Lecture 15 Flashcards

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1
Q

What is another name for backshore?

A

Supratidal

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2
Q

What is another name for foreshore?

A

Inter-tidal

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3
Q

What is another name for nearshore?

A

Sub-tidal

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4
Q

What is surf beat?

A

Groups of waves larger due to combined wave swells

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5
Q

Describe wind waves

A

High energy short and do most work over longer period of time

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6
Q

Define fetch.

A

The distance of wind blowing long fetch more waves more energy

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7
Q

What is the wave motion offshore?

A

Oscillatory motion

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8
Q

Describe wave motion nearshore.

A

Waves begin to feel the bottom and stand up

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9
Q

Where are eddies?

A

In a wave motion

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10
Q

What is a swash zone

A

Water uprush on a beach

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11
Q

What are the 3 main wave modification processes

A

Refraction
Diffraction
Reflection

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12
Q

What is refraction?

A

Change in direction due to shoaling in shallow water. Waves bend to parallel to the shore. It also focuses erosion on headlands

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13
Q

What is diffraction?

A

Waves bending around objects and recombine constructively and destructively

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14
Q

Define wave reflection.

A

Some incoming wave energy is reflected by steep beaches and sea walls

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15
Q

What is a tombolo?

A

A diffraction landform which is a strip of land connecting mainland to an object-called an isthmus

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16
Q

Do shallow beaches dissipate more or less energy steep beaches?

A

Shallow beaches dissipate more energy

17
Q

Steep beaches reflect _______ energy than shallow beaches

A

More

18
Q

What factors on a beach dissipate energy?

A
Sand particle
Beach steepness 
Friction
Shoaling 
Slope activity
19
Q

Can incoming and reflective waves combine?

A

Yes destructively and constructively

20
Q

What is a spring tide?

A

It is the biggest tide occurring because the sun and moon gravitational pull is constructive

21
Q

What is a neap tide?

A

Sun and moon are perpendicular to eachother causing destructive low tides

22
Q

Are beaches sensitive to changes in climate?

A

Yes