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Coasts > Holly east > Flashcards

Holly east Flashcards

1
Q

How many people live next to the coast?

A

40% (2.4 billion people) of worlds population live within 100km of coast

21/33 mega cities

By 2100 sea level could rise 0.5m and displace 200 million people

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2
Q

Define costal zone

A

Area which terrestrial environment influence marine environment

Vice versa

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3
Q

Define landward limit

A

Area not directly influenced by marine processes

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4
Q

Define seaward limit

A

Area where waves stop interacting with sea bed

Not directly influenced by terrestrial processes

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5
Q

Define backshore

A

Area between high water Mark and land ward limit of marine activity

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6
Q

Define foreshore

A

Area between high and low water mark

Important for marine activity here

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7
Q

Define inshore

A

Area between low water mark and point where waves cease to have any influence on land around them

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8
Q

Define offshore

A

Area beyond the point which waves cease to impact sea bed

Activity limited to sediment deposition

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9
Q

How is the coast considered a system

A

Inputs
Processes
Outputs

Of material and energy

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10
Q

Is the coast an open or closed system

A

Open

Inputs of sediment outside of the system from sediment in rivers and outputs to the sand dunes in which material can move inland

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11
Q

Describe the masselinks coastal model system

A 
A set of env conditions
Sediment 
Geology
Human activity
External forcing

Energy lost and gained as processes occur that move sediment and build up or break down the morphology of the coats

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12
Q

What are external forcings?

A

Processes providing energy

Waves
Wind
Precipitation

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13
Q

What is straitigraphy

A

Gives us an insight into past behaviour from rocks etc

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14
Q

Name 2 marine processes

A

WAves

Tides

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15
Q

Name 2 sub aerial processes

A

Weathering

Mass movements

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16
Q

Describe formation of a wave

A

1- wind blows over ocean surface which creates frictional drag

2- this drag causes water particles to rotate in circular motion

3- as water reaches shallow water the friction between sea bed and bottom of wave causes it to slow and create an elliptical shape

4- top of the wave is unaffected by friction (crest) so it becomes steep , moves quick and stumbles over braking on the shore

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17
Q

Name 3 waves in shallow water

A

Spilling

Plunging

Surging

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18
Q

Define spilling waves

A

Shallow gradient

Gradually transports water towards beach

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19
Q

Define plunging waves

A

Steeper gradient

Base decelerates quick

The crest pitched out in front creating a circled wave

Good for surfing

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20
Q

Define surging wave

A

Very steep radiant

No time for the wave to break before reaching the shore so water pushes up on tobeach

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21
Q

Name 3 wave actions happening in intermediate water

A

Shocking

Refraction

Rip currents

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22
Q

Define shoaling

A

Waves change in height as they travel into shallower water

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23
Q

Define refraction

A

Change in wave direction caused by difference in speed along wave front

Headlands cause waves to configure as they enter shallow water
Rest of wave travels quick in bay

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24
Q

Define rip currents

A

Water moves quick back out to shore

Dangerous
Swim parallel to coast or float out and swim back

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25
Q

What creates tides

A

Rise and fall of ocean due to Grav pull of moon and sun acting on the rotating earth

Spring

Neap

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26
Q

Name the 3 weathering processes

A

Biological eg animals like limpets

Chemical - change composition of rocks

Physical

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27
Q

Name 5 mass movements types

A

Creep
Slump
Slide
Flow fall

Lots of rain and Failure of weak slope
Depends on gradient - how sticky grains are

28
Q

What are wave dominated coasts made up of

A

Beaches

Dunes

Barriers

29
Q

Define beach

A

A wave deposited land from of sand or gravel along marine lacustrine or estuarine shorelines

30
Q

Define dune

A

Ridges formed at the rear of the beach from movement of sand via wind not any involvement of tides/ currents or waves

Saltation eg

31
Q

Define barriers

A

Long term accumulation of usually sand sediment from wave/tide and wind deposited st shore

slighly above sea

lagoon

32
Q

What are tidal dominated coasts made up of

A

Estuaries

Salt marshes

Mangroves

33
Q

Define estuary

A

River valley that’s flooded by marine water

Mixing of fresh and salty water

Zones : sub tidal / intertidal/ supratidal

34
Q

Define salt marsh

A

Coastal wetlands that are flooded and drained by salty water which is brought in by tides

Depends on high and low tide and geomorphology and ecology

35
Q

Define mangroves

A

Trees and shrubs that grow in saline coastal habitats in tropics or subtropic environments

36
Q

What are fluvial dominates coats made up of

A

Deltas

37
Q

Define delta

A

Accumulations of sediment deposited when river entered the sea

Delta plain - delta front - pro delta

Classified as river dominated / tide dominated / wave dominated

38
Q

What do erosive coasts make up of

A

Rocky coasts

Mass movement
Rock breakdown processes
Marine rock removal processes

39
Q

Rocky coast morphology ??

