Austria Flashcards

1
Q

Who produces Unendilch and what is the variety?

A

Fx Pichler, Riesling

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2
Q

Klosterneuberger Mostwaage (Austria)

A

Scale used to measure must weight

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3
Q

Which Austrian wine region has its own classification system? Describe the three tiers.

A

Wachau
Steinfeder 10- 10.7% ABV light bodied dry wines
Federspiel- Under 12% ABV medium bodied dry wines.
Smaragd- Over 12% ABV full bodied dry wines

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4
Q

Describe the cause and effect of the Austrian wine scandal of 1985

A

Producers were accused of adding Diethylene Glycol to their wines, destroyed the industry- today, Austria has some of the strictest laws in the world to protect their wine and image

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5
Q

Name three wine regions with Niererosterreich (lower Austria)

A

Carnuntum, Donauland, Kamptal, Kremstal, Thermen Region, Traisental, Wachau, Weinviertal

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6
Q

What is the most widely planted grape variety in Austria?

A

Gruner Veltliner

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7
Q

It is illegal to add Sussreserve to Pradikat wines in Austria, true or false?

A

True

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8
Q

What is Ausbuch?

A

Wine made by adding the must of late harvest grapes to botrytis affected grapes- from the village of Rust, in Neusidelersee- Hugeland (Burgenland)

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9
Q

What is the significance of the Heurige culture in Austria?

A

Drinking “this years” wines that has just been fermented served in taverns/ Inns/ Bars/ etc these places are usually owned by the wine producer.

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10
Q

Zweigelt is a crossing of which varieties?

A

Austria’s most popular dark berried grape. Blaufrankisch crossed with St- Laurent

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11
Q

What three classifications are there for white from Wachau, and what are their corresponding min/ max alcohol levels?

A

Steinfeder: 11.5% max
Federspeil: 11.5- 12.5% max
Smaragd: min 12.5%

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12
Q

Where is we in? Why is it unique?

A

Vienna, Austria. The only wine region located within city limits of a major city.

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13
Q

What region and country are Neusiedlersee, Mittelburgenland, Neuierlersee- Hugeland located in?

A

Burgenland Region

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14
Q

3 most important subregions in Austria for quality exports of what 2 grapes?

A

Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal for Gruner Veltliner and Riesling

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15
Q

Austria
2 Additional Wine
Classification

A

Ausbuch- between BA and TBA

Strohwine- Sweet wine made from dried grapes

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16
Q

Key regions of Austria

A

Lower Austria (Niederosterreich)- White- Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Donauland

Burgenland-(red/ dessert)- Neusiedlersee, Mittelburgenland, Neusiedlersee- Hugeland

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17
Q

Austria

Key Grape Varieties

A

Black: Blaufranksich, Zweigelt
White: Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, Welshriesling

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18
Q

Climate, Soils and Weather

A

Sunny dry continental
Milder and more humid
Around Lake Neusiedl
Fewer variations in vintages

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19
Q

Where is Kamptal located?

A

Burgenland

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20
Q

What are 3 categories of the Wachau?

A

Steinfeder, Federspeil, Smaragd

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21
Q

What are the 4 main regions in Austria?

A

Lower Austria, Vienna, Burgenland, Styria

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22
Q

Where is Smargd found?

A

Wachau

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23
Q

Is chaptalisation permitted for quality wines of Austria?

A

No

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24
Q

Describe the flavours of Riesling, grown in Wachau, Kamptal, and Kremstal

A

Usually dry, quite full- bodied with ripe peachy primary fruit. Mineral flavours are common. Generally more full- bodied than Riesling from Pfalz or Alsace

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25
Q

Describe wine made from Zweigelt

A

Deep coloured reds with soft tannins and bramble fruit

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26
Q

Describe wine made from St Laurent

A

Austrian speciality that gives wines similar in character to Pinot Noir

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27
Q

Name the two additional pradikatswein levels for wine in Austria

A

Ausbuch (between BA and TBA)

Stronwein or Shifwein (bunches of grapes are laid on beds of straw for the winter to concentrate sugars)

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28
Q

What is the difference between Austrian BA and TBA?

A

Must weight of 25 degree KMW for BA and 30 degrees KMW for TBA. TBA from fully botrytised grapes.

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29
Q

What is the largest sub- district within Austria?

A

Weinvertel

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30
Q

Mittelburgenland and Sudburgenland have a reputation for making what kind of wine?

A

Spicy reds made from the Blaufrankisch grapes

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31
Q

Sudsteiermark and Susteiermark are known to produce what kind of wines?

A

High quality white wines from Chardonnay and Sav Blanc

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32
Q

Name the 3 sub regions of Steiermark?

A

Sudosteiermark
Susteiermark
Weststeiermark

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33
Q

The foremost red varietal in Burgenland

A

Blaufranksich

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34
Q

What kind of wine is Burgenland primarily known for?

A

Sweet dessert wines, namely Ausbruch

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35
Q

Which country/ style would wine be labeled Ausbruch?

A

Austria and slightly more opulent than BA

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36
Q

Name the 4 major wine regions of Austria

A
  1. lower Austria
  2. Burgenland
  3. Styria (Steiermark)
  4. Vienna (Wein)
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37
Q

The minimum ABV of a wine labelled Smaragd?

A

12% ABV

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38
Q

The minimum ABV of a wine labelled Steinfeder?

A

10.7% ABV

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39
Q

What are the levels of Pradikatswein in Austria?

A

Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerauslese, Ausbruch, Trockenbeerenauslese, Stohwein

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40
Q

Where are all Austrian vineyards located?

A

East side of country

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41
Q

What are the 4 regions?

A

Lower Austria (largest region), Burgenland (Top quality sweet wines borders Hungary), Styria, Vienna

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42
Q

What is lower Austria known for?

A

Largest region includes: Wachau, Kampstal, Kremstal, Gruner Veltliner and Riesling

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43
Q

Burgenland?

A

Along Hungarian border. Top quality sweet wines. Includes: Neusiderlersee and Neusierdersee- Hugelland (rust village) where get botrytis with fog/ mist off lake. Mittelburgenland and Sudburgenland= fine red wines from Blaufrankish

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44
Q

What three DACs produce red wines based on Blaufrankisch?

A

Mittlebjrgendland, Eisenberg and Lethaberg

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45
Q

Austrian Wine Scandal

A

1985, Dhyathelene Glycol (an ingredient in Anti- Freeze, but is harmless). Forced a clean sweep of the industry. Changed the way wine was produced. `

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46
Q

Ausbruch

A

German-language equivalent of the Hungarian Aszú, traditionally designating sweet wines made from botrytized grapes which made the reputations of tokaj and of Rust on the shores of the neusiedlersee. The methods involved historically in making Ruster Ausbruch are unknown but considerable circumstantial evidence suggests that furmint—still-dominant around Tokaj—long played a similar role in Rust, where that variety almost disappeared until a modest revival was mounted at the end of the 20th century. Ausbruch officially remains a trans-regional category of Austrian wine (stipulating botrytized grapes at a minimum must weight of 27 °kmw—equivalent to 139 °oechsle); in practice the term is widely used only in Rust, whose growers, as members of the Cercle Ruster Ausbruch, in 1991 set a lower limit of 30 °KMW. They further distinguished it from trockenbeerenauslese as having finesse and effusive fruit rather than opulence and a target alcohol level of 12%. Ruster Ausbruch wines may be made from any of the many white grapes grown in Rust, notably Chardonnay, Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, and Welschriesling, as well as occasionally (and memorably) from Furmint, or even Pinot Noir.

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47
Q

Steinfeder

A

The lightest in terms of must weight and alcohol among the trio of dry white wine categories in austria’s wachau region—specifically for unchaptalized grapes of 73 to 83 °oechsle (15 to 17 °kmw) which result in wines with no more than 11% alcohol. Consumers have been willing to pay much higher prices for the fuller-bodied wines of the other categories federspiel and smaragd, and it can be difficult to achieve attractive flavours in Wachau grapes at such low levels of potential alcohol. So Steinfeder wines today, however charming and refreshing, tend to be made only from a few comparatively cool sites or ones considered otherwise expendable, from Grüner Veltliner, and solely for local consumption. The name comes from a feathery grass species indigenous to the local vineyard terraces.

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48
Q

Federspiel

A

The middle of the three official categories of dry whites for which alcohol and minimum must weight are stipulated and that characterize Austria’s wachau—specifically from unchaptalized grapes of minimum 83 °oechsle, or 17 °kmw, and harbouring between 11 and 12.5% finished alcohol by volume. The name originates from falconry.

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49
Q

Smaragd

A

The most valuable category of white wines made from the ripest grapes on the best sites of the Wachau in austria. Alcohol levels in the unchaptalized Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings that qualify must be more than 12.5% and commonly range between 13 and 14.5%. The category is named after the green lizard that basks in the sun on the Wachau’s steep stone terraces above the River Danube.

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50
Q

Ried

A

Traditional term in austria for a vineyard site—especially if considered one of particular value—that is sometimes seen on labels just before the site name. Not unlike bricco in piemonte.

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51
Q

DAC

A

Districtus Austria Controllatus, denotes austrian appellations of origin established and regulated by grower-dominated regional wine committees and intended to define and promote a typical style and flavour profile (including specified grape varieties) for each of Austria’s growing regions. By 2014 there were nine of these. The first, weinviertel, was established in 2002 while the ninth, Wiener gemischter satz, applies to Viennese wines made from field blends or adjacent parcels of at least three varieties and was created in 2013. Kamptal, Kremstal, and Traisental DACs may be applied to both varietally labelled Riesling and Grüner Veltliner and for most there is both the basic klassik and DAC Reserve with higher minimum alcohol and, sometimes, later release. leithaberg is subdivided into red and white blends. Six DACs share the name of an official growing region while eisenberg is named for a village and vineyard site but effectively covers an entire region. DAC is one of the Austrian denominations that is classified as a pdo in eu terminology. The capital letters DAC appear on labels in immediate conjunction with its name. It is theoretically possible for growers and their committees to decide to be covered by more than one DAC. In 2014 it also remained to be seen how the wine regions to which no DAC has yet applied would elect to define themselves; the three regions are within steiermark, wachau, wagram, thermenregion, and carnuntum.

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52
Q

Pannobile

A

A name derived from the Pannonian Plain, refers to a group of nine growers in austria’s neusiedlersee region, all near the north eastern edge of the eponymous lake, and to a single prestige blended red each of them offers (from some combination of Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, and St Laurent grapes) as well as, in some cases, a white (from some combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Neuburger).

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53
Q

Wine Laws- Austria

A

1993- new laws introduced. Severe yield limits. Laws similar to Germany regarding quality levels, but minimum must weights are higher. Chaptalisation forbidden for quality wines. Categories for Pradikatswein are the same, although Austria does not have Kabinett as a category and has two different levels; Ausbruch (in between Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese) and Strohwein or Shifwein, where grapes are dried on straw over winter to concentrate flavours. Regional delimitation laws introduced more recently, and new regions are frequently being added.

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54
Q

DAC- Austria

A

Austrian equivalent of French AOC areas. Current DAC areas are Weinvertal (for Gruner Veltliner), Mittelburgenland (for Blaufrankisch), Kremstal (for Riesling and Gruner Veltliner), Kampstal (for Riesling and Gruner Veltliner) and Leithaberg (Gruner Veltliner, Weiburgunder, Chardonnay and/or Neuburger and Blaufrankisch).
Wachau also has its own classification of dry wines, ranging from Steinfeder (lighter) through Federspiel to Smaragd (the richest in extract and body).

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55
Q

Regions- Austria

A

Split further into sub regions (Weinbaugebiete) and districts (Grosslage).

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56
Q

Weinland Osterreich

A

(Niederosterreich + Burgenland) 90% total production.

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57
Q

Niederosterreich (lower Austria)

A

Largest sub region. Weinviertel DAC (the first Austrian DAC) must be fresh, fruity Gruner Veltliner with no discernible oak. Wine other styles/ varieties must be sold as Niederosterreich. Quality districts within Niederosterreich are Wachau, Kampstal and Kremstal. Good sun exposure from steep, terraced vineyards. Concentrated Gruner Veltliner and Riesling produced due to long ripening over Autumn. Complex honey and toast develop with ageing. Best Gruner Veltliners compare to finest white Burgundy. Rieslings are drier and fuller bodied than Pflaz or Alsace.

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58
Q

Burgenland

A

East of Austria, on border with Hungary. A variety of grapes and styles grown. Divided into 4 districts: Neusiedlersee, Neusiedlersee- Hugelland, Mittelburgenland and Sudburgenland

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59
Q

Neusiedlersee and Neusiedlersee- Hugelland

A

Around a large shallow lake. Autumn mists from lake and other nearby ponds encourage noble rot. High yielding vines for sweet wines planted on the plains. Noble rot happens yearly meaning prices are cheaper than equivalent wines from France or Germany. BA, TBA, Ausbruch, Eiswein and Shifwein/ Strohwein produced. Dry white and reds produced from a number of varieties on the slopes above the lake.

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60
Q

Mittelburgenland and Sudburgenland

A

South west of the lake on rolling hills. Fine reds from varietal Blaufrankisch or blends with Bordeaux varieties. Aged in new French oak.

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61
Q

Steirerland

A

(Styria) 8% of production. Southern Austria. 3 sub regions:

Weststeiermark- acidic rose wines from Blauer Wildbacher

Sudsteiermark- excellent Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc is aromatic, full bodied and suitable for cellaring. Welshriesling also produced.

Sudosteiermark- excellent Gewurtztraminer from volcanic soils. Large quantity of Welschriesling.

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62
Q

Wein

A

(Vienna) 1.5% of production

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63
Q

Bergland

A

(mountains) 0.5% of vineyard area.

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64
Q

Climate- Austria

A

Central European climate with short cold winters and long warm summers. Long autumns; manifestation of noble rot if sufficient humidity.

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65
Q

Soil- Austria

A

Lower Austria has loess, well draining, ideal for viticulture. Best wines from hill sites, loess overlaying granite. Nearer Danube are rich alluvial soils more suited to black grapes.
Northeast Burgenland, sand predominant, especially near Neusiedl, some ingrafted vines planted.
Remainder of Burgenland are hill sites with sand covering calcareous rock.
Styria has clay overlaying limestone, very hilly sites.

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66
Q

Viticulture- Austria

A

Over half of growers are part time. Very small plots handed down through generations. Present generation selling land off to medium sized growers increasing their land or grubbing up. Trend toward increasing individual size but decrease in production. Currently 51,000 ha of vines.

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67
Q

Vinification- Austria

A

Strong local market. Investment in equipment, wine education, stainless steel and new oak. Experimentation with oak and methods have led to some excess oak and high alcohol wines. Fine wines mostly consumed by local market.

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68
Q

Gruner Veltliner- Austria

A

One third of all plantings. Broad spectrum of flavours. Green apples and white pepper when young, developing honey and toast with age. Exaggerated mineral characters when grown on some soils with low yields. Limited use of oak.

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69
Q

Riesling- Austria

A

Main regions are Wachau, Kampstal and Kremstal. Dry, full bodied with rich stone fruit characters. Develop great complexity with age. Usually bottled under a single, named vineyard.

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70
Q

Welschriesling- Austria

A

Not to be confused with Riesling. Good but simple wine produced in Burgenland and the south. Susceptible to Botrytis, can make brilliant sweet wine produced in the south of Austria.

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71
Q

Blaufrankisch- Austria

A

Medium tannins, crisp acidity and a peppery, sour cherry palate. Minerality when grown on certain soils. Oak ageing softens the acidity and enhances sweet fruit flavours.

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72
Q

Zweigelt- Austria

A

Blaufrankisch and St Laurent cross. Deep colour, soft tannins and bramble fruit.

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73
Q

St Laurent- Austria

A

Austrian variety, similar characters to Pinot Noir. Blends common with international varieties.

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74
Q

Niederösterreich

A

Or Lower austria, is the state in which well over half of the country’s vineyards are situated. In it are the wine regions carnuntum, kamptal, kremstal, thermenregion, traisental, wachau, wagram, and weinviertel. Since the names Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, and Weinviertel between 2002 and 2008 became those of official dac appellations of origin reserved for wines made from Grüner Veltliner or (in the first three of these) Riesling, wines made from other varieties are labelled simply Niederösterreich, guaranteeing this name a prominence that it did not previously enjoy.

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75
Q

Weinviertel

A

A vast arc of viticulture in austria north of the Danube, extending along the borders of the czech republic, then east and south along the River March and Austria’s frontier with slovakia, its western edge abutting kamptal and wagram, and its southern fringes abutting the urban vineyards of vienna. With 16,650 ha/41,000 acres of vines, the Weinviertel is Austria’s largest official wine region, and produces more than a third of Austrian wine. Volume has gone hand in hand with modest prices and relative lack of cachet when compared with other wine regions, but it has also made the Weinviertel an indispensable feature of Austria’s passionate wine-drinking culture, and an increasing number of quality-conscious growers are carving a niche for themselves and this region among their country’s many wine sophisticates. Half of the Weinviertel’s vineyard area is planted with grüner veltliner, but that dominance came about only after the middle of the last century. In a region, this large and diverse geologically, climatically, and culturally, it is not surprising that growers have scored striking successes with many grape varieties: Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Riesling, and Zweigelt as well as Austrian specialities blauburger, Blauer portugieser, muskateller, and welschriesling, and mixed plantings of gemischter satz. Among the more important wine communities of the Weinviertel are Retz and Röschitz in the west of the region; Falkenstein, Poysdorf, and Wolkersdorf in the north-east (prominent for sekt base wine but capable of far greater distinction). Also included are a cluster of tiny villages on the edge of the Bisamberg and Vienna’s 21st District, of which the best known is Stetten, because it is home to the Weinviertel’s most prominent pioneer of ambitious quality, Roman Pfaffl.

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76
Q

Weinviertel DAC

A

Was the first Austrian dac appellation for wines from the region made from Grüner Veltliner. Those referred to as klassik must be of at least 12% alcohol and be free of botrytis and wood notes. They may be commercialized as early as 1 January following harvest. Wines from this DAC labelled Reserve must be at least 13% alcohol; are permitted to evince ‘subtle’ botrytis or wood tones, and are not approved for sale before 15 March. Other than slight differences in the adjectives used to characterize their styles, the above sets of criteria are not materially different from those governing the kamptal DAC, kremstal DAC, and traisental DAC, in all of which, however, they apply to Riesling as well. Since its inception in 2002, wines that do not qualify for the Weinviertel DAC or are not successfully submitted by their growers for inclusion may not be labelled Weinviertel but must instead be labelled niederösterreich for their state of origin. This applies most importantly to wines produced from grape varieties other than Grüner Veltliner, which represent around half of the Weinviertel’s vineyard area.

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77
Q

Kremstal

A

wine region whose 2,250 ha/5,600 acres of vines represent roughly 5% of austria’s vineyards and characterized by considerable geological and microclimatic diversity. Long considered part of the wachau, the towering rocky terraced vineyards on the region’s western edge—in particular those of the Krems-Stein suburb—segue seamlessly into those of today’s official Wachau. These include two of Austria’s greatest Riesling vineyards, the (Steiner) Hund and Pfaffenberg as well as the estimable Kögl and Wachtberg that are closer to the city of Krems proper. The valley of the diminutive River Krems incorporates only 7 km/4.3 miles of vineyards that are dominated by loess close to Krems city limits, rising to magnificent steepness upstream around Senftenberg, whose Ehrenfels, Hochäcker, and Pellingen vineyards are home to Riesling (10% of total Kremstal vineyard) and Grüner Veltliner. The eastern and north-eastern fringes of Krems are dominated by mounds of loess, anticipating the soil character and exposures of the wagram region that runs along the Danube’s left bank towards Vienna. Grüner Veltliner overwhelmingly dominates in this sector, which helps explain why it amounts to over half of the entire Kremstal vineyard area. Gneixendorf and Stratzing north of Krems (and bordering kamptal) as well as Rohrendorf and Gedersdorf to the city’s east are important wine villages in this sector. Kremstal also incorporates extensive vineyards on the Danube’s right bank, where sand and gravel from the Danube, that meandered around numerous islands until late 20th century dredging, vie with loess for vine roots’ attention. An especially diverse admixture of other varieties—including even Cabernet and Merlot from Bordeaux—colour growers’ price lists. Heading east from Mautern (in the Wachau), the villages of Furth, Palt, Oberfucha, and Tiefenfucha are dominated by the massive mountaintop Göttweig monastery—itself an important vineyard owner—while further downstream Hollenburg hugs the Danube’s shoreline and abuts traisental, to which, however, it is not assigned.

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78
Q

Kremstal DAC

A

Is the official 2007 Austrian dac appellation for Kremstal varietals Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, which together account for about two-thirds of all Kremstal vines.

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79
Q

Langenlois

A

Dominant village of Austria’s compact but bountiful kamptal growing region.

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80
Q

Wein

A

Is how the natives of Vienna refer to the austrian capital and the official wine-growing region it comprises. Vienna serves as an axis between Danubian growing regions, nowadays dominated by Grüner Veltliner but also starring Riesling, and those regions more strongly influenced by the warmth of the Pannonian-Hungarian Plain and significantly planted with red wine grapes. Just under a quarter of the metropolis’s roughly 700 ha/1,700 acres of vines are dark-skinned. Red wine production dominates the two important viticultural neighbourhoods on Vienna’s southern fringe, Oberlaa and Mauer (abutting the thermenregion), which feature Zweigelt, Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder), and smaller contingents of diverse other red wine grapes. The reputation of Vienna as an important wine-growing region, however, rests on Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, less prominently Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), along with white-grape-dominated gemischter satz. Although these old field blends have shrunk to a mere 11–12% of the city’s vineyard area, they represent a distinctive contribution to its wine-growing and drinking culture, and provide the basis for the relatively recent Wiener Gemischter Satz dac (see below). Nearly all of these field blends are dominated by or consist exclusively of white wine grapes, with older vineyards generally incorporating significant shares of Grüner Veltliner as well as vaguely Burgundian varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Neuburger. Riesling, Rotgipfler, Silvaner, Traminer, Welschriesling, Zierfandler, and unidentified vines are also frequently found. Predominantly white wine grapes, they grow mainly on either side of the Danube in the city’s north west. The Kahlenberg and Nussberg vineyards, along with sites in the nearby suburbs of Grinzing, Sievering, and Neustift—all in Vienna’s 19th District—offer a stunning panorama of the city thanks to the elevation and sunny exposure that, along with attendant breezes and soils typically rich in fossils and limestone, commend them as high-quality sites. Musts seldom dip below 12.5% potential alcohol. On the Danube’s left bank, important vineyards extend north and west from the suburbs of Stammersdorf and Strebersdorf to the edges of the Bisamberg and the weinviertel, a vast growing region many of whose locally important growers also have holdings in Vienna. Each wine district has managed to keep the look of a wine village, even within the borders of a large city. Their often-bucolic wine taverns are a refuge for thirsty urbanites and an emblematic part of Austria’s heuriger culture of grower-dispensed new wine. No account, however brief, of modern Viennese wine history would be complete without mention of the role played by Fritz Wieninger as a model vintner and international ambassador for his vine-rich native city.

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81
Q

Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC

A

is the official Austrian appellation of origin designed to showcase Vienna’s mixed vine plantings. As officially defined from the 2013 vintage, these wines must include at least three white grape varieties, though these may be planted in dedicated blocks as opposed to truly intermingled, provided those blocks are contiguous. No single variety may constitute more than half of a wine’s volume and if it consists of just three varieties, then none may constitute less than 10% of the total volume. Wines from grapes grown in Vienna but vinified and bottled in another region—and there are many producers just outside the city limits in the neighbouring weinviertel or thermenregion as well as in klosterneuburg—may apply for a dispensation to allow their Viennese wines that meet all other DAC requirements to be bottled as Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC. Wines of this DAC that are bottled without vineyard designation may not (with the usual half percentage labelling tolerance) exceed 12.5% alcohol, whereas those labelled for single sites must reach a minimum 12.5%, which nowadays happens as a matter of course. It seems possible that the creation of this DAC will encourage Viennese growers to plant more vineyards with gemischter satz. Since Wien is the name of an Austrian state, as well as of an official wine region, Viennese wines that do not qualify for the Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC may be labelled Wien.

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82
Q

Burgenland

A

Home today to nearly one-third of Austria’s vine acreage, divided between neusiedlersee, neusiedlersee-hügelland, mittelburgenland, and südburgenland. Although it produces important volumes of dry white wine, Burgenland is best known for red and botrytized sweet wines. Wines grown and bottled within this state have long been allowed to indicate Burgenland on the label in preference to specifying one of its regions. Moreover, many wines are now required to stipulate Burgenland as their place of origin rather than citing a specific region on their labels, the designations Neusiedlersee and Mittelburgenland now being restricted to those meeting the requirements of their respective dacs.

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83
Q

Rust

A

Important wine town on the western shore of the neusiedlersee in the Burgenland region of austria historically famous for the production of sweet white ausbruch wines but now also for high-quality reds mainly from Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt and some excellent dry white wines. Rust is also the base of the Austrian Wine Academy, the largest wine education centre in mainland Europe.

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84
Q

Neusiedlersee

A

Refers to both the l33 km-long, notably shallow lake of mysterious origin that plays a critical role in the wine-growing mesoclimates of the northern half of Austrian burgenland, and to an official wine region along that lake’s northern and eastern shores, with roughly 9,100 ha/22,500 acres of vines making up 8% of Austria’s total. A quick tour of this region beginning on the border with the neusiedlersee-hügelland wine region and just to the west of the lake’s northernmost extension highlights its geological, mesoclimatic, and vinous diversity. The villages of Winden and Jois alternately feature slopes of mica schist and limestone, and sites such as the Alter Berg and Junger Berg are gradually re-establishing reputations with blaufränkisch and Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder). Among white wines, the Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) in this sector—while not widely planted—also distinguishes itself. At the northern tip of the lake, the low range of hills between the Parndorfer Platte and the lakeshore at Weiden and Gols features combinations of gravel, sand, and clay that support all the local red grape varieties—notably Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent, Pinot Noir, and zwiegelt—as well as Merlot, Cabernet, and even some Syrah. The wealth of white grapes in this sector includes Chardonnay, neuburger, Pinot Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc. Few villages in Austria are more singularly devoted to viticulture nor so crowded with family wineries than Gols, among which estate-bottlers Hans ‘John’ Nittnaus was the pioneer in the 1980s, champion of unblended Blaufränkisch. Josef ‘Pepi’ Umathum is notable for his rigorous Blaufränkisch vine selection, part of a multifaceted local cultural preservation project. Wide diversity of vine varieties is perpetuated around Mönchhof, Halbturn, and Frauenkirchen further south and east—the so-called Haideboden sector—more dominated by the warmth of the Great Pannonian Plain and less by the lake, a dominance that reaches its Austrian apex at Andau on the Hungarian frontier, known for its rich reds and in particular for the most powerful Zweigelt of all. Along the alternately sandy and gravelly eastern shore of the Neusiedlersee as it descends toward the Hungarian border and an expanse of reedy swampland east of sopron, the villages of Podersdorf, Illmitz, and Apetlon are home—like Rust on the opposite shore—to Austria’s most renowned botrytized sweet wines, along with occasionally remarkable dry whites. Fog and humidity from the Neusiedlersee and a mosaic of small lakes engender frequent botrytis, while sunshine reflected off their surfaces and the bright white expanses of sand and dried mineral salts, serves to project light into the grape clusters; conjoined with this sector’s generally low rainfall, ensures that the rot remains noble. In this so-called Seewinkel sector of the Neusiedlersee grape varieties include Chardonnay, muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer, Pinot Blanc, and welschriesling plus significant amounts of bouvier, Muscat Ottonel, zweigelt, and scheurebe (known locally as sämling 88). Strohwein—straw wine known locally as Schilfwein—benefits from the local reeds and prevalent sunshine and contrasts with the region’s far more prevalent botrytized auslese, beerenauslese, and trockenbeerenauslese wines, while eiswein is also made with relative regularity.

