Alsace Flashcards
Where is Alsace?
North Eastern border of France
Alsace OCW Intro
Alsace, historically much-disputed region now on the eastern border of France, producing a unique style of largely varietal wine, about 90% of which is white. For much of its existence it has been the western German region Elsass. Because of its location it has been the subject of many a territorial dispute between France and Germany. Now separated from Germany by the river rhine, and from the rest of France by the Vosges mountains, the language and culture of Alsace owe much to both origins, but are at the same time unique. Many families speak Alsacien, a dialect peculiar to the region, quite different from either French or German.
Of all the regions of France, this is the one in which it is still easiest to find villages outwardly much as they were in the Middle Ages, with traditional half-timbered houses and extant fortifications. The hilltops of the lower Vosges are dotted with ruined castles and fortresses, witnesses to past invasions.
Of more than 4,000 grape growers, about 950 bottle wine but more than 60% of total production is sold by one of the 20 biggest négociants and co-operatives. Even the large companies are usually family owned, however. One of the unique aspects of Alsace is that even the smallest producers regularly bottle at least six to eight different wines each year, while the larger producers may extend to a range of 20 to 30 different bottlings.
All Alsace wines are, by law, bottled in the region of production in tall bottles called flutes (which some think may hinder sales because they are hardly the height of fashion).
Alsace OCW History
For details of the earlier history of the region, see german history. Annexed by France in the 17th century, Alsace was reclaimed, with part of Lorraine, by the new German empire in 1871. The vineyards were used to produce cheap blending wines. After the twin crises of oïdium (powdery mildew) and phylloxera, hybrids to give large, trouble-free crops were planted on the flat, easily accessible land on the plains. The finer, steeper, hillside sites, formerly revered, were largely abandoned.
Following the First World War, when Alsace returned to French rule, up to a third of these better sites were replanted with the vinifera varieties. A setback occurred with the Second World War, when export was impossible, and the area was once again overrun by Germany. Replanting of the better sites gathered momentum in the 1960s and 1970s, when Alsace once again started to build up export markets.
Alsace OCW Geography and Climate
Alsace lies between latitudes 47.5 degrees and 49 degrees north of the equator, giving a long, cool growing season. It is important for the vineyards to make the most of the sun’s rays, and so most of the best vineyards are on south, south west, or south east facing slopes, sheltered from the wind by the Vosges. Average annual rainfall is one of the lowest in France, due to the influence of the Vosges mountains: 500 mm/19 in in Colmar, varying considerably according to site. Most vineyards are at an elevation of between 175 m and 550 m (1,804 ft) in the Munster Valley, above which level much of the mountainside is covered with pine forests. Autumn humidity allows for the production of late-picked vendanges tardives—and sélection de grains nobles—wines (see below) in good vintages.
The narrow vineyard strip runs from north to south, along the lower contours of the Vosges Mountains (see map under germany), and spans the two French départements of Haut-Rhin and Bas-Rhin. The majority of large producers are based in the more southerly Haut-Rhin département, which is generally associated with better quality, especially for Alsace’s characteristic Gewurztraminer (spelt Gewürztraminer in Germany) and Pinot Gris, producing fatter, more powerful wines towards the south of the region. In the Bas-Rhin, individual vineyard sites become even more important to ensure full ripeness.
There are at least 20 major soil formations within the Alsace wine region, covering several eras. Higher, steeper slopes of the Vosges have thin topsoil, with subsoils of weathered gneiss, granite, sandstone, schist, and volcanic sediments. The gentler lower slopes, derived from the Rhine delta bed, have deeper topsoils, over subsoils of clay, marl, limestone, and sandstone. One of the most important subsoils is the pink grès de Vosges, Vosges sandstone, which was used extensively in the construction of churches and cathedrals, and which is much in evidence in Strasbourg. The plains at the foot of the Vosges are of alluvial soils, eroded from the Vosges, and are rich and fertile, generally more suited to the production of crops other than vines.
