Coasts & Tides Flashcards

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1
Q

Fetch

A

The distance over which wind has blown to form a wave

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2
Q

Backwash

A

The movement of water back down a beach

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3
Q

Swash

A

The movement of water up a beach

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4
Q

Coast

A

A narrow zone where the land and the se overlap and directly interact

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5
Q

Offshore

A

Zone where the waves have not started to break but are forming

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6
Q

Nearshore

A

Zone where waves break

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7
Q

Backshore

A

Zone between the high tide mark and vegetation

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8
Q

Berm

A

Sand above the high tide mark (dry sand)

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9
Q

Order of shores (land to sea)

A

Backshore, Foreshore, Nearshore, Offshore

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10
Q

How are tides formed

A

Caused by Gravitational pull of the sun and the moon (moon is greater influence)

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11
Q

Spring Tides

A

Highest tides and form when moon, sun and earth re aligned so the tide force is at its strongest

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12
Q

Neap Tides

A

Lowest tides and form when moon and sun and 90 degrees to each other.

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13
Q

Crest

A

Peak of wave (highest point)

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14
Q

Trough

A

Base of wave

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15
Q

Wave Height

A

Difference between crest and trough

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16
Q

Wave Length

A

Distance between consecutive crests

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17
Q

Amplitude

A

1/2 wave height

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18
Q

Set

A

A group of waves (usually 7)

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19
Q

Swell

A

Waves the have enough energy to travel well beyond the pace of origin. It marches in broader lines and with bigger gaps between each crest.

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20
Q

Factors affecting strength and size of wave

A

Strength and speed of wind= faster the wind leads to more energy transferred therefore the bigger the waves

Duration of the wind= length of time for which the wind has blown, the longer the wind blows for the more energy transferred to the wave

Fetch= the distance over which the wind has blown (i.e. how far the wave has travelled less to longer fetch therefore the stronger the wave

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21
Q

How are waves formed

A

Wind has blown over the surface creating a friction drag. the drag case the water particles to begin to rotate and energy is transferred forward in the form of wave. as shallow water occurs the friction increases between the sea bed and base of the wave causing the wave to slow down. the top of the wave is unaffected and therefore starts to curl over causing it to break. swash them moves up the Beach and then back (backwash)

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22
Q

Constructive Waves

A

Wave energy= low
Dominant process= Deposition
Net movement of sand= onshore
Height= less tham 1m
Frequency= less than 10 minutes
Seasons= summer

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23
Q

Destructive Waves

A

Wave energy= high
Dominant process= Erosion
Net movement of sand= offshore
Height= above 1m
Frequency= above 10 minutes
Seasons= winter

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24
Q

Refraction

A

Shallow water impacts the movement of. wave by slowing the wave down (bending the wave)

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25
Q

Types of Physical Weathering

A

Freeze-thaw, Exfoliation, Wetting + drying, crystal growth, pressure release, organic action

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26
Q

List Erosion Processes

A

Erosion, Weathering, Run off, Mass Movement

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27
Q

Describe Freeze-thaw

A

Water collects in cracks of rocks and expands by 9%, the pressure created by the expansion weakens the rock causing it to crack

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28
Q

Describe Exfoliation

A

The rocks surface heats up and expands, and then cools and contracts, overtime the layers ‘peel away’

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29
Q

Describe Wetting + Drying

A

minerals expand when the get wet and contact when dry. constant expansion and contraction causes the rock to disintegrate

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30
Q

Describe Organic Action

A

Breaking/splitting the rock by plant roots growing in between and burrowing animals

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31
Q

Types of Chemical Weathering

A

Hydrolisis, Hydration, Carbonation, solution, oxidation, chelation

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32
Q

Describe Hydration

A

Water is absorbed in the crystal structure and causes chemical change

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33
Q

Describe Oxidation

A

Minerals rect with oxygen dissolved in water leading to collapsing in molecule structure

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34
Q

Describe Solution

A

Unlike limestone some minerals don’t require a chemical reaction to be soluble. Halite (rock salt) will dissolve in water

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35
Q

Mass Movement

A

all downhill movement of weathered material including soil, loose stones and rocks, in response to gravity

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36
Q

List types of Mass Movement

A

Slumping, Mudslide, Rockfall, Land Slide

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37
Q

Describe Rockfall

A

Occur on very Steep slopes, and dry and fast movement occurs due to the breakdown rock being exposed and weak points, these collapse due to weathering

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38
Q

Describe Mudslide

A

Occur on steep slopes on which has become saturated. the soil and rock layers mix causing a disruption

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39
Q

Describe Slumping

A

Blocks of land material move down a cliff along a curved shear plane caused by extra weight due to saturation and undercutting

