Actives vs. Non Actives

Question 1

aloe vera

Answer 1

active: anti-inflammatory, soothing, cooling, moisturizing

Question 2

amino acids

Answer 2

active: found in fatty parts of skin, helps retain oils (moisture), firming

Question 3

azulene

Answer 3

active: derived from chamomile, soothing, antiseptic

Question 4

camphor

Answer 4

active: extracted from the cinnamon tree, stimulating, promotes circulation, renewing, antiseptic

Question 5

ginseng

Answer 5

active: stimulating, exfoliating, antioxidant, promotes circulation

Question 6

jojoba oil

Answer 6

active: similar to skin’s natural oils, reduces water loss in skin, nourishing, moisturizing

Question 7

lanolin

Answer 7

active: derived from sheep’s wool, natural carrier, softening, lubricating, good for dry chapped skin

Question 8

mink oil

Answer 8

active: fatty oil similar to lanolin

Question 9

papaya

Answer 9

active: contains papain enzyme, exfoliating

Question 10

royal jelly

Answer 10

active: produced by bees, extremely nourishing, high vitamin and protein content

Question 11

sulphur

Answer 11

active: antibacterial, antiseptic, reduces excess oil

Question 12

witch hazel (hamamelis)

Answer 12

active: derived from witch hazel bark. astringent, antiseptic, soothing

Question 13

bismuth oxychloride

Answer 13

active: synthetic pearl

Question 14

titanium dioxide

Answer 14

active: physical sunscreen, natural UV protection, white, odourless pigment

Question 15

muscovite

Answer 15

active: derived from sericite mica, adds shimmer

Question 16

sericite mica

Answer 16

active: adds pigment and slight shimmer

Question 17

surfactants

Answer 17

non-active: adds/reduces surface tension, bridges water and oil. Includes emulsifier and detergents

Question 18

emulsifier

Answer 18

non-active: type of surfactant. allows water and oil to blend temporarily or permanently. Can be W/O (water in oil) or O/W (oil in water)

Question 19

detergent

Answer 19

non-active: reduces surface tension to lift water and oil

Question 20

preservatives

Answer 20

non-active: prevents growth of microorganisms (fungi/bacteria), preserves state of the product (gel/balm/lotion), makes product safe to use, extends shelf life

Question 21

acids, alkalines, buffers and neutralizers

Answer 21

non-active: controls pH of product to maintain skin’s pH

Question 22

moisture content controls

Answer 22

non active: increase or decrease water content in the product. Can attract water (e.g. hyaluronic acid) or repel water (e.g. calcium silicate)

Question 23

colouring agents

Answer 23

non-actives: changes colour of the product

Question 24

fragrance

Answer 24

non-active: adds, removes, or neutralizes odour in a product

Question 25

excipient

Answer 25

allows an active ingredient to be carried into the skin (allows the active to perform its function)

Question 26

3 types of ingredients

Answer 26

• functional: makes up the majority of a product
• performance (actives): changes the appearance of skin’s surface, results are immediate and temporary
• cosmeceuticals: cosmetic+pharmeceutical, penetrate past 1st and 2nd layers of the skin

Question 27

O/W Emulsion

Answer 27

• oil droplets in a watery base
• moisture enters skin, softens and prevents dryness
• oils remain on the surface of the skin, reduces moisture loss and lubricates skin
• easily dilutes in water (water soluble)
• e.g. moisturizing lotion, cleansing lotion, sun tan lotion

Question 28

W/O Emulsion

Answer 28

• water droplets in an oily base
• helps prevent moisture loss from skin
• useful for removing grime from skin
• cannot be diluted by adding water (not water-soluble)
• e.g. cold creams, night creams, cleansing creams