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ccrm > 3 Raw Materials > Flashcards

3 Raw Materials Flashcards

1
Q

Water

A

-solvent/diluent

  • contains inorganic ions (Ca2+, Mg2+ etc)
    req. EDTA (chelating agent)
  • contains microorganisms
    req. preservatives

-HAVE SURFACE TENSION
force/unit length acting perpendicular to plane of liquid surface

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2
Q

Wetting

A

ability to maintain contact with a solid surface/substrate

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3
Q

0°

A

Low surface tension

smaller contact θ

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4
Q

90°

A

High surface tension

BIG contact θ

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5
Q

Surfactant

A

surface active agent
reduces surface tension

consists of hydrophilic head and hydrophobic tail

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6
Q

FOS - Detergency

A

remove grease and dirt from a surface.

eg - SLS, SLES, CAPB

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7
Q

FOS - Foaming

A

generate foam
eg - SLS, SLES, alkyl sulfosuccinates

amt. of foam ≠ good cleansing ability

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8
Q

FOS - Emulsification

A

form stable mixture of oil and water (both are immiscible)

eg - sorbitan monolaurate, glyceryl monostearate

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9
Q

O/W

A

oil droplets dispersed in water

light feel

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10
Q

W/O

A

water droplets dispersed in oil

heavy texture

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11
Q

FOS - Solubilizing

A

allows oil to be miscible with water - forming semi-transparent soln.
eg - non-ionic surfactants such as Polysorbate-80, PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Airwick - consists of water, oil, non-ionic surfactant, ethanol, fragrance,

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12
Q

FOS - Wetting & Dispersing agent

A

wet&disperse powder pigments to form stable dispersion!!

eg - glyceryl monostearate (GMS), butyl stearate (wettin)

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13
Q

FOS - Conditioning

A

leaves surface feeling smooth and moisturized.
esp. for cationic surfactant (+ve) - interaction with (-ve) charge on skin/hair

eg - BHTC

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14
Q

FOS - Synergistic Effects

A
  1. foam booster & surfactant thickener for anionic (-ve) surfactant
    eg - CDEA, CMEA, alkanolamides
  2. improve mildness
    eg - sulfosuccinates, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate
  3. improve thickness as a co-emulsifier
    eg - cetyl alcohol
    ** DOES NOT ACT AS AN EMULSIFIER. IT WORKS AS A CO-EMULSIFIER WHEN PAIRED WITH SURFACTANT
    **when used with emulsifier, it improves stability of emulsifier.
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15
Q

CAPB (cocamidopropyl betaine)

A 
Alkaline condition (NaOH)
- good foaming and cleansing
Acidic condition (H+)
- conditioning
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16
Q

Anionic surfactant (-ve)

A

INCOMPATIBLE with cationic surfactant (+ve)

^ forms ppt.

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17
Q

Non-ionic surfactant (uncharged)

A

COMPATIBILE w/ OTHER SURFACTANTs

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18
Q

Emollient (Occlusive) - moisturizing

A

form barriers to prevent TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss)

it increases the water content of skin.

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19
Q

Nature of ingredients

A

Polar and non-polar in nature
Very substantive (stay on skin)
Usually oil

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20
Q

Type of ingredients

A
  1. Oil
  2. Fat
  3. Waxes/gelatinizing agent
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21
Q
  1. Oil
A

natural oil - triglycerides (GTCC - Capric caprylic triglyceride)
mineral oil - paraffin oil
synthetic esters - isopropyl myristate

*contains unsaturated C=C - rancidity - antioxidant to prevent oxidation

22
Q
  1. Fat
A

lanolin, shea butter, petroleum jelly

forms effective barrier against moisture loss - HOWEVER its greasy, sticky and hard to remove

23
Q
  1. Waxes/gelatinizing agent
A

beeswax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax

24
Q

Humectant (Hydration)

A

Increase water content of skin by drawing water from surrounding.

