Aromatic Whites

Question 1

DONNHOFF, “Auslese”, Nahe, Germany, 2015 (375ml)

Answer 1

Riesling

$69

The 2015 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese was selected shortly before the Spätlese and is a selection of super ripe and the rarely botrytis grapes. The wine has a super ripe and warm fruit bouquet with some spicy and flinty aromas. On the palate, this is a piquant and generous Riesling with clear definition and lingering complexity and salinity. It has very good grip.

Question 2

MANNI NOSSING, Alto Adige, Italy, 2016

Answer 2

Kerner

$49

Powerfully scented of mountain meadow flowers and white fruit. A genetic cross between Riesling and the red Schiava, Kerner thrives in Alto Adige. Manni’s complex, mineral-infused rendition is among the best.

Grape Variety: Kerner
Vine Age: 2-15 years
Soil: Sandy, Granite

Vinification:
• Guyot training
• All grapes are harvested by hand and brought to the winery in crates of 200 kilos within 30 minutes
• Grapes are destemmed and gently pressed, then the must settles for 24-48 hours
• After fermentation the wines age on the fine lees for eight months
• None of the wines undergoes malolactic fermentation

Ratings & Reviews

89 Points - Antonio Galloni:
“Manni Nössing’s 2014 Kerner is one of the best wines readers will find in this very challenging year for Alto Adige whites. Green pear, apple and flowers are all pushed forward. All the signatures of this wine - typically one of the very best in Alto Adige - are present, just expressed with a hushed voice.” - Antonio Galloni (February 2016)

Question 3

HEIDI SCHROCK, Burgenland, Austria, 2017

Answer 3

Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc)

$54

“Equally good out of two different glasses; broad and salty in the big bowl, denser and fruitier in the tulip, but oyster-shells in both, flowering-fields and mint. One of Heidi’s best-ever vintages of this, and an argument for Austria’s pre-eminence as a Pinot Blanc producer.” Terry Theise

Question 4

HEIDI SCHROCK, Burgenland, Austria, 2017

Answer 4

Furmint

$64

Elegant and very fine, with a waft of graphite and cardamom behind the melon and blood orange notes, lingering with traces of sea salt and chalk. The lovely, coating texture adds to the charm. Fine length. Drink now through 2024

This has been leaning “natural” or in other words, aldehydic, and I’m not sure I welcome it. You may feel different if your palate is “conditioned” to these elements. I personally think Furmint is inherently exotic enough and should probably be made scrupulously. In the tulip it was like a chewy and somewhat edgy-funky Chenin, quite dense in texture, with only an inference of chamomile. Heidi won’t be surprised to read this, as I spoke with her about it. She knows I don’t want her Furmint to be modern, just on the safe side of funky - TT

Question 5

VON WINNING, “Winnings”, Pfalz, Germany, 2017

Answer 5

Riesling

$45

Shrubby scents of boxwood and rosemary mingle with dried apricot and zesty lime, anticipating the pungent initial attack and subsequent grip with which this seizes the palate. Happily, there is a wealth of primary juiciness. Schwarz captured the whole point of “Winnings,” stylistically speaking, when he called attention to “the discreet residual that you detect on the finish, not for the sake of sweetness, but because it prolongs the fruit and lends harmony to the whole flavor profile.