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85
Q

Neusiedlersee continued….

A

Somewhat confusingly, in 2011 Neusiedlersee became one of Austria’s dac appellations of origin, associated exclusively with zweigelt-dominated red wine blends produced in the eponymous region, as a result of which only wines meeting the requirements for that DAC may cite Neusiedlersee as their place of origin, while others—including the sweet wines for which this region has long been best-known—must now state Burgenland as their place of origin. Wines of Neusiedlersee dac are referred to as klassik if overwhelmingly from Zweigelt, raised in tank or large cask, and with at least 12% alcohol. Wines from this DAC labelled Reserve must comprise at least 60% Zweigelt with the rest from other indigenous grapes, be at least 13% alcohol, and aged in large casks or small barrels.

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86
Q

Steiermark

A

Wine region in austria known in English as Styria, comprising the south-east corner of the country and incorporating the official wine regions of süd-oststeiermark, südsteiermark, and weststeiermark. In the age of Imperial Austria, adjacent wingrowing tracts of what is now slovenia were also considered part of Steiermark, making a total viticultural area more than twice the size of that remaining in Austria today. In 2006 Slovenia officially renamed a large share of the Podravje region ‘Stajerska Slovenija’, about which some Austrian neighbours had misgivings initially. The traditional centre for Styrian viticulture was in fact Maribor in Slovenia (Marburg in German), where in the early 19th century Archduke John of Austria directed expansion and improvements in winegrowing, including the introduction of most grape varieties found there today, for which he is still revered by both Austrian and Slovenian vintners.

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87
Q

Styria

A

Small but fashionable wine area in the far south east of austria known as steiermark in German and most famous for aromatic, lively dry whites.

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88
Q

Zierfandler

A

The finer of the two white wine grape varieties traditionally associated with Gumpoldskirchen, the dramatically full-bodied, long-lived spicy white wine of the thermenregion district of austria. (The other is rotgipfler.) Plantings had fallen to just 85 ha/210 acres by 2013. It ripens late, as its synonym Spätrot suggests, but keeps its acidity better than Rotgipfler. Unblended, Zierfandler has sufficient nerve to make late-harvest wines with the ability to evolve over years in bottle, but many Zierfandler grapes are blended, and sometimes vinified, with Rotgipfler. The variety, as Cirfandli, is also known in Hungary. dna parentage analysis suggests it may be a natural cross of roter veltliner and a relative of savagnin.

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89
Q

Rotgipfler

A

The marginally less noble of the two white wine grape varieties traditionally associated with the dramatically full-bodied, long-lived spicy white wine of Austria’s Thermenregion. (The other is zierfandler.) Plantings have remained steady at about 120 ha/300 acres. It ripens late, but earlier than Zierfandler, and the wines are particularly high in extract, alcohol, and bouquet. dna profiling in Austria showed in 1998 that Rotgipfler is a natural cross of savagnin and roter veltliner.

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90
Q

Lenz Moser

A

A training system developed in Austria in the 1920s by Dr Lenz Moser III. It employs wider rows (about 3.5 m/11.5 ft) and higher trunks (1.3 m) than had previously been the norm, thereby reducing vine density. Lenz Moser’s ideas influenced Professor Nelson shaulis, who developed the geneva double curtain. The Lenz Moser system found favour in parts of Europe in the mid 20th century because it decreases labour and therefore production costs, without any need for special machinery. French and German studies found reductions in fruit quality, however, probably because of shade in the fruit zone and it is now much less common even in Austria. It is also known as high culture, or Hochkultur in German. The name is probably more familiar as the biggest wine producer in Austria, with operations as far afield as China.

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91
Q

Loess

A

An accumulation of clay and silt particles that have been deposited by the wind. Loess is typically pale-coloured, unstratified, and loosely cemented by calcium carbonate. Favoured for viticulture because it is porous, permeable, readily warmed, and easily penetrated by roots, it is common in washington state and tokaj, and is found in some vineyards in austria, germany, and china.

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92
Q

Extract

A

The sum of the non-volatile solids of a wine: the sugars, non-volatile acids, minerals, phenolics, glycerol, glycols, nitrogenous compounds, and traces of other substances such as proteins, pectins, and gums. Sometimes sugars are deliberately excluded to give sugar-free extract. Wines’ extract, including sugars, usually starts at between 17 and 30 g/l but can vary considerably depending on the wine’s sweetness, colour (red wines usually having a higher extract than whites, thanks to their greater phenolic content), and age, since some extract is precipitated as sediment over the years. Cooler and wetter years, with higher levels of acidity in the grapes, are likely to produce wines with higher levels of dry extract, and botrytis is also likely to increase its concentration. Historically, extract was determined by the simple but time-consuming expedient of evaporating a measured quantity of wine and weighing the residue, but this method is imprecise and has generally been replaced by using what is known as the Tabarié formula, techniques involving the measurement of alcoholic strength, the density, and the residual sugar (if sugar-free extract is required). To be high in extract, a wine does not necessarily have to be high in alcohol or body. Many fine German wines are high in extract, and yet are low in alcohol and are light bodied, especially low-yield Rieslings. Dry extract helps a wine to age well but there is otherwise no correlation between high extract and high quality in wine.

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93
Q

Heuriger

A

Derived from the word for ‘today’ but signifying by implication ‘this season’, or ‘the latest’, is an austrian institution whose social dimensions extend far beyond the only weeks-old wine so-described. Emperor Josef II in 1784 formally established the right of Austrian wine growers to dispense their young wines by the glass (along with a rudimentary repast) at establishments whose function was signified by the hanging of bush-like bundles of evergreens over the door, for which reason such an establishment is still referred to within Austria as a Buschenschank. The still-cloudy, often only partially fermented young wine is variously known as Staubiger (‘dusty one’), federweisser, or Sturm (‘storm’). Groups of Heurigen with their rows of tiny press houses at the edge of a village or its vineyards are prevalent throughout the former Hapsburg Empire, but within Austria many of these still double as dispensaries. The institution of Austrian wine taverns transcends those temporarily opened each season to serve the latest vintage by the glass or pitcher. Many of Austria’s top wine estates still run a year-round Heuriger at least on weekends out of economic necessity, sometimes less on account of the direct income than because this is a traditional means of establishing one’s brand and local market niche. The Heurigen of Austria’s thirsty capital Vienna and of the adjacent thermenregion are especially numerous and seasonally frenetic.

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94
Q

Bergwein

A

A seldom-encountered official category in austria for wine made on slopes steeper than 26% regardless of their region of origin (thus most often applying to the otherwise disparate wines of styria and the wachau).

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95
Q

Blauer Wildbacher

A

Ancient, dark-skinned, perfumed grape variety that is a speciality of western styria where almost all of the 422 ha/1,042 acres grown in Austria are located. The variety has been increasingly popular with growers and almost all of it is made into the notably tart, local pink speciality, Schilcher. dna parentage analysis suggests a parent–offspring relationship with gouais blanc.

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96
Q

Bouvier

A

Minor, low-acid white grape variety grown mainly in the Burgenland region of austria, where it is particularly used for federweisser, as well as for early-bottled wines. It can also be found in Slovenia, Slovakia, and Hungary.

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97
Q

Neubürger

A

sometimes distinguished white grape variety grown almost exclusively on almost 600 ha in austria. dna profiling in Austria showed it is a cross, possibly accidental, of roter veltliner × sylvaner, which makes nutty wine that tastes like an even fuller-bodied Weissburgunder. It is also encountered in the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Transylvania in romania.

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98
Q

Sturm

A

Federweisser- German term for young wine popularly consumed before bottling—generally cloudy and often still fermenting—and typically referred to in Austria as Sturm or heuriger. Confusingly, the term Federweisser is used in German-speaking Switzerland to refer collectively to white wines made from black grapes.

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99
Q

Frühroter Veltliner

A

‘early-ripening, red-skinned veltliner’, is a white wine grape variety most commonly encountered in Austria, where plantings, mainly in the Weinviertel district of Lower Austria, had fallen to about 400 ha/1,000 acres by 2012. The wine produced is often less distinguished than that made from Austria’s most common grape variety grüner veltliner, being notably lower in acidity in many cases. Yields are also generally lower. dna profiling in Austria showed that Frühroter Veltliner is not related to Grüner Veltliner at all but is a spontaneous cross between roter veltliner and silvaner. It makes rather neutral wine and is well suited to producing white wines in a nouveau style. In Germany, it has been known in Rheinhessen, as Frühroter Malvasier or occasionally Roter Malvasier. It is slightly less rare in north west Hungary, the Czech Republic, and Slovakia.

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100
Q

Roter Veltliner

A

Pink-skinned grape variety formerly widespread in Austria (once planted in California) for the production of table grapes and powerful white wine, in 2012 grown on 200 ha/500 acres of Lower Austria. In warm years, if yields are restricted, it can make intensely aromatic, concentrated wines with high extract, especially in the Wagram district of Donauland. dna profiling in Austria revealed in 1998 that Roter Veltliner is a parent of rotgipfler, neuburger, and frühroter veltliner. A small amount is grown in savoie, where the wines are labelled Malvoisie.

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101
Q

Süd-Oststeiermark

A

Wine region of austria that covers a vast area, yet harbours only around 1,300 ha/3,200 acres of vineyard, little more than half that planted by its much smaller but densely planted neighbour südsteiermark. Süd-Oststeiermark’s top growers, however, stake claims for the distinctiveness of their individual sectors and villages, of which the best-known are Kapfenstein, Straden, Klöch, and Bad Radkersburg. Important varieties include Chardonnay, muskateller, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling, and Traminer, which has a long association with several south-east Styrian communities.

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102
Q

Austria- 700 BC

A

The Celts and most probably their Illyrian predecessors begin to cultivate the vine in a primitive form and vitis vinifera grape pips dating from the Hallstatt cultural period, were discovered in former Celtic dwellings in the wine-producing village of Zagersdorf in Burgenland. In Lower Austria, further evidence of grape pips dating from the Bronze Age also suggest that vines were cultivated in the Traisental region, as well as, at this time in Stillfried and the March in the Weinviertel.

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103
Q

Austria- 1 BC

A

The Romans start extensive planting of grape vines and cultivation of the vine reaches our latitude, with evidence found along and around the River Danube, as well as close to the Neusiedlersee, Südburgenland and in the region of Carnuntum in Lower Austria and Flavia Solva in Südsteiermark.

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104
Q

Austria- 276- 282 AD

A

Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus repeals Emperor Domitian’s ban on vine plantings north of the Alps and takes his troops to the Pannonian plains and authorises the planting of new vineyards.

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105
Q

Austria- 488 AD

A

The Romans finally relinquish their governance of the Province of Noricum, and in the following period of mass migration, a vast amount of the vines are abandoned.

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106
Q

Austria- 795 AD

A

Karl der Große, or Charlemagne, issued his “Capitulare de Villis“, which gave detailed information on viticulture, vines and wine law. During the course of the Carolingian colonialisation, viticulture was consistently encouraged in the regions to the east of France, leading to a cadastral map of vineyards, as well as the replanting of more beneficial grape vine varieties.

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107
Q

Austria- 890- 955 AD

A

Viticulture suffers a drastic setback following the Magyar invasion.

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108
Q

Austria- 10- 12th Century

A

In this century the Cistercians introduce Burgundian viticulture methods into Austria via the Stift Heiligenkreuz and Freigut Thallern monasteries in Thermenregion. Meanwhile, Bavarian dioceses and abbeys settling along the Danube, begin to clear and cultivate the river and tributaries, and build vineyard terraces in the Wachau. At this time, monasteries cultivated the vineyards, such as the Bavarian Niederaltaich, Herrieden, Tegernsee and Metten Abbeys are responsible for cultivating the vineyards, as well as Freising, Passau and Regensburg Dioceses, along with the Archbishop of Salzburg, who also owned territory in the region.

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109
Q

Austria- 1170 AD

A

Vienna enjoys a viticultural boom after the House of Babenberg is relocated to the capital city. The Viennese citizens are allowed to purchase vineyards, leading to many parts within the inner city becoming cultivated vineyards.

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110
Q

Austria- 1327 AD

A

The Seitzerkeller, owned by the Mauerbach Charterhouse, moves to the Dorotheergasse in Vienna, and subsequently over sixty cellar rooms are converted into drinking parlours, or so called “Trinkstuben“, where the proprietor serves his own produce.

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111
Q

Austria- 1359 AD

A

Rudolf IV, Duke of Austria, declares a 10% wine tax, known as the “Ungeld“, and introduces laws in favour of landlords and imposes an array of tolls allowing towns and territorial princes to charge for the transit and import of wines.

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112
Q

Austria- 15th- 16th Century

A

During this century the total area under vine in Austria reaches its zenith, and vast vineyards stretch along the Danube from Vienna to Upper Austria in the west, and down towards Semmering in Styria, as well as in Salzburg, Carinthia, Tyrol and Vorarlberg, with as much as three times the vineyard acreage found today.

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113
Q

Austria- 1524 AD

A

Queen Maria of Hungary granted the vintners from the town of Rust the privilege of branding a capital ‘R’ onto their wine casks, as an early form of Protected Designation of Origin.

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114
Q

Austria- 1526 AD

A

The Royal Esterhàzy family vineyards produce the first documented noble sweet dessert wine (most probably a Trockenbeerenauslese) from the village of Donnerskirchen, Burgenland. Regarded as the Lutherwein, Prince Paul Esterházy purchased a large vat of the wine in 1653, and the same wine was enjoyed for over 300 years, the last drop being allegedly poured in 1852.

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115
Q

Austria- 1582 AD

A

Johann Rasch (1540-1612) from the Schottenstift (Scottish Abbey) in Vienna, publishes his well known work “Von Baw, Pfleg und Brauch des Weins“ as the author of the first viticulture and wine book in the German language.

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116
Q

Austria- 17th Century

A

Production of wine curbs due to religious conflict, the siege of the Turks, high taxation and the upturn in beer production.

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117
Q

Austria- 1681 AD

A

The town of Rust on Lake Neusiedl pays the immense sum of 60,000 Gulden and 500 pails of Ausbruch wine to become a Free Imperial City.

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118
Q

Austria- 18th Century

A

Maria Theresia (reigned from 1740 to 1780) and her son Josef II (reigned from 1780 to 1790) revitalise viticulture and during this period, renovation and research into the cultivation of vines and wines begins.

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119
Q

Austria- 1784 AD

A

The Josephinische Zirkularverordnung Decree of 17 August 1784 allowes every person to serve and sell own produce, including wine, at any time of the year and at whatever given price („die von ihm selbst erzeugten Lebensmittel, Wein und Obstmost zu allen Zeiten des Jahres, wie, wann und zu welchem Preis er will, zu verkaufen oder auszuschenken“). This is therefore the beginning of the famous Buschenschank legislation, and the first step towards the ‘Heurigen’ and ‘Buschenschänken’ in Austria.

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120
Q

Austria- 1860 AD

A

Baron August Wilhelm von Babo founds the first viticultural and oenoloigcal school and research centre in Klosterneuburg, which is passed into the management of the State in 1874, and has been known as Höheren Lehranstalt für Wein- und Obstbau (Federal College of Viticulture, Oenology and Fruit) since 1902. This is officially the oldest viticulture school in the world and many similar institutes emerged from this model throughout the Monachy.

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121
Q

Austria- 19th Century

A

First sightings of Oidium (powdery mildew) in 1850 and Peronospora (downy mildew) in 1878 in vineyards. The unheeded introduction of phylloxera in 1872 destroyed extensive vineyard acreage and viticulture livelyhood in Austria.

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122
Q

Austria- 1890 AD

A

Ludwig Hermann Goethe becomes Managing Director of the Agricultural Association, set up to protect Austrian viticulture, and publishes pioneering documentation into viticultre and origins of vine varieties in our latitude.

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123
Q

Austria- 1907 AD

A

The first Austrian wine law is enforced, listing what is permitted by law for the production of wine, and prohibiting the fabrication of artificial wines.

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124
Q

Austria- 1918 AD

A

Following the breakup of the Habsburg Monachy, Austria’s vineyard area is reduced some 30,000 hectares right up until the 1930’s (compared with 48,000 hectares prior to the outbreak of the First World War)

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125
Q

Austria- 1922 AD

A

Professor Friedrich Zweigelt, later Director of the Höheren Bundeslehr- und Bundesversuchsanstalt für Wein-, Obst- und Gartenbau college in Klosterneuburg, successfully crosses the indigenous varieties St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch, and creates Austria’s most significant new variety, the Blauer Zweigelt.

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126
Q

Austria- 1936 AD

A

The Ministry of Agriculture passes a new viticultural law prohibiting the planting of new vineyards as well as hybrid direct producers. This represents a prime example of the strong protectionist nature of the agricultural policies during the First Republic.

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127
Q

Austria- 1950 AD

A

Lenz Moser, the wine pioneer from Rohrendorf, publishes his groundbreaking book “Weinbau einmal anders“ (a new approach to viticulture), that argued against most of the traditional viticultural methods. The fairly rapid conversion to the ‘Hochkultur’ during the 1950’s trellising system led to a mechanised and rationalisation of viticulture, coupled with a notable increase in yield. In the eighties, as much as 90 percent of the acreage under vine was trained using the ‘Hochkultur’ system.

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128
Q

Austria- 1985 AD

A

The wine scandel unleashes an unprecidented price reduction of tank wine after the it was discovered that Austrian wine has been adulterated by the illegal additive diethylene glycol. Consequently, export sales of Austrian wine virtually diminish overnight and within a year, the new, stringent wine law is introduced, to supervise and inspect Austrian wine.

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129
Q

Austria- 1986 AD

A

The Austrian Wine Marketing Board is established, to specifically promote the image and sale of Austrian wine.

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130
Q

Austria- 1991 AD

A

The Austrian ‘Weinakademie’, the first recognised WSET school to teach to diploma level in the German language, is established in Rust. The centre offers a wide range of courses and programmes aimed at promoting wine culture. Today, over 1,000 seminars and 20,000 participants attend these courses annually, making it Europe’s largest wine school

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131
Q

Austria- 1995 AD

A

Following Austria’s entry into the European Union, the European Community Wine Legislation is acknowledged.

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132
Q

Austria- 2000 bis 2008

A

EU measures are introduced to promote and financially support wineries, yet at the same time, subsidies are handed out to encourage the voluntary grubbing up of vines, to curb surplus production.

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133
Q

Austria- 2001

A

Regional wine committees, promoting wine on a local level, is established with close cooperation with the Austrian Wine Marketing Board. Their purpose is to improve the communication and sales of the produce in their regions, as well as to supervise agricultural contract issues, quality measures. Their role is significant in defining a regional typicity for the wine style and its promotion and publicity, in their specific region. The National wine body also supervises and liases with the local committees.

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134
Q

Austria- 2001

A

An amendment in the wine law allows a wine displaying regional typicity, as defined by the regional committee, to apply the term DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) to the name of the wine producing region. Only these wines, examined and approved by the State commission control number and a further requirement for regional typicity, are allowed to print e.g. Weinviertel DAC, onto the label. Non-defined varieties or other styles are marketed under the larger wine producing region, e.g. Niederösterreich.

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135
Q

Austria- 2002

A

The London blind tasting of Grüner Veltliner versus Chardonnay from prominent international producers, is organised by Jan-Erik Paulson and hosted by Jancis Robinson MW and Tim Atkin MW. From over 30 wines, the top four places are given to Austrian Chardonnays and Grüner Veltliners, with a further 3 wines ranked in the top ten. Similar tastings in Vienna, Tokyo and Singapore, which included sought after wines from Ramonet, Louis Latour, Jadot (Burgund), Gaja (Piedmont), Mondavi (California) and Penfolds (Australia), led to similar results.

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136
Q

Austria- 2003

A

The first official DAC wine displaying regional typicity and origin, the dry Weinviertel DAC Grüner Veltliner, is released with the 2002 vintage.

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137
Q

Austria- 2006

A

Austria’s first red wine to gain DAC status is the Blaufränkisch from Mittelburgenland (2005 vintage). This time, the DAC wine showing regional typicity and origin is released in two categories, the Klassik and Reserve wines.

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138
Q

Austria- 2007- 2009

A

The release of the 2006 vintage witnesses further wines of origin, Riesling and Grüner Veltliner Traisental DAC. Likewise for Kremstal DAC from the 2007 vintage, and Kamptal DAC from 2008, both varieties are available in classic and reserve categories. Weinviertel DAC Reserve is available from the 2009 vintage.

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139
Q

Austria- 2010

A

From 1 September 2010, two further wines of origin from Burgenland are available. The Leithaberg DAC (white from 2009 and red from 2008 vintages) as well as Eisenberg DAC (Blaufränkisch, Klassik from 2009 vintage, Reserve from 2008 vintage).

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140
Q

Austria- 2012

A

In March 2012, the Neusiedlersee DAC designation of origin goes into effect. With this, Zweigelt from the region is named as the origin-typical grape variety. Reserve level wines can be composed of a cuvée blend that is Zweigelt-dominated. The new designation of origin applies to wines made as of the 2011 vintage.

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141
Q

Austria- 2013

A

From the 2013 vintage Wiener Gemischter Satz became Austria’s ninth DAC designation of origin.

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142
Q

The Danube Area

A

From the Wachau to the west to Vienna, Grüner Veltliner and Riesling with great backbone are dominant. Streams of warm Pannonian air wafting across the Wagram into the side-valleys of the Danube (Strassertal, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental…) and finally through the narrow valley of the Wachau, carved deeply by the Danube over thousands of years into the primitive rock of the Bohemian Massif. Danube wines aromas are the result of the big temperature difference which occur during the day and night. These are generated especially during sunny Septembers, whose evenings are blanketed with cool air that makes its way down from the north. The alluring charm of these wines lies in the freshness of the aromas along with the high physiological ripeness resulting from the long vegetation cycle that keeps harvests going well into November. The peach or gooseberry aromas of the steely Riesling, the nutty scent of the longevity-prone Neuburger, the intense grapy bouquet of the Muskateller, the fresh, delicate floweriness of the Weißburgunder and the piquant honey note of the Roter Veltliner are reflections of nature´s breath. Moreover, even with this freshness, the increasing layers of loess soil give to the wines (e.g. from Krems to the east) a creamy texture, which is especially demonstrated in the Grüner Veltliner. And more and more often, the Danube wine-growing regions also yield elegant and fruity red wines. The distinct differences in the terroirs here are being explored.

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143
Q

The Weinvertel

A

The Weinviertel, Austria´s northern-most wine-growing region, is home to the “peppery” Grüner Veltliner. Because of its dimensions and clear boundaries - the Manhartsberg in the west; the Danube to the south and the Austrian border, extending from the north to the east - the Weinviertel with its numerous microclimatic and geological differences is its own wide-open area. The typical character of the Weinviertel´s classic Grüner Veltliner is indeed a cohesive one, and this has been confirmed in a recent scientific study. So it is no wonder that the “Weinviertel” - with its classic peppery Grüner Veltliner - entered history as Austria´s first wine of origin in the new DAC appellation system. In contrast to the Danube´s Veltliners, the “Weinviertel” has a more rustic aroma and character, which makes it an ideal partner to the local cuisine. In special Weinviertel sites, the Grüner Veltliner in the Reserve quality level demonstrates the same kind of concentration and finesse that mark the Danube wines. The Weinviertel´s climate favours not only Grüner Veltliner, but also a wide range of varietals such as fresh Welschriesling, Weißburgunder and Riesling. It is important to note that there are also pockets of red wine islands in the Weinviertel - for example, around Haugsdorf.

144
Q

Pannonian Area

A

Southeast of the Austrian capital, Vienna, the continuous influences of the warm Pannonain climate help define the character of the wines. In contrast to other areas, a fuller, rounder body is characteristic of the wines from Carnuntum, the Thermenregion and Burgenland. The Pannonian area is where Austria shows off its prowess in red wine production. The full-bodied Zweigelt is dominant from Carnuntum to the Seewinkel. In the Steinfeld of the Thermenregion, the velvety St. Laurent is the ideal variety with its typical morello cherry nose. And the Mittelburgenland has been established as a DAC appellation with Blaufränkisch as its calling card varietal. The partly loamy soils here contribute to this variety´s unique forest berry bouquet. And on the Eisenberg in the south, it already starts to reveal a touch of Styrian freshness. A completely different, minerally and tannin-rich type of Blaufränkisch thrives between the Hügelland - on the western shore of the Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl) – and the Spitzerberg in the Carnuntum wine-growing region. The cooler sites of the chalk-rich Leithaberg yield particularly great Weißburgunder and Chardonnay wines with sophisticated, multilayered bouquets. And on the slopes of the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods), around Gumpoldskirchen, the traditional white production is blooming again with the indigenous varieties Zierfandler and Rotgipfler. The high humidity around the Seewinkel, with its countless mini-lakes, is conducive to the development of noble rot (Botrytis cinerea), which leads to the production of supreme world-class wines in Prädikat categories up to the highly-concentrated Trockenbeerenauslese. But great sweet wines are made also on the other side of the Neusiedlersee lake, with the renowned Ruster Ausbruch as their flagship.

145
Q

The Steiermark

A

The Steiermark, or Styria, has a very special culinary identity with wine as its highlight. The typically Austrian freshness reaches its culmination point in the hilly countryside landscape. Nowhere else in the world are there wines of such smooth precision, aromatic brilliance and robust piquancy. The varietal that links the area between Hartberg and Deutschlandsberg is Welschriesling, with its refreshing apple fragrance and a touch of spiciness. This “Steirische” nose evolves into a distinctive grapy expression with the dry Gelber Muskateller, which – and this is a little known fact - often remains unchanged for years. Also, the Traminer is a Styrian “secret tip” - especially when it comes from the volcanic terroir around Klöch.
Weißburgunder and Chardonnay - which is known here as “Morillon” – as well as the slightly weightier Pinot Gris are included in the Steiermark´s varietal spectrum. But the winemakers of the Steiermark have been concentrating heavily in recent years on Sauvignon Blanc. This varietal, especially from the calcareous top sites embracing the steep hills of Südsteiermark (South Styria), develops a special dimension and style. Still, the impressive Styrian wine family includes also the “Schilcher”, which is made from the Blauer Wildbacher grape. This racy rosé from the west of the Styrian wine-growing region is a terroir wine par excellence, enhanced by the appreciation for and dedication to its uniqueness.