25
Q

Nature of ingredients

A

Polar
Hygroscopic
Not substantive

26
Q

Types of ingredients

A 
glycerine
sorbitol
propylene glycol
sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA)
sodium hyaluronate
27
Q

Thickener (rheology modifier) - increase viscosity

A

Natural - xanthan gum
Modified natural - cellulose, guar
Synthetic - carbomers, acrylate, liquid dispersion polymers (LDP)
Inorganic - silica
Electrolytes (NaCl) - thickens surfactant
Surfactants (CAPB) - synergistic effect , thickens surfactant

28
Q

Active ingredients

A

claim purpose

29
Q

eg of actives

A

botanical extracts
salicylic acid
peptide

30
Q

Preservative

A

prevent spoilage due to microbial growth and oxidation of fats/oil

31
Q

ToP: Anti-microbial agents

A

benzoic acid
benzyl alcohol
parabens
DMDM hydantoin

32
Q

ToP: Antioxidants

A

phenolic type - butylated hydroxy toluene (BHT)
quinone - tocopherols
amine - ethanolamine, lecithin
organic acids - ascorbic,citric,oxalic acid
inorganic acids - sodium sulfite, metasulfite

33
Q

Fragrances

A

impart fragrance

34
Q

Exfoliating

A

Physical and Chemical exfoliants

35
Q

Things to consider for physical exfoliants

A
  1. particle size
  2. lvl. of exfoliation, particle abrasiveness
  3. sensitivity to oxidation and microbial issues
36
Q

ToPE: Synthetic

A

microbeads
jojoba beads - $$$ and versatile
polylactic acid (PLA) powder - white powder

37
Q

ToPE: Natural

A

grains (rice brans, oats)
fibres (loofah) - low risk of oxidation & susceptible to microbial attacks

nutshell (walnuts, argan) -stable to oxidation.
seeds, kernels (apricot) - instable to oxidation
susceptible to microbial attack

soft mineral (sodium bicarbonate - powder)
hard mineral (diamond, pumice)
salt - resistant to microbial
sugar

38
Q

Colorant

A

Dyes and Pigments

39
Q

Dyes

A

organic
soluble in media (non-polar OR polar)
transparent when dissolved in media

40
Q

Pigments

A

inorganic and organic
insoluble in media (req. wetting&dispersing agent)
opaque when dispersed

41
Q

Organic pigments (SYNTHETIC)

A

lake pigment
toner
true pigment

42
Q

lake pigment

A

affected by extreme pH
bleeds
POOR LIGHT RESISTANCE

eg. F&DC Aluminum

43
Q

toner

A

better heat, light, pH resistance
extreme pH -> shade change

eg. D&C Barium

44
Q

true pigment

A

better stability than the above 2
stable to heat

eg. D&C Red

45
Q

Inorganic pigments (NATURAL)

A

iron oxide
titanium oxide
chromium dioxide
ultramarine

  • *high lvls of heavy metals
  • reaction at extreme pH
46
Q

Pearlescent agent

A

to give products a pearly appearance

eg. Ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS) , Ethylene glycol distearate (EGDSo

47
Q

Chelating agent

A

to prevent formation and deposition of Ca2+, Mg2+ ions.
clarify formulation
prevents ingredients from binding to any trace elements
for product stability

eg. EDTA

48
Q

P - Covering powder

A

mask blemish
reduce shine

eg. kaolin, ZnO, TiO2

49
Q

P - Slip

A

easy spreadability, transparency and smooth feeling

eg. talc (magnesium stearate)

50
Q

P - Adhesiveness

A

cling to powder formulation

eg. zinc, magnesium stearate

51
Q

P - Absorbency

A

absorb sebum

eg. kaolin, starch, calcium and magnesium carbonate

52
Q

P - Bloom

A

gives velvety finish to skin

eg. chalk, rice starch, powdered silk

ccrm (3 decks)

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