4 Madeira Flashcards
Describe the terroir of Madeira
CLIMATE
- Warm summers 20-22c and mild winters 16-17c –> winter dormancy on warmer sites = problem
- Rainfall in autumn and winter
- Mountains up to 1,800m
- North and centre of island are cool and wet (>3000mm ) –> vigour
- South - drier and warmer
Topography
- Altitudes up to 800m
SOIL
- Volcanic soil with high nutrients –> vigour
How large is Madeira?
74,000 ha of which 540ha are planted
What impact did powdery mildew and phylloxera have on the grape varieties grown?
Devasted vineyards in c19th
Producers replaced afflicted VV with American and hybrid vines –> quality
EU schemes encouraged replanting of VV
How are grape varieties classified?
Recommended - tend to be VV, includes Tinta Negra which was introduced post-phylloxera
Authorised - mainly varieties introduced post-phylloxera
Describe Tinta Negra and which wines it is used to make.
- Most planted
- Introduced post-phylloxera
- High yielding, easy to grow
- Can state variety on label since 2015 - mainly used for wines with sweetness label, not varietal label
- Makes wine of all sweetness
Describe Sercial and which wines it is used to make.
- Limited plantings
- Late ripening - often picked last esp. on cool sites
- Resistant to powdery mildew, vulnerable to botrytis bunch rot
- Liable to poor fruit set
- High acid
- Driest styles
Describe Verdelho and which wines it is used to make.
- 2nd most planted VV
- Susceptible to botrytis, coulure, downy + powdery mildew
- High acid
Describe Boal and which wines it is used to make.
- Umbrella for number of varieties –> Boal Cachudo = Malvasia Fina
- Likes warm sites - altitude, south
- Susceptible to drought - irrigation
- Semi-sweet wine
Describe Malvasia and which wines it is used to make.
Umbrella term
Malvasia Candida historically the most important
- MC very susceptible to powdery mildew - yield –> only small plantings
Malvasia de São Jorge most planted
- Relatively high yields
- Susceptible to botrytis
Describe Terrantez and which wines it is used to make.
- Limited planting
- Susceptible to powdery mildew, botrytis
- Picked early to avoid the above, when it reaches 9% potential ABV
How are vineyards planted, trained and trellised?
Planted on terraces - steep slopes
Trained and trellised on pergola –> air flow –> fungal disease in humid climate
- -> other crops can be grown on land underneath
- -> some vineyards use cordon-trained, VSP-trellised
Which diseases are prevalent and why?
Fungal diseases - downy mildew, botrytis, Phomopsis
Humid and warm climate
Describe how and where irrigation is used
Rainwater collected in centre of island and channelled to the drier south
What are the typical yields and why?
150 hL/ha - high due to fertile soil and irrigation
When is harvest? How is it carried out? What is the min potential alcohol?
Set by IVBAM - end of August / start of September
By hand due to topography
Min 9% ABV, an average of no more than 11% ABV
Describe the typical winemaking process.
- Grape sorting –> weight, health, potential alcohol, rep from IVBAM present
- Destemmed and crushed
- Skin contact: depends on producer and style
- Fermentation: stainless steel with ambient yeast
- Fortification
- -> timing depending on desired sweetness
- -> 96% ABV grape spirit –> neutral
- -> May be purchased on open market but quality checked by IVBAM
- -> fortified to 17-18% ABV
- Fined - usually with either bentonite, gelatine, albumin
- Filtered - usually with diatomaceous earth
- Tasting: to determine quality and choose route for maturation
What styles are more likely to see skin-contact before and during fermentation?
Medium sweet + sweet styles
Tinta Negra
Describe the Estufagem maturation process.
- Wine heated in temp controlled SS vessels - estufas
- Heated to 40-50c using heating coil or water jacket for min of 3 months
- IVBAM seal vessels and break seal at end of maturation
- Some ullage usually allowed to allow oxidation
- Cool, filtered, rested for 6-12 months
Describe the style of wine produced by the Estufagem process and the min period before the wine may be sold.
Baked or stewed, relatively fast and wine isn’t as complex as canteiro process but quality has improved significantly
Mainly used for 3 and 5 year old Tinta Negra wine
May not be sold until 31st of October in two years after harvest
Describe the Canteiro maturation process.
- Old oak vessels in warm environment e.g. loft or warehouse heated by sun
- Temp between 25-40c
- 400-700L with some ullage –> oxidation
- Young wines in warmer conditions then moved to cool area when older
- Evap despite high humidity due to temps –> slow increase in ABV to 19-20%
- -> concentration of sugar, acid, aromas
- -> higher VA
- -> barrels topped up to managed oxidation
- Longer, resource-heavy process
What is min period before Canteiro wine may be sold?
Three years from the 1st of Jan following harvest
Describe the IVBAM regulated process of additional ageing.