146
Q

Bergland

A

Although the wine industry in Austria is concentrated in the two major wine-growing regions Weinland (the Danube area, Weinviertel and the Pannonian area) and Steirerland (wine-growing areas in the southern part of Styria), we also find vineyards scattered throughout the wine-growing region of Bergland (in the federal states of Carinthia, Upper Austria , Salzburg, Tyrol and Vorarlberg). The wines are characterised by the Atlantic climate and proximity to the Alps. The naturally cooler annual average air temperature reduces the possible areas where vines are planted, with protected southern slopes or specific microclimatic warmed pockets of land being particularly favourable, and these have often been regarded as a wine-growing areas in the toponymy for centuries. Nowadays, the wine industry in this area is operated to a lesser extent, as compared for example during the Middle Ages, even if there is still a variety of local, domestic and field names that refer to the long tradition of viticulture that once thrived. In the wake of the current global warming, viticulture is enjoying a renaissance in the Bergland area, particularly in the wine-growing region of Kärnten (Carinthia) .
The cooler, Alpine climate traditionally favours early-maturing varieties such as Chardonnay, Müller Thurgau, Frühroter Veltliner, Bouvier, Muskat Ottonel, Pinot Gris, Blauer Portugieser and Blauburger. The development of the climate now increasingly enables quality wine production in warmer sites from late-ripening varieties such as Grüner Veltliner, Riesling (e.g. in a medium sweet “German Mosel” style with residual sugar), Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, Traminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt and Rösler.

147
Q

Niederösterreich (Lower Austria)- Geology

A

Lower Austria includes the following large geological units: Moldanubian Superunit, Moravian Superunit, Molasse Zone, Vienna Basin, Waschberg Zone, Flysch Zone, Northern Calcareous Alps and the Central Eastern Alps. Quaternary deposits such as fine-grained loess and coarse-grained terrace gravels, which are significant for wine growing, may overlay all the main geological units. Loess forms the initial material of the deep soils which show a varying calcareous-dolomitic content for just over half of the vineyards in this area. Almost one third of the vineyards are located upon deposits of Neogene age within the Molasse Zone and Vienna Basin. Aside from locally formed marls and sandstones, conglomerates and the Leitha Limestone, the dominant rocks here are unconsolidated. They vary from clayey silt to sand to gravel and rock debris in all proportions and can also differ greatly in carbonate content. Just over six percent of the vineyards are located on soils overlaying crystalline bedrock of the Bohemian Massif. These areas are dominated by acid gneisses, granites and granulites. Especially in the units with abundant schistose paragneiss, alternation with amphibolite layers is often common and somewhat less frequently with marble layers. Features worthy of particular mention are the remnants of the first erosion episode of the uplifting high mountain ranges of the Bohemian Massif, which are preserved in the so-called Zöbing Formation of late Palaeozoic age.

148
Q

Burgenland- Geology

A

Burgenland is from a geological point of view formed from the Styrian and Pannonian Basins and from the Austroalpine and Penninic Superunits. The Austroalpine Superunit consists of several nappes and through tectonic windows the lower levels of the Penninic Superunit are exposed. The deposits of the Quaternary are particularly common in the north of the country. Over 60 percent of the vineyards in this area are dominated by diverse, coarse-grained, calcareous sandy gravels deposited along the ancient course of the Danube. Particularly noteworthy is the Seewinkel gravel, which underlays about a third of the vineyards. These gravels are only covered locally by fine sediments. In the older terraces a loamy, often lime-poor cover layer is widely distributed. A good third of the vineyards are located on deposits of Neogene age within the basins. The deposits vary greatly, both with regard to grain size distribution, carbonate content and grade of consolidation: The spectrum ranges from partly silty, sometimes almost pure and non-calcareous clays in Central Burgenland to the consolidated Leitha Limestone. The proportion of wine growing areas sited on consolidated rocks is low, but includes a colourful range: dolomite and limestone, calcareous-, clay- and mica schists, gneisses, amphibolites and serpentinites.

149
Q

Steiermark (Styria)- Geology

A

Styria, in the area of the Central Eastern Alps, is formed from the geological Penninic and Austroalpine Superunits. Among others the following belong to the Austroalpine Superunit: the Northern Calcareous Alps and the crystalline rocks in the areas of Jogllandes, Sausal and the Koralpe mountain range. Lowlands form the basins in the Mur- and Mürz valleys and the Styrian Basin. The wine growing area is situated to the east and south, where the Central Eastern Alps disappear under the Styrian Basin, which extends eastwards to the great Pannonian Basin. About three-quarters of all vineyards in Styria are sited on deposits of the Styrian Basin, about 20 percent of the vines grow on consolidated rocks of the Austroalpine Superunit. A small proportion of the vines occur on mostly coarse-grained alluvial deposits, which are concentrated in the basin. Special features to note in the area are the volcanic basalts, scoria and tuffs of the south-east sector, which underlay about three percent of the Styrian vineyards. The remaining basinal deposits vary both in grain size, carbonate content and grade of consolidation. They range from silts and marls to sands, gravels, boulder debris, sandstones and conglomerates and locally occurring limestone. The diverse rock types occurring in the vineyards in the area of the Central Eastern Alps include gneiss, mica schist, phyllite, amphibolite, rare marbles and limestones.

150
Q

Wien (Vienna)- Geology

A

The vineyards at Bisamberg, in Dobling, Dornbach and Ottakring are situated upon the consolidated rocks of the Penninic Flysch and intercalated coloured marls as well as on marginal marine sediments of the Vienna Basin which is of Neogene age. The flysch consists of partly calcareous and partly quartz-rich sandstones with marl and clay layers. The deposits of the basin margin are composed of consolidated limestone (Leitha Limestone), of unconsolidated but mostly coarse sand and gravel and rarely of marl, which were deposited about 16 to 12 million years ago. The substratum of the vineyards in Mauer and Kalksburg are also formed from marginal sediments of the Vienna Basin. These developed due to deposition by rivers and debris flows from the Vienna Woods of sandy-gravel which solidified as conglomerates or breccias. The vineyards in Stammersdorf, Hungerberg and in Oberlaa are located on terraces representing old Danube levels and consist of quartz-rich gravels with a loamy surface layer and a base formed mostly of sandy-gravel or fine-grained sediments, referred to locally as Tegel, of the Vienna Basin.

151
Q

Bergland- Geology

A

The hard cliffside rocks that make up the western and central part of Austria are highly diverse and include the following geological compounds: Moldanubicum, Molasse Zone, Eastern Alps with the Northern Kalkalpen (lit. Limestone Alps) and the Central Eastern Alps, Penninikum with flysch rocks, Helvetic and Subpenninikum. As in Eastern Austria, young sedimentary basins and geological even younger, quaternary, deposits of gravels, sands, silts and clays are found in the Alps. These sediments and particles were deposited across all peaks and troughs into the present valley and lake areas. In the cold periods of the Quaternary, large parts of the highlands were widely glaciated several times over, only the northern parts of Upper Austria and Eastern Carinthia were the last glacier high ice-free state. There are large gravel terraces and, in Upper Austria, also loess and loam sediments. In the mountainous regions, however, the young sedimentation is localised and very diverse in content.

152
Q

Gruner Veltliner

A

Origin: Austria, Niederösterreich, Burgenland

Parentage: Natural offspring of Traminer and St. Georgen. The second parent variety was found in St. Georgen in Austria’s Burgenland. This grape variety was named after its discovery location because, following genetic research, it could not be attributed to any known variety. The Grüner Veltliner is not related to the Roter Veltliner and Frühroter Veltliner.

Vineyard area: 13,518 ha, 29.4%

Grüner Veltliner is the most important autochthonous grape variety in Austria. It was most widespread in the 1950s because of the introduction then of Lenz Moser´s Hochkultur (High Culture) training system. Today, the variety is widely planted especially in Niederösterreich and northern Burgenland. As an origin-typical DAC wine, this variety holds special rank in several wine-growing regions. While its cultivation decreased by 22% between 1999 and 2009, it still maintains the dominant position in Austria’s total vineyard surface area.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized, pentagonal to circular, with five to seven lobes, and a moderately hairy underside. The typical white woolly hair on the shoot tip gives the variety its synonym - Weißgipfler.
Grape cluster: medium to very large; medium density; conical; shouldered, with large round to oval berries; greenish-yellow, to foxy-yellow on the sun-exposed side.

Ripening time: mid-season

Importance, Conditions: The most important grape variety in Austria. Grüner Veltliner achieved worldwide awareness and popularity at the end of the last century. It is a fertile variety and therefore requires yield regulation. It grows especially well in deep loess soils, does not like dryness, is sensitive during flowering, and is susceptible to peronospora, Roter Brenner (Pseudopezicula tracheiphila) and chlorosis.

Wine: Grüner Veltliner delivers all quality levels - from light, acidity-toned wines to the highly ripe Prädikat wines. The site and the yield are crucial to the quality. Spicy, peppery versions are preferred; so are versions yielding stone fruit notes.

153
Q

Bouvier

A

Origin: Austria, Bad Radkersburg (Steiermark)

Parentage: Breed from Gelber Muskateller X Weißer Burgunder. This variety was bred at around 1900 by Lothar Bouvier in Bad Radkersburg.

Vineyard area: 234 ha, 0.5 %. Bouvier is found mainly in Burgenland. Between 1999 and 2009, its vineyard area decreased by one third.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium; circular with five lobes, deeply lobed
Grape cluster: small- to medium-sized; medium dense to loose grapes; cylindrical; often with wings; round, greenish-yellow grapes with thick skins

Ripening time: very early

Importance, conditions: Bouvier is marketed mainly as a table grape, as must, “sturm” (still-fermenting grape juice) or as young wine. In Burgenland, its primary growing region, the variety makes also Prädikat wines that usually express a mild character with a delicate nutmeg tone. On the variety’s down side are its unpredictable and low yields.

Wine: The wines are mild, extract-rich and, depending on the site, have a more or less strong nutmeg bouquet.

154
Q

Chardonnay (Morillon)- Austria

A

Origin: France, Burgundy

Parentage: Natural crossing of Burgunder and Heunisch

Vineyard area: 1,431 ha, 3.1 %. Chardonnay gained importance in Austrian vineyards only at the end of the last century, although the variety already had long been cultivated here, especially in the Steiermark. In earlier days, often no differentiation was made between between Weißer Burgunder (Pinot blanc) and Chardonnay. Even statistically, both varieties were ranked together as one grape (Weißer Burgunder). In the Steiermark, the name Morillon is traditionally used as a synonym for Chardonnay.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized, pentagonal, few lobes, exposed petiole, open.
Grape cluster: medium; dense round berries, conical, often has wings, yellowish-green colour

Morillon is genetically identical to the Chardonnay variety. Specialists see little differences in the colour of the leaves and buds. There are also no differences in the characteristics of the bunches.

Ripening time: mid-season

Importance, conditions: The variety is grown throughout the world and yields some of the most expensive wines anywhere. It is also used for base wine in champagne production. Warm sites with deep soil, good water retention and ample limestone content are required.

Wine: Depending on maturity levels, wines can range from unripe, thin and grassy to fully ripe and powerful. There are two types of maturation – in “classic” steel tanks, which accentuates fruit and animated acidity; and the the most widely used method internationally – malolactic fermentation and ageing in barriques. The most important feature of a great Chardonnay is complexity, which comes through only when grapes are grown in especially good sites with calcareous soil. The best examples of these complex Chardonnays are from northern Burgenland and Steiermark, and from some sites in Niederösterreich and Wien (Vienna).

155
Q

Fruhroter Veltliner

A

Origin: Austria, Niederösterreich

Parentage: Natural crossing of Roter Veltliner and Sylvaner.

Vineyard area: 424 ha, 0.9 %. This old autochthonous grape variety is widely grown in the Thermenregion, Weinviertel and in the Wagram. Its representation in vineyards decreased by 32.2% between 1999 and 2009.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: Cuneiform to pentagonal, three to five lobes, stalk is red up to the main nerve, slightly open petiole.
Grape cluster: large with thick berries, cylindrical shape, shouldered with elliptic, rose-coloured berries with a neutral taste.

Ripening time: early

Importance and conditions: The significance of the Frühroter Veltliner is decreasing. It is marketed mainly as a table grape, as an en Primeur or an open house wine – especially in the Thermenregion, Weinviertel and the Wagram. Has few demands on soil and site.

Wine: The early drinking, gently acidity wines are low in alcohol and present a bouquet that is mainly herbaceous with whiffs of flowers and bitter almonds.

156
Q

Furmint

A

Origin: Hungary

Parentage: From a Heunisch variety crossing, and is genetically similar to other Hungarian varieties.

Vineyard area: 9 ha. Furmint – the main-variety used for Tokaji – has been approved as a Qualitätswein in Austria since 1987, but its growth here is limited. In Rust, Furmint is sometimes used for traditional Ausbruch wines.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: circular to pentagonal, five lobes
Grape cluster: very large with compact berries; cylindrical, shouldered, often with wings; grapes are oval with a greenish-yellow colour and a neutral taste.

Ripening time: late

Importance, conditions: The variety is highly prone to Botrytis, making it a preferred grape for the production of noble sweet wines. Needs excellent warm and dry sites with calcareous soils. There are some disadvantages, such as sensitivity to winter and late frosts and proneness to peronospora and oidium.

Wine: The wines are very rich in extract and have good body. The relatively high acidity and alcohol content support the longevity of the wines. A honey tone is characteristic. Furmint delivers good quality especially in high Prädikat-level wines.

157
Q

Muskateller (Gelber Muskateller, Roter Muskateller)

A

Origin: Unknown, but possibly from Italy or Greece

Parentage: It is one of the oldest grape varieties and yields different types, especially in Italy. Roter (Red) and Gelber (Yellow) Muscat are differentiated by the colour of their berries.

Vineyard area: 527 ha, 1.1 %. Since the end of the last century, this variety has been planted more and more, and has increasing market significance. Between 1999 and 2009, its vineyard coverage increased from 143 ha to 527 ha - a 267% rise!

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized, five lobes, deeply serrated, with sharp pointed teeth and nodules at the tips
Grape cluster: medium, loose to dense round berries, conical, greenish yellow (Yellow Muscat) or meat red (Red Muskateller) in colour; nutmeg flavour

Ripening time: late

Importance, conditions: Gained popularity with consumers especially at the end of the last century and since then, plantings in all wine-growing regions have increased. The variety makes little demands on the soil, which is an advantage to wine-growers. But in the vineyard, it can be difficult and challenging. It is rot-prone and its yield is unpredictable because of a sensitive flowering phase. Also, it needs warm, airy sites; the variety is highly susceptible to oidium and Botrytis.

Wine: Delivers wines with a more or less intense nutmeg aroma and flavour. With too little ripeness, the wines are low in extract and therefore thin and have marked acidity. The Muskateller is especially delicious as an aperitif and with appetizers.

158
Q

Traminer (Gewürztraminer, Roter Traminer, Gelber Traminer)

A

Origin: Likely from southeast Europe. In the Middle Ages, the variety was found in Südtirol (South Tyrol), now in northern Italy. In fact, Traminer was named after the lively South Tyrolean town of Tramin, long-established in the wine trade.

Parentage: Selected from wild vines, Traminer is one of the oldest European varieties and was even likely known by the Romans as Vitis aminera.

The variety is differentiated by its range of colours. Roter Traminer has red grapes; Gewürztraminer shows light red/pink grapes; and with yellow grapes it is the Gelber Traminer. These also deliver different spicy flavours influenced by their terroirs. Name-wise, all of the Traminer types can be referred to as Gewürztraminer. Traminer is often a natural crossing partner for other varieties, including the Grüner Veltliner (Traminer x St. Georgen).

Vineyard area: 321 ha, 0.7 %. Though grown worldwide, the variety is cultivated in Austria mainly on small vineyard sites for the production of specialities. The sites are spread over all of the country’s wine-growing regions; the Südoststeirischen Vulkanland is particularly well-known for Traminer. Overall, however, the variety’s representation in vineyards is decreasing.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: small; round with five lobes; slightly sinuous; wide overlapping petiole
Grape cluster: small; medium density, conical, shouldered, often with small wings; grapes are round to oval with thick skins; firm flesh with low acidity, high sugar content and an intense spicy taste

Ripening time: mid- to late season

Importance, conditions: This is a special variety for highly ripe aromatic wines. Very demanding of soil and site. It is particularly sensitive during flowering - bringing low yields, but grapes with a high sugar content.

Wine: The wines are low in acidity, but rich in extract and aromas (roses, lemon, forest berry, raisin, dried fruit), have good durability and excellent ageing potential. Prädikat wines often have a residual sweetness and a discreet, harmonious bitter touch.

159
Q

Goldburger

A

Origin: Austria, LFZ Klosterneuburg

Parentage: New breed from Welschriesling and Orangetraube – created by Dr. Fritz Zweigelt in 1922 at the Teaching and Research Centre for Viticulture and Horticulture (LFZ) in Klosterneuburg

Vineyard area: 150 ha, 0.3 %. The variety has little significance in terms of area, and is cultivated only in Austria.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized, round, five lobes
Grape cluster: small with compact berries, cylindrical, often with wings; grapes are small with a greenish-yellow colour, are spotted, juicy and have a neutral taste.

Ripening-time: mid-season

Importance, conditions: The variety makes few demands on the soil and so far has – despite its somewhat early ripeness (the intent of using the early-ripening Orangetraube variety for crossing) – no significance in comparison with Welschriesling.

Wine: Brings full, fruity, extract-rich, neutral wines.

160
Q

Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder, Ruländer)- Austria

A

Origin: France, Burgundy. Grauburgunder (Pinot gris) was brought from Burgundy to Austria in the 13th or 14th century by Cistercian monks – which is why the variety once was referred to as the Grauer Mönch, or gray monk. The grape made its way to Germany from Burgundy or Champagne, and in 1711, it was found in a vineyard – which no longer exists - by businessman Johann Seger Ruland from Speyer. From there, the variety was planted under the name of Ruländer.

Parentage: mutation of the Blauburgunder (Pinot noir) variety.

Vineyard area: 222 ha, 0.5 %. Mostly in northern Burgenland and the Steiermark. The vineyard area decreased by 24% between 1999 and 2009.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: pentagonal, three to five lobes, slightly overlapping petiole
Grape cluster: small, densely compact berries; cylindrical; occasionally shouldered, with small round berries having greyish-red thin skins. Before the grapes ripen, it is difficult to differentiate the variety from Blauburgunder (Pinot noir) and Weißburgunder (Pinot blanc). Only the colour of the ripened grapes and the ripening time confirm the identity.

Ripening time: mid-early season

Importance, conditions: The variety reaches a high natural sugar content and is, therefore, well-suited for Spätlese and Auslese wine styles. The vines are demanding and prefer warm slope sites with deep nutrient-rich soil and good water retention.

Wine: Yields mild Qualitats- and Prädikat wines with fine, understated varietal aromas that last and last. When harvested very early, the wines become light and sparkling. As it is prone to Botrytis – which develops to noble rot when it appears later in the season – the Grauburgunder often shows a strong palate characterized by the Botrytis with a typical honey tone. Achieves high quality as an aged wine.

161
Q

Sylvaner (Grüner Sylvaner)

A

Origin: Austria. Sylvaner is one of the oldest autochthonous grape varieties in Austria. From here, the variety made its way to Germany and, in fact had once been known there as the “Österreicher”.

Parentage: Natural crossing of Traminer and Österreichisch Weiß.

Vineyard area: 43 ha, 0.1 %. The variety was still quite significant in Austria in the mid- 20th century. But its popularity declined because of its considerable disadvantages when compared to the Grüner Veltliner - such as little resistance to winter frosts and a high susceptibility to peronospora, oidium and Botrytis. Also, the variety’s growth proved too weak for Lenz Moser’s Hochkultur (high culture) training system, which had gained widespread use with the favoured Grüner Veltliner. Between 1999 and 2009, Sylvaner’s limited vineyard growth decreased even further, by 40%.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: Pentagonal with five lobes; slightly sinuate, wavy
Grape cluster: small; very compact berries; cylindrical; shouldered with small, round and spotted greenish-yellow grapes

Ripening time: mid-season

Importance, conditions: Little significance in Austria, though plays a more important role in Germany. Sylvaner is very challenging in the vineyard and is susceptible to chlorosis in soils with high limestone content.

Wine: Brings neutral, fruity wines. Aged versions usually give a gooseberry expression.

162
Q

Jubiläumsrebe

A

Origin: Austria, LFZ Klosterneuburg

Parentage: New breed from Grauer Portugieser and Frühroter Veltliner created by Dr. Fritz Zweigelt in 1922 at the Teaching and Research Centre for Viticulture and Horticulture (LFZ) in Klosterneuburg. The variety made its public debut at the 100th anniversary celebration for the founding of the viticulture school Höheren Bundeslehr- und Versuchsanstalt für Wein- und Obstbau, Klosterneuburg. The variety’s name commemorates the occasion.

Vineyard area: 13 ha. Because there are several other varieties used for vinifying excellent Prädikat wines, this new breed never gained significance.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium, pentagonal to circular, five to seven lobes
Grape cluster: medium-sized, cylindrical and elongated, medium density; no wings; grape colour ranges from pale red to a reddish brown or grey brown; has a high sugar content

Ripening time: Late season – interesting only as a Prädikat wine

Importance, conditions: The variety is cultivated in low yields. In good sites, the grapes reach high sugar levels. High must weights are possible even through the drying of non-botrytised grapes. Has few soil demands.

Wine: Noteworthy as a Prädikat wine in the sweet wine segment. The wines have low acidity, a high residual sugar content, and are somewhat similar to the Tokaji wines from Hungary.

163
Q

Muskat Ottonel

A

Origin: France, Angers

Parentage: New breed from Gutedel (Chasselas) and Muskat de Saumur, by Jean Moreau, a private grower in Angers

Vineyard area: 360 ha, 0.8 %. Grown mainly at the Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl) in Burgenland. Surface total in vineyards is decreasing.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: small, pentagonal, five lobes, deeply-lobed
Grape cluster: small to medium, cylindrical, mostly without wings; dense with round to oval berries, greenish-yellow colour, the grape skin has a fine nutmeg taste

Ripening time: mid-season

Importance, conditions: Significant in Burgenland. To wine-growers, the variety can be difficult in the vineyard. It makes high demands on the site (warm, wind-protected) and the soil (good retention of water and nutrients). Its very sensitive flowering phase means an often irregular and low yield. It tolerates only a low limestone content in the soil and is easily susceptible to chlorosis when the weather is cool and wet.

Wine: Can yield full yet mild wines with a delicate nutmeg flavour. Highly ripe grapes can deliver mild, very supple Prädikat wines, which partner well with sweet dishes.

164
Q

Neuburger

A

Origin: Austria, Wachau. The former Neuburger memorial (now NÖ wine memorial) is a reminder of the origin of this autochthonous variety.

Parentage: Natural crossing of Roter Veltliner and Sylvaner.

Vineyard area: 652 ha, 1.4 %. The Neuburger has significance in the Wachau and the Thermenregion. Over a ten-year period (1999 - 2009) its vineyard presence decreased by 40.4%.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: large, with three to five lobes; main nerve stem is red
Grape cluster: small to medium with very tightly compact berries; cylindrical, yellow-green grapes with thick skins, spotted and fleshy.

Ripening time: early- to mid-season

Importance, conditions: The planting of this grape is heavily decreasing. There are two reasons for this: while Neuburger delivers excellent wine quality, it still cannot really compete with Grüner Veltliner; also, it can be weakened easily by disease and the vines could die. Fortunately, though, the vines have a very strong shoot growth and prefer dry, meager sites. In deep fertile soils, couloure could occur. The variety also is highly sensitive to late frosts and winter frosts, and is somewhat prone to oidium and peronospora. It is very susceptible to Botrytis – compact grape bunches are not an advantage.

Wine: Neuburger delivers mostly robust, full yet mild wines with a neutral taste. The young versions are spicy and flowery. Later a nutty flavour develops. Very good for Qualitätswein and Prädikat wines.

165
Q

Riesling (Weißer Riesling, Rheinriesling)- Austria

A

Origin: Germany, Oberrhein. The earliest documentation of the name was in 1435, in Rüsselsheim.

Parentage: Natural crossing of Weißem Heunisch, Vitis sylvestris and Traminer. The variety was probably taken from wild vines on the Oberrhein (the Upper Rhine). Roter Riesling is a red grape variation, a bud mutation of the Weißer Riesling. The Weißer Riesling is not related to the Welschriesling variety.

Vineyard area: 1,863 ha, 4.1 %

This variety was brought from the Rhine to the Danube in Austria and is now – next to the Grüner Veltliner – the most important white wine variety in the Wachau. In premium vineyard sites, especially in the wine growing regions Wachau, Kremstal, Traisental, Kamptal as well as Wien (Vienna), Wagram and Weinviertel, the Riesling yields highly ripe grapes because it is a late harvest variety. The vineyard area for Riesling increased by 13% between 1999 and 2009. In Germany, Riesling is the most widely grown white variety for all quality levels of wine.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized, circular, with five lobes, coarse surface, very hairy underside
Grape cluster: small but dense, cylindrical, shouldered, usually no wings, small yellowish-green grapes with scar marks.

Ripening time: late

Importance, conditions: Riesling is a world-known variety that, next to Grüner Veltliner, has great prominence and importance in the wine-growing regions along the Danube river and its tributaries, an area so rich in weathered primary rock soils. There’s good reason that Riesling is called the king of white wines. The late ripening grape is highly demanding in the vineyards, and is sensitive to grape stalk necrosis, stalk rot and grape Botrytis. The Botrytis is mainly undesirable - except for noble rot, for Auslese wines - because it can ruin the typical varietal aromas.

Wine: Young Riesling wines exude charming fruitiness and flavour, and can develop into great and complex wines through ageing. For these, notes of stone fruit are dominant and include peach, apricot and exotic fruits. Wines especially from the terroirs of the Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal and Traisental reflect a minerality reminiscent of slate or flint. Riesling ripens slowly and reaches the highest quality as aged wines with rose-like scent. Depending on the level of ageing, they develop a pleasurable petrol tone, something that perhaps not all wine consumers like. When the late harvest grapes are infected with noble rot, then special wines are the result – Auslesen and Beerenauslesen styles with outstanding quality.

166
Q

Müller-Thurgau (Rivaner)

A

Origin: Germany, Geisenheim Research Center

Parentage: New breed - from Riesling x Chasselas de Courtillier (=Madeleine Royale).

This variety was bred in 1882 in Geisenheim by the Swiss botanist, Hermann Müller, from the canton of Thurgau. For a long time, it was believed that Riesling and Sylvaner were the parent varieties, but eventually, genetic research provided clarity. Müller Thurgau is the oldest successful new breed spread throughout the world. The synonyms Rivaner and Riesling-Sylvaner point to the original, but incorrect, parentage information, and now the name Riesling-Sylvaner is prohibited as it is misleading.

