3.2- Sources of energy at the coast- systems and processes Flashcards
The energy to drive the coastal system is provided by
Waves, wind, tides and currents
Describe wind
Wind is the movement of air from one place to another. Air moves from areas of high atmospheric pressure to areas of low atmospheric pressure- this movement is known as wind. The greater the pressure gradient between 2 places, the stronger the wind
Variations in atmospheric pressure primarily reflect differences in surface heating by the
Sun
Wind is a vital input into the coastal system as it is a primary source of energy for other processes, but is also an important agent of
Erosion and transportation
What are the features of wind as an input into the coastal system
- fetch
- wind is an agent of erosion
- wind is an important agent of moving sediment
Explain how spatial variations in energy result from variations in the strength and duration of the wind
Where wind speeds are persistently high and uninterrupted, wave energy is likely to be higher. Although local weather patterns may influence short-term changes in wind speed and direction, most coastlines will have a prevailing wind direction. That is, the wind will generally reach the coast from one direction. This is important as it is one factor that controls the direction that waves approach the coastline and also the direction of the transport of material in the coastal zone.
Explain fetch
Refers to the distance of open water over which a wind blows interrupted by major land obstacles. The length of the fetch helps to determine the magnitude and energy of the waves reaching the coast. The longer the fetch, the more powerful the waves
In the U.K. The prevailing (most usual) direction is from the ____-____. Before reaching our coast, the winds have blown over the broad expanse of the Atlantic Ocean- this means that the wind has blown over 3000 miles of open water
South-West
Explain how wind plays a vital role in wave formation
Waves are created by the transfer of energy from the wind blowing over the sea surface, referred to as the frictional drag of the wind.
The energy acquired by waves depends upon the strength of
The wind, the length of time it is blowing and the fetch
Wind is also an agent of erosion as
It can pick up and remove sediment e.g. sand from the coast and then use it to erode features- the most common type of wind erosion is abrasion
Wind is an important agent of moving sediment along the coast or further inland and beyond the shoreline as
It can pick up and transport material
How are waves formed?
As air moves across the water, frictional drag disturbs the surface and forms ripples or waves. In the open sea there is little horizontal movement of water. Instead, there is an orbital motion of the water particles
What are key wave characteristics?
- wave height
- wavelength or amplitude
- wave frequency or wave period
What is wave height?
Height difference between a wave crest and the neighbouring trough
What is wavelength?
Difference between successive crests
What is wave frequency?
The time between one crest and the following crest passing a fixed point
Why do waves break?
- as waves approach shallow water, the circular orbit of the water particles changes to an elliptical shape
- the wavelength and the velocity both decrease and the wave height increases due to friction with the seabed also increasing causing water to break up from behind and rise to a point where it starts to topple over (break)
- the water rushes up the beach as swash and flows back as backwash
Once waves have been created by the wind they are the main agent that shapes the
Coastline. Waves breaking at the coast can build up or remove materials depending on their characteristics
What are constructive waves?
Waves with a low wave height, but with a long wavelength and low frequency of around 6-8/min. Their swash tends to be more powerful than their backwash and as a consequence, beach material is built up
What are destructive waves?
Waves with a high wave height with a steep form and high frequency (10-14/min). Their swash is gradually stronger than their backwash, so more sediment is removed than is added.
Explain the characteristics of constructive waves
- tend to have low wave height but with a long wavelength often up to 100m
- low frequency around 6-8/min
- add to beach deposition as their swash pushes more materials from offshore up the beach than backwash removes.