May be aged beyond minimum in SS, large wood vessels or demi-johns –> oxidation
5 years extra ageing = EU subsidy, IVBAM seals and unseals vessel
Producers may check and adjust wine with IVBAM supervision
Can apply for an additional extension to subsidy in five-year increments
Describe the impact of the maturation process on Madeira.
Colour goes brown gradually
Primary –> tertiary dried fruit
Warm conditions –> speed oxidation –> caramelisation of sugar
Range of flavour, dependent on style, age and quality –> apricot, raisin, caramel, chocolate, nuts, smoky
Describe the role of blending.
Vintage, vineyard sites and barrels blended
Consistency - minimise vintage and barrel variation
Balance - balance structure via different vineyards and ages
Complexity - wines of different ages or maturation techniques
What adjustments may be made before bottling?
- Fining and filtration - carbon fining can strip colour
- Caramel used to add colour for inexpensive and mid-priced wines
- RCGM added for sweetness or blending with drier wine to reduce
Which terms are used to describe sweetness levels?
- extra dry
- dry (some sweetness)
- medium dry
- medium sweet (or medium rich)
- sweet (or rich)
Overlap so producers may used different terms for same level of RS
Describe the sweetness associated with varietal labelling of the following:
- Sercial
- Verdelho
- Terrantez
- Boal
- Malvasia
- Tinta Negra
Sercial - dry or extra dry Verdelo - med dry Terrantez - med dry / med sweet Boal - med sweet Malvasia - sweet Tinta Negra - any level
Describe a varietally labelled Sercial
Extra dry or dry
Lightest colour
Lightest body
Citrus peel and nuts
Describe a varietally labelled Verdelho
Medium dry
Darker colour than Sercial
More body and texture than Sercial
Candied fruit
Describe a varietally labelled Boal
Med sweet
Darker in colour than Verdelho
Fuller bodied than Verdelho
Caramel, chocolate, candied nuts
Describe a varietally labelled Malvasia
AKA Malmsey Sweet Brown Full-body Raisins and caramel
Describe a varietally labelled Terrantez
Medium dry / med sweet
Delicate despite sweetness
Citrus peel, caramel, floral
Describe a varietally labelled Tinta Negra
Any sweetness
Does Maderia require a sweetness level and bottling date on the label?
Sweetness - not for varietally labelled wines
Bottling date - yes since 2015
What does an age indication indicate?
5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50 and “more than 50 years old”
Style - not average or min age
Verified by tasting panel
Describe the rough differences in style and quality for different age indications
Quality and price tend to increase with age indication
Five y/o = mainly Tinta Negra, most aged in estufagem, good-very good, mid-priced
10 y/o and older = usually with white varieties (some producers may use Tinta Negra), aged in canteiro, increasingly complex and concentrated with time and higher levels of acid
20 y/o and older = outstanding and premium / super-premium
Describe a standard blend.
Doesn’t qualify for age indication
- 2-3 y/o when sold
- categorised as corrente
Labelled with brand of producer e.g. Blandy’s Duke of Clarence or style description e.g. Henriques & Henriques’ Full Rich Madeira
Describe Rainwater
Light style - ABV, body, concentration
Med dry
Around 18%
Max age indication of 10 y/o
Describe Frasqueira (Garrafeira)
- Vintage Madeira aged in wood for min 20 years
- Prescribed varieties, named on label
- Vintage and bottling date on label
- Quality assessed by tasting panel
- Complex with lots of tertiary flavour - sweetness balance with acid
Describe Colheita
- Vintage Madeira aged in wood for min 5 years
- Blend or single variety, does not need to be stated
- New category: popular due to lower ageing requirement
Describe the structure of production
Grapes –> fragmented –> 1000 growers, average holding of 0.3ha
Winemaking + maturation –> consolidated –> eight producers
- Justino’s, Madeira Wine Company and Henriques & Henriques are three largest
- Only two own any vineyards and these represent tiny % of production
- Producers used agents to source grapes and coordinate harvest
Outline the role for the IVBAM (Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira)
- Sets harvest dates
- Monitors grape quality - present at reception
- Seal and unseal vats during ageing process
- Tasting panel and lab checks for age indication and vintages
- Provide technical support and advice
- Sets regulations for production and labelling
Describe sales trends for Madeira
- 3.2 million litres in 2019 (roughly 4.2m 705ml bottles)
- Stable over past few decades
- Most sales from corrente made with TN
- 5-10 y/o are most widely sold age category
- Colheita and Fraquiera more common than older age-indicated e.g. 20- and 5- year old
Gradual increase in sales value driven by Colheita and Fraquiera
Where is Madiera sold?
France, Madeira (tourism), Germany, Japan
- France and Ger for inexpensive Madeira
- Japan for premium and super-premium
Describe Madeira used for cooking
- Big vols (20% of sales)
- Heated in estufagem and released after few months
- May have salt and pepper added
