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3 Raw Materials Flashcards

1
Q

Water

A

-solvent/diluent

  • contains inorganic ions (Ca2+, Mg2+ etc)
    req. EDTA (chelating agent)
  • contains microorganisms
    req. preservatives

-HAVE SURFACE TENSION
force/unit length acting perpendicular to plane of liquid surface

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2
Q

Wetting

A

ability to maintain contact with a solid surface/substrate

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3
Q

0°

A

Low surface tension

smaller contact θ

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4
Q

90°

A

High surface tension

BIG contact θ

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5
Q

Surfactant

A

surface active agent
reduces surface tension

consists of hydrophilic head and hydrophobic tail

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6
Q

FOS - Detergency

A

remove grease and dirt from a surface.

eg - SLS, SLES, CAPB

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7
Q

FOS - Foaming

A

generate foam
eg - SLS, SLES, alkyl sulfosuccinates

amt. of foam ≠ good cleansing ability

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8
Q

FOS - Emulsification

A

form stable mixture of oil and water (both are immiscible)

eg - sorbitan monolaurate, glyceryl monostearate

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9
Q

O/W

A

oil droplets dispersed in water

light feel

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10
Q

W/O

A

water droplets dispersed in oil

heavy texture

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11
Q

FOS - Solubilizing

A

allows oil to be miscible with water - forming semi-transparent soln.
eg - non-ionic surfactants such as Polysorbate-80, PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Airwick - consists of water, oil, non-ionic surfactant, ethanol, fragrance,

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12
Q

FOS - Wetting & Dispersing agent

A

wet&disperse powder pigments to form stable dispersion!!

eg - glyceryl monostearate (GMS), butyl stearate (wettin)

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13
Q

FOS - Conditioning

A

leaves surface feeling smooth and moisturized.
esp. for cationic surfactant (+ve) - interaction with (-ve) charge on skin/hair

eg - BHTC

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14
Q

FOS - Synergistic Effects

A
  1. foam booster & surfactant thickener for anionic (-ve) surfactant
    eg - CDEA, CMEA, alkanolamides
  2. improve mildness
    eg - sulfosuccinates, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate
  3. improve thickness as a co-emulsifier
    eg - cetyl alcohol
    ** DOES NOT ACT AS AN EMULSIFIER. IT WORKS AS A CO-EMULSIFIER WHEN PAIRED WITH SURFACTANT
    **when used with emulsifier, it improves stability of emulsifier.
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15
Q

CAPB (cocamidopropyl betaine)

A 
Alkaline condition (NaOH)
- good foaming and cleansing

Acidic condition (H+)
- conditioning
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16
Q

Anionic surfactant (-ve)

A

INCOMPATIBLE with cationic surfactant (+ve)

^ forms ppt.

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17
Q

Non-ionic surfactant (uncharged)

A

COMPATIBILE w/ OTHER SURFACTANTs

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18
Q

Emollient (Occlusive) - moisturizing

A

form barriers to prevent TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss)

it increases the water content of skin.

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19
Q

Nature of ingredients

A

Polar and non-polar in nature
Very substantive (stay on skin)
Usually oil

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20
Q

Type of ingredients

A
  1. Oil
  2. Fat
  3. Waxes/gelatinizing agent
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21
Q
  1. Oil
A

natural oil - triglycerides (GTCC - Capric caprylic triglyceride)
mineral oil - paraffin oil
synthetic esters - isopropyl myristate

*contains unsaturated C=C - rancidity - antioxidant to prevent oxidation

22
Q
  1. Fat
A

lanolin, shea butter, petroleum jelly

forms effective barrier against moisture loss - HOWEVER its greasy, sticky and hard to remove

23
Q
  1. Waxes/gelatinizing agent
A

beeswax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax

24
Q

Humectant (Hydration)

A

Increase water content of skin by drawing water from surrounding.

25
Nature of ingredients
Polar Hygroscopic Not substantive
26
Types of ingredients
``` glycerine sorbitol propylene glycol sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) sodium hyaluronate ```
27
Thickener (rheology modifier) - increase viscosity
Natural - xanthan gum Modified natural - cellulose, guar Synthetic - carbomers, acrylate, liquid dispersion polymers (LDP) Inorganic - silica Electrolytes (NaCl) - thickens surfactant Surfactants (CAPB) - synergistic effect , thickens surfactant
28
Active ingredients
claim purpose
29
eg of actives
botanical extracts salicylic acid peptide
30
Preservative
prevent spoilage due to microbial growth and oxidation of fats/oil
31
ToP: Anti-microbial agents
benzoic acid benzyl alcohol parabens DMDM hydantoin
32
ToP: Antioxidants
phenolic type - butylated hydroxy toluene (BHT) quinone - tocopherols amine - ethanolamine, lecithin organic acids - ascorbic,citric,oxalic acid inorganic acids - sodium sulfite, metasulfite
33
Fragrances
impart fragrance
34
Exfoliating
Physical and Chemical exfoliants
35
Things to consider for physical exfoliants
1. particle size 2. lvl. of exfoliation, particle abrasiveness 3. sensitivity to oxidation and microbial issues
36
ToPE: Synthetic
microbeads jojoba beads - $$$ and versatile polylactic acid (PLA) powder - white powder
37
ToPE: Natural
grains (rice brans, oats) fibres (loofah) - low risk of oxidation & susceptible to microbial attacks nutshell (walnuts, argan) -stable to oxidation. seeds, kernels (apricot) - instable to oxidation susceptible to microbial attack soft mineral (sodium bicarbonate - powder) hard mineral (diamond, pumice) salt - resistant to microbial sugar
38
Colorant
Dyes and Pigments
39
Dyes
organic soluble in media (non-polar OR polar) transparent when dissolved in media
40
Pigments
inorganic and organic insoluble in media (req. wetting&dispersing agent) opaque when dispersed
41
Organic pigments (SYNTHETIC)
lake pigment toner true pigment
42
lake pigment
affected by extreme pH bleeds POOR LIGHT RESISTANCE eg. F&DC Aluminum
43
toner
better heat, light, pH resistance extreme pH -> shade change eg. D&C Barium
44
true pigment
better stability than the above 2 stable to heat eg. D&C Red
45
Inorganic pigments (NATURAL)
iron oxide titanium oxide chromium dioxide ultramarine * *high lvls of heavy metals * reaction at extreme pH
46
Pearlescent agent
to give products a pearly appearance eg. Ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS) , Ethylene glycol distearate (EGDSo
47
Chelating agent
to prevent formation and deposition of Ca2+, Mg2+ ions. clarify formulation prevents ingredients from binding to any trace elements for product stability eg. EDTA
48
P - Covering powder
mask blemish reduce shine eg. kaolin, ZnO, TiO2
49
P - Slip
easy spreadability, transparency and smooth feeling eg. talc (magnesium stearate)
50
P - Adhesiveness
cling to powder formulation eg. zinc, magnesium stearate
51
P - Absorbency
absorb sebum eg. kaolin, starch, calcium and magnesium carbonate
52
P - Bloom
gives velvety finish to skin eg. chalk, rice starch, powdered silk

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