Vineyard area: 2,102 ha, 4.6 %. This variety grows in all Austrian wine-growing regions. But between 1999 and 2009, its growth declined by 36.1%, as did its significance.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized, vesicular, circular, with five lobes, deeply lobed with twisted middle lobe
Grape cluster: medium to large; medium density; cylindrical with oval greenish-yellow berries. The fruit has a slight muscat flavour

Ripening time: early

Importance, conditions: The variety ripens very early and is therefore offered in the form of must, “Sturm” (partially fermented) and “En primeur” wine. In blends with other white varieties, Müller Thurgau is used for popular young wines, which should be drunk fresh. At the other end of the ripeness spectrum, Prädikat wines are produced – wines whose development potential are often underestimated. This variety needs deep soils with good water retention. It is very susceptible to peronospora, oidium, berry- and stem rot, Roter Brenner (Pseudopezicula tracheiphila ) and phomopsis. Compared to other varieties, more plant protection is necessary.

Wines: The variety brings early ripe, mild wines with a slight muscat taste. When the acidity is on the low side, the wines age quickly. Prädikat wines can reach a very high quality potential.

167
Q

Rotgipfler

A

Origin: Austria, Thermenregion

Parentage: Natural crossing of Traminer and Roter Veltliner, this autochthonous variety is related to Weißgipfler (synonym for Grüner Veltliner)

Vineyard area: 105 ha, 0,2 %. Found almost solely in the Thermenregion. Its cultivation is decreasing.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized; circular; five to seven lobes; veins are red; deeply lobed. A key characteristic: reddish-bronze vine shoots (thus the name Rotgipfler)
Grape cluster: medium to large; very compact juicy berries; conical; greenish yellow colour.

Ripening time: mid to late season

Importance, conditions: Only in the Thermenregion can appropriate growing conditions from climate and soil be found. Warm south-facing vineyard sites with good calcareous-based soils are necessary, otherwise shoot growth diminishes significantly. Good vigorous sites bring consistently high yields.

Wine: With strong yield limitation, the wine shows a high extract content, pleasant acidity and a fine bouquet. It tends to age slowly and is usually blended with the Zierfandler variety.

168
Q

Roter Veltliner

A

Origin: Austria, Niederösterreich

Parentage: Selected from several varieties: Weißroter, Brauner, Silberweißer Veltliner and Gelbling. Roter Veltliner is actually the original variety of the Veltliner group. As an autochthonous variety, it holds a special position amongst the Veltliners as a natural crossing partner for Neuburger, Zierfandler and Rotgipfler.

Vineyard area: 193 ha, 0.4 %. It grows in limited areas of Niederösterreich, especially in Wagram, Kamptal and Kremstal, and occasionally in the Weinviertel and Wien (Vienna). Between 1999 and 2009, its representation in vineyards decreased by 24.9 %.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: large, five lobes, deeply sinuated
Grape cluster: medium to large with very compact berries; conical conical with grapes coloured from greenish-yellow to flesh-red; thick skinned; uneven ripening.

Ripening time: late

Importance, conditions: Losing importance because the sites needed are extremely good for the Grüner Veltliner. The variety needs early warming sites with deep loess soils. During flowering, it is extremely sensitive to winter and late frosts. It is also very prone to Botrytis and peronospora. Overall, it does not have easy varietal characteristics, and this limits its growth.

Wine: Roter Veltliner is a high yielding variety, which is why yield limitation is necessary for achieving high quality versions. Then very characteristic and elegant, extract-rich wines with fine aromatics and enormous ageing potential can be created. Without yield regulation, the wines are somewhat thin and simple.

169
Q

Sauvignon Blanc

A

Origin: France, the Loire. This variety was introduced in the Steiermark in the 19th century by Archduke Johann. At that time, it was known as Muskat-Sylvaner.

Parentage: Natural crossing of Traminer and Chenin blanc.The former name (Muskat-Sylvaner) is no longer permitted for use, as it is misleading. There is no relation to any muscat or sylvaner varieties and, moreover, the Sauvignon blanc has no muscat aroma.

Vineyard area: 933 ha, 2.0 %. In Austria, growth doubled between 1999 and 2009 and continues to increase in Niederösterreich, Burgenland and the Steiermark.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: circular with five lobes, corrugated edge, round arch-shaped teeth, very hairy underside
Grape cluster: small, dense grapes; cylindrical; shouldered; round to oval greenish-yellow berries with spicy, herbal-grassy flavours

Ripening time: mid- to late-season

Importance, conditions: In the Steiermark as well as in Burgenland and Niederösterreich, outstanding top-quality wines with great ageing potential are produced.This variety needs good sites, but with rather meager soils. It is a robust variety that requires leaf maintenance. The methoxypyrazine (pepper and green pepper aromas) and marcaptane (scents of grapefruit, passion fruit and black currants) are very photosensitive and can be reduced significantly by measures such as defoliation around the grape zone. These photosensitive aromas are responsible for the characteristic smell and taste. The thicker the leaves are during the ripening period, the higher is the methoxypyrazine content. The vintner can influence this content according to the time of partial defoliation - if a green vegetative type of the variety is wanted or not. Sauvignon blanc is highly prone to peronospora and oidium.

Wine: Grown worldwide, this variety has a characteristic bouquet, which can be intrusively unripe and grassy when the grapes are not fully ripe. When the grapes have good ripeness, they develop complex aromas of black currants, gooseberries and tropical fruit. The wines develop – according to the level of maturity – from discreet to very complex. The complex versions have wonderful ageing potential especially from malolactic fermentation and barrique maturation. When the grapes are very ripe, the complex aromas retreat and a powerful, spicy wine unfolds.

170
Q

Scheurebe (Sämling 88)

A

Origin: Germany, Landesanstalt für Rebenzüchtung, Alzey

Parentage: Bred in 1916 by Georg Scheu as a “sämling”, or seedling, from Riesling (or a still unknown variety) at the Landesanstalt für Rebenzüchtung in Alzey. Scheu numbered all of his young plants consecutively, and this particular one was Seedling Number 88 – thus the name Sämling 88, a synonym for the “Scheu Vine”, or Scheurebe.

Vineyard area: 398 ha, 0.9 %. Grown mostly in Burgenland and the Steiermark. Between 1999 and 2009, the variety’s total vineyard surface in Austria dropped by 25% – therefore, its importance is in decline.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized, circular, deep-lobed
Grape cluster: medium-sized; cylindrical; shouldered; dense, round yellowish-green berries with a typical nutmeg-nuanced Sämling flavour.

Ripening time: mid-season

Importance, conditions: Waning in importance. At the Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl), the TBA, Strohwein and Schilfwein styles are vinified. Requires good vineyard sites; sturdy with a high tolerance for dryness and limestone and very resistant to winter frost.

Wine: Only fully ripe grapes bring full-bodied wines. With unripe grapes, the Sämling tone is obvious and unpleasant. When highly ripe, Prädikat wines are possible.

171
Q

Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc, Klevner)

A

Origin: France, Burgundy

Parentage: Mutation of Grauer Burgunder

Vineyard area: 1,995 ha, 4.3 %. Growth level remains unchanged. Its relative, the Chardonnay (Burgunder x Heunisch), gained more importance before and after the turn of the millennium.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized, pentagonal, with three to five lobes, not very deeply lobed
Grape cluster: medium, dense berries, cylindrical, shouldered, often with small wings. Berries are round to oval, with yellowish-green thin skin.

Ripening time: mid- to late-season

Importance, conditions: Because of its subdued character, Weissburgunder is often used for blending (cuvée) with other varieties and is sometimes vinified in small oak barriques and undergoes malolactic fermentation. In the vineyard, it demands quite a lot from soil and site. Compared to Chardonnay, Weissburgunder is more prone to Botrytis because the grapes are more compact.

Wine: Only in good vineyard sites does this variety yield the highest quality. Young wines have a blossomy expression and piquant acidity, while mature versions tend to develop bread and nut flavours. Maturation goes slowly and the highest quality is achieved after longer bottle ageing.

172
Q

Welschriesling

A

Origin: Northern Italy (Riesling italico)

Parentage: Unknown – Elbling is the most closely related variety. Welschriesling is not related to the Weißer Riesling variety

Vineyard area: 3,597 ha, 7,8 %

The versatile Welschriesling can cover almost all quality levels: from base wine for neutral, acidity-accented sparking wines (the grapes come mostly from the area around Poysdorf in the Weinviertel) to easy-drinking Buschenschank (tavern) wines from the Steiermark, to the noble sweet TBA wines from Burgenland, especially from the Seewinkel. The vineyard area planted with this grape decreased slightly between 1999 and 2009.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: with three to five lobes, smooth, serrated with sharp teeth
Grape cluster: medium length, very dense berries, conical, shouldered, with medium-large wings; round berries with thin skins; spotted; very juicy; yellowish-green colour

Ripening time: Late

Importance, conditions: The wines are very good for the production of sparkling wine, but they are also excellent for Prädikat wine as well. The quality range is very extensive. In the vineyard, Welschriesling needs early-warming sites and soils with an ample magnesium supply. The vine is very sensitive to dryness – too much can result in a lack of shoot development.

Wine: Yields wines with generous acidity and a fruity bouquet exuding notes of green apple and lemon. While dry Welschrieslings can be very fresh culinary companions, the Prädikat versions are amongst the truly great sweet wines of the world. Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese styles have a golden-yellow hue, the bouquet wafts with exotic fruit and the palate delivers a fine honey note along with the characteristic acidity.

173
Q

Zierfandler (Spätrot)

A

Origin: Austria, Thermenregion

Parentage: Natural crossing of Roter Veltliner and a Traminer-like variety

Vineyard area: 85 ha, 0.19 %. This autochthonous variety is a rarity of the Thermenregion and grown almost solely there. Cultivation is decreasing.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: large, circular, three to five lobes, hairy underside
Grape cluster: medium-sized; very dense berries; cylindrical, shouldered, sometimes with wings; round reddish colored grapes (Spätrot)

Importance, conditions: In the Thermenregion, Zierfandler (Spätrot) and Rotgipfler are often vinified as a Spätrot-Rotgipfler, either blended as cuvée or already planted, mixed together, in the vineyard. Zierfandler requires the best vineyard sites and makes few demands on the soil. It is sensitive to winter frost and very prone to Botrytis, but also is very tolerant to dryness and calcareous soils.

Wine: When the grapes are nicely ripe, the wines are rich in extract and have a pleasant acidity and subtle aromatics. In a TBA style, the bouquet exudes honey and even sherry-esque tones. Prädikat wines have excellent ageing potential.

174
Q

Blauburger

A

Origin: Austria, LFZ Klosterneuburg

Parentage: New breed from Blauer Portugieser and Blaufränkisch, created by Dr. Fritz Zweigelt in 1923 at the Teaching and Research Centre for Viticulture and Horticulture (LFZ) in Klosterneuburg.

Vineyard area: 903 ha, 2.0 %. Grows mainly in Niederösterreich, especially in the Weinviertel.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: five-lobed, overlapping petiole
Grape cluster: medium-sized; moderately compact; cylindrical, shouldered, often with wings; grapes have a frosted blueish-black colour

Ripening time: early- to mid-season

Importance, conditions: a salient feature is the deep dark colour of the wine, which makes Blauburger also a good blending partner for light-coloured red wines. While it can have a modest image as a single varietal wine, there is also a higher quality side, especially when the grapes are grown in good sites and yields are limited. Blauburger has no heavy site and soil demands.

Wine: The variety presents a wine that is extract-rich and has a very dark colour. Generally, the wines are neutral and have soft berry aromas - mostly elderberry. The palate is velvety and harmonious.

175
Q

Pinot Noir (Blauer Spätburgunder,Blauburgunder)

A

Origin: France, Burgundy

Parentage: Natural crossing from Schwarzriesling and Traminer

Vineyard area: 649 ha, 1.4 %. Pinot Noir was spread throughout the world from its home, Burgundy, and can be found nearly in all Austrian wine-growing regions.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: pentagonal; with three to five lobes; petiole is slightly overlapping
Grape cluster: small; compact, small round berries; cylindrical, grapes have a blueish-black colour and have thin skins

Ripening-time: mid- to late season

Importance, conditions: The variety is gaining importance in Austria. Its growth increased by 58.6% between 1999 and 2009. Requires good sites with deep, warm soils and ample water retention. It is extremely prone to Botrytis and easily susceptible to chlorosis.

Wine: Pinot Noir from optimal vineyard sites, with high ripeness, and through skilled vinification, can deliver high quality wines with good ageability - even despite that it is sensitive and a challenge to the winemaker in the vineyard and the cellar. Characteristically, it does not have a very dark colour. Its typical aroma is discreet with notes from red berries (strawberry, raspberry, morello cherry), forest soil and dried plums.

176
Q

Blauer Portugieser (Português Azul)

A

Origin: Portugal. This variety was brought from Porto to Vöslau by Baron von Fries at around 1770.

Parentage: An old variety from Portugal with unknown parentage. The Blauer Portugieser is identical with the variety Português Azul in Portugal.

Vineyard area: 1,622 ha, 3.5 %. Grows mainly in Niederösterreich, but is declining in significance. Its growth area decreased by 31.2% between 1999 and 2009.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: circular, with five to seven lobes.
Grape cluster: medium-sized; compact berries; conical, shouldered, sometimes with small wings; oval grapes with blueish-black colour.

Ripening time: early- to mid-season

Importance, conditions: The Blauer Portugieser is important in the Thermenregion and the northwestern Weinviertel.Its proneness to winter frost, Botrytis, oidium and peronospora make production difficult.

Wine: Higher yields bring simple, neutral and light-coloured red wines that mature and age quickly. Good vintages and yield limitation allow Blauer Portugieser to deliver strong and extract-rich red wines.

177
Q

Blauer Wildbacher

A

Origin: Austria, Wildbach, Steiermark

Parentage: natural seedling from the Heunisch variety. This autochthone grape is closely related to the Blaufränkisch variety.

Vineyard area: 450 ha, 1.0 %. It is grown only in the Steiermark, especially the Weststeiermark. For the production of Schilcher, only the Blauer Wildbacher variety from the Steiermark is permitted.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: The full-gown leaf is wedge-shaped; three to five lobes
Grape cluster: small, with compact berries; conical, shouldered, often with wings; roundish blue-black grapes and a neutral to grassy taste

Ripening time: very late

Importance, conditions: Although its vineyard presence is very small, this grape is nevertheless very well-known for its rosé-style wine - a Steiermark speciality called Schilcher. With its pink to onion skin colour, the Schilcher is vinified just like a rosé. The variety demands the best vineyard sites. It is sensitive to late frosts and highly prone to oidium and peronospora.

Wine: Racy acidity as well as a distinctive aroma and taste characterize the fruity-fresh, robust wine - which can be enjoyed also as an aperitif. In gneiss and slate soils, the variety achieves a grassy and spicy expression. Prädikat and ice wines are also made from the Blauer Wildbacher, just as well red wines.

178
Q

Zweigelt (Blauer Zweigelt, Rotburger)

A

Origin: Austria, LFZ Klosterneuburg

Parentage: New breed from St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch, created by Dr. Fritz Zweigelt in 1922 at the Teaching and Research Centre for Viticulture and Horticulture (LFZ) in Klosterneuburg.

Vineyard area: 6,476 ha, 14.1 %. In order to ensure widespread growth of this variety, Lenz Moser planted it extensively and utilised his Hochkultur (high culture) training system for it. At the end of the last century, when red wine variety plantings began to increase, the Blauer Zweigelt represented the biggest share of reds in the vineyards. Between 1999 and 2009, its vineyard surface coverage increased by 48.9%.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: Circular to pentagonal, three to five lobes
Grape cluster: medium-sized; compact; cylindrical, with wings; round, blue-black coloured grapes

Ripening time: mid-season

Importance, conditions: As the most widespread red wine variety in Austria, Zweigelt grows in favourable sites in all of the country’s wine regions. The wine spectrum ranges from young-drinking, non-wood-matured versions to strong, firm wines from the barrique. The variety is also often used as a partner for cuvée wines. Big wines especially from Carnuntum and around the Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl) are vinified.The variety demands little from the soil but, because it is a very fertile grape, requires intensive leaf work and yield regulation. If there is potassium deficiency, high yield stress and a series of other stress factors (such as water and nutrient stress, waterlogging, imbalanced leaf to fruit ratio, extreme temperatures) the grapes wither during the ripening phase. Reasons for this have not yet been sufficiently explored and clarified. Wine cannot be produced from withered grapes.

Wine: The variety brings slightly violet-reddish coloured wines with soft tannins. Mature, full-bodied and long-living wines deliver tones of morello cherry. High-quality wines are matured also in barriques.

179
Q

Blaufränkisch

A

Origin: Austria. This variety was first documented in the 18th century in Austria. At that time, in what was then Germany, it had the name of Lemberger or Limberger, which was derived from the town of Limberg – today Maissau – in Niederösterreich. In Hungary known as Kékfrankos.

Parentage: Natural crossing of the Heunisch variety and an unknown grape (probably a mutation of the Blauer Groben). Blaufränkisch was used as a crossing partner for Austrian new breeds like Zweigelt, Blauburger, Roesler and Rathay. Even breeding stations abroad used the variety for crossings.

Vineyard area: 3,225 ha, 7.0 %. An autochthone variety, Blaufränkisch is found especially in the wine-growing regions of northern, middle and southern Burgenland as well as in eastern Niederösterreich.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: large; five lobes; coarse teeth
Grape cluster: large, conical and V-shaped; moderately compact; round blueish-black grapes

Ripening time: Late

Importance, conditions: It is the leading variety in Südburgenland (Eisenberg), Mittelburgenland (Blaufränkischland) and at Leithaberg. These regions deliver origin-typical DAC-wines. In Niederösterreich, the area of Carnuntum is also known for its excellent Blaufränkisch wines. The variety is highly demanding of its vineyard site. Coulure easily occurs if the weather is cool during the flowering period.

Wine: The typical palate of this late ripening variety is characterized by deep wood berry or cherry tones, and reveals its characteristic acidity. Blaufränkisch can yield wines with dense structure and prominent tannins. The wines are often impetuous in their youth, but develop velvety facets when sufficiently ripe. Fuller, stronger versions have good ageing potential.

180
Q

Cabernet Franc

A

Origin: France, Bordeaux

Parentage: Selected from wild vines. Cabernet Franc is a very old grape variety. Its natural crossing with Sauvignon blanc created Cabernet Sauvignon.

Vineyard area: 56 ha, 0.1 %. The variety has been registered as an Austrian Qualitätswein variety since 1986, and can be found in Burgenland and Niederösterreich.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: five to seven lobes - deeply lobed
Grape cluster: medium-sized; moderately compact, conical; either small wings or none at all; with round, oval and blueish-black coloured grapes

Ripening time: very late

Importance, conditions: Except for its presence in some large vineyard areas of Burgenland, Cabernet Franc is seldom found in Austria. This variety is joined by Merlot in the making of Bordeaux wines. It is a sturdy variety suitable for growth in meager soils, but requires very good vineyard sites especially because it ripens late in the season.

Wine: Compared to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc provides lighter, less powerful wines with a lighter bouquet and body. It is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and matured in barriques. Unripe grapes yield grassy, greenish-tasting wines.

181
Q

Cabernet Sauvignon

A

Origin: France, Bordeaux

Parentage: natural crossing of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc

Vineyard area: 594 ha, 1.3 %. Cabernet Sauvignon has been authorized as an Austrian Qualitätswein variety since 1986. This grape was brought to Austria in the 1980s as part of the international variety “invasion”. The classic international Cabernet regions are still Bordeaux and California, but there are others, including Maremma in Italy.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: circular, with five to seven lobes; deeply incised; petiole is overlapping; moderately hairy underside
Grape cluster: medium-sized; conical; loose to moderately compact berries; has wings; grapes are round with a blueish-black colour

Ripening time: very late

Importance, conditions: Cabernet Sauvignon is appreciated as a single variety wine or as part of a cuvée blend. While it has no strong soil demands, an excellent vineyard site is key. Early, warm sites are necessary so that unripe, grassy wines are not made. Because it is a high yield variety, yield regulation is necessary for good quality.

Wine: As a young wine, it is fruity and somewhat “rough-edged” with strong tannins and a powerful bouquet. A good Cabernet Sauvignon improves during ageing with delicate roasted tones and expressions of black currant, and often liquorice and green pepper. As a late-ripening variety, it must be planted in warm sites, otherwise the wines will likely show a grassy or green pepper spice character. The wines need a longer development time so that the tannins can ripen. Only when aged for a good amount of time does the wine reach its peak. Maturing in barriques is practically obligatory – it complements the variety perfectly.

182
Q

Merlot

A

Origin: France, Bordeaux

Parentage: natural crossing of Caberbet Franc and an unknown variety

Vineyard area: 649 ha, 1.4 %. Merlot has been authorized as an Austrian Qualitätswein variety since 1986, and it is grown in nearly all wine-growing regions except the Steiermark. The great wines from this variety come from France - the right bank Bordeaux appellations St. Emilion and Pomerol.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: conical; seven-lobed; petiole is slightly open with U-shaped base
Grape cluster: elongated, with loose to somewhat compact berries; conical, with wings; grapes are small and blueish-black in colour

Ripening time: mid to late season

Importance, conditions: Merlot wines are smoother than Cabernet Sauvignon wines because the Merlot gives less tannin and acidity. This variety is often used as a cuvée partner or is vinified as a single variety wine. It needs good soils, and is sensitive to late frost as well as to coulure when the weather is cool during the flowering phase. Its yields are inconsistent, and it requires yield regulation.

Wine: Only with high ripeness and a long maturation period do the wines present generous fruit, soft extract sweetness and round, harmonious tannins. Highly ripe wines have really good ageing potential. If the grapes are not fully ripe, then there is a possibility of the wines having a grassy green character.

183
Q

Rathay

A

Origin: Austria, LFZ Klosterneuburg

Parentage: New breed from the Klosterneuburg 1189-9-77 (= Seyve Villard 18-402 x Blaufränkisch) and Blauburger; by Dr.Gertrude Mayer, LFZ Klosterneuburg.

Vineyard area: 9 ha. Registered as a quality grape variety since 2000, and is one of the PIWI varieties.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized, conical to pentagonal; five lobes
Grape cluster: medium-sized; moderately compact berries; cylindrical, with wings; the grapes are dark blue to black in colour

Ripening time: mid-early season

Importance, conditions: Because of its robust colour, this variety is used also as a blending partner. It is partially resistant to oidium and peronospora. It is resistant to winter frost.

Wine: The deep, dark wines are full-bodied, and rich in extract and tannins. They are ready to drink early on.

184
Q

Roesler

A

Origin: Austria, LFZ Klosterneuburg

Parentage: New breed from Blauer Zweigelt and Klosterneuburg 1189-9-77 (= Seyve Villard 18-402 x Blaufränkisch); by Dr.Gertrude Mayer, LFZ Klosterneuburg.

Vineyard area: 161 ha, 0.4 %. This variety has been registered as a quality grape variety since 2000, and is one of the PIWI varieties.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: large; five to seven lobes with a heavily blistered surface
Grape cluster: with loose, large grapes; conical; shouldered; and 1-2 wings with small, round blueish-black berries

Ripening time: mid-early season

Importance, conditions: Because of its strong colour, the Roessler variety is used as a blending partner. It is a partially resistant to oidium and peronospora and completely resistant to winter frost.

Wine: Brings red wine with a characteristic forest berry aroma. The colourful grapes yield extremely dark wines - rich in extract, body and tannins.

185
Q

St Laurent

A

Origin: Austria, Niederösterreich. Growth nurtured by Stift Klosterneuburg.

Parentage: Natural Burgunder seedling. St. Laurent was named after St. Lawrence Day - August 10th – the day when the grapes begin to change colour.

Vineyard area: 778 ha, 1.7 %. This autochthone variety is found mainly in the Thermenregion and in northern Burgenland. Its growth increased by 87.5% between 1999 and 2009.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized; five-lobed, wavy
Grape cluster: medium-sized; compact berries; cylindrical, with wings; oval grapes with a blueish-black colour

Ripening time: mid-early season

Importance, conditions: With its somewhat low yield, the variety is considered difficult in the vineyard. It was not always appreciated. Needs good sites with deep soils. It is sensitive during the flowering period, and sensitive to late frost. It brings inconsistent yields.

Wine: St. Laurent delivers dark, sturdy and fruity red wines with morello cherry notes. They are of high quality and have good ageability.

186
Q

Syrah

A

Origin: France, Rhone Valley

Parentage: natural crossing of Dureza and Mondeuse blanche

Vineyard area: 137 ha, 0.3 %. Registered as a quality variety since 2001. This grape is grown around the world and stakes importance in the warm red wine growing regions in all of the continents.

Important ampelographic features
Leaf: medium-sized; five lobes; slightly sinuated
Grape cluster: medium-sized; compact, cylindrical, with wings; small berries with thin skins, blueish-black colour; very fragrant and juicy

Ripening time: late

Importance, conditions: Syrah is appreciated as a single variety red wine and as a blend in cuvées.It is sensitive to frost and is suitable only for very early warming sites. Because of its rather high yields, yield regulation is in order.

Wine: Delivers deep red, tannin-rich wines from grapes with full physiological ripeness - from low yielding vines growing in very good sites. The grapes typically exude aromas of violets and mignonette. Long maturation time and ageing are optimal for high quality wines.

187
Q

Niederösterreich (Lower Austria)- Niederösterreich (27,128 ha) - Great wines along the Danube

A

Niederösterreich is Austria’s largest quality-wine-growing area. This designation stands for a big variety of different wine styles of international and indigenous grape varieties with Grüner Veltliner covering 44%. There are eight specific wine-growing regions in Niederösterreich, stretching from the Wachau in the west to Carnuntum in the east. These can be divided into three major climatic zones: the Weinviertel in the north, the region along the river Danube, with its adjoining valleys to the west of Vienna, and the warmer Pannonian part in the south-east of Niederösterreich. The extensive Weinviertel region made headlines in 2003, after the region decided to market its signature variety, the peppery Grüner Veltliner, using the term Weinviertel. Since then, the Weinviertel DAC designation on the label guarantees having a peppery-spiced, fresh style of Veltliner in the wine glass. More powerful wines come under the Weinviertel Reserve designation. The Weinviertel’s wide range of fresh, aromatic white wines, fruit-driven red wines and even dessert wines now bear the Niederösterreich designation of origin. Along the Danube, from Melk in the west downstream to Klosterneuburg to the east, passing the Kamp, Traisen and Krems tributaries, are picturesque wine villages lined like pearls on a necklace. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are the flaghship wines of this area with both varietiesdisplaying their regional typicity also in Kremstal DAC, Kamptal DAC and Traisental DAC. The steep crystalline slopes of the Wachau evolve into loess terraces towards the eastern part of the adjacent Kremstal, which and also form the character of the wines in parts of Traisental and Kamptal, but particularly in Wagram, where Roter Veltliner has become another regional asset alongside Grüner Veltliner. In Kamptal, the wines contain a distinctive touch, particularly on the Heiligenstein, with its conglomerate and carbonate-free soil. In this part of Niederösterreich, the range of wines are rounded off with specialities like the Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Chardonnay as well as a select range of elegant red wines. Pannonian Niederösterreich refers to the region situated south and east of Vienna, and is home to some of Austria’s most exciting and outstanding red wines. Both Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch thrive in Carnuntum and St. Laurent is the speciality in the Thermenregion. Yet there is much more on offer, with regional white wine specialities Zierfandler and Rotgipfler flourishing around the wine town of Gumpoldskirchen, and Pinot Noir as well as modern blends are becoming increasingly important. Hence Niederösterreich offers the diversity in the big land of great wines.

