turn

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11
Q

Tacking

A
  • Switching from zig to zag
  • Turning the bow through the wind from one side of the No Go zone to the other
  • Sails will cross the boat
  • made at 90 deg angles
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12
Q

In Irons

A
  • Getting stuck in the No Go zone

* Sails are luffing, you’re stalled, rudder not working

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13
Q

Getting out of Irons

A
  • Sheet in jib so it fills with air and it starts to move the boat backward
  • when it’s moving backwards, move tiller in the same direction to increase speed
  • When you’re on a beam reach, release the jib and trim both sheets in on other side, straighten the tiller
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14
Q

Jibing

A
  • Wind crosses over the stern, vs a tack when wind crosses over the bow
  • Boom swings over boat
  • Sheet in the mainsail before stern crosses wind to control it, then let it out quickly
  • made a less than 90 deg angles
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15
Q

Uncontrolled jibe

A
  • Wind directly behind you, jib is limp and started to cross
  • Mainsail has not been sheeted in
  • To prevent jibe, head up, back to original course
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16
Q

Beating

A

Sailing upwind with a series of tacks

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17
Q

Wind indicators

A
  • Flag
  • Smokestack
  • Boats on mooring will point directly into wind
  • Ripples on surface
  • Look at how other boats have their sails trimmed
  • Masthead fly - indicator on top of mast
  • Wind is described by where it comes from
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18
Q

Halyard

A
  • A line to raise and lower sail
  • Attached to top corner of sail
  • Jib halyard runs over an internal pulley (sheave) in the front of mast
  • Main halyard runs over the sheave on the back side of the top of mast
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19
Q

Edges of Sail and where they’re attached

A

Bottom = foot (foot of mainsail is attached to the boom), foot of jib is unattached

Forward edge = luff (luff of jib attached to forestay by hanks, luff of mainsail is attached to mast)

Back edge - leech - not attached but has battens for support

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20
Q

Corners of Sails and where they’re attached

A

Tack - lower forward corner, where the sail is attached to the rig

Clew - lower back corner. Jib sheets are attached to the clew of the jib, clew of the mainsail is attached to the outhaul to keep it taught on the boom

Head - top corner, attached to the halyard on both sails

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21
Q

Sailing in the Groove and the 3 references

A

The sailing angle where you’re making the best progress “windward” (toward the wind). References are your speed, the angle of heel, and the telltale on the jib

Sailing too close to the wind will cause sails to luff, and the windward telltale to flutter. Heading back away to fill the sails back up again

Sailing too far away from the windward direction will cause you to heel too much, and the leeward telltale will flutter

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22
Q

“Hard a lee!”

A

“Tacking!”

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23
Q

Heaving To

A

Holds your position with the sails and rudder countering each other

Hold the boat at a “stop”

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24
Q

Lines when you’re tying up at the dock

A

Bow and Stern lines - attached to cleat on dock from each end of the boat. Keep boat close to dock, but doesn’t prevent backward/forward motion

Spring lines - prevent backward/forward motion. Referred to according to where they go from the cleat on the boat. “Aft Spring line” (or Forward Quarter Spring line”) goes from a forward cleat on the boat back towards a cleat on the dock

Always secured with a cleat hitch

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25
Q

Cunningham

A

system used to add tension to the luff in the sail. It changes the shape to affect how much power it give you

Light wind = need more power = want fuller sail shape = Ease the Cunningham, Ease the Outhaul

Strong wind = want to control power = want flatter shape = Tighten the Cunningham, Tighten the Outhaul

Ease Cunningham when heading downwind to get baggier sail, tighten it heading upwind

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26
Q

Traveler

A

Track that controls sideways movement of the mainsail

Along with mainsheet and boom vang control height of boom and leech tension in sail

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27
Q

Wind shifts - forcing you to head up or bear away

A

“Lift” - Wind shift that comes towards your stern that forces you to head up
“Header” - Wind shift coming towards your bow that forces you to bear away

Backing - counterclockwise shift in wind

Veering - clockwise shift in wind
Page 54

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28
Q

Bowline

A

Puts a non slipping loop at the end of a line

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29
Q

Figure 8 Knot

A

Stopper Knot

Tied on the end of a line to prevent it from slipping through a fitting

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30
Q

Square Knot

A
  • Used only for sail lashings

* Can be difficult to untie

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31
Q

Sheet Bend

A
  • Used to tie two different size lines together
  • Looks like a bowline
  • Secure, easy to untie
32
Q