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40
Q

Describe Landslide

A

Dry material moves down on an angled surface and can be triggered by tectonic movement and drilling by humans

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41
Q

Headlands

A

Hard rocks are less easily eroded than soft rocks creating a headland or cliff

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42
Q

Bays

A

Softer rocks (cays, sands) more easily eroded creating a bay

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43
Q

Soft Rocks

A

Sands, Clay, Limestone

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44
Q

Hard Rocks

A

Basalt, granite

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45
Q

Concordant Coastline

A

The same rock type runs parallel to the coastline

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46
Q

Discordant Coastline

A

Different rock types (headlands/bays) run perpendicular to the coastline

47
Q

Types of Erosion

A

Abrasion, Attrition, Hydraulic action, Corrosion

48
Q

Describe Abrasion

A

Rocks are flung against the cliff face and then fall creating a sand paper effect

49
Q

Describe Attrition

A

Rocks move back and fourth against each other creating a ‘rubbing effect’

50
Q

Describe Hydraulic Action

A

Air is tapped with in the rock and compresses the air causing pressure resulting in the rock cracking

51
Q

Describe Corrosion

A

Slightly acidic sea water chemically breaking down the rock

52
Q

Types of Transportation

A

Traction, Saltation, Suspension, Solution

53
Q

Describe Traction

A

pebbles and larger sediments are ‘rolled’ along the sea bed

54
Q

Describe Saltation

A

‘Hopping’ of sand grins on the surface

55
Q

Describe Suspension

A

Small particles are carried in the water creating a ‘cloudy’ look

56
Q

Describe Solution

A

The load is no longer visible

57
Q

Wave Cut Notch

A

Increased erosion due to the combination of hydraulic action and abrasion. Find weak points between H+L tide marks due to constant movement of water

58
Q

Wave Cut Platform

A

Cliff face has collapsed as the wave notch has increased in size (excess rubble from cliff gets moves on by the waves or attrition process)

59
Q

Caves

A

Wave cut notch first and then a cave may form at the point of wave focus.

60
Q

Arch

A

Cave increases in size and “meets” the cave on the other side of the headland forming an arch

61
Q

Blow holes

A

Part of the roof of the arch or cave collapses due tog gravity or pressure therefore a blow hole may form

62
Q

Stack

A

The arch becomes unsupported and collapses to form a stack

63
Q

Stump

A

A collapsed Stack

64
Q

Long Shore Drift (LSD)

A

The movement of sand along the shoreline as waves hit the Beach at an angle other then 90 degrees

65
Q

How is a Salt Marsh formed

A

Area behind the spit is sheltered from prevailing winds + turbulence therefore there is far less energy. Rtes of deposition are greater than transportation due to lack of energy in waves. River sediment gets captured behind the spit and leads to a salt marsh

66
Q

How is a Spit formed

A

A spit if formed by long shore drift, which is when sediment is carried onto beach on an angle and backwash occurs straight back out due wind and wave direction

67
Q

How is a Cuspate spit formed

A

A spit if formed by long shore drift, which is when sediment is carried onto beach on an angle and backwash occurs straight back out due wind and wave direction this occurs on both sides on land and the spit joins each other creating a cuspate spit.

68
Q

How is a Sand bar formed

A

When a spit which was formed connects to the other side of land creating a sand bar and temporary lagoon

69
Q

Lagoons

A

Behind the bar, a lagoon is created, where water has been trapped and the lagoon may gradually be infilled as a salt marsh develops due to it being a low energy zone, encouraging deposition

70
Q

How is a Barrier island formed

A

affected by the local weather, tidal and geographic conditions. A combination of wind and wave action serves to deposit sand and sediment, building up the base of the island and eventually forming dunes

71
Q

How is a Tombolo formed

A

By long shore drift coming both ways forming a cuspate spit. This is formed from wind and wave direction coming both ways causing sand material to met. Overtime the snd extends out to sea and connects to an island. A tombolo spit is a spit which connects to and island

72
Q

How are Dunes formed

A

Sand dunes are formed when obstacles get into way, and cause the snd to settle. The pile of sand slowly becomes so steep it from a crest and the sand will fall down other side until a 30-34 degrees angle has occurred this prevent sand form slipping. Overtime it will migrate inland over time. Due to this the sand dune becomes an obstacle itself. The stronger the winds are, higher the sand dunes. Spinifex grasses develop which binds the sand together cause it build up in size.

