Coastal Systems AW Flashcards

Question

Define pressure gradient

Answer 1

How fast the pressure changes in different areas

Answer 2

The weight of the atmosphere on the ground

Answer 3

Add diagram

Answer 4

Strong swash and weak backwash so material is deposited on the beach, making it bigger and steeper In the summer, mostly Low wave height, long wavelength - long rolling waves.

Answer 5

High energy waves, tall in height. Weak swash and strong backwash, so material is transported down the beach. Mainly in the winter.

Answer 6

When waves are around a headland they tend to bend, as waves approaching a headland hit shallower waters sooner than the rest of the wave ( in the bay which is in deeper water) The wave by the headland in shallower water experiences friction with the sea floor - slowing. The edges of the wave move faster and the wave converges around the headland. In the bay the opposite happens and the edges of the wave are in shallower water nearest the headland and friction slows them (slower relative to wave in deeper bay). Thile wave diverges into the bay.

Answer 7

Where the waves hit the beach at 90°

Answer 8

Where the prevailing wind is at a significant angle to the beach so waves hit the beach at an angle and cause longshore drift up the beach

Answer 9

Where the coast is made up of bands of multiple types of rock perpendicular to the coast (of different densities leading to the formation of headlands and bays)

Answer 10

Beds of rock are parallel to the coast so the coastline has the same type of rock along the coast.

Answer 11

Tides are caused by the gravitational pull of the sun and moon. The moon has the greatest influence due to distance, oceans closest to the moon have an outward bulge, causing high tides ( low tides is the draining of water from areas)

Answer 12

The highest low tide and the lowest hight tide in a year. Caused when the sun and the moon are at right angles and interfere with each other.

Answer 13

Highest high tide and the lowest low tide Highest tide where the earth is between the moon and sun.

Answer 14

There's 6 hours between high tide and low tide. 4 tides per day, 2 high and 2 low tides.

Answer 15

The difference between high tide and low tide

Answer 16

When the tidal range is larger than 4 metres

Answer 17

When the tidal range is between 4 and 1.8 metres

Answer 18

When the tidal range is less that 1.8 metres

Answer 19

. Gravitational pull of sun and moon . Weather conditions . Ocean bed . Rivers and shape of coastline

Answer 20

Water in the ocean is different densities in different areas, causing currents as high density water moves to low density areas.

Answer 21

. Saltiness of water (from rocks with sodium dissolved . Temperature

Answer 22

Longshore currents are caused by prevailing winds hitting at a non 90° angle (A near shore current that is very localised and small scale)

Answer 23

Where water comes up to the surface. (A near shore current that is very localised and small scale)

Answer 24

Rip currents are strong, localised underwater currents that occur at some beaches. Formed when a series of plunging waves cause a temporary build up of water at the top of the beach, met with resistance of breaking waves the backwash is forced under the surface.

Answer 25

A large current that comes up from Mexico, the water is warm and less dense. Moves 4 billion cubic feet of water per second.

Answer 26

Created by the sinking and falling of ocean currents. It transfers heat and takes 1000 yes for water to move through the conveyor belt.

Answer 27

When meteorological conditions giving rise to strong winds can produce much higher water levels than those at high tide. Very low pressure systems (e.g. hurricanes) take the weight of the atmosphere off the ocean allowing every water molecule to take up more space, ocean rises.

Answer 28

The area between the highwater mark and landward limits of marine activity (changes only occured during storm activity)

Answer 29

Area between low water mark and high water mark. The most important place for marine processes.

Answer 30

The area between the point where waves don't have any affect on the land below and the low water mark. (Foreshore + inshore = Nearshore)

Answer 31

Area seaward from the high watermark to the area where waves begin to break. Including: . Swash zone . Surf zone . Breaker zone

Answer 32

Subsection of Nearshore zone. Area where turbulent layer of water washes up on the beach after the wave breaks.

Answer 33

Subsection of Nearshore zone. Area between the point where the waves breaks and where the waves moves up the beach as swash in the swash zone.

Answer 34

Subsection of Nearshore zone. Area where the waves begin to break when approaching the beach (usually water depth is 5-10 metres)

Answer 35

Area past the point where waves stop impacting the sea bed below, deposition of sediment is limited.