Clove Hitch

A
  • Used to tie a line to an object

* Not very secure

33
Q

Round Turn and Two Half Hitches

A

Uses a loop to secure a line to an object

34
Q

Stand On Vessel vs Give Way Vessel

A

Stand On Vessel - maintain course and speed, less maneuverable craft

Give Way Vessel - more maneuverable, give indication of change of course obvious and early

35
Q

Right of Way - Starboard Tack vessel vs Port Tack Vessel

A

Boats coming from opposite directions

Starboard tack has right of way over Port tack

Vessel on Port tack is the give way vessel

36
Q

Right of Way - Leeward Vessel vs Windward Vessel

A 
Boat traveling in same direction
Windward Vessel (upwind) is the give way vessel and should yield to the the leeward vessel by steering behind it
37
Q

Soundings

A

Water Depths - indicated on nav charts

Fathom = 6 ft

38
Q

Channel Buoys

A

Green - Cans - Odd numbers
Red - Nuns - Even numbers

Red Right Return

Diamond shape on chart

39
Q

Ways of shortening Sail - powerful wind

A

Reefing - partially lowering the mainsail to reduce the area, should be accomplished while on close reach or Hove To with mainsail luffing

Lowering the Jib - will need to compensate by steering with the tiller pulled slightly away from the mainsail because the boat will not be in balance with only the mainsail up

Lowering the Mainsail - will need to compensate by steering with the tiller pushed slightly toward the mainsail because the boat will not be in balance with only the mainsail up

pg 74

40
Q

Steps during anchoring

A

*Take down and store the jib
*Anchor line is called a rode
Rode should be coiled on foredeck so it will run freely
*Sail on beam reach until you are 3-6 boat lengths of where you want to drop anchor
*When you are directly downwind of where you want to drop it, head into wind
*As the boat comes to a stop, carefully lower anchor
*After it hits the bottom, pay out line as you drift back
*When you reach ideal spot, cleat off rode, ensure it’s holding, and lower mainsail

41
Q

Puffs / Lulls

A

Show up on water as dark moving patches
Increase in wind speed and or direction for short duration

Lulls - smoother areas on water , less wind strength

42
Q

King Spoke

A

Reference point on the steering wheel for when the rudder is centered

43
Q

By the Lee

A

Sailing on a run with the wind coming over the same side of the boat as the boom

Indication - jib will start to luff, watch for boom to cross. Can correct by sailing back toward the wind

“Turn tiller to boom to avoid doom” - turns you so you’re more on a direct run

44
Q

Helm’s a Lee

A

Tacking

45
Q

Best angle for anchor

A

As close to horizontal as possible, so the flukes a grab hold

46
Q

Rode

A

Line or chain attached from the boat to the anchor

47
Q

Fairlead

A

A fitting that guides a jib sheet back to the cockpit or along the deck

48
Q

Tides vs current

A

Tides - vertical motion / Current - horizontal motion

In a coastal area…when tides rise, current flood, when tides fall, currents ebb

Current will run faster through narrow openings

Buoys will lean in the direction of the current

49
Q

Ahead, Astern, Abeam

A

Ahead, behind, to either side

50
Q

LOA
Draft
LWL
Freeboard

A

Length overall - tip to stern

Distance from waterline to the deepest part of the boat (bottom of keel)

Load waterline length-from the points where the bow and stern come out of water

From the waterline to where the deck and the side of the boat meet

51
Q

Topsides

A

Outer sides of the boat between the water line and the edge of the deck - “freeboard” measurement

52
Q

Headstay vs Forestay

A

Standing rigging

Forward stay going to top of mast vs not going all the way to the top

53
Q

Shrouds and spreaders

A

Shrouds - from top to edge of deck

Spreaders hold them out towards the top of the mast

54
Q

Running rigging

A

Halyards and sheets attached to sails

55
Q

Backing the sail

A

Physically holding the job out against the wind to get the boat moving

Back the jib to the same side you eventually want to be tacking on

56
Q

Controlling heel

A

Ease mainsheet

57
Q

Hardening up

A

Turning towards the wind

58
Q

Maintaining speed

A

Keeping airflow “attached”, flowing evenly and smoothly over sail

Poor sail trim will cause it to become “detached” and turbulence occurs due to angle airflow makes with sail (angle of attack)

The smaller the angle, the longer the wind will maintain contact with the sails surface as it makes its way from the luff to the leech of the sail

59
Q

Bernoulli’s principle

A

As velocity increases, pressure decreases, creating lift at right angles to the sail in the leeward direction. Changed concept of wind pushing to sail pulling