A

Sloping shore platform - eg Bude, Cornwall

Sub-horizontal shore platform - eg wallongong, New South Wales , OZ

40
Q

Why is coastal managements important in Europe

A

70 million people live within coastal zone
This doubled in last 50 years

15 km2/yr lost to erosion

41
Q

Why is management needed in the uk

A

200 properties currently at risk

Could rise to 2000 properties over next 20 years

42
Q

How much coastline is defended in uk

A

England and Wales coastline 44% defended (2001)

Uk approx 2400km of artificially protected coast , longer in Europe

43
Q

How much does uk spend on coastal management

A

1996 - £300 mill

2019/20 - £815 mill

44
Q

Define hard engineering

A

Construction of physical structures

Control and disrupt natural processes

Expensive

45
Q

Define soft engineering

A

Work with natural processes in harmony

Instead of resist

46
Q

What is coastal managements aims

A

To alter coastal system by causing shifts in env boundary conditions or processes

47
Q

Hard engineering examples

A

Sea wall - erosion / flooding

Revetments - erioosn

Groynes - beach stabilise

Rock armour+gan ions - erosion

Breakwaters - offshore protection

Jetties - inlet tidal managements

Tidal barrages - flooding

48
Q

Negatives of hard engineering

A

Expensive initially and to maintain

Resident sediment transport LSD

49
Q

Triangle for coastal management

A

Visual impact

Energy

Material and construction costs

50
Q

Soft engineering examples

A

Beach nourishment - builds up beach eg Myrtle beach us

Dune stabilisation - plants/meshes/ fences

Cliff stabilisation - wires mesh/ pinning/ drainage pipes

51
Q

Example of dune stabilisation

A

Tynemouth long sands

2013 - £57,000 grand from env agency

Fencing
Board walks
Marram grass
Sand replenishment

52
Q

Name 4 management options

A

Do nothing

Hold the line

Managed realignment

Advance the line

53
Q

Define do nothing

A

No investment in defending coast from flooding or erosion

54
Q

Define hold the line

A

Build and maintain the artificial defence so shoreline position remains

55
Q

Define managed realignment

A

Allows shoreline to move naturally but managing in certain places

Usually low lying areas

56
Q

Define advance the line

A

Nee defences are built on seaward side a

57
Q

What kind of Appraoch has uk adopted

A

Holistic approach

Manage each part of coastline individually to what they need

They involve all management options

58
Q

Example of managed realignment

A

Humber estuary the defences where breached on purpose to create new intertidal habitats

Also created salt marshes which dissipate wave energy

Reduce risk of flooding as sea level rises due to global warming

59
Q

Describe what coral reefs are

A

Animals - they don’t photosynthesise

Secrete a carbonate exoskeleton

Energy from direct food like Phanktpn or algal hosts

Their growth is strongly dependent on algal that lives within coral toks he

They are the building block of a reef

60
Q

What is the algae called that coral is strongly dependent on for growth

A

Zooanthellae

61
Q

Name 3 key reef types

A

Atoll

Barrier

Fringing

62
Q

Define fringing reef

A

Adjacent to coast

Small

Often discontinuous

Restricted narrow lagoon

63
Q

Define barrier reef

A

Large linear complex reef

Develop at shelf edges

Separate from land by wide lagoon
Eg Great Barrier Reef

64
Q

Define atoll reefs

A

Ringed reefs rising from deep ocean

Large central lagoon

No adjacent last mass

65
Q

Darwin’s theory of coral reef types in evolutionary sequence

A

1 - volcano in ocean (fringing)

2 - volcano subsidises (barrier)

3- depression is created in ocean and water fills it up (atoll)

Sequence driven by long term subsidence of ocean floor

66
Q

How do humans impact coral reef

A

Sediment runoff from agriculture

Oil spills

Dynamite fishing

Over exploitation

Conservation - mainly all bad but this is good

67
Q

What external forcings act on coral reefs

A

Hurricane
Eg cancun , mexico , hurricane Wilma 2005

They snap and erode the reefs but can build up the sediment creating new landforms

Coasts (1 decks)

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