1.b. Coastal landscape systems are influenced by a range of physical factors Flashcards

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1
Q

What is the definition of spatial?

A

Spatial refers to the size of features.

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2
Q

What is the definition of temporal?

A

Temporal refers to the time span features have/ will have.

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3
Q

What is the definition of fetch?

A

Fetch is the area of ocean or lake surface over which the wind blows in an essentially constant direction, thus generating waves.

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4
Q

What is the definition of offshore winds?

A

Offshore winds are any type of wind that blows from a landmass towards or onto a body of water.

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5
Q

What is the definition of onshore winds?

A

Onshore winds are any type of wind that blows from a body of water towards or onto a landmass.

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6
Q

What is the definition of aeolian?

A

Aeolian refers to anything that arises from wind action.

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7
Q

What is the definition for waves?

A

A wave is a moving ridge on the surface of water.

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8
Q

What is wave anatomy?

A

Wave anatomy refers to the physical characteristics of a wave.

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9
Q

What is the definition of a breaking wave?

A

A breaking wave occurs when the water surface of a wave breaks on the coastline.

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10
Q

What is the definition of a spilling wave?

A

Spilling waves are steep waves that break onto gently sloping beaches; water spills gently forward as the wave breaks.

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11
Q

What is the definition of a plunging wave?

A

A plunging wave is a moderately steep wave that breaks onto steep beaches; the water plunges vertically downwards as the crest curls.

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12
Q

What is the definition of a surging wave?

A

A surging wave is a low-angle wave that breaks onto steep beaches; the wave slides forward and may not actually break.

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13
Q

What is a constructive wave?

A

Constructive waves are waves that have a short wave height and a long wavelength, low frequency 6-8 wpm, strong swash and weak backwash adds sediment to the shore.

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14
Q

What is a destructive wave?

A

Waves that have a large wave height and a short wavelength, high frequency 13-15 wpm, weak swash and strong backwash erodes the shore.

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15
Q

What is the definition for tides?

A

Tides refer to the rise and fall of sea levels.

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16
Q

What is the definition of a spring tide?

A

A spring tide is a tide just after a new or full moon, when there is the greatest difference between high and low water.

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17
Q

What is the definition of a neap tide?

A

A neap tide is a period of moderate tides when the sun and moon are at right angles to each other.

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18
Q

What is the definition of a tidal range?

A

A tidal range is the difference between high and low water.

19
Q

What is a micro tidal range?

A

A micro tidal range is a tidal range lower than 2 metres.

20
Q

What is a macro tidal range?

A

A macro tidal range is a tidal range higher than 4 metres.

21
Q

What is the definition of lithology?

A

Lithology refers to the description of the physical characteristics of rocks.

22
Q

What is a weak lithology?

A

A rock with weak lithology will easily erode due to weak bonds between particles. E.g. chalk.

23
Q

What is strong lithology?

A

A rock with strong lithology will not erode easily erode due to strong bonds between particles, there is little to no space between crystals. E.g. granite.

24
Q

What is carboniferous?

A

A carboniferous rock is a rock that is physically strong, due to bonds, but chemically weak as most are made from calcium carbonate so react will polluted sea water or acid rain. E.g. limestone.

25
Q

What is structure?

A

Structure refers to the physical characteristics of a form.

26
Q

What is a concordant coastline?

A

A concordant coastline is a coastline made up of one rock type, they are usually fairly straight as the rock erodes at an equal speed.

27
Q

What is a discordant coastline?

A

Discordant coastlines are coastlines made up of several rock types, they usually consist of headlands and bays as the rock has eroded the range of rocks away at different speeds.

28
Q

What is a nearshore current?

A

A nearshore current occurs when waves break at an angle to the beach, the momentum of the breaking wave generates onshore currents flowing in the direction of the breaking wave.

29
Q

What are offshore currents/ ocean currents?

A

Offshore or ocean currents are a prevailing nontidal current usually setting parallel to the shore.

30
Q

What are rip currents?

A

Rip currents are a strong flow of water running from a beach back to the open ocean.

31
Q

What are cusps?

A

Cusps are crescent-shaped indentations and depressions that form on beaches of mixed sand and shingle.

32
Q

What are the 5 physical factors present at a coastal landscape?

A

Waves, wind, tides, geology and ocean currents are all physical factors present in a coastal landscape.

33
Q

Many physical factors are…?

A

Many physical factors are interrelated.

34
Q

What will happen if onshore winds (generating waves) blow at an angle to the shore?

A

If onshore wind blow at an angle to the coast, longshore drift will occur.

35
Q

The higher the wind speed and the longer the fetch…?

A

The higher the wind speed and the longer the fetch, the larger the waves and the more energy they possess.

36
Q

How is wave energy generated?

A

Wave energy is generated by the frictional drag of winds moving across the ocean surface.

37
Q

Describe the energy transfers occurring during a breaking wave?

A

The wave possesses potential energy due to its position above the trough. This allows the transfer of kinetic energy.

38
Q

In what direction do waves move?

A

Waves move circularly, against water molecules.

39
Q

What is the formula for the amount of energy in a wave in deep water?

A

The amount of energy in a wave in deep water is approximated by the formula: P=H²T.

40
Q

What does each symbol equate to in the deep water wave equation?

A

In the deep water wave equation: P is the power in kilowatts per metre of wave front, H is the height in metres and T is the time interval between wave crests, known as wave periods.

41
Q

Wave height and wave energy are…?

A

Wave height and wave energy are non-linear.

42
Q

What is the highest surface part of the wave called?

A

The highest surface part of a wave is called the crest.

43
Q

What is the lowest surface part of the wave called?

A

The lowest surface part of the wave is called the trough.

44
Q

What is the wave height?

A

Wave height is the vertical difference between crest and trough.