188
Q

Carnuntum- Historic sites. Zweigelt with vigor

A

Archeologists have been excavating the rich soils of Carnuntum for Roman ancient cultural remains for decades now. Equally remarkable as their findings is the 910 hectares of prime and fertile soil for red wines that reflect regional typicity. The ‘Rubin Carnuntum’ wine is produced by a selection of the region’s dynamic producers. With the image of the Roman Heidentor (Heathen’s Gate) imprinted on its label, it is a recognition of the region’s cultural history. The Carnuntum wine-region stretches from Vienna in the west to the border of the Slovak Republic in the east. The vineyards are spread out over three principal hilltops and lie south of the Danube, these being the Leithagebirge (Leitha mountain ridge), the Arbesthaler Hügelland (hillside around Arbesthal) and the Hainburger Berge (mountain range around Hainburg). The soil structures consist mostly of dense loam and loess and sandy gravels, that offer the best conditions for red wine production, particularly the widely planted indigenous Blauer Zweigelt, along with the international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Even Blaufränkisch is favoured by producers, with some great wines coming from the Spitzerberg vineyards towards the east of the region. The Pannonian, continental-like climate typically brings hot summers and cold winters, an influence that in combination with the moderating effects of the nearby Danube and Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl) enable the grapes to reach full physiological maturity. A new generation of local winemakers have learnt how to capitalise on this advantage, and are producing modern, approachable red wines with precise fruit and elegance, yet have retained their individuality and origin. These factors have given Carnuntum a highly regarded name for wine within a comparitively short space of time. White wines are also playing an increasingly important role here, particularly Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, that excel with their balanced structure and weight. The wine-growing villages of Göttlesbrunn, Höflein and Prellenkirchen, well-known for their idyllic Buschenschank offering local food and wine, have always been sought-after destinations, particularly for day-trippers from nearby Vienna. Yet increasingly more people are making a special trip to a ever-growing list of critically acclaimed restaurants, especially as the local Carnuntum wines, prominent on all wine lists, pair so well with the regional cuisine.

189
Q

Kamptal- Grüner Veltliner and Riesling - millions of years young

A

Kamptal gets its name from the river Kamp, that flows directly through it, and is also home to Austria’s largest wine-producing town, Langenlois. With a vineyard area of 3,802 hectares, Kamptal is one of the most successful wine regions in Austria, and boasts a high proportion of outstanding, quality wine producers. Culture and tourism also play a significant role and effective from the 2008 vintage, the Kamptal DAC defines wines made from Grüner Veltliner or Riesling in two styles, a classic-styled medium-bodied wine and a rich, opulent dry Reserve style. Kamptal boasts a variety of terroir, ranging from loess to gravel to crystalline sites and red feldspathic sandstones and conglomerates, as on the highly regarded Heiligenstein. The geological development of the rock is rather special, is between 320 and 250 million year olds, formed desert-like conditions as a flashflood deposit and includes volcanic particles. Along the steep terraces of the south-facing slopes, that in places are so steep that no layers of loess can form a hold, Riesling vines are planted, producing powerful, mineral wines with exceptional aging potential. Moving southwards towards the Danube, there is a change in the soil structure to wider loess and loam terraces as offering the perfect conditions for traditional, but also full-bodied Grüner Veltiner, as well as the red and white Pinot varieties and Zweigelt. These wines are marketed under the designation of “Niederösterreich”. Kamptal has the effects of the hot, Pannonian plain heat from the east and the cooler Waldviertel region towards the north west. The fine, delicate aromatics and retained naturally vibrant acidity in the grapes, is due to this unique combination of warm days and cool nights. Other important wine-growing towns within a short distance of Langenlois are Schiltern, Gobelsburg, Haindorf and Zöbing, and the important wine commune of Straß im Straßertale. Smaller wine villages include Etsdorf, Hadersdorf, Kammern, Lengenfeld and Schönberg.

190
Q

Kremstal- The High Culture of Wine

A

The 2,243 hectares of vineyards in Kremstal are divided into three different zones, starting with rocky soils in the original Kremstal river valley and the historic town of Krems, along with Stein that joins the Wachau in the west, then moving on to the deep loess cover towards the east of Krems, and finally the southern bank of the Danube opposite Krems, around the magnificent Stift Göttweig monastery. Kremstal DAC was introduced in 2007 and stands for the vibrant and spicy Grüner Veltliner and for delicate, mineral-rich Riesling wines. Kremstal DAC wines are available either as in classic fresh medium-bodied styles or as rich, more intense Reserve wines. The culturally rich and historic town of Krems has always had an affinity with wine production with a long and traditional viticultural heritage. he town of Krems, especially the part called “Stein”, is geologically similar to the neighbouring Wachau (mostly weathered bedrock soils). It is therefore not surprising that both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling dominate, and wines with these mineral qualities are also found in Senftenberg, as well as in the quaint wine villages along the banks of the small river Krems. The vineyards to the east of Krems, towards the villages of Rohrendorf and Gedersdorf, have a completely different soil structure of deep loess terraces. This not only adds a certain appeal to the landscape, it also produces a softer, more opulent style of Veltliner. Beyond the southern bank of the Danube are the idyllic wine villages of Furth, Palt, Krustetten, Hollenburg, Oberfucha and Tiefenfucha, lying beneath the monumental Benedictine Stift Göttweig monastery, which was founded in 1072. ontrary to Krems, there is a real down to earth feeling here, preserved by the quaint ‘Heuriger’ wine taverns. As with the Wachau and Kamptal wine-growing regions, Kremstal also has its fair share of special climatic conditions, with cool, humid northern breezes from nearby Waldviertel coliding with warm, dry eastern winds from the Pannonian plain. Mouthwatering and elegant white Grüner Veltliner and Riesling wines, but also Weißburgunder and supple, expressive red wines are typical for this historic wine-growing region on the banks of the majestic Danube, that apart from wine, has a great deal of other culinary aspects and winetourism attractions on offer.

191
Q

Thermenregion- Wines with a History. Wines with a Future.

A

The Thermenregion wine-growing region was formed as part of the 1985 wine law, when the districts of Gumpoldskirchen and Bad Vöslau were amalgamated. The 2,196 hectares of vines stretch from the edge of the Wienerwald forests, around the outskirts of Vienna and southwards along a range of hills and the Anninger mountain (675m) to beyond the town of Baden. In the northern part, around the village of Gumpoldskirchen, white wine thrives with the indigenous Zierfandler (or Spätrot) and Rotgipfler varieties, whereas red wines produced from Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir are predominant in the more southerly vineyards. Vines have been cultivated in this climatically favourable region south of Vienna for over 2,000 years. Roman legionnaires stationed in Carnuntum and Vindobona (in today’s Vienna) introduced viticulture into the Pannonian region and cultivated vines brought from their own countries. The Thermenregion takes its name from the thermal, sulphuric water springs from ‘Thermae Pannonicae’, or today’s Baden. The Cistercian monks revitalised viticulture during the Middle Ages, and the design of the vineyard sites, as well as the character of the villages, visibly resemble the Citeaux Abbey of the Cistercians in Burgundy. The Cistercian monks were viticultural experts in their own right, and recognised and made use of the region’s unique terroir. The vines benefit from the effects of the Pannonian climate, with its hot summer and dry autumns, and an average of 1,800 hours of sunshine during the year. During the autumn, there is a continuous circulation of air in the grape vines, rapidly drying the berries after dew or rain. Loamy soil derived from fine-grained deposits dominates, however, areas with increased coarse fraction are common. These are mainly consolidated or unconsolidated gravel and sand with a high carbonate content and fossil remains of mussels, snails and other marine creatures. Talus deposits encourage drainage and retain warmth. The Steinfeld vineyard, with its barren gravel soils, offers the perfect prerequisites for fine red wines. The region is home to white grape varieties rarely found elsewhere, and the Zierfandler (Spätrot) and Rotgipfler varieties can be vinified individually or as the legendary blend known as Spätrot-Rotgipfler. Other traditionally cultivated varieties include the Blauer Portugieser (or Vöslauer) along with Neuburger, and more modern wines are cultivated using the Pinot varieties, St. Laurent and Zweigelt, as well as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Red wine-producing villages include Bad Vöslau, Sooß, Tattendorf and Teesdorf, whereas the traditional white wine-growing areas are around Perchtoldsdorf, Gumpoldskirchen, Pfaffstätten, Baden, Guntramsdorf and Traiskirchen. The combination of nature and culture offer a wide selection of excursions and activities, including a visit to the Freigut Thallern, (founded by the Cistercian monks of Heiligenkreuz Abbey, and being one of the oldest wineries in Austria). Or perhaps a cultural visit to the spa-town of Baden, with its theatres, operettas, health spas (with grape treatment on offer as well) to a drive along the romantic ‘Weinstraße’, the road that meanders through the vineyards, making a stop at one of the many cosy ‘Heuriger’ wine taverns, or to take a hike up to the hilltops along the original Viennese Imperial water pipeline (I. Wiener Hochquellenleitung).

192
Q

Traisental- Aromatic Grüner Veltliner. With Backbone and Finesse

A

Traisental is the most recent addition to the viticultural map of Austria, and with a mere 790 hectares is amongst the smallest wine-growing regions. Big however, are the wines, particularly Grüner Veltliner. The quaint wine villages still contain the long-established tradition of Buschenschanken wine taverns, and the larger towns, such as Traismauer and Herzogenburg offer a fine glimpse into the region’s history. The Traisental DAC designation was introduced from the 2006 vintage, and is applicable for fruity and spicy Grüner Veltliners and impressive Rieslings with mineral characters. Grüner Veltliner represents the greatest proportion of planted varieties with a share of 60 percent, more than any other Austrian wine-growing region. Riesling is also a significant speciality of Traisental. The vines are predominantly planted on narrow terraces with arid, very calcareous gravel soils, giving the wines quite a unique tasting profile, with a full body and compact structure. The mineral structure supports the flavour and vibrant acidity, giving the wines a long aging potential. The specific climatic factors, where the Pannonian plain influences meet the cool breezes from the Alps result in warm days and cool nights, the perfect recipe for precise and delicate aromas and elegant spice. The Traisental is also a popular destination for wine enthusiasts, hikers, cyclists and those interested in culture. It is here that evidence of grape pips, dating back as early as the Bronze Age, well before any Roman influence, were discovered and confirm an ancient form of viticulture. Furthermore, the nearby town of St. Pölten (capital of the federal state of Niederösterreich) offers a wealth of modern cultural entertainment, and from this most southerly point of Traisental, there is a countless number of picturesque roads leading to idyllic wine and ‘Heuriger’ villages, such as Statzendorf, Unterwölbling, Oberwölbling, Nußdorf, Reichersdorf, Getzersdorf and Inzersdorf up to Stollhofen, Frauendorf and Gemeinlebarn. A new generation of dynamic winemakers recognise the importance of Traisental DAC as being the signature wines for the region. These wineries play a vital role in making this matchless style famous beyond the boundaries of Austria, into new export markets and introducing it to international wine critics and discerning journalists.

193
Q

Wachau- Steep Terraces. Noble Grapes. Monumental Wines.

A

The Wachau is a UNESCO world heritage site and region of natural beauty, and lies in the Danube valley between the towns of Melk and Krems. The varieties Grüner Veltliner and Riesling prevail on 1,350 hectares, partly on very steep-inclined terraces. The best vineyard sites produce some of the best white wine in the world with decades of aging potential. In the mid-1980’s, a select group of innovative producers in the Wachau created their own codex, aptly called the Vinea Wachau, where dry white wines are divided into three categories, based on their natural alcohol content by volume. Aromatic, light-bodied wines up to 11.5% are called ‘Steinfeder’ (named after the tall, feather-like grass stipa pennata). The most common category is the ‘Federspiel’, with 11.5% to 12.5% alcohol by volume, and the late-harvest, rich and powerful, dry wines carry the term ‘Smaragd’. The Wachau is one of Austria’s most exciting and fascinating wine regions. Over millions of years, the Danube has gorged its winding waterway through the consolidated gneiss and amphibolite. The crystalline rock soils on steep terraces produce outstanding Rieslings. During the Ice Age vegetation cover was poor and, prevailing winds carried drifting sand that settled in the lee of the east-facing crystalline hillsides, resulting in layers of loess. This is where great, opulent and expressive Grüner Veltliner is cultivated. The extremely diverse geological terrain, coupled with the construction of terraces in the best aspects, and the cultivation of vines on these steep inclines by the Bavarian monasteries during the Middle Ages, has resulted in a spectacular and unique Wachau landscape. The climate also plays a vital role, and two major climatic influences, the western Atlantic and the eastern Pannonian, interlock with each other. Furthermore, each single vineyard has its own microclimate, depending of its incline, exposure to the sun, soil terrain, as well as factors as the dry stone walls and cliffsides that absorb the sun’s heat during the day. The effects of the hot, dry summer and the harsh winter are evened out by the influence of the river Danube, and cool evening breezes from the more northerly Waldviertel region increase the diurnal effect of day and night temperatures during the important months prior to the harvest. It is thanks to this subtle factor that the fine and precise aromatics of grapes can develop, be in the cooler vineyards in Spitz or the warmer sites in Loibenberg. This character often gives the wine a cool fruit flavour with subtle tropical fruit notes, ranging from the lean, light-bodied Steinfeder, through the lean.structured Federspiel and the rich style of the Smaragd.Alongside Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, the sovereign varieties with exceptional cellaring potential, the indigenous Neuburger, along with Gelber Muskateller (Muscat blanc) and Sauvignon blanc, offer an exquisite taste sensation.

194
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Wagram- Grüner Veltliner craves Loess

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The wine-growing region of Wagram received its new name in 2007, previously being known as Donauland. The 2,451 hectares of vines are planted in two distinct zones; to the north and to the south of the Danube. The northern, actual Wagram part, is a massive terrain that stretches some 30km along the northern bank of the Danube as far as Kamptal, and the areas towards the south, encompasses the quaint villages around the Tullnerfeld region as well as the historic wine town of Klosterneuburg, just outside Vienna. The extensive geological features coupled with consistent weather and climatic patterns offer the prerequisites for producing full-bodied wines rich in aroma and flavour. Layers of loess formed in the Ice Age cover the substrate of marine deposits and river gravels (the name Wagram comes from “Wogenrain” meaning “shore”) and shape the landscape. The Grüner Veltliner in particular, benefits with maturing hearty and spicy wines, with substance and drinking pleasure in the classic and dry styles, as well as the rich, characterful Reserves. The indigenous speciality Roter Veltliner provides long lasting wines and underlines the unique qualities of the region and its genuine natural resources. Leading producers will also cultivate some of the most opulent, full-bodied red wines in Niederösterreich, especially from the Zweigelt and Pinot Noir varieties, and the environmentally conscious commune of Grossriedenthal rounds off the range of wines with some outstanding Eiswein (ice wines). The self-confidence of successful producers rubs off on the whole Wagram region, motivating them to further improve quality, supported by tourism and highly rated restaurants. The quality has improved greatly, and Wagram is no longer considered an insider’s tip, and the villages of Feuersbrunn, Fels, Kirchberg (with its vinotheque Weritas and a wide selection of Wagram wines) and Großriedenthal have long become firmly established as the destination of quality-orientated producers.

195
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Klosterneuburg: Wine, enjoyment and culture

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The country’s largest privately owned winery, Stift Klosterneuburg, has played a formative role in Austrian wine. With a modern management and a contemporary technological infrastructure, this example will be used as a role model for the future, along with the Bundeslehranstalt für Wein und Obstbau (Federal institute for viticulture and pomology), the world’s first viticultural and oenology school (founded in 1860), and today is a leading wine institution with internationally recognised standards for future winemaking generations. The wineries of Klosterneuburg cover a wide range of viticultural activities, from the small, family owned Heuriger to the large Sekt, or sparkling wine producers, all at the doorstep of Austria’s capital city Vienna.

196
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Weinviertel- Where the “Pfefferl” Grows

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Austrian wine enthusiasts know the Weinviertel. But nowadays the largest Austrian wine growing region is slowly gaining also international recognition. With a vineyard area of 13,356 hectares, the success of Weinviertel is down to Grüner Veltliner and the regionally typical Weinviertel DAC and Weinviertel DAC Reserve wines. The vast Weinviertel stretches from the Danube in the south to the Czech border in the north, and from the Manhartsberg in the west to the border of Slovakia in the east. Yet Weinviertel is not just about Grüner Veltliner, there are a wealth of other grape varieties. The region can be divided up into three sub-regions, based on their geological aspects and climatic conditions. A highlight of the western part of Weinviertel is the area around the historic wine-trading town of Retz, with its labyrinth of underground wine cellars. The dry micro-climate here always has favoured red wine making as well. In the Pulkautal - around the villages of Jetzelsdorf and Haugsdorf - and in the extensive Mailberg basin area, fruit-toned Zweigelt and Blauer Portugieser are thriving. For lovers of white wine, the anchor point is another “island”, but this one features granite, around Röschitz, where Grüner Veltliner and Riesling grow with a remarkable finesse. The winemakers in the northeastern part of the Weinviertel, around Poysdorf, focus especially on spicy Veltliners, fresh Welschrieslings and weighty Burgundy wines. The northern border of the Weinviertel, toward Moravia, reveals the limestone cliffs of Staatz and Falkenstein, which have excellent conditions for fruit-toned, minerally wines. Herrnbaumgarten and Schrattenberg, villages to the north of Poysdorf, were predestined for their outstanding red wines thanks to the area’s vineyard basin site. Further south east, along the edge of the Marchfeld around the village of Mannersdorf an der March, the climatic effects of the warm Pannonian climate are felt, which in combination with the Morava river (the Austrian name is ‘March’, referring to the river that flows into the Danube), offer optimal growing conditions for Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, the Pinot varieties, as well as the aromatic Traminer, from dry to luscious dessert wines. After Mannersdorf, the journey back to Vienna passes through the wine-growing town of Wolkersdorf, and great Rieslings with pronounced aromas also grow close to the political boundary with Vienna, on the steep inclines of the Bisamberg hillsides.

197
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Burgenland- Burgenland (13,840 ha) - Powerful wines from the land of sunshine

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Full-bodied and rich red wines are produced under the influence of the hot, continental Pannonian climate, in the eastern region of Burgenland. Within this area, there are many distinctions that play an equally important role. For example, the Eisenberg hill in the most southerly part of Burgenland, enjoys a complex soil structure and touch of refreshing climatic influences from neighbouring Steiermark, that provide ideal growing conditions for Blaufränkisch and other red wine varieties with fine mineral characters and unmatched elegance. The dense loam soils of Mittelburgenland and the area around Pöttelsdorf north of the Rosaliagebirge produce Blaufränkisch with particularly deep fruit and exceptional length. In Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, on the west shores of Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl), the variety produces wines with expressive minerality and gripping tannins. he soils on the east-facing slopes of the Leithagebirge (Leitha mountain range) consist principally of limestone and slate, providing a unique terroir for Blaufränkisch, yet also for complex white wines, especially Weißburgunder, Chardonnay and Grüner Veltliner. Exceptional dessert wines, such as the legendary Ruster Ausbruch, complete the range of Burgenland’s wine-producing competence. The indigenous Blauer Zweigelt variety tends to dominate on the eastern shores of Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl), where it produces powerful and juicy red wines, along with Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, and the region of Seewinkel enjoys a unique microclimate, giving it the reputation as being one of the best places in the world to produce high quality noble sweet wines. A high amount of humidity is naturally created by the large lake along with a countless number of smaller, shallow lakes around the vineyards, encouraging the development of noble rot (botrytis cineria) during the autumn, enabling the production of great Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese dessert wines. Cherished varieties for these delicious wines include Chardonnay, Scheurebe, Traminer and Welschriesling, the latter having the potential to produce exceptional quality levels. The innovative and pioneering wine producers in Burgenland are the regions biggest asset and most certainly the reason behind their successful wine economy. This is often why their wines have received so many awards and accolades in recent years, even with international varieties and full-bodied red wine blends. Effective from the 2005 vintage, Mittelburgenland DAC was the first wine in Burgenland to be given DAC status, and has since been joined by Leithaberg DAC and Eisenberg DAC. With the introduction of Neusiedlersee DAC in March 2012, the family of DAC’s in Burgenland is now completed.

198
Q

Eisenberg (Südburgenland)- Zesty Blaufränkisch

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This is probably the most unspoilt wine landscape of Burgenland, with some 498 hectares of vineyards stretching from the town of Rechnitz in the north, to Güssing in the south. Authentic red wines are produced here, predominantly from Blaufränkisch, that display subtle mineral spicy notes, but there are also vibrant and elegant white wines, along with the unique and quirky wine speciality, the Uhudler. There are many surprising aspects of Südburgenland, the most common being the structure of the wineries. The majority are hobby winemakers, or supplement their income with another job or profession, and only a small number of the larger producers cultivate the small vineyard area. Much of the wine produced will be sold through the local Buschenschank wine taverns, and it cannot be disputed that the region regards itself as being a ‘Weinidylle’, or idyllic for wine. The effects of the Pannonian climate is felt, along with the some climatic influences from the neighbouring Steiermark. Especially the Eisenberg hill is historically significant and, together with the vineyard of Deutsch-Schützen, it has become the central point of the region. Crstalline rocks occur on the slopes and in the lowlands silty clays form the basis of the varied loam soils, that give the Blaufränkisch wines an elegant note. The result is a unique, individual and truly unconventional wine that perfectly reflects its terroir; the vineyard site, soils and climate. The masters of these wines can be found around the village of Deutsch-Schützen. The region-typical Blaufränkisch has been authorised to carry the Eisenberg DAC designation from the 2009 vintage (Eisenberg DAC Reserve effective from the 2008 vintage). Crisp and fruity white wines from the Welschriesling and Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc) varieties are produced along the towns of Rechnitz in the north and Moschendorf in the south. A wide variety of interesting wines are furthermore vinified in the idyllic surroundings of the Csaterberg vineyards near the town of Kohfidisch, as well as along the Pinkatal wine road from the Winten vineyards to the Kulm and Gaas sites. In the most southerly point, around the villages of Heiligenbrunn and Moschendorf, the Uhudler, a particular speciality made from hybrid vines. Its pungent aroma of wild strawberries has resulted in the wine being surprisingly popular. Südburgenland remains an insider’s tip, far from the overcrowded traditional wine-growing towns. However, there is a spirit of optimism amongst the younger generation of winemakers, particularly as the thermal health spa resorts, along with the festivals held in the Burg Güssing castle bring the tourists to the region, without jeopardising the peaceful, idyllic wine landscape.

199
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Leithaberg (Neusiedlersee-Hügelland)- Minerality in White, Red and Sweet

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The Leithagebirge, or Leitha mountain range, is the region for versatile wine producers, as no other wine-growing regions offers such diversity of wine styles. The 3,576 hectares are planted on the west shore of Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl), and include the legendary Ruster Ausbruch, the internationally renowned noble sweet dessert wine, that epitomizes the strong identity of the region. The dry style of wines display the aromas of the rich slopes of the Leithagebirge, where layers of acidic crystalline schist and gneiss emerge through carbonate-rich layers. The specific region-typical wines, labelled with the Leithaberg DAC designation, also have a legally defined viticultural area, encompassing the political districts of the free town of Eisenstadt, including its outskirts, up to the smaller wine-growing towns of Jois and Winden. The Leithaberg DAC white wine may be only produced using the varieties Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Chardonnay, Neuburger and Grüner Veltliner, either as a single varietal or as a blend of these varieties. The red Leithaberg DAC is produced using Blaufränkisch as the principal grape variety, yet up to 15 percent of the blend may contain Zweigelt, St. Laurent or Pinot Noir. The wines labelled as Leithaberg DAC display consistent mineral characters and are relatively full-bodied, with declared alcohol levels of 12.5% to 13.5% by volume. The region has become a real wine Mecca for tourists, with its wealth of quality orientated wineries and dedicated producers. Cultural programmes, including wine, are on offer in Eisenstadt, the federal state capital, with its famous Schloss Esterhazy castle, along with the lakeside musical festivals in Mörbisch, the open air opera in the historic quarry in Sankt Margarethen or the wide variety of wine courses at the Weinakademie (Wine Academy) in Rust. The sweeping “Rosalia” vineyards extend from the southern tip of the Leithaberg region, and include the wine-growing village of Pöttelsdorf. Its rich, dense soil structure gives Blaufränkisch a powerful style that is quite similar to Mittelburgenland.

200
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Mittelburgenland- Racy Red Wines. Blaufränkisch with Character

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Blaufränkisch is the leading grape variety throughout the 2,117 hectares of vineyards in the Mittelburgenland wine-growing region, and best represents the region-typical characteristics for Mittelburgenland DAC. The four main wine villages of Deutschkreutz, Horitschon, Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt, as well as two very modern co-operative wineries, support the view that large scale production and high quality is possible. The centre of the red wine culture in Austria lies just after the small town of Sieggraben, south of Lake Neusiedl, and close to the Hungarian border. The view of dense forests amongst the vineyards might not give the impression that the climate conditions of the Neusiedlersee regions have any influence here at all, but they do. It was only during the end of the 1970’s and early 1980’s that the region began producing red wines with any form of regional typicity and character. Blaufränkisch is the variety that started off this red wine boom, despite its origin still being relatively unknown, and it is particularly significant that this variety has acquired such critical acclaim in both Austria and abroad. The topographic and climatic conditions favour viticulture, and many of the vineyards are protected from the elements by the Buckligen Welt region towards the west, along with the Sopron Mountains in the north, and the Koszeg Mountains in the south. Thus dry and warm winds from the Pannonian Plain blow into the region from the east. The characteristic soils are mostly heavy, dense and deep loamy layers that absorb and retain water, an asset in dry vintages with little rainfall. Alongside Blaufränkisch, the red wine varieties of Zweigelt, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot display a full-body and supple structure, and perform very well as an international blend. Yet in recent years, the Blaufränkisch has achieved notable critical acclaim as a single varietal wine. Two of the region’s modern co-operative wineries have already recognised the Blaufränkisch trend, and have focussed their investments and energy into high quality red wine production, aimed at improving their chances of continued success in the domestic and export markets. Mittelburgenland has also become a popular destination for tourists, particularly those wishing to visit the modern thermal health spas, all having been constructed during the past few years, and this inviting region of Burgenland offers a wide selection of activities.

201
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Neusiedlersee- The Diversity of Zweigelt - Strong Wines. Great Names.