73
Q

Sand Dune Requirements to be made

A

Large flat beach, Large supply of sand, Large tidal range, onshore wind, obstacle

74
Q

Foredune Vegetation

A

Low in nutrients, dries out quickly, cope with exposure to sun, salt and windblown sand, Spandex and marram grass often found

75
Q

Backdune Vegetation

A

More protection for wind and salt, allowing small plants and shrubs to be established. low nutrients and dry and salty conditions

76
Q

List Soft management techniques

A

Replenishment, Nourishment, Afforestation, Brush matting, Managed retreat, Marshland, living shoreline barrier

77
Q

Replenishment

A

Beach material is brought in from somewhere else and is dumped or pumped onto a beach to make it larger

78
Q

Replenishment Advantages

A

Increases distance wave has to travel, decreases wave energy

79
Q

Replenishment Disadvantages

A

Sand needs to be sourced from somewhere else usually by dreading, requires maintenance, costly

80
Q

Nourishment

A

Relocating beach material from one end of the Beach to other to make the Beach larger

81
Q

Nourishment Advantages

A

Increases distance wave has to travel, decrease wave energy preventing erosion

82
Q

Nourishment Disadvantages

A

Requires maintenance, costly, only works if wave energy is low

83
Q

Afforestation

A

Planting trees and grasses on dunes and in swale to help stabilise. Helps trap sand and build it up

84
Q

Afforestation Advantages

A

Relative cheap, Natural looking, deep roots help surpport the dunes

85
Q

Afforestation Disadvantages

A

Can be damaged by storms/waves, must zone off form public areas, negative if non-endemic species are planted

86
Q

Brush Matting

A

Laying down dead branches/ off cuts onto the dunes to help trap sand and offer opportunities to develop dunes

87
Q

Brush Matting Advantages

A

Relative cheap, Natural looking

88
Q

Brush Matting Disadvantages

A

Dead branches need to be sourced for somewhere else

89
Q

Managed Retreat

A

Controlled flooding of low-lying coastal areas to stop erosion. Usually occurs when land has low value

90
Q

Managed Retreat Advantages

A

Salt marshes provide wildlife habits and ecosystems, lower cost

91
Q

Managed Retreat Disadvantages

A

Compensate people for lost land, land reclaimed by sea

92
Q

Marshland

A

Creating new marshland allows vegetation to stable sediment and decrease speed/energy of waves

93
Q

Marshland Advantages

A

Salt marshes provide wildlife habits and ecosystems, lower cost

94
Q

Marshland Disadvantages

A

Compensate people for lost land, land reclaimed by sea

95
Q

Living Shoreline Barrier

A

Planting shoreline vegetation or shellfish colonies to absorb wave energy between shore and sea

96
Q

List Hard Management Strategies

A

Concrete sea wall, Groyne, Reventment, Rip Rap, Tetrapods, Gabion

97
Q

Concrete Sea Wall

A

Solid wall protecting that cost by shielding it with concrete, Steele, stone

98
Q

Concrete Sea Wall Advantages

A

Absorbs + deflects wave energy back to sea long used with proven effectiveness, Curve dampens wave power

99
Q

Concrete Sea Wall Disadvantages

A

Requires repairs, Expensive to construct, artificial appearance, Creates strong backwash can erode under sea wall

100
Q

Reventment

A

Open slanted concrete or wooden fencing/fence offering partial resistance by letting some water to pass through

101
Q

Reventment Advantages

A

Cheaper than seawall, reduces power of oncoming waves, allows beach material to be deposited behind

102
Q

Reventment Disadvantages

A

Restrict access from a beach, damaged in high conditions, regular maintenance and repair, creates strong backwash

103
Q

Rip Rap

A

Massive boulders of natural rock placed in positions and placed in pilled up at the base of a cliff or sea wall to absorb energy of waves

104
Q

Rip Rap Advantages

A

Less maintenance than sea wall, granite often used, barely eroded, more natural looking

105
Q

Rip Rap Disadvantages

A

Expensive to extract, transport and place in position, can lead to injuires by climbing, impede access to beach

106
Q

Tetrapods

A

Moulded multi-angular concrete shapes formed on site and then tipped onto beach to form interlocking components

107
Q

Tetrapods Advantages

A

Cheaper than rip rap but does same job, effective along long stretches of coastline, provide protection

108
Q

Tetrapods Disadvantages

A

Less attractive, endanger swimmers, impossible to climb over

109
Q

Gabion

A

Rock filled wire cages places along vulnerable coast

110
Q

Gabion Advantages

A

Cheaper than tetrapods but does same job, may look more attractive

111
Q

Gabion Disadvantages

A

Requires maintenance and repair, Inhibit specs between rocks, Wire cant just and break due to high weather

112
Q

Hard Engineering

A

Traditional strategies that aim to slow down or prevent further erosion of the coastline talking place, usually by placing an artificial, more resting barrier between wave action and the coast

113
Q

Soft Engineering

A

Soft engineering is where the natural environment is used to help reduces cost erosion and river flooding