Winters can be very cold, spring is generally mild, and the summer is warm and sometimes very dry, with heavy hail and thunderstorms possible in summer and autumn. In some vintages summer drought can be a problem, and younger vines planted in the drier, sandy soils can suffer, whereas vineyards on the water-retentive clay soils have an advantage.
As a general rule, the heavier clay and marl soils give a wine with broader flavours, more body and weight, while a lighter limestone or sandy soil gives more elegance and finesse. Flint, schist, shale, and slate soils tend to give wines with a characteristic oily, minerally aroma reminiscent of petrol and sometimes described as ‘gunflint’, especially those made from the Riesling grape.
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Alsace OCW Viticulture
The varied styles of training in use depend partly on the steepness of the vineyard. Either single guyot, with up to 15 buds left on the cane, or double Guyot, with up to eight buds on each cane, may be found, with a vine density of between 4,400 and 4,800 vines per ha (1,940 per acre). There are also some cordon-trained vines, with spur pruning, generally on older vines. The range of maximum permitted yields is given below, although each year the permitted yield can be altered upwards or downwards by decree.
Vines are generally trained at a height of between 60 and 90 cm (35 in) above ground, depending on the site. Vines on the plain are generally trained high to avoid frosts, while sloping vineyards can be trained closer to the ground, benefiting to the maximum from the available sunlight.
The steepest vineyard slopes may be terraced, as for example the grand cru sites of Rangen and Kastelberg, or vines may be planted in rows either following the contours of the slope, or vertically from top to bottom, depending on the risk of soil erosion. cover crops may be planted to prevent erosion and to give more of a grip to tractors on moderate slopes.
Although mechanical harvesting is common on the plains, many vineyards are too steep for machines, and many grapes are still hand picked. The vintage is always protracted, with varieties ripening at different times. Generally, harvesting starts in mid September, and often continues well into November.
A few growers have experimented with late-picked, botrytized wines, not merely for the four varieties permitted for the late-harvest wines described below, but also with such diverse varieties as Auxerrois and Sylvaner, which can make outstanding wines. One or two growers produce a small quantity of vin de paille, from healthy, ripe grapes picked in October, and dried on straw over the winter months. There have also been experiments with eiswein, from healthy grapes picked in December, and even in early January.
Alsace OCW Vine Varieties
At the beginning of the 20th century, the many varieties planted in Alsace were divided into ‘noble’ and others. The number has been rationalized over the years, and now the region produces eight major varietal wines: riesling, Gewurztraminer (gewürztraminer), pinot gris, pinot noir, pinot blanc, muscat, chasselas, and sylvaner. Chasselas is generally used for blending, and only a handful of producers still bottle it as a varietal. auxerrois is also planted, and is usually blended with and labelled as Pinot Blanc, although it does sometimes feature on a label. There has also been some interest in planting the ubiquitous chardonnay, forbidden by law, but tolerated when labelled as Pinot Blanc, or used in the sparkling wine crémant d’Alsace.
Most growers, wherever in the region they are based, plant all of the above varieties. As some varieties fetch higher prices, and some are much more fussy about vineyard site, each grower must make an economic as well as a practical decision when deciding what to plant where. Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois are among the first to ripen, and are viticulturally easy to please. The later ripening Riesling and Sylvaner need to be planted on a sheltered site, and are much more demanding. Muscat and Gewurztraminer are the most unreliable producers; unsettled weather at flowering time can seriously shrink the crop, so the site should be sheltered.
Riesling was (just) the most widely planted variety in 2012, accounting for nearly 22% of the area under vine. Plantations are steadily increasing, mainly in place of Sylvaner, which has been losing ground, and by 2012 accounted for only 7.5% of the area planted, with higher proportions in the Bas-Rhin than the Haut-Rhin. Pinot Blanc and the more common Auxerrois have also been on the increase, accounting for another 21% between them. Gewurztraminer is grown on almost as much land but usually represents a smaller percentage of the production, which can fluctuate alarmingly. Its average yield is the smallest of all the varieties. The largest plantations of Gewurztraminer are in the Haut-Rhin. Pinot Gris has become increasingly popular and accounted for more than 15% of plantings by 2012. Pinot Noir has also increased its share as the only red varietal of Alsace (though Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer are definitely pink-skinned varieties). It represented almost 10% of the total vineyard area in 2012. The area planted with muscat d’alsace and muscat ottonel together represented barely 2% of vineyard area. The total area devoted to Chasselas and Chardonnay, together with the small amounts of other old varieties had fallen to 2.4% by 2012.