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The Neusiedlersee wine-growing region is situated on the eastern shores of the large, shallow steppe lake, the Neusiedlersee or Lake Neusiedl. The designated vineyard area stretches from the wine town of Gols in the north, through the flat terrains of the Heideboden and down to the Seewinkel, adjacent to the Hungarian border. A wide variety of grapes flourish on its 7,649 hectares. Since March 2012, the new Neusiedlersee DAC stands for fruity and harmonious red wines made from the Zweigelt variety and that reflect the region’s climate and soil. The wines also are available with the additional designation of “Reserve” either as a pure Zweigelt or as a Zweigelt-dominated cuvée blend. The Neusiedlersee DAC region includes the political district of Neusiedl am See, except for the communities of Winden and Jois. The white wines with the Burgenland designation of origin, reflect their beautiful body and balance when they come to the market as Qualitätswein (quality wine). The new generation of dynamic winemakers of this region are successful above all with powerful red wines, and the distinctive micro-climate in the Seewinkel brings with impressive frequency some of the greatest noble sweet wines of the world. These vines, planted in vast, enclosed vineyards flourish on long hours of sunshine. A drawn out growing period is encouraged by the influence of the Pannonian climate, of hot, dry summers and cold winters, as well as the moderating effects of the large surface area of water from the vast Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl) and the countless, shallow, salt lakes found scattered inbetween many of the vineyards. Regular autumn fog and high humidity therefore provide the ideal conditions for the benevolent form of noble rot (botrytis cinerea), the basis of high quality dessert wines, such as Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, especially made from the white wine variety Welschriesling. These sweet specialities have undoubtedly contributed to the international recognition of Seewinkel, despite the region being much younger than other, more traditional Austian wine-growing regions. The diversity in soils, from loess and loam to gravel and sandy sediment, provides the conditions for a wide range of varieties to flourish. Alongside Welschriesling, the region’s leading white variety, a wealth of white wines are produced from Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and aromatic varieties. The favourite red variety is Blauer Zweigelt, followed by Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent and Pinot Noir, as well as a choice of more recently planted international grape varieties. The red wines from Neusiedlersee are clearly on the right road to success, and come in a wide variety of styles from unoaked, fruit-driven examples, to those matured in oak, and as a single varietal or as a blend. Alongside the culinary attractions, there are many opportunities to burn those caleries by cycling, horse riding or various water sporting activities, as well as a wide choice of accommodation in all categories for an overnight stay. The wine-growing towns include Neusiedl and Gols on the northern shore, Andau, Frauenkirchen and Mönchhof towards the east of the region, and moving southwards are the quaint villages of Podersdorf, Illmitz, Apetlon and Pamhagen. The Schloss Halbturn also holds regular concerts and cultural exhibitions throughout the year.

202
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Steiermark (Styria)- Steiermark (4,240 ha) - One of the world´s best Sauvignon blanc terroirs

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There are undoubtedly other wine-growing regions with more weighty and alcohol-richer wines, but seldom does a region offer such a brilliantly fresh and elegant style of region-typical wines as in southern Steiermark. The three designated Styrian wine-growing regions all offer their own local speciality, and are situated in the south of the federal state of Steiermark. Towards the west, the spicy Schilcher Rosé dominates, a variety that truly expresses its terroir amongst the unique and picturesque undulating hills. In the Sausal region and along the Südsteirischen Weinstraße, the idyllic wine road that meanders through the vineyards, the aromatic Sauvignon Blanc and Gelber Muskateller varieties reign, and towards the south-eastern region, known as the Vulkanland Steiermark for its remains of volanic activity, the trio of aromatic varieties is rounded off with Traminer, a real treat for connoisseurs. The most abundant variety is the Welschriesling, with is bouquet of green apple, and is a refreshing, quaffable style of wine with far more fans than wine critics care to consider. The Pinot varieties offer more complex wines with a fuller body, particularly the Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc) from the carbonate-rich soils. Likewise, Chardonnay (also known here as Morillon) and Grauburgunder (Ruländer, Pinot Gris) elegantly combines freshness with weight and body, and both can develop beautifully with bottle age. Likewise, Chardonnay (also known here as Morillon) and Grauburgunder (Ruländer, Pinot Gris) elegantly combines freshness with weight and body, and both can develop beautifully with bottle age. Each new vintage is celebrated with a light-bodied young wine called the ‘Junker’, which debuts during the first week of November. In the Spring following the harvest, the traditionally dry ‘Klassik’ wines, denoting those wines displaying varietal character and no oak aging, are released. One needs to have patience for the dry, full-bodied, ‘Lagen’ wines, that are usually produced from very ripe grapes from established single-vineyards. Styrian producers are maturing these wines gently and naturally, so that the result is a genuine and distinctive, world class, typically Styrian style.

203
Q

Vulkanland Steiermark (Süd-Oststeiermark)- Volcanic Slopes. Spicy Wines

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It is the pockets of vineyards, planted on the rich and fertile slopes with remarkable deposits of the long extinct volcanos, that give the wine landscape of the Vulkanland Steiermark (Süd-Oststeiermark) its magical touch. The 1,400 hectares of vines are cultivated compactly around the wine-growing towns of Klöch, St. Anna am Aigen and Straden. The Traminer, with its enticing, highly aromatic bouquet is a regional speciality, and the majority of the wines are sold through the Buschenschank wine taverns or cellar doors. For many centuries, the region was the centre of an ongoing borderland dispute, hence the presence of imposing castles and fortified towns sitting proudly on basalt clifftops. Of course the borders are open nowadays, and the former castles of Riegersburg, Schloss Kapfenstein and other venues offer an attractive ambience for an array of cultural and culinary events, with the local wines also playing a role. A remarkable variety of wines are cultivated in the Vulkanland Steiermark (Süd-Oststeiermark), more so than in other Austrian regions, ranging from Welschriesling, Morillon, Weißburgunder, Grauburgunder (Pinot Blanc, Gris and Chardonnay respectively), Gelber Muskateller, all kinds of Traminer, Sauvignon Blanc and even small parcels of Riesling, along with a wealth of red wine varieties, especially Zweigelt. All the wines display a delicate mineral spice, an asset of the unique local geological conditions. Four main wine roads link the picturesque hills and dales, and a good port of call is the vinotheque in St. Anna am Aigen, that stocks virtually all of the region’s wines. There are also a wide selection of tourist attractions, including the thermal health spa resorts, located along the volcanic fault. The most significant wine-growing towns are Bad Radkersburg, Feldbach, Gleisdorf, Hartberg, Kapfenstein, Klöch, Riegersburg, St. Peter, Straden, Tieschen and Weiz. In the north of the region, the Ringkogel vineyards near Hartberg reach a peak of 650 metres above sea level, amongst Austria’s highest cultivated vines. The climate is described as illyric, meaning that the continental effects of the hot and dry Pannonian climate meet the warm and humid Mediterranean influences. The majority of the vines are cultivated on warm soils of volcanic tuffs, basalt, sand, loam and weathered schists and gneisses. The Styrian Vulkanland is one of Austria’s most unspoilt tourist destinations. Its delightful, perfectly signposted themed hiking routes, guide visitors through the magical landscape, to then perhaps make a stop at a friendly Buschenschank, to taste the local wines and regional specialities, especially the homemade Styrian pumpkin seed oil.

204
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Südsteiermark- Zesty Sauvignon Blanc. From Lush, Romantic Hillsides.

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The Südsteiermark is synonymous with fresh, aromatic white wines, particularly Sauvignon Blanc. On 2,340 hectares of planted vineyards, there is plenty of room however, so a wealth of other varieties, from Welschriesling to Morillon (Chardonnay) and Gelber Muskateller to Traminer. The viticulture here is amongst Europe’s finest, with its charming scenery, yet it also includes some of the hardest and most challenging terrain, because most of the vineyards are planted on extremely steep inclines. The soil structures in the Südsteiermark are as diverse as the grape varieties, ranging from sandstone and slate, to marl and limestone. The warm and humid Mediterranean climate results in a long and drawn out growing period for the vines, with cool nights that help to encourage the development of fine aromatic elements in these distinct and delicately fresh wines. The varied styles of wines allow producers to demonstrate their versatility, and range from light-bodied, fruit-driven ‘Junker’ young wines, the first wine of the new vintage, to the aromatic ‘Klassik’ wines, that show true varietal character, and finally the very-ripe, rich and opulent ‘Lagen’ or reserve style of wines, that usually come from special allocations in single vineyard sites. Sauvignon Blanc in particular, has achieved consistently high marks in recent years, and today, the Südsteiermark’s signature variety enjoys critical acclaim through the world. The best producers want to keep it this way, and many are open-minded, exchanging knowledge and techniques, making a point of regularly visiting other international wine-growing regions, or taking work experience placements at wineries all over the world. The modern viticulture and oenology school in Silberberg strives to prepare learning winemakers for their chosen professions with all the right qualifications, from theory-based courses, practical skills and experience. The Südsteiermark is worth a visit in all seasons, yet particularly during the autumn months, with a gentle drive on the signposted wine roads, either along the Styrian-Slovenian border, or up towards the Sausal region, west of the main town of Leibnitz. The traditional, idyllic towns of Ehrenhausen, Gamlitz, Leutschach and Kitzeck are worth a visit, as are the single-vineyard sites of some region’s best wines, such as Czamillonberg, Grassnitzberg, Kittenberg, Nussberg, Obegg, Sernauberg, Kranachberg or Zieregg. Some of these great wines may be found on international wine lists from top restaurants around the world, yet they are all available in the local restaurants. The Archduke Johann of Austria, who originally pioneered and actively promoted viticulture in the region, was well ahead of his time with his European, forward thinking vision, and he have would been certainly be proud of ‘his’ wine producers today.

205
Q

Weststeiermark- Home of the Schilcher

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The Weststeiermark is the home of Schilcher, or to call it by its correct name, the Blauer Wildbacher. The variety is predominant planted in the 500 hectares of vines, and the local winemaking families surprisingly produce a wide range of styles, from the racy Schilcher rosé with its crisp acidity, to deeply coloured red wines with gripping tannins as well as charming sparkling wines. There is very little known about its origin, yet it has become an internationally recognised regional speciality. Despite being the smallest wine-growing region in the Steiermark, there is evidence that the Weststeiermark was once home to viticulture as early as the ancient Illyrian Celts, and later by the Romans. The vineyards stretch up the steep inclines in a long and narrow tier, some vines growing at a height of 600 metres above sea level, from the foothills of the Koralpe and the Reinischkogel mountains to the border with Slovenia in the south. The undulating shape of the terrain help to protect the vineyards against prevailing winds. The direct path between Ligist in the north, via St. Stefan ob Stainz and down towards Deutschlandsberg and Eibiswald in the south is depicted by deep valleys, steep inclines, and countless quaint and picturesque ‘Kellerstöckeln’, referring to the small cellar huts dotted in between the vineyards. A drive through the pretty wine-growing villages of Greisdorf, Gundersdorf, Wildbach and Wies offers great views and tasty wines. The geology in the Weststeiermark is also quite different from its neighbouring regions, and the rocks mainly consist of old gneiss and mica schists. The climate is described as illyric, with warm and humid Mediterranean and southeastern European influences, and relatively high rainfall. These natural elements help to form the individual style of the local wines; a style that is omnipresent in the region as the Schilcher. The source for this quirky and increasingly popular rosé wine is the Blauer Wildbacher, an ancient grape variety that was originally regarded as a rather rustic peasant wine, with harsh and aggresive acidity. Talented winemakers have slowly brought the best out of the Schilcher, which ranges from a wonderfully fruity, refreshing aperitif to a refined, lingering dessert wine. The red wines should also not be disregarded, and despite their rarity, these individual style of wines help to enrich Austria’s wide selection of terroir wines. The Schilcher is a magnet for wine tourists, and this unmistakable character of wine is a genuine ambassador for one of Europe’s most unspoilt and picturesque wine landscapes.

206
Q

Wien (Vienna)- Wien (612 ha) - A Long Heuriger Tradition – A New Wine Culture

A
Is viticulture really possible in a capital city? In some parts of the world, vines are planted just for show, a mere tourist attraction. But Vienna is different. The 612 hectares of planted vines play a significant economical role, provide a sustainable amount of greenery around the city, and form the basis for high quality wines. Right up until the late Middle Ages, vineyards also flourished within the inner city walls of Vienna, in today's prestigious First District, yet nowadays, vines are cultivated in the outer districts and the outskirts of Vienna. Wine producers from the northern wine-growing villages of Strebersdorf, Stammersdorf and Jedlersdorf also have vineyards planted on the Bisamberg, north of the Danube, with its favourable conditions for the Pinot varieties. In the west of the City, from Ottakring, Hernals and moving northwest towards Pötzleinsdorf and the 19th District, the varied carbonate-rich soils offer ideal conditions for Riesling, Chardonnay and Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), particularly around Heiligenstadt, Nussdorf, Grinzing, Sievering and Neustift am Walde. In the southern parts of Vienna, calcareous, brown and black earth soils around Mauer, Rodaun and Oberlaa favour the production of full-bodied white wines and rich, supple red wines. Virtually all Viennese producers cultivate grapes for the traditional 'Gemischter Satz',
which is comprised of different varieties planted together in a vineyard and that are also harvested together all at one time and turned into wine. In particular, the rediscovered top vineyard site, the Nussberg, has attracted in an almost magical way so many young, creative winemakers from all corners of the wine capital. The attraction of the traditional Viennese 'Heuriger' wine taverns is undiminished, and popular with local and tourists alike. There is no distinction between the larger, more prestigious examples with large buffets, that are open all year round, or the smaller, 'Buschenschank' versions, hidden amidst the vineyards and only serving food and wine for a few weeks per year; they are always full. Even the most discerning patron is likely to be satisfied with the wide selection of top class wines served by the glass. n particular, the "Wiener Gemischter Satz" – Vienna's showcase wine – has captured international recognition especially since undergoing remarkable reinterpretation by visionary top Viennese winemakers and being bestowed, in 2013, with protection of origin status. Until recently, wines from Wien, or the wine-growing region of Vienna, Austria's capital city, were regarded as being simple 'Heuriger', or wine tavern wines. Nowadays, they enjoy cult status and are listed in gourmet restaurants. It's no wonder that, for several years already, Vienna's top winemakers have been impressing numerous national and international tasting juries with their wines – from wonderful whites such as Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc to outstanding reds like Pinot Noir and Zweigelt.
207
Q

The wine-growing regions in the area of Bergland

A

Burgenland and Wien/Vienna) and “STEIRERLAND” (Steiermark), but also in every other federal state. These are included in the wine-growing area of “BERGLAND”. There were once extensive vineyards throughout Bergland, and viticulture in Oberösterreich (Upper Austria) was at its golden age peak between the 14th and 16th Century. This was, however, followed by a boom of brewing, due largely to a change in the climatic changes, with less sunlight and what is now considered a mini “Ice Age”, so that the wine industry in the Bergland region today gradually decreased and virtually came to a complete standstill in the 19th Century. It is therefore exciting to see the Renaissance of vineyards appearing, especially those in Kärnten (Carinthia).
Kärnten (Carinthia - 100 ha)

In the last few years, the vineyard area has risen from 32 to over 100 hectares. There are 85 registered wineries, with nearly ten being larger commercial estates. The cradle of the Carinthian wine industry is located in the district of St Veit, with the Langsee lake and Hochosterwitz castle, the Lavanttal (Lavant Valley), and around the town of Feldkirchen and the city of Klagenfurt. In 2013, three Carinthian wines received an award from the SALON Austria Wine for the first time. The target for 2020 is a cultivated area of ​​140 ha and an annual production of 750,000 bottles of quality wine. The beverage for all tourists to Carinthia has to become wine from Kärnten.

Oberöstereich (Upper Austria - 20 ha)
A variety of local, domestic and field names throughout the federal state prove that the wine in Oberösterreich (Upper Austria) was once a relevant economic factor. After the decline in the 19th century, it comes in federal province now back to a small renaissance. Today 25 wineries are cultivated on sunny spots of the Danube Valley, the Mach countryside, on the Linz Gaumberg hillsides, on the edge of the Eferding basin in the centre of Upper Austria, in the undulating Innviertel region and in the breezy sites of Mühlviertel. There is a total of about 20 hectares in the south of the Salzkammergut region.

Salzburg (3 ha)
The year 2001 marked the planting of first vineyards in our time in Salzburg, on the Großgmain am Untersberg mountain site. Since 2008, Frühroter Veltliner grapevines are cultivated in the Paris Lodron compound on the famous Mönchsberg mountain that overlooks the city of Salzburg. The production is about 500 bottles a year and it sells for 40 Euros a bottle, with all proceeds being donated to the Salzburg Scouts. The Benedictine Michaelbeuern monastery has also launched a wine project of 4,000 vines.

Tirol (Tyrol - 9 ha)
While the wine industry in Südtirol (South Tyrol) remains of great importance, the Winegrowers’ Association of North Tyrol, with its chairman Peter Zoller, has just two dozen members today. Unfortunately, even the well-known vineyard of Zirl, famous since the 14th Century, currently remains uncultivated. Yet there are new signs of life emerging in the north Tyrolean wine-growing scene. The best-known and productive wineries are found in Haiming, Tarrenz (Imst) and Silz.

Vorarlberg (20 ha)
There was once 500 hectares of vines in the federal state of Vorarlberg; predominantly in Walgau and Rheintal (Rhine Valley). The aftermath of phylloxera combined with competition from wines from Südtirol, following the completion of the Arlberg railway, led to the demise of wine production here, save for a single vineyard in Röthis. Today, the “Association of Vine-Growers Vorarlberg” is active with almost 70 members. Its chairman Sepp Möth is a full-time winegrower with a 4.5 hectare estate and also runs a “Heuriger” wine tavern, that is incidentally the furthest west in Austria.

208
Q

Austria- Wines without Geographical Indication

A

According to the new EU law for this category, indication of grape variety and vintage are also possible (though not grape varieties that indicate an origin, such as Weißburgunder, Blauer Burgunder or Blaufränkisch). In Austria, indications of vintage and grape variety are permitted only when there is, at the same time, compliance with the maximum yield per hectare of 9000 kg (equal to 67.5 hectolitres per hectare).

209
Q

Austria- Land Wine

A

In Austria, the traditional designation “land wine” replaces the community law designation of “wine with protected geographical indication”.
Land wine originates from one of the three Austrian wine-growing areas: Weinland (the federal states of Niederösterreich, Burgenland and Wien, or Vienna), Bergland (the federal states of Oberösterreich, Salzburg, Kärnten, Tirol and Vorarlberg) or Steirerland (the federal state of Steiermark).

210
Q

Austria- Bergland

A

Until the 17th century, there were significant wine-growing regions also in Austria’s western federal states. But climatic changes, economical crises and the major success of breweries let wine-growing in the cooler parts of the country dry up almost completely by the 19th century. Today, small pockets of wine-growing do still exist, and there even is a small renaissance underway in the Bergland wine-growing region. The current vineyard areas are in Kärnten (100 ha), Oberösterreich (20 ha), Vorarlberg (20 ha), Tirol (9 ha) and Salzburg (3 ha).

211
Q

Austria- Quality Wine

A

In the Austrian wine law, the traditional designation of “Qualitätswein” has replaced the community law designation of “Wine with protected designation of origin”. Quality wine must be produced from any single variety or blend of the 35 permitted grape varieties for Austrian Qualitätswein, and must come from thr 25 wine-growing regions. In the wine marketing, we differentiate between generic wine-growing areas (each of the 9 federal states) and 16 specific wine-growing regions, from the Wachau to Weststeiermark, of which 9 are DAC areas. DAC wines are quality wines that display regional typicity and place of origin, and have been legally defined by ministerial regulation. The names of the wine-growing regions are defined by EU legislation as; Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), defined in the German language as “geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnungen (g.U.). Austrian Qualitätswein (quality wine) is given a unique state control number (for each wine submitted). This confirms that the wine submitted has undergone a chemical and sensoric analysis in a federal bureau of oenology. In Austria, bottled quality wines also have the red-white-red (to symbolise the national flag) banderole seal, imprinted with the winery registration number, on either the capsule of screwcap closure.

212
Q

Austria- Qualitätswein - Quality wine with regional character (DAC)

A

Since the year 1999, Austria has been working on the profile of the specific wine regions along the lines of the Roman wine law (France, Italy, Spain). This means that specific wine-growing areas lay a focus on the marketing of one or a several styles of wines, that are typical for the region. However, this does not mean that the diversity of varieties and wine styles are neglected. The new strategy indicates only that the territorial representative wines are marked under the name of the specific area, wines that are produced from other grape varieties and styles, are marketed under the name of the generic area (federal state). Thus, the consumer has a better idea of the type of wine that awaits him/her under the name of the specific wine region. It also prevents the interchangeability of grape varieties by branding wines with the vineyard names.

The development of these rules is the responsibility of local representative bodies (Regional Wine Committee), who represent the wineries, wine trade, cooperatives and sparkling wine production according to their significance for the area. The coordination and technical control of this wine-growing political development is regulated by the joint composition National Wine Board, in which even the member experts of the Ministry of Agriculture and the Austrian Wine Marketing Board have an advisory role. Place of origin and typical quality wines on a proposal of the National Committee are legally established by the Agriculture Minister by regulation. The wine label contains the term ‘Districtus Austria Controllatus’ (abbreviated to ‘DAC’), and is placed next to the wine region name. A dual strategy is in place for non-typical focus wines (DAC) on the specific level and for the preservation of diversity. There is of course room for the necessary capacity for innovation on the generic level. Austria has managed to square the circle by employing the benefits of both the Roman and Germanic systems.

213
Q

Austria- Prädikatswein (wines with predicate)

A

In Austria, the wines with predicate are also quality wines. They are quality wines of a special ripeness and harvest method. Also, they can be designated as generic (e.g. Burgenland) or with a specific origin (e.g. Südoststeiermark) as long as the specific region does not have a DAC designation for other wine styles. It is even imaginable that, for a suitable region, a DAC especially for Prädikat wines could be created. The system for Prädikatswein - i.e. to distinguish wines with a higher, natural residual sugar level and different harvest and maturation techniques - is specific to Austrian and German wine law. The declaration of predicate wine based on the quality of the grapes harvested has to, in addition to meeting the following criteria, be confirmed in the presence of a federal wine inspector (Mostwäger). The document is known as the Mostwägerbestätigung. Chaptalisation of the grape must is prohibited and the residual sugar may only come from the premature arrest of the fermentating must (but not by the addition of grape must to the wine).

214
Q

The State Control Number (Prüfnummer) and the Red-White-Red Capsule

A

Austrian Qalitätswein, regionally typical wines (DAC) and Austrian Prädikatswein have undergone two rigourous inspections, firstly through a chemical analysis and additionally through a tasting commission by qualified and state authorised wine tasters. The regionally typical DAC wines are examined further, to confirm their regional typicity. The state control number in conjunction with the red-white-red (representing the Austrian flag) capsule are proof of these arduous and rigourous quality control measures.

215
Q

Maximum permitted yield- Austria

A

The maximum permitted yield in Austria is 9,000 kg or grapes per hectare or 67.5 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha).
This legal limit applies to all wine, such as for Landwein (land wine), Qualitätswein (quality wine) and regionally typical wines (DAC) and wines without origin, but with the vintage and variety declared on the label. Should this limit be exceeded, the total amount of wine is declassified to wine without origin, and the vintage and variety may not be declared on the label.

216
Q

Austria- Wine Without Origin

A
  • Must weight: minimum of 10.7 °KMW (51 °Ö), minimum alcohol: 8,5 % vol.
  • No specific region of origin is permitted. Only the description of “Österreich” and “österreichischer Wein” etc.
  • Vintage and grape variety are permitted, if the yield per hectare dows not exceed the maximum yield for Landwein and Qualitätswein (33 from the 35 registered quality wine grape varieties are currently permitted, the exceptions being Blaufränkisch (grape variety with specific origin) and Pinot Noir. The Minister of Agriculture may, however, pass a decree to include further grape varieties for declaration on the label)
  • The descriptions of “Bergwein” (all sloped sites with an incline of more than 26% gradient) and “Heuriger” (the vintage must be declared if bottled).
217
Q

Landwein (Land Wine)- Austria

A
  • Must weight: minimum of 14 °kMW (68 °Ö)
  • Maximum permitted yield: 6,750 l/ha or 9,000 kg grapes/ha (as Qualitätswein)
  • A more specific region of origin declaration than the wine-growing area or larger sites is not permitted on the label.
218
Q

Quality Wine/ regionally typical quality wine (DAC)- Austria

A
  • a minimum of 15° KMW. The grapes may only come from the list of classified Austrian varieties and only from one wine-growing area
  • Alcohol level: min. 9,0 % vol
219
Q

Kabinett- Austria

A

In addition or different to Qualitätswein (quality wine)
• Alcohol level: max. 13,0 % vol

  • a minimum of 17° KMW
  • The harvested grapes may not be chaptalised.
  • The content of the unfermented sugar (residual sugar) must not exceed 9 g/l for dry wines
220
Q

Spatlese- Austria

A
  • made from fully ripened grapes
  • must weight of at least 19° KMW
  • Refers to wines that may only be released after 1 March in the year after the harvest.
221
Q

Auslese- Austria

A
  • Selected grapes (grapes sorted with all unripe, damaged or unhealthy grapes removed)
  • must weight of at least 21° KMW
  • Refers to wines that may only be released after 1 May in the year after the harvest.
222
Q

Beerenauslese- Austria

A
  • made from over-ripe and/or noble rot grapes
  • must weight of at least 25° KMW
  • Refers to wines that may only be released after 1 May in the year after the harvest.
223
Q

Eiswein- Austria

A
  • Wine produced from grapes that were in a completely frozen state at the harvest and pressing.
  • must wight at least 25° KMW
224
Q

Strohwein/Schilfwein- Austria

A
  • Wine from fully ripened and sweet grapes, that were dried for a minimum period of three months on straw or reeds, or hung up to dry, prior to any form of processing
  • must weight of at least 25° KMW
225
Q

Ausbruch- Austria

A
  • Wine produced completely from dried, noble rot grape berries.
  • For a more effective extraction of the natural sugar content in the must, fresh grape juice or wine of the minimum quality level of Spätlese , Auslese or Beerenauslese from the same site may be added, to ensure that the minimum must weight of 27 ° KMW is achieved.
  • must weight of at least 27° KMW
226
Q

Trockenbeerenauslese- Austria

A
  • Wine produced primarily from dried, noble rot grape berries.
  • must weight of at least 30° KMW
227
Q

Trocken- Austria

A

up to a maximum of 9 g/l if the total acidity is not lower than 2 g/l below this value. For example, a wine with 8 g/l of residual sugar requires at least 6 g/l of acidity to be declared as trocken or dry

228
Q

Halbtrocken (off dry)- Austria

A

The maximum permitted residual sugar value is 18 g/l, subject to the total acidity (measured as tartaric) being no less than 10 g/l below this value.

229
Q

Leibilich (medium- sweet)- Austria

A

up to 45 g/l of residual sugar

230
Q

Sweet- Austria

A

from 45 g/l of residual sugar

231
Q

Reserve- Austria

A

The term ‘Reserve’ may only be used for Qualitätswein (quality wine) with a minimum alcohol level of 13 % vol. The application for the Prüfnummer, or State Control Number is permitted from 15 March for white Reserve wines and 1 November for red Reserve wines, in the year following the harvest. With certain regionally typical DAC wines, the application date is often later.

232
Q

Weingut- Austria

A

The term ‘Weingut’ refers to wine produced grapes-grown within the vineyards, either owned or rented, by the producer, as long as the rented vineyards does not exceed the owned sites.