Answer 36

Sediment is moved around distinct areas/ cells, normally separated by a distinct feature e.g. a headland. There regarded as a closed system as no sediment is lost or gained (theoretically). They are very large and may have sub cells within them.

Answer 37

In theory the sediment is lost or gained but in reality small bits of sediment are easily transferred to different cells.

Answer 38

The fetch is the uninterrupted distance that wind blows over a body of water from one obstacle to another, in the same direction.

Answer 39

Work is done as wind blows over the water called fictional drag, the longer the fetch the bigger and more powerful the waves are (due to more energy being transferred).

Answer 40

Waves cause surface water movement and 5 - 10 metres down water doesn't really move

Answer 41

Waves are just energy passing through water in circular motions. The water stays in pretty much the same place as the wave moves. This motion causes air to get trapped making it less dense than the rest of the water so it stays on top.

Answer 42

At the shore the water gets shallower and the orbital motion is broken/ disrupted by the sea floor. The bottom of the wave slows due to friction forcing the crest higher, causing it to crash down. The wave breaks.

Answer 43

Scientists use datums as a normal and use it as a reference to see how much water levels rise and fall

Answer 44

They are driven by wind, tides, shape of land and temperature

Answer 45

Main components are speed and direction, put an object in the ocean and record how long it takes to get to a certain place

Answer 46

Air acoustic and pressure systems to record changes in water levels

Answer 47

Need knowledge of them to . Aid navigation . Keep people and the environment safe . Need to know the water levels for boats to pass under bridges

Answer 48

The zone between high and low tides, it's a harsh and unforgiving habitat.

Answer 49

. The spray zone . High intertidal zone . Mid intertidal zone . Low intertidal zone

Answer 50

Mostly land, rarely submerged in ocean (only very high tide or storms), wet from waves and wind blown spray Life like litchens and periwinkle snails

Answer 51

Out of water in long stretches but submerged during daily high tides. Life like crabs, seaweed, barnacles

Answer 52

Submerged other than low tide. Life like muscles, snails, sea urchins

Answer 53

Submerged and only exposed during lowest spring tides (twice a year) Life like crabs, urchins, kelp, sea stars

Answer 54

Physical: storms Human: swa walls, groynes, gabions, mining, people using the beach

Answer 55

During weathering rocks stay in situ (same place).

Answer 56

Hydraulic action Abrasion Attrition Solution (corrasion)

Answer 57

Marine processes Sub aerial process

Answer 58

Hydraulic action Abrasion Attrition Solution Wave quarrying Wave Cavitation

Answer 59

Wave quarrying - Breaking waves trap air, water compresses air into any gaps in the rock creating enormous pressure, weakening the cliff, chunks can be easily removed. Cavitation - waves vibrate the cliff and break off chunks.

Answer 60

The wearing or breaking down of rocks while they are in place

Answer 61

Weathering from nature and animals. E.g. from roots of a tree getting into cracks in rocks, widening them and breaking off chunks. Or a rabbit burrowing a hole.

Answer 62

Physical processes of weathering. Freeze thaw- water gets into cracks top freezes first creating a 'plug', the water below freezes, expanding and can't expand up, creates pressure on the crack widening it. Wetting and drying - porous rocks/clay. The rocks expand when wet and when dry they contract causing cracks to form Salt Crystalisation - salt crystals are deposited in cracks and they accumulate overtime applying pressure to the crack

Answer 63

Carbon dioxide dissolves in rain making it slightly acidic- can react with rocks like limestone - weathering them.

Answer 64

A very slow movement on a gentle slope when soil expands and contracts as it wets and dries. When it drys it contracts vertically and when in wets it expands at right angles.

Answer 65

Material falls down along the ground

Answer 66

Landfalls vertically

Answer 67

Saturated soil flowing down a slope

Answer 68

Heavy rain it absorbed by loose material that makes up the cliff (usually glacial till) . The cliff face becomes heavier and eventually it separates from the material behind. Lubricated by the rain. Falls in a rotational curved motion

Answer 69

. Geological structure (cracks, rock strata, bedding planes) . Presence of a beach (they absorb wave energy, protects cliffs from erosion) . Sub aerial processes ( weathering and mass movement weaken cliffs) . Waves and fetch (size and power of waves) . Rock type (physical strength) . Coastal management (can slow erosion)

Answer 70

Coastlines with different rocks perpendicular to the coast, hard and soft. Landforms like headland and bays.