Alsace Riesling OCW
Riesling
Considered by growers to be the finest variety, Alsace Riesling is almost invariably bone dry. Young Riesling can display floral aromas, although it is sometimes fairly neutral. With age it takes on complex, gunflint, mineral aromas, with crisp steely acidity and very pure fruit flavours. It is one of the most difficult varieties for beginners, but one of the most rewarding wines for connoisseurs.
Alsace Gewürztraminer OCW
Gewurztraminer
Usually dry to off-dry, but its low acidity, combined with high alcohol and glycerol, often give an impression of sweetness. Gewurztraminer has a distinctive aroma and flavour, with hints of lychees and grapefruit. The naturally high sugar levels of Gewurztraminer make it ideal for late-harvest sweet wines, and this is the most frequent varietal found as Vendanges Tardives. Poorly made examples can be blowsy, flat, over-alcoholic, sometimes oily. Gewurztraminer from the southern end of Alsace, around Eguisheim southwards, tends to have quite a different character, and is generally more aromatic as well as richer in weight.
Alsace Pinot Gris OCW
Pinot Gris
Once known as Tokay-Pinot Gris or Tokay d’Alsace, Pinot Gris has been the only permitted name on labels since 2007 according to an agreement between Hungary and the eu. Pinot Gris was for long underrated in Alsace. It combines some of the spicy flavours of Gewurztraminer with the firm backbone of acidity found in Riesling, giving a wine that ages particularly well. Young Pinot Gris is reminiscent of peaches and apricot, with a hint of smoke, developing biscuity, buttery flavours with age. It can be particularly successful in a Vendanges Tardives style.
Alsace Muscat OCW
Muscat
Two varieties of Muscat are found in Alsace: muscat blanc à petits grains, known as Muscat d’Alsace, and Muscat Ottonel. Most wines are a blend of the two. Alsace Muscat is always dry, and has a fresh grapey aroma and flavour. The taste should be reminiscent of biting into a fresh grape, with young, crisp fruitiness. Muscat is low in alcohol, and quite low in acidity. Because of its sensitivity to poor weather at flowering, yields can vary considerably from year to year.
Alsace Sylvaner OCW
Sylvaner
Sylvaner is difficult to grow, needs a good site and a warm vintage, yet fetches comparatively little money. Good Sylvaner has a slightly bitter, slightly perfumed aroma and flavour, with very firm acidity. It has moderate alcohol, and is at its best when it is young and fresh.
Alsace Pinot Blanc OCW
Pinot Blanc
Also labelled Clevner or Klevner, Pinot Blanc is the workhorse of Alsace. As well as forming the base wine for Crémant d’Alsace, Pinot Blanc can produce very good, clean, dry white that is not particularly aromatic but has good acidity, with moderate alcohol.
Alsace Auxerrois OCW
Auxerrois
This variety is rarely mentioned on the label, although it may form the total or the majority of many wines labelled as Pinot Blanc, Klevner, or Clevner. A wine from pure Auxerrois is spicy, soft, and quite broad, with low acidity and good alcohol. It is occasionally vinified successfully in oak.
Alsace Chasselas OCW
Chasselas
This variety’s name is also seldom seen on the label. It is usually used for Edelzwicker, although the few growers who bottle Chasselas as a varietal can produce a very pretty, quite lightweight wine, dry with soft grapey fruit, low acidity, and light alcohol.
Alsace Edzelwicker OCW
Edelzwicker
Literally, this is German for ‘noble mixture’. A blend of more than one variety can be labelled as Edelzwicker or, more occasionally, as Gentil. It can also be given a general name, such as ‘Fruits de Mer’. Edelzwicker is generally one of the cheapest wines in the range. Chasselas, Pinot Blanc, and Auxerrois are common ingredients.
