1b) Coastal landscape systems are influenced by a range of physical factors Flashcards
- winds, including speed, direction, and frequency - waves, including wave formation, development and breaking - dates, including title Cycles and range - geology, including lithology and structure - global pattern of ocean currents
1
Q
What are waves?
A
The frictional drag of wind on water
Local wind’s waves are called sea waves
And distant storm’s waves are called swell waves
2
Q
What three factors does the energy (kinetic and potential) of waves depend on?
A
- Wind velocity
- Duration
- Fetch
3
Q
Why does SW of England experience the most destructive waves?
A
Larger stretch of open seas ( more fetch) and due to direction of prevailing winds.
4
Q
A
5
Q
Why do waves break?
A
- waves move into shallow water
- friction between deepest circling water molecules and seafloor increases
- bottom of wave slows down
- whereas the top of wave steepens as it moves at the same speed
- when bottom of wave slows down the waves and the wavelength decreases
- once the water depth < 1.3*s wave height the wave breaks