Answer 71

One type of rock parallel to the coastline.

Answer 72

A wave-cut notch is created by erosional processes like hydraulic action and abrasion. The notch becomes larger and the cliff is unstable and collapses. Cliff retreats inland. Eroded material is transported away. Leaving a wave-cut platform. Processes repeat. (Wave cut platforms slow cliff erosion)

Answer 73

The prevailing wind cause waste to hit the beach at an angle. The wave carries sediment transporting it up the the beach, gravity pulls the water back down the beach at a right angle (backwash). This causes the Sediment to move up the beach in a saw tooth pattern.

Answer 74

The transportation and deposition of sediment via wind.

Answer 75

-Freeze thaw water gets to cracks in the rock. top layer freezes first as it's more exposed •the bottom layer of water then freezes and expands (ice is 9% bager time water as it traps air) and can't expand up because top ice blocks it in so expands widening the crack. the ice then thaws and the water doesn't fill the large cracks now. so more water fills. Process repeates -Salt Crystalisation. .Salt crystals are deposited in cracks, over time the Salt accumulates and applies pressure to the crack. -wetting and drying of rocks water absorption to (clay rich rocks or porous rocks. Cause them to expand then contract. When they dry, it causes cracks to form.

Answer 76

Creep- soil creep Flow- mudflow Slide- rock slide, rotational slumping Fall- rockfall

Answer 77

Rock type - bedding planes, competence of rocks (high/strong=slipping, low/weak=slumping), weathering weakening rocks. Slope angle- the steeper the more likely to fall. Water- adds weight, lubricant. Human contributions- building on a slope, removing vegetation (which intercepts water and binds soil).

Answer 78

Very slow continuous movement of individual soil particles down slope in the presence of water and weathering processes. Particles change size when they're freeze and thaw Its very slow over thousands of years solifluction is freezing and thawing and soil creep is wetting and drying

Answer 79

Is a form of mass movement where large quantities of fine material flow downhill, soil become saturated and excess water stays on the surface, it's very fluid and flows down

Answer 80

A form of mass movement on Cliffs made from softer rocks or deposited material, like glacial till, the slip is as a result of failure within the cliff when lubricated usually following rainfall It's a fast and short movement

Answer 81

Water running over the surface of land, it's presence aids mass movement.

Answer 82

A form of mass movement where individual rocks fall by themselves from the air very fast and short movements. It's dry.

Answer 83

A form of mass movement where soft material is on more resistant material and moves down in a rotational movement

Answer 84

During weathering the material stays in situ, but in mass movement it moves and is caused by Gravity.

Answer 85

Sandy beaches have a shallow gradient than stony. As sandy beaches can't support a stepping gradient Sandy beaches have less percolation (less water to seep into the sand so there is a strong backwash) Stony beaches have high percolation, so more water seeps into the beach, so a weaker backwash and a steeper beach.

Answer 86

Beach ridges built be constructive waves

Answer 87

When a ridge forms at the low watermark, the water can't flow over the bump so the water flows up the beach.

Answer 88

1.The prevailing wind hits the beach at an angle causing the swash to go up the beach as an angle carrying sediment and then down the beach perpendicular as backwash 2. this causes longshore drift carrying sediment up the coast then there's a sharp bend in the coastline and sediment is to deposited offshore 3. shallow water gives the beach support and the beach builds up and spit extends to the sea 4. due to prevailing wind the beach recurves parallel with the prevailing Wind called a hook

Answer 89

This is where the spit has multiple hooked ends and recurves. After each hook, there are changing conditions, which causes the spit to grow further out, and then the prevailing wind causes it to hook and recurve again. For example, increased wind strength, reduced water depths, Leeward of the spit, reduced river flow, and increased river load of sediment.

Answer 90

Semicircular shapes depressions which form when waves break directly onto the beach and the swash and backwash and strong

Answer 91

At high tide, water gets deeper (5 - 10m) where not much water movement occurs, and is a low energy environment, so sediment is dropped. This forms an offshore bar.