- material is slowly, but constantly moved up the beach leading to the formation of ridges (berms)
- as the backwash is reduced, the following swash is less impeded in its movement up the beach
Explain the characteristics of destructive waves
- have high wave height with a steep form and high frequency around 10-14/min
- powerful backwash as when they approach the beach they rapidly steepen and when breaking they plunge down- also inhibits the swash from the next wave
- very little material is moved up the beach, leaving the backwash to pull material back down the beach
- net effect is removal of beach material along the shoreline
- commonly associated with steeper beach profile
- the force of each wave may project some shingle well towards the rear of the beach where it forms a large ridge known as the storm beach
Give an example of negative feedback regarding beaches and waves
Where constructive waves operate to build up a beach, eventually the beach profile steepens which encourages destructive waves (plunging rather than surging) which then removes material from the beach and deposit it offshore. This in turn can result in the beach profile becoming less steep again, encouraging constructive rather than destructive waves to form. All things being equal, this will continue until a state of dynamic equilibrium is reached
Describe wave refraction
When waves approach a coastline that it indented they are refracted and become increasingly parallel to the coastline.
Describe effect of wave refraction on a headland
- Waves tend to ‘bend’ and have a higher frequency, wave height and steepness, which gives them greater energy to erode. This is because the waves approaching the headland meet shallower water first, while the part of the wave approaching the bay is still in deeper water. Friction with the sea floor slows the headland-approaching waves and causes their frequency to increase. In bays, the reverse occurs and the waves spread out and become less frequent which leads to a reduction in wave energy and produces a more constructive impact
- the overall effect of wave refraction is the wave energy becomes concentrated on the headland. It accounts for the presence of erosive features at headlands (cliffs and stacks) and deposition features in the bays (beaches). In theory, continued erosion of the headland and deposition in the bays would result in a state of equilibrium where the shape of the coastline would remain static due to balance between the potential erodibility of the rocks and the effect of wave refraction. (In reality, conditions rarely remain stable enough for long enough for this to happen)
The term currents refers to
The permanent or seasonal movement of surface water in the seas and oceans.
What are the 3 types of currents?
Longshore currents, rip currents and upwelling
Describe longshore currents
Occur as most waves do not hit the coastline ‘head on’ but approach at an angle to the shoreline. This generates a flow of water (current) running parallel to the shoreline which transports sediment parallel to the shoreline
Describe rip currents
Rip currents are strong localised underwater currents that occur on some beaches and move water away from the shoreline. They develop when a series of plunging waves cause a temporary build-up of water at the top of the beach, met with resistance from the breaking waves. The fast-flowing offshore surge of water can be hazardous to swimmers.
Describe upwelling
The movement of cold water from deep in the ocean towards the surface. The more dense cold water replaces the warmer surface water and creates nutrient rich cold ocean currents
What are tides?
Periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea- they are caused by the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon,although the moon has the greatest influence as it it nearer.
How does the moon affect tides?
The moon pulls water towards it, creating a high tide, and there is a compensatory bulge on the opposite side of the Earth. In areas of the world between the two bulges, the tide is at its lowest
When are spring tides formed?
As the moon orbits the high tides follow it. Twice in a lunar month,when the moon sun and Earth are in a straight line the tide-raising force is the strongest. This produces the highest monthly tidal range or spring tide
When are neap tides formed?
Twice a month,the moon and the sun are perpendicular to each other in relation to the Earth. This alignment gives the lowest monthly tidal range or neap tides; at this time, the high and low tides are between 10 to 30% lower than average
The UK coastline experiences two high and low tides how often?
Each day
What is the tidal range?
The relative difference in height between high and low tides
Tidal range can be a significant factor in the development of a coastline as
Tidal ranges determine the upper and lower limits of erosion and deposition and the amount of time each day that the littoral zone is exposed and open to sub-aerial weathering
A tidal range generates relatively powerful tidal currents (important sources of energy), as tides rise and fall, which can be particularly strong in estuaries and narrow channels. Why are these currents important?
These currents are important in the transfer of sediment within the coastal system or beyond (as an output)
When do tidal/ storm surges occur?
When strong winds combine with high tides to produce much higher water levels than normal.
The processes outlined combine to create low energy and high energy coasts. Define a low energy coast
A coastline where wave energy is low and the rate of deposition often exceeds the rate of erosion of sediment
Define a high energy coast
A coastline where strong, steady prevailing winds create high energy waves and the rate of erosion is greater than the rate of deposition