3 Coastal Landforms Flashcards
Explain how and why the focus of erosion changes once headlands and bays form
Headlands become erosive environment as wave refraction concentrates wave energy on them
Caves, arches, stacks and stumps as headland slowly retreats
Sheltered bays, refraction causes energy dissipation and deposition occurs in the low-energy environment, creating beaches
What factors cause steep cliff profiles?
Resistant rocks
Horizontal strata
Basal erosion
Rockfall dominant mass movement
What factors cause shallower cliff profiles?
Less resistant rocks
Seaward-dipping strata
Sub-aerial processes cause rapid retreat of upper cliff
Sliding, slumping, mudflows
Describe geos
Very narrow inlet incised into cliffs or rocky headlands
Form when a resistant rock has a major line of weakness that is exploited by marine erosion –> hydraulic action forcing air into joints and weakening the rock strata
Erosion cuts back to create the geo, leaves the less jointed rock either side largely untouched
Sometimes initially form as tunnel-like caves at right angles to cliff line, get enlarged and roof collapse
Describe blowholes
A hole in the top of a cliff or headland, connected to the sea via a vertical and a horizontal shaft, through which sea spray may emerge in high energy conditions
In storm
How do blowholes form?
- When a resistant rock mass contains major lines of weakness (e.g. joints, bedding planes and faults)
- Marine erosion at the cliff base can create a deep cave under the cliff, and erosion by sea spray can then expand a vertical joint at the back of the cave to create a vertical shaft
-Sometimes, the roof of the blowhole’s horizontally shaft may collapse and create a geo
Define a beach
Accumulation of material deposited between the lowest tide and the highest storm waves
Name 3 sources of beach material and the proportion of beach material that comes from each
Cliff erosion 5%
Offshore 5%, typically during periods of sea level rise
Rivers 90% fluvial erosion, weathering and mass movement of valley sides, and transported to the coast as suspended or bedload
Why do sand beaches have gentler slopes?
-Sand particles fine, compact when wet
-LIttle percolation of backwash in sand
-Strong backwash –> carries material back down and reduces gradient
-Material accumulates in ridges separated by troughs (runnels). May be breached by channels draining water from the beach
Why do shingle beaches have steeper gradients?
-Coarse particles have large pores between
-High percolation rates of water on the beach surface
-Weak backwash relative to swash
-Material can be transported up the beach, but less material can be transported down
-Materials accumulates on upper beach, increasing gradient
Define swash aligned beach
-Straight
-Waves approach perpendicular so little movement of material by LSD
-Closed systems –> no LSD means no movement of sediment to adjacent coastal areas
Define drift aligned beach
Waves approach at a side angle, allowing movement of sediment by LSD in an open system
Define storm beach
Ridge of coarse materials above normal high water mark, thrown up by high energy storm waves
Define berm
-series of small ridges, formed by deposition at the top of the swash at HWM
Define cusp
-Small, semi-circular depressions, often formed at the boundary of lower and upper beach
The sides of the cusp channel swash centrally, and a strong central backwash erodes material, further emphasising the semi-circular shape
Define runnels
Troughs between the ridges- may retain shallow pool of water at LWM
Define ridges
Bars of sand in the lower beach, running parallel to the shore, exposed at low tide
Formed by destructive waves transporting material from the upper beach offshore
May be breached by currents
How does a cycle of destructive and constructive waves create negative feedback loops for beach profile equilibrium?
Destructive:
Remove sediment offshore and create flatter beach profiles
Results in shallower water, more friction and a reduction in wave energy
Constructive:
Transfer sediment in the opposite direction to form steeper profiles
Produces deeper water, less friction and an increase in wave energy
Why can beaches be described as dynamic?
Profiles evolve over time, single storm event to seasonal changes
Beach systems try to reach a stable, equilibrium form with a balance between erosion and deposition
Define ripples
Tiny ridges and troughs in the lower beach, exposed at LWM and formed by orbital motion of waves