Answer 92

areas of the foreshore that are raised above the adjacent shore which dips into a runnel

Answer 93

A tombolo is formed when a spit connects the mainland coast to an island. A spit is a feature that is formed through deposition of material at coastlines. The process of longshore drift occurs and this moves material along the coastline. (A beach connecting and island to land)

Answer 94

A sand ridge that's above the surface of the sea and runs parallel to the shore across a lagoon. Connecting the two sides ( a spit that meets both sides)

Answer 95

When a barrier beach is completely separated from mainland

Answer 96

○ Dry, fine sand ○ Accommodation land ○ Wind - offshore constant strong wind ( so it can suspend and move or move it along the ground) ○obstacle, like seaweed or a stick (to trap sand and trigger the process?

Answer 97

1. Sand Supply & Transportation ○Sand is transported by the wind through saltation (bouncing), creep (rolling), and suspension (lifting). ○A steady wind supply and a large dry sediment source, such as a beach, are essential for dune formation. 2. Obstacle & Deposition ○When wind encounters an obstacle (e.g., driftwood, vegetation, or a rock), its velocity decreases, causing sand to be deposited. ○Over time, the accumulation of sand builds up into small mounds.

Answer 98

As more sand accumulates, dunes grow and shift inland due to continued deposition and wind transport. Vegetation, such as marram grass, stabilizes the dunes by trapping sand and reducing wind erosion and roots bind the dune together.

Answer 99

1. Embryo dunes – Small dunes forming near the high-tide mark. 2. Fore dunes – Slightly larger dunes stabilized by hardy pioneer plants like marram grass. 3. Yellow dunes – Larger dunes with more vegetation coverage. 4. Grey dunes – More mature dunes, covered with humus and shrubs. 5. Climax community – A stable environment with trees, such as pine or oak.

Answer 100

Embryo dunes – Small dunes forming near the high-tide mark.

Answer 101

Fore dunes – Slightly larger dunes stabilized by hardy pioneer plants like marram grass.

Answer 102

Yellow dunes – Larger dunes with more vegetation coverage.

Answer 103

Grey dunes – More mature dunes, covered with humus and shrubs

Answer 104

Wind strength and direction – A strong onshore wind moves more sand. Sediment supply – More sand availability promotes dune growth. Vegetation – Plants help stabilize dunes and prevent erosion.

Answer 105

Usually found in areas where tidal water flows slowly, e.g.sheltered bays, estuaries, rias, and along gently shelving coasts

Answer 106

A mixture of very fine silt from tidal waters and from Rivers is deposited, causing a buildup of mud layers called mud flats. mud flats are covered at high tide and exposed when it drops.

Answer 107

Mudflats, common in sheltered coastal areas like estuaries, form through the deposition of fine sediments (silt and clay) carried by tides and currents, which then become exposed at low tide. Mud flats develop in low-energy coastal environments where there's less wave action. The fine silt and clay particles that make up mudflats originate from rivers and the sea, carried by tides and currents. Due to the low energy area, deposition occurs The salt content in seawater can cause clay particles to clump together (a process called flocculation), further aiding in the deposition of sediments. Intertidal Zone: Mudflats are found in the intertidal zone, the area between high and low tide levels, where they are alternately covered and exposed by the tides. Once the mudflats are established, pioneer plants like cordgrass begin to colonize them, further trapping sediment and contributing to the build-up of the mudflat. Over time, the mudflats can develop into saltmarshes.

Answer 108

Saltmarshes form from mudflats as salt-tolerant plants (halophytes) begin to colonize the area. These plants stabilize the sediment with their roots, reducing erosion and allowing more sediment to accumulate. Over time, the build-up of organic matter from decaying plants enriches the soil, promoting further plant growth and turning the mudflat into a saltmarsh.

Answer 109

In areas that are well sheltered creeks, inlets, etuaries and behind spits and artificial sea defences, as this is a low energy area so tidal water flow slowly depositing fine sediment.

Answer 110

○ a spit ○ a bar ○ tombolo ○ offshore bar ○ deltas ○ levees

Answer 111

Form where there is a wave shadow behind a near shore island, behind the island is a low energy area, so deposition occurs. (Slowing longshore current as well) Over time, enough sediment deposits connecting mainland to island.