233
Q

DAC- Austria

A

“DAC” stands for “Districtus Austriae Controllatus” and is the legal abbreviation for special region-typical quality wines. Thus, if a label states the wine-growing region followed by the letter combination DAC (e.g. Kamptal DAC) we are talking about a region-typical quality wine

234
Q

Austrian Sekt

A

Austria has outstanding wine regions, wineries - and internationally acclaimed wines. Where “Austria” is written on the outside, Austria must be inside, too; only this can guarantee the top image of Austrian products in the future and around the world. According to § 2 para. 2 of the Austrian wine law, “Austrian wine” is defined as a wine made in Austria from grapes grown in Austria. This applies also to Austrian sparkling wine.

235
Q

Austria- 2015

A

After the challenges of 2014, the 2015 harvest was far better. It was generally warm across the country, creating flavourful wines from all varieties. Both whites and reds are expected to display strong typicality with fuller-than-average body.

236
Q

Austria- 2014

A

Excessive rainfall and generally poor weather conditions made this the worst Austrian vintage in recent years.

237
Q

Austria- 2013

A

Very tricky weather conditions, from snow to flooding to drought, made 2013 a tough vintage. Nevertheless, Grüner Veltliner is particularly concentrated, while Riesling is acidic and austere. Reds are juicy and simple, and failed to reach the standard of 2012 and 2011. Very few sweet wines were made.

238
Q

Austria- 2012

A

May frost restricted yields in 2012, but the rest of the season was more favourable, and quality is good. Very generally speaking, Grüner Veltliner did better than Riesling, although health was good across all varieties. Reds are lower in alcohol and concentration than the much better 2011 vintage.

239
Q

Austria- 2011

A

Generous yields were welcome following several lean years. Hot weather caused resulted in relatively high alcohol levels, while acidity levels are low. Whites tend to be full bodied with good ageing potential and all red varieties fared well, with some declaring this vintage the best thus far for Austrian red.

240
Q

Austria- 2010

A

A challenging vintage, with cold, wet conditions throughout spring and summer. Yields were way below national average too. One to avoid?

241
Q

Lieblich

A

Appears (albeit usually in small print) on labels of austrian wines whose residual sugar is between 19 and 45 g/l. The term is not seen on German labels but it often used informally to describe German wines sweeter than those labelled trocken, halbtrocken, or feinherb.

242
Q

Gruner Veltliner

A

The most commonly planted vine variety in austria is grown elsewhere in eastern Europe and is increasingly respected worldwide. This well-adapted variety is planted on 14,641 ha/36,163 acres of Austria, particularly in Lower Austria, where it represents more than half of total white grape production, and in the Vienna region, where it comprises about a third of all plantings. dna profiling in Austria has shown that Grüner Veltliner is not genetically related to roter veltliner or frühroter veltliner.

The vine can be productive and is relatively hardy, but ripens too late for much of northern Europe. Yields of 100 hl/ha (5.7 tons/acre) are possible, invariably using the lenz moser system of vine training, in the least distinguished vineyards of the Weinviertel in Lower Austria and the resulting wine is inoffensive if unexciting. However, at its best, arguably in the Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Weinviertel, Wagram, and in the hands of some of the most ambitious growers in Vienna, Grüner Veltliner can produce wines which combine perfume and substance. The wine is typically dry, full-bodied, peppery, or spicy, and with time in bottle can start to taste positively Burgundian. Grüner Veltliner can produce a variety of wine styles from base wines for Austrian sekt, simple wines served at heuriger, popular medium-bodied peppery wines to very opulent, concentrated wines. Grüner Veltliner may be regarded as Austria’s biggest asset and adorns restaurant wine lists around the globe. It can be difficult for non-German speakers to pronounce so is often abbreviated to ‘Gruner’, ‘GV’, or even ‘Gru-Ve’.

The variety has long been grown just over Lower Austria’s northern border in the czech republic, where it is known as Veltlin or Veltlínské Zelené and in the Sopron vineyards of hungary as Zöldveltelini. It is also (just) known in Germany’s Rheinhessen and is being assayed in Australia, New Zealand, and North America.

243
Q

Zweigelt

A

(formerly Rotburger), is Austria’s most popular dark-berried grape variety planted on 6,539 ha/16,151 acres in 2013, even though this cross was bred only relatively recently, by a Dr Zweigelt at the klosterneuburg research station in 1922. It is a blaufränkisch × st-laurent cross that at its best combines some of the bite of the first with the elegance of the second, although it is sometimes encouraged to produce too much dilute wine. It is popular with growers because it ripens earlier than Blaufränkisch but buds rather later than St-Laurent, thereby tending to yield generously. It is widely grown throughout all Austrian wine regions and can increasingly make a serious, age-worthy, exuberantly fruity wine, even though most examples are best drunk young. So successful has it been in Austria that the variety is also popular over the border in the Czech Republic and Slovakia as well as in western Hungary. It has also been planted in British Columbia and, surprisingly widely, on Hokkaido in japan. The export fortunes of the variety may, oddly enough, be hampered by its originator’s uncompromisingly Germanic surname. If only he had been called Dr Pinot Noir.

244
Q

Blaufränkisch

A

Is the Austrian name for the increasingly respected middle European black grape variety the Germans call lemberger. From pre-medieval times it was common to divide grape varieties into the (superior) ‘fränkisch’, whose origins lay with the Franks, and the rest. It is today Austria’s second most planted dark-berried variety after its progeny zweigelt, producing wines of real character, if notably high acidity, when carefully grown. Its good colour, tannin, and raciness encourage the most ambitious Austrian producers, led by Moric, to lavish new oak on it and treat it like single vineyard burgundy. For many years it was thought to be the Beaujolais grape gamay. Bulgarians still call it Gamé, while Hungarians translate its Austrian name more directly as kékfrankos. Austrian dna profiling suggests a parent–offspring relationship with gouais blanc, known in Austria as Heunisch.

Its Austrian home is Burgenland, where most of its 3,225 ha/7,966 acres are situated. It is grown particularly on the warm shores of the Neusiedlersee, in Mittelburgenland, and at Eisenberg in South Burgenland. As Kékfrankos it grows even more prolifically on the Hungarian side of the lake, notably in Sopron, whose version has the distinction of having been singled out for mention by Napoleon. Today it is seen both at home and abroad as one of Austria’s best local varieties. Blaufränkisch gives varied wine styles with red fruit flavours, firm acidity, and generally good weight, deep colour, and spicy character. The variety called Frankovka in the czech republic and Serbia is one and the same and here can produce lively, fruity, vigorous wines for early consumption. In friuli in the far north eastern corner of Italy, the variety is called Franconia and can yield wines with zip and fruit.

The vine buds early and ripens late and can therefore thrive only in a relatively warm climate.

245
Q

Austria

A

Produces an average of 2.5 million hl/66 million gal wine a year but is more famous for the quality rather than the quantity of its wines, especially dry and sweet whites and also reds from the dark-skinned grapes grown on more than one-third of Austria’s vineyard area. Average yields are relatively low, around 50 hl/ha (3 tons/acre).

246
Q

Austria- History

A

Austria is among the many places into which celtic tribes are thought to have introduced grape growing, but historical records begin with the romans. That Austria suffered under domitian’s notorious ad 92 edict prohibiting viticultural expansion can only be assumed. But this much is documented: Emperor Probus, in rescinding that edict two centuries later, expressly encouraged new plantings both in Gaul and in Pannonia—the Great Plain that incorporates today’s eastern Austria. From his 5th-century base in the Roman garrison town of Mautern, St Severin is believed to have planted the first wachau vineyards. Control of the subsequently burgeoning vineyards west of Vienna passed largely to a collection of Bavarian ecclesiastical institutions in the wake of Charlemagne’s victories over the Avars in the late 8th century. Numerous important Austrian estates and vineyards are still owned and some operated by Roman Catholic institutions, which are by no means the exclusive bottlers of official Messwein, whose consumption transcends mass. The legacy of several Bavarian founders lives on in more than just the physical structures that they left behind, including the Wachau’s towering stone terraces of Mediterranean inspiration, begun in the 11th century. Stift Göttweig, a huge wine-growing monastery that dominates the landscape south of Krems, was founded by a bishop of Bavarian Passau in 1083; yet-larger klosterneuburg dates from soon afterward; and the Salomon family of Krems-Stein’s Undhof have for two centuries been renewing a land-for-wine rental contract with a charitable institution in Passau which first acquired those vineyards around 1200.

An Austrian tradition of small vineyard-holders dispensing their wine—institutionalized eventually as heuriger—is often said to have Carolingian origins; and by the Middle Ages, Vienna was notorious for copious consumption of wine, after which it was named. The evolution of viticulture in what was then westernmost Hungary led to several Neusiedlersee vineyard sites coming under direct royal control and by the mid-16th century, barrels of wine from Rust were branded ‘R’, leading to the town being declared a free city just over a century later. Successive waves of Ottoman invasions in the 17th century did not halt the expansion of vineyards. Moreover, many of the ‘new settlers’ for which the Neusiedlersee is named waves of Croatians and southern Germans who arrived to repopulate its shores—became wine growers, like their descendants.

The so-called Biedermeier era of Austrian stability that followed Napoleon saw the emergence not only of a prosperous, wine-drinking middle class, but also of vine science and vine nurseries, so that by the mid 19th century, the Hapsburg empire had become internationally renowned as a source for viticultural expertise and budwood. In 1860 a national school of viticulture and winemaking was established at Klosterneuburg. This was also a period of international success for Austrian wine, curtailed by phylloxera, identified relatively early by Klosterneuburg scientists. Meticulous wine historian Franz Schams identified many of the villages and vineyards that are still considered Austria’s best as early as the 1830s, even if they often grew vine varieties different from those found there today. This was the case as recently as the mid 20th century, when plantings of gemischter satz (field blends) remained the norm. Silvaner (which was called Österreicher), flourished while Grüner Veltliner was encountered only in selected sectors, and Riesling was a real rarity.

The 20th century’s world wars visited disaster on Austria, but each with distinctly different viticultural consequences. Following the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian empire in the wake of the First World War, vast wine regions were shed, including those of Moravia in what is now the czech republic, friuli, croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, slovenia , slovakia, and much of today’s romania. The Second World War brought physical devastation to Austrian vineyards on a significant scale and the plundering of virtually every wine cellar in the country by Soviet occupying troops. In rebuilding Austria’s vineyards in the 1950s and 1960s, considerable attention was devoted to efficiency and where possible, mechanization (see, lenz moser).

After four hard decades of vineyard revival, characterized by the remarkable ascendance of grüner veltliner as Austria’s national grape and by the international re-emergence of the Thermenregion and of the sweet-wine culture of the Neusiedlersee, Austria suffered yet another viticultural calamity of her own making. In mid 1985, dessert wines from the Burgenland region were found to have been laced with diethylene glycol, added by a handful of unscrupulous vintners or merchants to imitate the unctuous characteristics imparted by botrytis. While nobody is known to have been poisoned, the market for Austrian wine at home and abroad was devastated. Vinous integrity demanded a completely fresh start. Implementation of stringent quality standards, combined with consumer consciousness of estate bottling and wine purity, led to a rebuilding of Austrian wine culture in ways nobody could have foreseen before the scandal. Through vinea wachau, the Wachau’s growers established quality benchmarks that went beyond Austria’s new wine laws and set the stage for international prestige. Südsteiermark emerged from a century of obscurity to national stardom. And a young Viennese pharmacist named Alois Kracher returned home to transform his family’s estate into a beacon of quality, rescuing the reputation of Burgenland, the very region from which had emerged the wines that poisoned an industry. By the late 1990s, Austrian wine was enjoying unprecedented export success and prestige that has continued to this day.

247
Q

Austria- Geography, geology, and climate

A

niederösterreich, steiermark (Styria), and burgenland are the three Austrian states that incorporate all but a tiny morsel of Austrian vineyard. Along a roughly 100 km/62 mile, almost continuously planted stretch of the Danube’s left and occasionally right bank upstream of Vienna and north all the way to the Czech frontier, lie those regions of Niederösterreich known for their Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. And while the latter enjoys less than a 5% share of acreage, it not only makes up for this in notoriety and price, it also serves as a useful climatic touchstone. This part of Austria is where Riesling feels at home: cool enough, but dry—like the Vosges rainshadow of alsace. Another feature common to most of this sector—which incorporates the growing regions of Wachau, kamptal, kremstal, traisental, wagram, and weinviertel—is wide, regular diurnal temperature variation (see temperature variability). Austrian descriptions of some Niederösterreich vineyard soils may refer to Urgestein, usually translated as ‘primary rock’, a term and a concept long obsolete in geology. It is used in Austria for relatively old, tough rocks such as granite and gneiss, which contrast with younger, softer materials such as loess (also common) and alluvium.

Vienna—an urban viticultural morsel that is itself officially a state—serves as a sort of fulcrum of Austrian wine growing. Its best-known vineyards, on the city’s north-western edge, are dominated by Grüner Veltliner but were historically renowned for Riesling. Two smaller concentrations of vines on Vienna’s southern fringe feature red grapes as well as white, and point towards the conditions that dominate in the adjacent Niederösterreich regions of thermenregion and carnuntum, as well as the four growing regions of Burgenland that hug Austria’s border with Hungary. Here, warm air from Hungary’s Pannonian Plain dominates the grape-growing season, although winters are often bitterly cold, and precipitation is even lighter than in the wine regions dominated by Grüner Veltliner and Riesling to the west. Most of Austria’s red wine vines (about a third of the national total) are grown here, and Grüner Veltliner is less important than many other white grapes, whether for dry or the sweet wines responsible for the Neusiedlersee’s centuries-old reputation.

The third viticultural part of Austria, the country’s south east, corresponds to the three growing regions of Steiermark (Styria), overwhelmingly the most important of which is Südsteiermark, whose vineyards saturate a sector south of Graz and along a 40 km/25 mile stretch of the Slovenian frontier. Cool and well-watered, the steep hillsides here would no doubt support Riesling, but historical circumstance or caprice has dictated differently, and Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Welschriesling, and Muskateller dominate along with Zweigelt for reds.

248
Q

Austria- Vine Varieties

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Given the huge number of grape varieties grown in Austria and how many are indigenous or at least little-known elsewhere, an overview is in order. Among whites, Grüner Veltliner—with roughly a 30% share of plantings nationwide—has become known as Austria’s national grape, even though its role in Burgenland is only modest and in Steiermark practically non-existent. Austrian wines from this grape—virtually always dry—capture an otherwise unprecedented range of flavours, including those of lentils, green beans, mange-tout, cress, rhubarb, beetroot, roasted red peppers, tobacco, white and black pepper, citrus zest, iris, and nutmeg. A tactile ‘bite’ or pleasantly sizzling peppery astringency—referred to by Austrians as Pfefferl—is often treated as a varietal signature. Arguably also without precedent is this grape’s ability to achieve satisfying ripeness and completeness at levels of potential alcohol ranging from as little as 10.5% to as much as 15%. Grüner Veltliner wines can reflect vineyard identity as well as mature impressively in bottle for decades. There can be enormous variation in size and colour of berry; size and shape of cluster; vine vigour; and wine flavour. The painstaking massal selection undertaken by the Wachau’s Franz Pichler in the mid 20th century has made possible today’s quality.

Riesling by no means takes a back seat to Grüner Veltliner in quality, although it occupies less than 5% of Austria’s vineyards. As they do elsewhere, the wines vary considerably in strength and demonstrate an uncanny ability to reflect terroir. Most Austrian examples are dry and can tolerate alcohols over 13% rather better than their dry German counterparts, but after a brief flirtation with strengths of 14% or more, most growers actively seek, through viticultural adaptation and slightly earlier harvest, to keep levels below 13.5%. Austrian Riesling is almost uniformly lower in acidity and tends towards less effusive aromas than its German counterparts, but at its best offers a crescendo of flavours on the finish. It tends to be leaner in texture than Alsace Riesling and to age a little faster than the best examples of Germany and Alsace, and Austria’s best Grüner Veltliner.

Welschriesling, a traditional mainstay of Austrian viticulture, is planted on nearly twice as much land as true Riesling. It is prized commercially for light, bracing examples from Styria and considered a key player in Burgenland’s botrytis belt. A few important growers also make dry or off-dry examples with considerable complexity, which suggests an increase in respect for the variety. Pinot Blanc—here generally called Weissburgunder—is arguably one of Austria’s hidden strengths, capable of subtle and seductive complexity while uniting natural creaminess with refreshing animation; and having at least one or two eloquent champions in nearly every growing region. Chardonnay may be more common, but Austrian statistics have yet to thoroughly distinguish between the two, which collectively account for around 7% of the country’s vineyard. Sauvignon Blanc is treated as the signature grape of Steiermark.

Gelber Muskateller—a variant of Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains—has a long tradition throughout Austria, even if the total planted is small. Light, bracing wines in Südsteiermark represent its one instance of commercial as opposed to merely aesthetic significance. Roter traminer (here typically labelled simply Traminer, as it can be both its Gewürz-variant and a rare yellow Austrian strain) and Pinot Gris (here usually called Grauburgunder) are also grapes of long-standing if modest acreage in Austria. roter veltliner and neuburger are two highly distinctive indigenous varieties whose wines tend towards high alcohol but are capable of remarkable longevity. Rotgipfler and Zierfandler are two more distinctive indigenous varieties associated with the thermenregion. bouvier and scheurebe (here also called Sämling 88) deserve mention for their role in sweet wines from the Neusiedlersee; and furmint for its recent revival in Rust, in dry as well as ausbruch wines.

Among red wine grapes, zweigelt dominates Austria with a roughly 14% share of the national vineyard and (unlike Grüner Veltliner) has a significant presence in every wine region. Best known for the forward fruitiness of its solo expressions, it also figures in some more ambitious wines, especially when blended with other Austrian or Bordeaux varieties. Austrian red wine acreage grew rapidly at the beginning of this century. An exception appears to be Blaufränkisch, last pegged officially in 2013 at almost 7% of Austrian vine acreage, nearly all of that in Burgenland. From the 1990s it was recognized that its wines can be profound and worth ageing if yields are modest and it is treated to long élevage. Black fruits, tobacco, resinous herbs, and black pepper are among the characteristics associated with Blaufränkisch wines, which demonstrate striking ability to reflect their soils and sites of origin. Selections whose grapes are smaller-berried and thicker-skinned than the late-20th-century norm are being actively sought.

St Laurent may or may not be an Austrian original, but it is today little known elsewhere, and given the fragility and finicky temperament it seems to have inherited from Pinot Noir, its under 2% share of acreage by no means secures its future. At their best, wines from St Laurent display rich fruit allied to even plusher texture than Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder) which represented 1.3% of Austria’s vine surface in 2013. The Bordeaux red varieties are also grown to a limited extent and though uncommon, Syrah has some serious proponents in Burgenland and neighbouring Carnuntum. A picture of Austrian viticulture would be incomplete without mention of two traditionally widespread red wine varieties, blauburger and Blauer portugieser—at roughly 2% and 3% of acreage respectively. Like Müller-Thurgau among white grapes with its 4% share of Austrian acreage, these varieties are statistically significant if largely bereft of grower-champions and probably destined to decline.

249
Q

Austria- Wine labelling

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Austria shares much of its wine vocabulary with germany, but a term can vary significantly in both the extent to and meaning with which it is employed in each country. Austrian wine law enshrines the term Kabinett for unchaptalized, dry Qualitätswein (Austria’s equivalent of pdo) of up to 13% alcohol and from grapes of at least 17 °KMW (84 °oechsle). But in practice the term is seldom employed and where wines are so-labelled this is usually in small print. The term Spätlese imposes a higher minimum must weight and may be applied to wine with tasteable residual sugar. But in practice that term is increasingly absent from Austrian wine labels. With the advent of dac legislation, the term Reserve has effectively replaced Spätlese in those regions where that term was used for dry wines, while Klassik is used for wines formerly labelled Kabinett. There is, however, some use of the term Spätlese in Burgenland for lightly sweet wines from largely botrytis-free grapes. The official Austrian Prädikats of Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese apply to wines of incrementally higher minimum must weights and with noticeable residual sugar. They are used throughout the country but in practice are common only in those sectors of Burgenland that specialize in botrytized sweet wine, which is also where the more specialized categories of Strohwein (straw wine), eiswein, and ausbruch are almost exclusively used. It can be safely assumed that an Austrian wine is dry-tasting unless it is labelled prominently with one of the so-called Prädikats. Growers therefore rarely use the word trocken (less than 9g/l residual sugar) prominently on their labels.

All Austrian wines meeting the standards set for Qualitätswein feature the so-called Banderole, a neck band or capsule top featuring the red and white stripes of the national flag, which serves not only as a guarantee that the wine has met federal production limits and quality controls, including any implied by the terms on its label, but also acts (by means of a long string of tiny digits) to track the wine. The former Austrian legal category Tafelwein, now simply Wein (see wine without geographical indication), refers to wines with must weights below those for Qualitätswein but a minimum of 8.5% alcohol. In practice, very little such wine is produced and virtually none is exported. Wines falling into the slightly more elevated official category Landwein, the equivalent of pgi, are almost as rare, although as elsewhere a few sometimes talented and visionary growers, frustrated by repeated failures to win Qualitätswein status, unapologetically or even proudly become refuseniks.

250
Q

Dried- Grape Wines

A

Varied and growing category of generally intense, complex, often sweet wines made from partially raisined grapes. The production technique, involving either leaving the grapes to raisin on the vine or picking and then drying them by various methods, is associated with most of the celebrated wines of antiquity. This early concentration technique continues one of the oldest traditions in the gastronomic world.

In the classical world this winemaking style may well have evolved because of problems of wine conservation, particularly for wines traded and consumed outside their area of origin, semi-dried grapes naturally resulting in sweeter, stronger and therefore more stable wines. (botrytized wines and the technique of fortification were developed many centuries later.) The dried grape tradition has proved particularly resilient close to its origins, notably in Italy.

251
Q

Dried- Grape Wines: Ancient history

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The technique of twisting the stems of grape bunches to deprive them of sap, and leaving them to raisin on the vine, may have originated in crete, but vinification techniques for dried grapes were perfected in Ancient greece. The Ancient Greeks also learned from other inhabitants of the eastern Mediterranean, particularly the Hittites of Anatolia. The first description of how to make wine from dried grapes is provided by hesiod, in the 8th century bc. His Works and Days describes how grapes should be dried in the sun ‘for ten days and nights’ and then in the shade for a further five, before fermenting the wine in jars.

Such methods were responsible for the famous wines of the islands (Chios, Lesbos, and Thasos) which were so highly prized by homer and succeeding writers. These wines were often noted as being at their best after many years’ maturation, when they had ‘lost their teeth’: clear evidence of the longevity which only dried-grape wines could provide before the invention of stoppered bottles. Sealed amphorae may have been relatively airtight containers but long journeys in Mediterranean heat demanded exceptionally robust wines.

Coincidental with the rise of the Greek city states was the emergence of the most adventurous traders of the Mediterranean, those of phoenicia. They exported the wines of Lebanon (and the winemaking practices of canaan) along the littorals of North Africa and to Spain, Sardinia, and Sicily. One of their colonies was carthage, founded in 814 bc, where in about 500 bc Mago wrote his seminal work on agriculture, now known only in the extensive quotations which survive in the works of succeeding classical authors, notably the Roman columella. Redding quotes Mago in the following passage which summarizes the Graeco-Roman understanding of dried grape vinification:

Let the bunches of grapes quite ripe, and scorched or shrivelled in the sun, when the bad and faulty ones are picked out, be spread upon a frame resting on stakes or forks and covered with a layer of reeds. Place them in the sun but protect them from the dew at night. When they are dry (sufficiently shrivelled) pluck the grapes from the stalks, throw them into a cask and make the first must. If they have been well drained, put them, at the end of six days, into a vessel, and press them for the first wine. A second time let them be pounded (or trodden) and pressed, adding cold must to the pressing. This second wine is to be placed in a pitched vessel, lest it become sour. After it has remained twenty or thirty days, and fermented, rack it into another vessel and stopping it close immediately, cover it with a skin.

Other writers in Ancient rome such as cato, pliny, horace, and virgil add other details (such as storing these wines in the rafters, as with modern Tuscan vin santo), but in general repeat the principles laid down by their Mediterranean forebears.

The Romans, like the Greeks, planted vineyards wherever they went—in Spain, France, Germany, and central Europe, perhaps even in England. Only in the last would the climate have been too austere for the production of passum (passito) wines; elsewhere the practice became embedded in the complex strata of vinicultural history, a rich seam of vinous tradition to be mined in later centuries, after the long upheavals which followed the collapse of the Roman empire.

252
Q

Dried- Grape Wines: Evolution Since the Middle Ages: Italy

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The vinum reticum of Verona praised by Pliny was presumably the ancestor of today’s recioto and amarone. It was relatively common for wines to be made from grapes dried on the vine cut off from the flow of sap by having their stems twisted, or torcolato (the name of a modern white Recioto made in Veneto’s breganze from partially dried, though not (today) twisted, vespaiola grapes). The dried-grape tradition was presumably enhanced in 1204 when Venice conquered Crete, the stronghold of this classical heritage. The result seems to have been a revival of dried-grape winemaking throughout the growing Venetian empire, not just in Veneto but on the islands and coast of what is now slovenia and croatia.

In early-14th-century piemonte, such wines were in great demand and are mentioned again in the mid 17th century, but the tradition survives only as a curiosity today. In tuscany, however, vin santo survives as an apparently unbroken tradition, practised by most of the best estates. Versions exist in other parts of Italy, notably in trentino (see vino santo). Other survivals include the verduzzo of Ramandolo, the generally overrated picolit of friuli, the remarkable Rosenmuskateller of trentino-alto adige, sforzato or Sfursat of valtellina, albana passito from Romagna, and sagrantino passito from Umbria. In the south and islands, examples of this renascent tradition are too numerous to mention in detail but include a range of wines based on raisined moscato, aleatico, malvasia, and Nasco grapes, not to mention Vecchio Samperi, the rare unfortified wine in the style of marsala from de Bartoli. Perhaps the best-known example of passito wine in southern Italy today is Vallone’s Amarone-like Graticciaia, dried not three months under the winery roof but about ten days under the Puglian sun, still hot immediately after the grape harvest. And the island of Pantelleria is famous for a wine made from dried Moscato grapes.

253
Q

Dried- Grape Wines: Evolution Since the Middle Ages: Elsewhere

A

It is clear from redding that dried-grape wines were much more common in early-19th-century France than today. He mentions the vin de paille of Alsace, two types from Argentat in the Corrèze (way upriver of modern bergerac), one of them slightly sparkling, and what sounds like a magnificent example from the Sciacarello grape made at Sartène in corsica. He also makes clear that Muscat de rivesaltes was then a true raisin wine, often the result of twisting grape stems on the vine, and not, as now, a fortified blend. In contemporary France, the tradition survives only in the vins de paille of Hermitage and the Jura, made as curiosities by two or three producers in each region, in quantities so tiny that they rarely reach the market.

In Spain, the classical traditions continued in muted form through the Muslim occupation and were revived thereafter. The most notable surviving derivatives are the Andalusian specialities sherry, montilla, and málaga, whose richer styles have always been made with semi-dried grapes, but these are not pure dried-grape wines because most (although not Telmo Rodriguez’ Molino Réal Malaga) are now fortified. Elsewhere in Spain the tradition is almost extinct.

