1b wind and waves

Question 1

three aspects of wind that influence size of resulting wave

Answer 1

fetch
speed
duration

Question 2

wavelength formula

Answer 2

λ=CT
C is wave velocity
T is time (seconds)

Question 3

wave power formula

Answer 3

P=H^2 * T
T is time
H is wave height

Question 4

how waves are initially formed

Answer 4

transfer of energy from atmosphere to sea because of friction between the two bodies

Question 5

how waves are formed and develop

Answer 5

transfer of energy from atmosphere to sea because of friction between the two bodies
as waves develop the coefficient of friction increases (so does SA)
rate of energy transfer therefore increase the sea state change quickly
positive feedback
the moving air applies force to waves causing acceleration

Question 6

Bernoulli effect

Answer 6

water speeds up if the pressure decreases and water slows down if the pressure increases.
disparity in pressure between peak and trough of waves exacerbates the shape causing larger waves
positive feedback

Question 7

two reasons waves never reach maximum power
(equilibrium is established)

Answer 7

friction on seabed slows down waves as they reach shore, reducing wave energy
overlying wave exerts presser on the waters orbit and shrinks it (reducing its energy)
also water orbits are further from source (wind)

Question 8

clapotis wave

Answer 8

wave reflects of a vertical wall, hits approaching wave
wave reaches 2x its amplitude

Question 9

cross wave

Answer 9

2 prevailing winds from perpendicular directions cause dangerous waves which cross at 90 degrees

Question 10

pororoca

Answer 10

tidal wave
against flow of amazon
up river
rare

Question 11

how waves break

Question 12

Spring tide

Answer 12

A tide just after new or full moon when there is the greatest difference between high and low tide

Question 13

Neap tide

Answer 13

A period of moderate tides, during new or full moons where sun and moon are at right angles from each other

Question 14

Orbital eccentricity

Answer 14

100 00 year cycle
Orbit becomes elliptical around the sun
Sea level fall, sea ice, low ocean temp

Question 15

Axial tilt

Answer 15

Change in angle between earth rotational axis every 40 000 years
Causes more extreme season: more solar radiation in summer if titled towards sun. Reverse in winter
Causes sea ice melt and thermal expansion , eustatic sea level rise

Question 16

Solar output

Answer 16

11 year cycle
Thermal expansion
Higher radiation, hotter

Question 17

Volcanic eruptions

Answer 17

Can be a yearly cycle
Ash blocks solar rays

Question 18

How fetch effects waves

Answer 18

Up to 1600 km fetch increases wave height
Increase speed
Increase KE
Circular motion of water particles

Question 19

How wind duration effects waves

Answer 19

Increases energy transfer
E.g. storms produce a variety of wave heights and length due to irregular wind duration
Increased friction with water and air, positive feedback due to pressure difference: Bernoulli Efffect