Answer 112

An offshore bar is a submerged or partially exposed ridge of sand that forms parallel to the coast due to wave action. Waves pick up and deposit sediment offshore, creating a ridge. Swash and backwash move sediment, and storms can enhance bar formation. Offshore bars help reduce wave energy and may evolve into barrier beaches or spits over time.

Answer 113

A beach is an accumulation of deposited sediment where land meets the sea.

Answer 114

A steep beach formed by large waves during storms, depositing coarse material at the high tide mark.

Answer 115

Sand has small particles that allow less percolation, leading to stronger backwash and more material being carried down the beach.

Answer 116

Shingle allows more percolation, reducing backwash strength and limiting sediment transport.

Answer 117

Berms are ridges of sediment formed by constructive waves marking successive lower tides.

Answer 118

Semi-circular depressions formed where swash and backwash meet directly.

Answer 119

Longshore drift moves sediment along the coast, and a change in coastline shape causes deposition, forming a spit.

Answer 120

A second, stronger wind or wave direction changes deposition patterns.

Answer 121

Rising sea levels, human activity, pollution, and climate change.

Answer 122

Occurs in sheltered, low-energy environments. Requires accumulation of fine sediments and organic material. Pioneer species (salt-tolerant plants) help stabilize sediment. Vegetation succession leads to marsh development.

Answer 123

A low-energy coastline or estuary is needed to allow sediment to settle. Fine sediments (such as silt and clay) are deposited due to slow water movement. 3. Pioneer Species Colonization: Salt-tolerant plants (e.g., Spartina) establish stabilizing the sediment. As plants grow, they trap more sediment, raising the marsh's height. Over time, more complex vegetation replaces pioneer species, leading to full marsh development.

Answer 124

Clay particles stick together and are deposited

Answer 125

○ sheltered coastline ○ low lying ○ submerged at high tide ○ composed of silt and clay

Answer 126

A global change in sea level caused by glacial amd interracial periods, during glacial periods more water is stored on land as ice so sea levels fall, during interracial periods sea levels rise due to ice melting and thermal expansion.

Answer 127

A submerged steep sided V-shaped valley formed by rise in sea levels. It's a funnel-shaped estuary that occurs at a river mouth and is formed by the submergence of the lower portion of the river valley

Answer 128

A glacier is formed during a glacial period, and as the glacier moves, it forms a U-shaped valley as it erodes the land. then a warming period (integracial period occurs) leading to glacier melting, causing eustatic sea level rise. This leads to flooding of glacial Valley, forming a fjord.

Answer 129

Localised relative change in sea level caused by the land moving up or down in relation to the sea. Caused by loading or unloading of ice. Isostatic rebound / recovery is greatest over Scotland because that's where most of the ice was the land of Scotland is rising approximately 4 to 20 mm per year or it's a land in the south is sinking.

Answer 130

Isostatic fall is the lowering of land or due to isostatic adjustment, often caused by the redistribution of mass, such as glacial melting or sediment deposition. (Sea level rises in relation to land).

Answer 131

Isostatic rise is the uplift of the Earth's crust due to the removal of a heavy load, such as melting glaciers or erosion, leading to rebound. Causes sea level to fall relative to the land.

Answer 132

Emergent landforms, former wave cut platforms which are now raised above currency level they are formed when Isostatic recovery exceeds sea level.

Answer 133

Associated with rising sea level, for example, rias, fjords and deltas. They are from when a landform is submerged due to rising sea levels

Answer 134

Due to fall in sea level, for example, raised beaches.

Answer 135

○ Land below 5 m would be at risk from flooding ○ saltwater would be polluted by fresh water ○ sea levels would rise by 10 to 20 cm in the south, and sea defences would need to be provided or rebuilt.

Answer 136

The building of mountains in oceans, from tectonic plates moving together, causes sea level rise due to the ocean basin becoming smaller, causing Eustatic rise. However, mountains forming on land or getting bigger cause ocean bases to get bigger so sea levels fall (Eustatic fall).

Answer 137

Very slow movement of soil particles in periglacial environments. ## Footnote Solifluction typically occurs in regions with frozen ground.

Answer 138

A rapid movement of material down a slope. ## Footnote Rockfalls can be triggered by various factors such as earthquakes or weathering.