60
Q

Adjustment to keep airflow moving smoothly

A

Ease the sail until starts to luff, the trim it in just enough to stop the luff

61
Q

If angle if attack is too wide

A

You’re going to run out of lift, causing boat to heel over and slow down. Easing the mainsail out will decrease the angle and reduce the

62
Q

Circulation effect

A

As wind passes over the sail it spilts, with more velocity over the leeward side than the windward side

63
Q

The Slot

A

The space between the windward side of the jib and the leeward side of the main

As air passes over the windward side of the jib, it bends and pushes air to the leeward side of the main

Slot acts like an accelerator, so there’s increased velocity in the slot, which increases suction

The jib works to help improve the angle of attack on the mainsail. Directs air efficiently

When you’re sailing upwind, always strive to keep the slot open. If you ease the mainsail out before the jib, it will decrease the size of the slot and improperly bend the wind. Always ease the jib first

64
Q

Heeling

A

More hull in the water, causes friction which slows you down

Sideways lift is stronger than forward pull

Sail area at the top of mast masked boat heel more, that’s why reefing helps

65
Q

On a run…jib and lift

A

Jib is ineffective, blocked by the main, often rolled up to prevent it from flapping

No forward pull, only push

Wind is bending around both sides of sail and turning into turbulence on the leeward side

66
Q

Telltales on jib

A

Windward side fluttering- you’re heading to much into the wind, or your jib need to be trimmed in

Leeward side fluttering - you’re steering too far away from wind, or your jib need to be let out

When sailing, trim the jib in, and then ease it out until both telltales are flowing together

67
Q

Sailing wing and wing

A

When sailing on a run, pulling the jib over to the other side so wind is pushing both sails

Can hold it out manually, or rig a pole between mast and clew of jib to hold it out

Helps increase normally slower speed on a run

68
Q

Jib Leads

A

Always change jib not in use first, then tack and change other one

When block is too far forward, most of the force on the jib sheet is down causing foot of jib to be too loose and leech too tight (bottomof the sail balloons out and starts to luff)

When block is too far aft on track, most of the force on the jib sheet is back/ horizontal * causing foot of jib to be too tight and leech too loose (top* of the sail becomes too loose and starts to luff)

Head into wind. If top luffs first, move block forward, if bottom luffs first, move block aft.

Jib should flutter along full length of luff

69
Q

Sail design terms

A

Chord - distance from leech to luff
Camber - belly formed when filled with wind
Draft - distance from chord to deepest part of the camber. Controlled by the outhaul (lower third) and backstay (top 2/3) on mainsail.
Cunningham and halyard control the draft backward or forward

70
Q

Weather helm

A

A feeling that the boat wants to head up and towards the wind

71
Q

Apparent wind

A

Heading on a close hauled course - apparent wind is more than true wind

On a reach or a run, apparent wind is less then when close hauled

72
Q

Apparent wind on a run

A

Apparent wind is less, traveling with you

Apparent wind is always forward if the true wind unless true wind is dead ahead or astern

On a run, sail at slight angle to gain more speed and avoid an accidental jibe

73
Q

Lee and weather helm

A

Balance of boat - well balanced if it doesn’t turn when you let go of tiller under sail
When letting go of tiller under sail if it bears toward windward, you’re feeling weather helm. If it turns leeward, you’re feeling lee helm

74
Q

Center of Effort and Center of Lateral Resistance

A

COE - combined geometric center where force is exerted on sail system

CLR - combined center of forces of underwater areas- bottom of helm, keel and rudder

Boat is in balance when the two are aligned

The two will resist each other

Weather helm will occur when CE moves aft of CLR - sailing with just the main- CE concentrated further back, boat turns toward wind

Lee helm will occur if you sail with just your jib, because CE is fore of CLR - boat will turn away from wind - no benefits

75
Q

Center of bouyancy

Center of gravity

A

COB - center of all the water your hull displaces, will move as you heel

COG - remains in one spot - on the keel

Boat upright - they’re in line
As heels, they move apart. COG is pulled down, COG is pushed up

If you heel so much that spreaders are in the water, sails are ineffective. Quickly take down or completely luff sails to allow keel to right the boat

Boat that always rights itself has positive stability
COB and COG - largest distance

76
Q

Displacement boat

A

Heavy, deep keel
Hull speed - maximum speed out of wind power
Hull speed in knots - 1.34x sq root of LWL in ft

Keelboat can not travel faster than the wave it creates -

Higher waves have longer wavelength and boat will go faster

My Sailing (1 decks)

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