Surprisingly few dried-grape wines can be found in Greece today. The rich wines of Sámos date from the replanting of the island’s vineyards in the 16th century but those of santorini (Thíra of the ancients) are descendants of the classical prototypes, as is the now fortified commandaria of Cyprus.

There are records of straw wine (Strohwein) being made in franken in Germany; a rich red dried-grape wine just over the border in Switzerland from Italy’s valtellina; a ‘green’ wine of remarkable strength produced near Cotnar on the borders of Moldova and Romania (see cotnari); and of course the rather special case of tokaji in Hungary. The last survives; most of the others have vanished. The only notable additions to the once splendid roll-call of wines from the old Austro-Hungarian empire are a few straw wines and reed wines from austria.

Redding mentions Shahoni, the ‘royal grape’ of the province of Cashbin in Persia, claiming that ‘the grapes are kept over the winter, and remain on the vine a good deal of the time in linen bags’, and also lists from Argentina a ‘sweet wine, resembling Malaga, made at Mendoza at the foot of the Andes, on their eastern side’ and the famous constantia from South Africa, now being revived. In modern times there have also been experiments with dried-grape wines in California and Australia.

254
Q

Dried- Grape Wines: Modern production techniques

A

Grapes with maximum extract and sugars are required, which normally entails restricting yields. Such grapes may be picked either before, at, or after full ripeness. Twisting the stalk was once practised in Veneto but most growers now prefer to dry their grapes off the vine.

Those who pick slightly before full maturation claim there is less risk of rot, thicker skins, enhanced resistance during drying, and higher acidity, all of which favour aroma, freshness, balance, and longevity—and concentrate the grapes which remain on the vine.

Only the ripest, healthiest grapes are generally picked, which today means a pre-selection by experienced pickers (although see recioto). Healthy grapes are vital since any incipient mould or rot soon spreads during the drying process. Skins must remain intact, to which end the grapes may well be laid in small trays for transport to the winery. The bunches should be spargolo, loose rather than compact, so that air circulates around the individual berries during the all-important drying process.

Sun drying is still practised in places such as the Sicilian island of pantelleria off Tunisia, in southern puglia, and the Greek island of santorini. The process can be many times faster than drying under cover, but this can result in excessive colour, caramelized flavours, and loss of aroma, bypassing some of the microbiological transformations which are the essence of fine dried-grape wine.

Most grape drying for commercial purposes happens in a winery loft, where windows may be opened to let in plenty of air (essential against the development of rot and mould). Bunches are hung up vertically (on hooks, or on long strings), or laid out horizontally on neutral, bone-dry materials. Straw is rarely used because of its attractions for mice. Wire mesh, nylon nets, and wooden or plastic fruit boxes were 20th-century developments; more traditional cane and rush mats and bamboo racks remain popular in much of Italy. Today, in zones where dried grapes constitute an important factor in the local wine economy, purpose-built grape-drying plants are being created complete with temperature control and wind machines.

The duration of the drying process is dictated by the grape variety, the type of wine required, and microclimatic conditions during drying. Sugar-rich Greek grape varieties such as Muscat, Aleatico, and Malvasia require less time than more northern varieties. Three weeks may suffice for a Muscat whereas a Veronese variety such as garganega for a white Recioto or corvina, corvinone or Rondinella for a red Recioto or Amarone will need three to four months, in some cases, for Recioto, even up to six months. Ideal conditions include considerable currents of dry air, and humidity is such a problem in some valley sites that drying facilities are being moved to higher elevations. Excessive heat is generally regarded as negative, as is excessive cold.

The main effect of drying grapes is loss of water and the consequent concentration of sugars. The relationship between water loss and sugar gain is relatively direct so that a water loss of a third from grapes picked at 12 °baumé would result in a wine of 16% alcohol (if all the sugar were fermented out). Depending on the wine style desired, the loss of grape weight by evaporation varies between 10 and 60%, with the norm for a passito wine being somewhere in the region of 35 to 40%, so the potential alcohol is raised by just over a third.

Other components behave less predictably. The total acidity in grapes undergoing a 40% dehydration rises not by 40% but by around 25%. These and other organic substances undergo various transformations, and there may be development of certain aromas and loss of others in the process. The longer the drying period, the greater the biological change of organic substances and resultant wine quality.

noble rot may develop on the grapes during dehydration but it is not desired by most practitioners, particularly those making the drier styles of dried-grape wines such as Amarone. A further problem is insect infestation, particularly of bees, wasps, and hornets.

Crushing or pressing should ideally be as gentle as possible. Gravity, but certainly not centrifugation, may be used to clarify white must, while in the case of red wines, stems may be totally or only partially removed.

The must of raisined grapes is so concentrated that it slows fermentation, an effect accentuated in cooler climates, especially where the long drying period may mean that the grapes are crushed in midwinter and the ambient temperature is naturally low. In Italy, fermentation may therefore safely take place in wood, and may need to be started by heating or by adding specially cultured local yeast. In traditional areas, the right yeasts have been in the atmosphere for centuries. Saccharomyces uvarum begins the job in Valpolicella, according to Masi, while Saccharomyces bayanus is able to work at higher temperatures and at the alcoholic strength of 16% or more that is necessary for many Amarones.

Some producers allow the fermentation to stop and start for months or even, as in the case of the late Giuseppe Quintarelli, two to three years, and allow Nature to decide how sweet the final wine will be. Most, however, use racking and, increasingly, refrigeration to stop fermentation.

The wine is then generally racked off its lees and the lees sometimes used to enrich normal valpolicella, the process called ripasso. In Tuscany, the so-called governo process is employed.

Dried grape wines tend to be particularly high in volatile acids, a direct result of high sugar levels (accentuated if any botrytized grapes have been included). The acetic acid of such a wine may well exceed legal levels, sometimes entailing unacceptably high sulfur dioxide additions. Many argue that high levels of volatile acidity are essential to the quality of such wines, and some maintain that false ‘passito’ wines can be exposed precisely by improbably low levels of acetic acid.

Dried grape wines may be divided into two categories: those in which the fresh primary aromas are retained and those in which primary aromas are sacrificed to the development of a more complex bouquet. The former include most wines based on aromatic varieties such as Muscat, Brachetto, Aleatico, and Riesling, as well as sweet whites where the emphasis is on fruit, such as Recioto di Soave. These are subjected as far as possible to protective winemaking techniques.

Vin de paille and Vin Santo, with their rancio character, are the most notable examples of the oxidative style. Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella of the traditional type are also treated oxidatively, the aim being to incorporate in the final tasting experience an evolution of aromas due in some measure to exposure to oxygen. Traditional Amarone and Recioto are, typically, the result of prolonged maceration, deliberately frequent racking, and ageing for years in large, old barrels. Strong, dry Valpolicella Amarone is a notable example, as is Vin Santo with the rancio character encouraged by traditionalists. Since the 1980s, there has been a movement away from such classic styles, however, and modernist Amarone and Recioto producers are aiming for more fruit-driven wines.

Italy produces more dried-grape wine than anywhere else, not least because of the dramatic increase in Amarone production, but experimentation with the technique has spread to Australia, South America, North America, and much of Europe.

255
Q

Emmerich Knoll- Region of Production:

A

Wachau, Austria

256
Q

Emmerich Knoll- Winery Location:

A

Unterloiben

257
Q

Emmerich Knoll- Year Established:

A

1825

258
Q

Emmerich Knoll- Summary:

A

Family-operated Weingut Emmerich Knoll, currently run by Emmerich II, is known for some of the most age-worthy and terroir-driven expressions of the Unterloiben. Across several unique vineyard sites on the northern bank of the Danube, Emmerich and sons tend to predominantly Grüner Veltliner and Riesling (over 90%) as well as Chardonnay, Gelber Muskateller, Rivaner, Gelber Traminer and Pinot Noir.

259
Q

Emmerich Knoll- Principal Vineyard Holdings:

A

15 ha

Loibenberg: mostly loess and loam with a granite and gneiss topsoil; southern exposure and one of the warmest sites in the Wachau

Schütt: primarily granite, loess and loam; southeastern exposure at 1,500 feet above sea level

Kellerberg: primarily Gfoehler gneiss and slate, a cooler Wachau expression with a southeast exposure

Kreutles: mostly loess and loam with a granite and gneiss topsoil; directly below the Loibenberg with a slightly less steep aspect than Loibenberg

Pfaffenberg (Kremstal): primarily gneiss, granite, schist and loess; very steep slopes above the Danube

260
Q

Emmerich Knoll- Average Total Production:

A

12,500 cases

261
Q

Emmerich Knoll- Top Wines Produced:

A

Loibenberg Riesling Smaragd

Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd

Loibenberg Riesling Federspiel

Schütt Riesling Smaragd

Schütt Grüner Veltliner Smaragd

Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd

Kreutles Grüner Veltliner Federspiel

Kreutles Grüner Veltliner Smaragd

Grüner Veltliner Beerenauslese

Pfaffenberg “Selection” Riesling

262
Q

Emmerich Knoll- Style / Vinification Techniques:

A

Grapes are hand-harvested and malolactic fermentation is blocked. Large, inert oak foudres are employed almost exclusively (some steel is used) for oxidative purposes. Knoll’s Smaragd Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are renowned for being able to age for decades. In addition to his dry bottlings, Knoll produces a Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese in vintages conducive to botrytis (including 2000, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007). The labels adorning Knoll’s bottles depict St. Urban, the patron saint of winemaking, in glorious detail.

263
Q

What is the oldest winery in Austria?

A

Nikolaihof, over 2000 years old. Was also one of the first wineries in the world to embrace Biodynamics under the strict Demeter Regs.

264
Q

How old is Salomon Undof in Austria?

A

Over 200 years old.

265
Q

Where is Langenlois located?

A

70kms, West of Vienna

266
Q

Kamptal

A

Derives it’s name from the River Kamp. It is within the state of Niedosterreich. It’s centre is the town of Langenlois, 25kms west of Vienna. It is the region most most dominated by terroir in Austria. V/ yards are on steep sth facing terraces with lots of loess in the soil and burning sunshine. Heilgenstein, one of the best known vineyards in Austria is here. The convergence of warm Pannonian breezes and cool breezes and cool influences from nrth also help to confer aromas and racy acidity to the grapes.

267
Q

Kremstal

A

Around the twin towns of Krem- Stein that delineate the Kremstal region from its more illustrious and scenically dramatic neighbour the Wachau. Karen’s has a history that dates back at least a millennium when monks who followed Charlemagne’s army down the Danube saw the potential of the sth facing terraces.

268
Q

Wachau

A

Most famous and smallest wine district. 3% of the country. Situated along 33kms on the banks of the Danube. In 2000 it was declared the Wachau to be a world cultural heritage landscape.

269
Q

How old is Kremstal?

A

It dates back to 15BC

270
Q

How big is Kremstal and how high is the region?

A

2400 ha/ 5900 acres at 210-280 m above sea level

271
Q

What is the soil type of Kremstal?

A

Loess Soil

272
Q

Where are the two towns of Krems and Stein located?

A

In the “World Cultural Heritage Site” Wachau

273
Q

Where does the name Stein come from?

A

Urgestein the name of the primary rock soils of the Stone terraces, which consists of primarily of gneis, granite and/or schist

274
Q

Where do the Weingut Brundlmayer vineyards lie?

A

On the hills around Langenlois, 70kms west of Vienna

275
Q

What does Erste Lage in Austria mean?

A

First growth

276
Q

What did Austria used to be called?

A

Osterreich

277
Q

When did the city of Vienna become a viticultural hub?

A

The 13th Century

278
Q

When was the first record of Trockenbeerenauslese recorded?

A

In 1526, this predates Spatlese in Germany by over 200 years.

279
Q

After World War 2 where was Austria placed on the world wine scene?

A

It was the 3rd largest producer

280
Q

What were the innovations and developments that helped the Austrian wine industry in the 20th Century?

A
  • The research institute at Klosterneuberg, built in 1860 focused on grape crossing and higher yields
  • Mechinisation of the vineyards followed Dr Lenz Moser’s development of wire trellising systems in the 1950s
281
Q

What was the scandal that hurt the Austrian wine industry in the 1980s?

A

Diethylene glycol, a colourless, oderless, poisonous chemical which helped to provide texture to light Wines. It was only found out when in 1985 one of the wineries tried to claim it as a winery expense. This meant that Austria bought in the strictest wine laws of any country in Europe.

282
Q

Where is Winemaking in Austria confined to?

A

The eastern side of the country

283
Q

From north to south what are the four Winemaking regions (weinbaugebiete) of Austria?

A

Niederosterreich, Wien (Vienna), Burgenland, Styria (Steiermark). Niederosterreich and Burgenland contain about 90% of the countries vineyards

284
Q

What is the most cultivated grape variety in Austria?

A

White; Gruner Veltliner, then Welschriesling, Muller Thurgau, Weisiburgunder, Riesling and Chardonnay (also known as Morillon and Feinburgunder)

285
Q

What are the three level of quality in the Austrian wine quality?

A

Wein, Landwein, Qualitatswein,

286
Q

Qualitatswein (Austria)

A
  • Highest quality and regional specifity
  • Must be sourced from a single weinbaugebiete or 16 smaller wine regions
  • Must be permitted from 1 of 36 permitted grapes
  • 2/3rds of Austria’s production
  • Must pass a tasting panel and chemical analysis, which is indicated by a Prufnummer, and the inclusion of a red and white banderolecon the bottle’s capsule
287
Q

Wein (Austria)

A
  • A generic category that replaced Tafelwein in time for 2009
  • May contain a vintage date and a Varietal on the label, but can’t exhibit more a statement of Origin than Osterreich
288
Q

Landwein (Austria)

A
  • Is restricted to the same 36 varieties permitted for Qualitatswein
  • Wines are labeled with three broad geographic areas (Weinbauregionen): Weinland, Steierland Or Bergland
289
Q

Wienland/ Steierland/ Bergland (Austria)

A
  • Wienland; Covers the whole area of Niederosterreich, Wien and Burgenland
  • Steierland corresponds to Steiermark
  • Burgland; includes around 500 ha of vineyard land scattered throughout the remainder of Austria’s mountainous countryside
  • All three level must share a maximum yield of 9,000 kg/ ha (67.5 hl/ ha) but minimum must weights increase with each level of quality
290
Q

What are the Austrian categories of Qualitatswien subdivided into?

A

Pradikatswein and Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC)

291
Q

What is the minimum alcohol content for Pradikatswein in Austria?

A

5%

292
Q

In Austria, Kabinett Wines are considered a subset of__________________

A

Qualitatswein, however, even at the Kabinett Level winemakers are prohibited from practicing both chaptalization and the addition of Sussreserve

293
Q

What are the other categories of Austria?

A

Strohwein (a dried grape wine of at least Beerenauslese ripeness) and Ausbruch (a sweet speciality of Rust, a free city on the western shore of Neusiedlersee)

294
Q

Where are most of Austria’s lusciously sweet wines are produced where?

A

Around the lake of Neusiedlersee in Burgenland, but most of the countries Wines are fermented dry.

295
Q

What is the focus of the DAC system in Austria?

A

Dry wines. It is designed to align Austrian regions with Wien profiles in the mind of the consumer, much like the French and Italian systems.

296
Q

In 2017, 11 DACs have been developed in Austria. They are?

A

Weinviertel (2002), Mittelburgenland (2005), Traisental (2006), Kremstal (2007), Kamptal (2008), Leithaberg (2009), Eisenberg (2010), Neusiedlersee (2012), Weiner Genmischter Satz (2013), Schilcherland (2017) and Rosalia (2018)

297
Q

What does each DAC of Austria need for their attributes?

A
  • Prescribed limited grape varietals
  • Minimum alcohol content
  • Stylistic choices of the producer
298
Q

In 2013 what committee was formed to highlight Austrian Sekt?

A

The Austrian Sekt committee, it was formed to bring attention to high quality Sekt. Austrian Sekt with Protected Designation Of Origin became a legal category (distinct from “normal” Austrian Sekt).

299
Q

What are the categories of Austrian Sekt?

A

Klassik
Reserve
Grosse Reserve

300
Q

Klassik- Austrian Sekt

A
  • The grapes must come from one of Austria’s federal states
  • Must spend nine months on lees
  • Tank, transfer and traditional methods are all allowed
  • All dosage levels/ Styles and colours may be produced
301
Q

Reserve- Austrian Sekt

A
  • Traditional Method
  • Grapes must be grown and vinified In one of Austria’s federal state
  • 18 months on lees is required at minimum
  • Vintage must be listed
  • Finished product can only be Brut, Extra Brut or Brut Nature
302
Q

Grosse Reserve- Austrian Sekt

A
  • Top of the top
  • More stringent rules
  • Grapes must come from a single village
  • Hand harvesting is required
  • Vineyard names must be listed on the label along with the vintage
  • The wine must sit on the lees for a minimum of 30 months
  • May not be released until 3 yrs after harvest
  • Reserve and Grosse Reserve May not hold more than 12 grams per litre of residual sugar, this means Wines must be Brut, Extra Brut, or Brut Nature
  • Hausersekt may be on the label. This means that the wine was produced by a single producer
303
Q

What must an Austrian Sekt with Protected Designation Of Origin have on their label over an Austrian Sekt?

A

They must carry the offical seal on the capsule with the words “Geschutzter Ursprung, geprufte Qualitat” meaning “Protected Designation Of Origin and certified quality”

304
Q

Niederosterreich

A
  • Also known as Lower Austria
  • Largest winegrowing region in the country
  • In Southern Niederosterreich, the Pannonian Plain- a former seabed Of loess soils stretches from eastern Austria through Hungary and many countries of the former eastern bloc.
  • Continental climate ushers in hot, dry summers and severe winters; the seasonal divide is much more pronounced than in many of the milder winegrowing climates of Western Europe
305
Q

What are the 8 subzones Of Niederosterreich?

A

Weinviertel, Carnumtum, Traisental, Wagram, Kremstal, Kamptal, Wachau, and Thermenregion

306
Q

Weinviertel- Niederosterreich

A
  • Largest subzone Of Niederosterreich, first Austrian DAC
  • Located in the hills north of the Danube and the Pannonian Plain
  • Fresher, lighter wines in a cooler climate
  • DAC Wines must be produced from Gruner Veltliner, minimum alc of 12%
  • Approved by a tasting panel, the wine must show distinct pepper notes, no obvious wood or Botrytis tones
  • There is a reserve category. These can produce fuller bodied wine that show a minimum alcohol of 13%, and may revel hints of both Botrytis and wood
307
Q

Traisental/ Kamptal/ Kremstal DACs- Niederosterreich

A
  • Wines can be produced from either Gruner Veltliner or Riesling
  • Can be labeled either Classic or Reserve with a corresponding minimum alcohol content of either 12% or 13%
  • No notes of obvious notes of either Botrytis or wood in the Classic examples
  • Gruners from these three DACs show delicate spice, rather than pungent white pepper of Weinviertel
  • Kremstal and Kamptal- Western Niederosterreich, along the Krems and Kamp Rivers, tributaries of the Danube
308
Q

What is one of the most important wine towns in Austria?

A

Langenlois in Kamptal, the vineyards in this area (Heiligenstein, Lamy and Dechant) are highly regarded.

309
Q

The old way of labelling the Austrian wine labels was not to mention the village name but instead mention_________

A

Ried, indicating a top Site

310
Q

In 2010 what happened to some of the top sites throughout Kremstal, Kamptal, Wagram and Traisental………

A

52 top sites were elevated to the status of Erste Lage by the Osterreichischen Traditionalsweinguter, an association founded in 1992. This classification is not legally recognised yet, but the orgiansation is closely aligned itself to the DAC concept, and only Gruner Veltliner and Riesling are permitted to carry the Austrian Erste Lage Logo

311
Q

Mittelburgenland DAC produces red wines from?

A

Blaufrankisch, which may be sold from March 1 in the year following harvest. Reserve Wines undergo an additional year of aging and have a higher min alc content- 13% as opposed to 12.5%

312
Q

Leithaberg is the DAC to……?

A

Allow both red and white wines (Gruner, Chardonnay, Neuberger or Weissburgunder). Reds are 85% (min) Blaufrankish

313
Q

What’s Blaufrankisch known as in Hungary and Germany?

A

Lemberger (Ger) and Hungary known as Kekfrankos

314
Q

Although Burgenland has mainly Blaufrankish……

A

Zwegelt is increasing, and it’s parent (low tannin) St Laurent is increasing.

315
Q

In 2012 Neusiedlersee DAC is becoming famous for producing?

A

Zwegelt. It can be produced either classic or Reserve (1 year extra before release).

316
Q

Rosalia- Burgenland

A
  • Mono Varietal (either Blaufrankish or Zwegelt)
  • Minimum alc of 12% abv
  • Max R/S Of 4 g/ ltr
  • Single vineyard (rieds) may be on the label
  • Reserve wines must have a min alc of 13% abv
  • Also allows dry rose wines
  • Varietal labelling, not allowed but single vineyard is allowed
  • Became offical in 2018
317
Q

In Burgenland white grapes……..

A

Are on the decrease, but awesome sweet wines are made in both of the Northern subregions

318
Q

What producer in Neusiedlersee is home to some of the best BA and TBA expression?

A

Alois Kracher

319
Q

Which city in the Neusiedlersee produces Ausbruch?

A

Rust

320
Q

What is Ausbruch?

A

It’s a traditionally produced sweet wine dating back to the 17th Century. Grapes are harvested at 30o KMW (150o Ochsle). Very similar to Tokaji. Richly concentrated, Botrytis affected must is added to less concentrated must- from fruit harvested in the same v/yard- the two are then fermented together, then aged in barrel before release.

321
Q

What are the grapes of Ausbruch?

A

Traditionally: Furmint
Nowerdays: Chardonnay, Muskateller, Pinot Blanc, Neuberger, Welschriesling, Traminer, Pinot Gris

322
Q

Is there a DAC currently for the sweet wines of Burgenland?

A

Nope

323
Q

What is Styria also known as?

A

Steiermark

324
Q

What is Styria?

A

A mountainous region to the south of Burgenland

325
Q

What are the subregions of Styria?

A

Sudstiermark, Weststeiermark and Sudosteiermark (also known as Vulkanland Steiermark)

326
Q

What % of the nation’s v/yards does Styria produce?

A

9%

327
Q

What is the most cultivated grape in Styria?

A

Welschriesling (an inferior grape unrelated to Riesling). The other grapes of the region are Weissburgunder and Traminer. All work well on the volcanic slopes of Vulkanland Steiermark.

328
Q

What white grape Varietal stars in Sudsteriermark?

A

Sauvignon Blanc

329
Q

Schilcherland DAC- Styria

A
  • 2017
  • Racy rose from Blauer Wildbacher
  • Can be either”classic” or “Ried” (if a single vineyard is listed)
  • Only existed for the 2017 vintage
330
Q

In 2018 Styria earned 3 DAC zones. What are they?

A

Vulkanland Steiermark DAC, Sudsteiermark DAC and Weststeiermark DAC (this reabsorbed the schilscher wine style). 2018 also launched a 3 tier “system of Origin Steiermark”- set up to promote wines of the region and also set quality standards.

331
Q

“System Of Origin Steiermark”- Styria

A

Base of the pyramid- Regional Wine, then Ortswein (village wine), top of the pyramid- Riedenwein (single v/yard Wines)

332
Q

Wien- Austria

A
  • Danube River
  • Surrounded on 3 sides by Thermenregion, Carnuntum and Weinviertel and Wagram
  • 600 ha of vines, the only capital city in Europe to have a wine appellation in its limits
  • Gemischser Satz is produced
  • Heuriger (Nouveau wine consumed in taverns) also produced
333
Q

What year did Wiener Gemischer Satz recieves it’s own DAC?

A

In 2013. A white wine blend of at least 3 varietials. The even fresher Sturm- half fermented, sparkling grape juice- harvest time drink.

334
Q

In Austria where are some of the best vineyards located?

A

The Wachau, Niederosterreich’s westernmost subregion

335
Q

The Wachau……

A

Is a narrow band of steep slopes b/ween Melk and Kremstal along the banks of the Danube. Helps moderate the continental climate

336
Q

In the Wachau which side of the river do the best v/yards sit?

A

They are on terraced slopes on the north bank, much like the Mosel

337
Q

What are the soils of the Wachau like?

A

Loess and gfohler, or gneiss, with some alluvial sand in the lower v/yard sites near the river’s edge

338
Q

What are the three levels of classification that are used in Wachau instead Of Pradikatswein?

A

Steinfeder, Federspeil and Smaragd

339
Q

Steinfelder- Wachau

A
  • Local grass found in the v/yards
  • Lightest style
  • Minimum must weight of 15o KMW
  • Max alc of 11.5%
340
Q

Federspiel- Wachau

A
  • A falconer’s tool
  • Minimum must weight 17o KMW
  • Final alcohol range of 11.5%- 12.5%
341
Q

Smaragd- Wachau

A
  • An emerald lizard who basks on the terrace

- Minimum alc of 12.5% Minimum must weight of 19o KMW

342
Q

What village in the Wachau has a very well esteemed vineyard?

A

Weiss en Kirklen vineyard in Achleiten

343
Q

Who are 3 of the finest producers in the Wachau?

A

FX Pichler
Prager
Emmerich Koll

All three are members of Vinea Wachau

344
Q

What is Vinea Wachau?

A

An organisation that is tenement to natural winemaking as spelled out in the Codex Wachau: no additives (including chaptalisation), no aromatization (including new barriques) and no fractionation (techniques such as de-alcoholisation). All Wines must be bottled in the region and vinified from grapes grown in the Wachau. Est 1983, it controls more than 85% of the Regions v/yard acerage

345
Q

What was Wagram originally known as?

A

Donauland until 2007, Wagram follows the course of the Danube as it passes out of Vienna

346
Q

What is the main grape of Wagram?

A

Gruner Weltliner, but Roter Veltliner (an unrelated red grape) produced as a white wine

347
Q

What two wine regions are south of Vienna?

A

Carnuntum and Thermenregion

348
Q

Thermenregion experiences the full force of………..

A

The hot Pannonian summers

349
Q

What rare white grapes are special for Thermenregion?

A

Rotgipfler and Zierfandler. They can either be produced varietally or a blended Spatrot- Rotgipfler

350
Q

Carnuntum has a sunny climate. This is similar to?

A

Burgenland. Production of Carnuntum is orientated towards red wines, particularly Zweigelt

351
Q

What is the name of traditional field blends from Carnuntum?

A

Gemischter Satz

352
Q

What is the region of Austria that is famous for the best red and sweet Wines?

A

Burgenland

353
Q

What is the country that Burgenland is close to?

A

Hungary. It has a similar climatic traits as some of their regions

354
Q

What is the name of the river that cools the region of Burgenland?

A

Neusiedlersee. It also divides the regions of Neusiedlersee and Neusiedlersee- Hugelland to the West. But as of 2016 Neusiedlersee is no longer recognised as a wine region.

355
Q

What are the 5 DAC Zones Of Burgenland?

A

Mittelburgenland, Leithaberg, Eisenberg, Neusiedlersee and Rosalia.