Answer 139

Saturated Earth and mud flow downhill, over weak bedrock. ## Footnote Mudflows often occur after heavy rainfall or volcanic activity.

Answer 140

Very slow movement of soil particles downhill. ## Footnote Soil creep can be difficult to detect but can lead to significant landscape changes over time.

Answer 141

The process of wearing away material due to friction or impact. ## Footnote Abrasion can occur in various environments, including rivers and coastlines.

Answer 142

The process where particles collide and break down into smaller pieces. ## Footnote Attrition is common in river systems where sediments are transported.

Answer 143

The process of erosion caused by the force of moving water. ## Footnote Hydraulic action is particularly effective in riverbanks and coastal areas.

Answer 144

Dunes building out to sea

Answer 145

○ embryo dune ○ fore dune ○ yellow dune ○ grey dune ○ mature dune

Answer 146

An emergent landform A raised beach is a beach at a level above the shoreline, where high tide no longer reaches. It is formed due to changes in sea level (eustatic change) or land uplift (isostatic rise).

Answer 147

A raised beach is formed by wave action when it is close to the waterline. Later, a change in sea level (eustatic change) or land uplift (isostatic rise) causes the land to be pushed out, leaving the beach elevated above the shoreline.

Answer 148

1. Eustatic (Global) Changes: ○**Thermal expansion** (warmer water expands). ○**Glacial and ice cap melting** (adds water to oceans). ○**Tectonic activity** (alters ocean basin capacity). 2. Isostatic (Local) Changes: ○**Isostatic rebound** (land rises after ice melts). ○**Isostatic sinking** (land sinks due to sediment build-up). ○**Tectonic uplift/subsidence** (earthquakes and movements shift land levels). 3. Other ○ **Human activity** (groundwater extraction, dam construction).

Answer 149

Stage 1: **Eustatic Fall** ○**Climate cools** → More snow & ice stored on land ○Less water in the sea → Sea level falls Stage 2:** Isostatic Movement** ○Ice weight pushes land down ○Causes land subsidence → Sea level rises relative to land Stage 3: **Eustatic Rise** ○Climate warms → Ice melts → Water returns to sea ○Sea level rises → Floods low-lying areas Stage 4: Isostatic Rebound ○Ice melts → Land slowly rises back up ○Creates emergent features (e.g., raised beaches)

Answer 150

- The Sun emits energy in the form of shortwave radiation, which passes through the Earth's atmosphere and reaches the surface. – The Earth's surface absorbs this energy, warms up, and then radiates heat back as longwave infrared radiation. – Greenhouse gases like carbon dioxide (CO₂), methane (CH₄), water vapor (H₂O), absorb and re-radiate some of this heat, preventing it from escaping into space. – This trapped heat keeps the Earth's temperature at an average of around 15°C, making life possible.

Answer 151

○ el niño effect ○ volcanic eruptions (particles emmitiled into the atmosphere blocking the suns radiation, causing short-term cooling (volcanic winter)) ○ milankovitch cycle (small variations in the earths orbit around the sun.

Answer 152

**Burning Fossil Fuels** – Coal, oil, and natural gas release CO₂ into the atmosphere. **Deforestation**– Fewer trees mean less CO₂ is absorbed, increasing greenhouse gas levels. **Agriculture** – Livestock produce methane (CH₄), and fertilizers release nitrous oxide (N₂O). **Industrial Processes** – Factories emit greenhouse gases like CO₂, CH₄, and fluorinated gases. **Waste Disposal** – Landfills release methane from decomposing waste. **Transportation** – Cars, planes, and ships burn fossil fuels, adding CO₂ to the air. **Urbanization** – Expanding cities lead to increased energy use and deforestation.

Answer 153

Mitigation is to stop the problem, and adaptation is where practices are modified to suit new conditions

Answer 154

○ **hold the line**- maintain and continue existing defences ○**advance the line**- build new coastal defences ○**managed retreat**-allow shoreline to erode - managed to minimise damage. ○ **do nothing** deal with erosion as it happens

Answer 155

A cost benefit analysis is carried out before a coastal management project is given to go ahead. Costs of forecast then compared with the expected benefits when costs exceed benefits it's unlikely to be given permission to go ahead.

