Waves in The Open Ocean Flashcards
Waves are generated by 2 competing forces:
- a disturbing force (eg wind)
- a restoring force (gravity)
T/F
Anything that releases energy to the ocean can create waves
true!
Longitudinal wave=
particles move back and forth in the direction of energy transmission. Eg. clapping your hands
- transmit energy through all states of matter
Transverse wave=
particles move back and forth at right angles to the direction of energy transmission. Eg. shaking a rope attached to the wall
- only transmit energy though solids
Orbital waves=
the movement of water waves
- particles move in a circular path. Transmit energy along interface of 2 fluids of diff density (eg water and air)
Stokes drift=
some net forward motion of the water as a wave passes
- the forward speed at the crest is slightly larger than the backwards speed at the base of the trough
Wind deforms the ocean sfc into small waves (ripples, L less than 1.74cm). These are called __ ________
Capillary waves
_______ _______ develop when more energy is transferred to the ocean
gravity waves
As more energy is gained in the ocean, wave height increases faster than wavelength = the crest becomes pointed and troughs rounded. These are called
Trochoidal waveforms
Wave heights depend on which 4 things?
wind speed
wind fetch
wind duration
water depth
What is a swell?
When wave steepness decreases and becomes long-crested, uniform, symmetrical
Can move great distances with little loss of energy
Rogue waves=
massive, solitary, spontaneous waves
Constructive interference=
create bigger waves
In the open ocean, longer waves travel ___(faster/ slower) than shorter waves
longer waves= faster
