8.1 Coastal Processes Flashcards
Definition of Coast
A narrow zone where the land and sea meet and directly interact.
What are the 4 types of factors affecting coasts?
Marine, Human, Atmospheric and Terrestrial
Name 3 marine factors
Wave action
Longshore drift
Currents
Tides
Salinity
Name 3 human factors
Coastal settlements
Recreation and tourism
Port construction
Farming
Land reclamation
Sand and gravel extraction
Pollution- land based and marine
Conservation
Coastal management
Name 2 atmospheric factors
Climate- wind, temperature, rainfall
Climate change- e.g. global warming, ice ages
Name 2 terrestrial factors
Tectonic movements
Geology- rock type and rock structure
Ecosystems- sand dunes, salt marshes, mangroves
What are the 3 factors of wave size
Fetch
Wind strength
Wind duration
Define swash
The body of foaming water that rushes up the beach when a wave breaks.
Define backwash
The water which returns down the beach after a wave has broken.
Define prevailing wind
Wind from the direction that is the predominant or most usual at a particular place or season.
Define wave crest
The top of the wave
Define wave trough
As the water in a wave falls, it forms the wave trough. This is the low point between two wave crests.
Define wave height
The difference in height between a wave crest and a wave trough.
Define wave velocity
the speed of movement of the wave crest.
How do you work out wave velocity
by dividing the average wavelength by the average wave period.
