1. Coastal Processes

Question 0

What is the Swash of a wave?

Answer 0

When a break breaks, water is washed up the bridge - this is called the swash.

Question 1

What is a Fetch?

Answer 1

The fetch is the distance the wind blows over the surface of the water (how far the wave has travelled).

Question 2

What is the Backwash of a wave?

Answer 2

After the water is washed up onto the beach (swash), the water runs back down - this is called the backwash.

Question 3

What is a Constructive Wave?

Answer 3

• Constructive waves are created in calm weather and are less powerful than destructive waves.
• They break on the shore and deposit material, building up beaches.
• They have a swash that is stronger than the backwash.
• They have a long wavelength, but are low in height.

Question 4

What is a Destructive Wave?

Answer 4

• Destructive waves are created in storm conditions.
• They are created from big, strong waves when the wind is powerful and has been blowing for a long time.
• They occur when wave energy is high and the wave has travelled over a long fetch.
• They tend to erode the coast.
• They have a stronger backwash than swash.
• They have a short wavelength and are high and steep.

Question 5

What is Longshore Drift?

Answer 5

Longshore drift is the transport of sand and pebbles along the coast.

The prevailing wind causes waves to approach the coast at an angle. The swash carries the sand and pebbles up the beach at the same angle. The backwash carries the material back down the beach at right angles causing a zig-motion along the coast.

This means the carried material gets deposited from west to east.