Answer 156

Edition of sand or pebbles to an existing beach to make it higher or wider.

Answer 157

○It's relatively cheap and easy to maintain ○it looks natural and blends with the existing beach ○increases tourist potential by creating a bigger beach

Answer 158

Constant maintenance because of natural processes of erosion and longshore drift as these aren't combatted in anyway

Answer 159

Cliff regrading reduces the angle of a cliff to help stabilize it as the steeper the cliff easier erosion impacts it. Drainage removes water and prevents landslides and slumping.

Answer 160

**Advantages** Can be effective on clay or loose rocks where other methods won't work and drainage is cost-effective **disadvantages** Degrading effectively causes the cliff to retreat and drainage Cliffs can dry out and lead to collapse and rock Falls

Answer 161

Murram grass can be planted to stabilize dunes as the roots and vegetation stabilise it. Areas can be fenced in to keep people of newly planted dunes

Answer 162

**Advantages** Maintains a natural coastal environment that provides important wildlife habitats and is relatively cheap **Disadvantages** It's time consuming to plant Marron grass and people may respond negatively to being kept off certain areas

Answer 163

A form of managed retreat by allowing low-lying coastal areas to be flooded by the sea the land then becomes a Salt Marsh

Answer 164

**Advantages** It's relatively cheap, creating a natural buffer to powerful waves and an important wildlife habitat. **Disadvantages** Agricultural land is lost. Farmers or landowners need to be compensated.

Answer 165

○ beach nourishment ○ cliff regrading and drainage ○ dune stabilisation ○ marsh creation ○ reprofiling

Answer 166

A form of soft engineering that reduces the steepness of the beach, this causes a weaker backwash, stronger swash -> constructive waves.

Answer 167

○It can be expensive over time as it has to be redone ○machinery for smth like beach nourishment causes pollution

Answer 168

○ sometimes cheaper for the local government or Council to buy the land and not protect it ○ don't have the budget or money for it ○ it's an unpopulated area ○ by protecting one area of the coast it may starve areas down the coast ○ some people buy The Land knowing it's not going to be there as it's cheap land for example businesses like a caravan park

Answer 169

○ groynes ○ sea walls ○ rock armour (rip rap) ○ revetments ○ offshore breakwater

Answer 170

Timber or rock structures built at right angles to the coast to stop longshore drift by trapping sediment and building up the beach.

Answer 171

**Advantages** Not too expensive Works with natural processes to build up the beach **Disadvantages** Staves beaches down the coast Can be unattractive

Answer 172

Stone or concrete walls at the foot of a cliff or at the top of the beach they usually have a curved face to reflect waves back to the sea.

Answer 173

**Advantages** Effective and often have a promenade for people to walk along **Disadvantages** They reflect wave energy instead of absorbing it Expensive to build and maintain Unattractive

Answer 174

Large rocks placed at the foot of a cliff or at the top of a beach. Forms a permeable barrier to the sea breaking up the waves but allowing some water to pass through.

Answer 175

**Advantages** Relatively cheap Easy to construct and maintain **Disadvantages** Can be dangerous to ppl climbing over Looks unnatural, especially non local rocks lock geological out of place

Answer 176

Sleeping wooden or concrete rock structures placed at the top of a beach or the foot of a cliff to break up the waves energy

Answer 177

**Advantages** Relatively cheap **Disadvantages** High maintenance levels Unattractive

Answer 178

A partially submerged rock barrier designed to break up the waves before they reach the coast.

Answer 179

**Advantages** Effective **Disadvantages** Potential hazard for navigation Unattractive

Answer 180

A strategy for managing flood and erosion risk for a particular stretch of coastline, over short, medium, and long-term periods. It should be sustainable, address the conflicts between conpeteting coastal interests, and take into account natural coastal processes as well as the needs of people.

Answer 181

It aims to manage a section of coastline as a whole and is a dynamic process that aims to promote sustainable management of coastal areas by integrating various policies, sectors, and stakeholder interests to balance environmental protection with economic and social development.

Answer 182

A polder is an area of reclaimed land which is mainly surrounded by raised banks, within which water levels can be controlled most of the Land Reclaimed by polders is used for farming as polder land is often very fertile and sought after.

Coastal Systems AW Flashcards

(206 cards)