Coasts & Tides Flashcards
Fetch
The distance over which wind has blown to form a wave
Backwash
The movement of water back down a beach
Swash
The movement of water up a beach
Coast
A narrow zone where the land and the se overlap and directly interact
Offshore
Zone where the waves have not started to break but are forming
Nearshore
Zone where waves break
Backshore
Zone between the high tide mark and vegetation
Berm
Sand above the high tide mark (dry sand)
Order of shores (land to sea)
Backshore, Foreshore, Nearshore, Offshore
How are tides formed
Caused by Gravitational pull of the sun and the moon (moon is greater influence)
Spring Tides
Highest tides and form when moon, sun and earth re aligned so the tide force is at its strongest
Neap Tides
Lowest tides and form when moon and sun and 90 degrees to each other.
Crest
Peak of wave (highest point)
Trough
Base of wave
Wave Height
Difference between crest and trough
Wave Length
Distance between consecutive crests
Amplitude
1/2 wave height
Set
A group of waves (usually 7)
Swell
Waves the have enough energy to travel well beyond the pace of origin. It marches in broader lines and with bigger gaps between each crest.
Factors affecting strength and size of wave
Strength and speed of wind= faster the wind leads to more energy transferred therefore the bigger the waves
Duration of the wind= length of time for which the wind has blown, the longer the wind blows for the more energy transferred to the wave
Fetch= the distance over which the wind has blown (i.e. how far the wave has travelled less to longer fetch therefore the stronger the wave
How are waves formed
Wind has blown over the surface creating a friction drag. the drag case the water particles to begin to rotate and energy is transferred forward in the form of wave. as shallow water occurs the friction increases between the sea bed and base of the wave causing the wave to slow down. the top of the wave is unaffected and therefore starts to curl over causing it to break. swash them moves up the Beach and then back (backwash)
Constructive Waves
Wave energy= low
Dominant process= Deposition
Net movement of sand= onshore
Height= less tham 1m
Frequency= less than 10 minutes
Seasons= summer
Destructive Waves
Wave energy= high
Dominant process= Erosion
Net movement of sand= offshore
Height= above 1m
Frequency= above 10 minutes
Seasons= winter
Refraction
Shallow water impacts the movement of. wave by slowing the wave down (bending the wave)
Types of Physical Weathering
Freeze-thaw, Exfoliation, Wetting + drying, crystal growth, pressure release, organic action
List Erosion Processes
Erosion, Weathering, Run off, Mass Movement
Describe Freeze-thaw
Water collects in cracks of rocks and expands by 9%, the pressure created by the expansion weakens the rock causing it to crack
Describe Exfoliation
The rocks surface heats up and expands, and then cools and contracts, overtime the layers ‘peel away’
Describe Wetting + Drying
minerals expand when the get wet and contact when dry. constant expansion and contraction causes the rock to disintegrate
Describe Organic Action
Breaking/splitting the rock by plant roots growing in between and burrowing animals
Types of Chemical Weathering
Hydrolisis, Hydration, Carbonation, solution, oxidation, chelation
Describe Hydration
Water is absorbed in the crystal structure and causes chemical change
Describe Oxidation
Minerals rect with oxygen dissolved in water leading to collapsing in molecule structure
Describe Solution
Unlike limestone some minerals don’t require a chemical reaction to be soluble. Halite (rock salt) will dissolve in water
Mass Movement
all downhill movement of weathered material including soil, loose stones and rocks, in response to gravity
List types of Mass Movement
Slumping, Mudslide, Rockfall, Land Slide
Describe Rockfall
Occur on very Steep slopes, and dry and fast movement occurs due to the breakdown rock being exposed and weak points, these collapse due to weathering
Describe Mudslide
Occur on steep slopes on which has become saturated. the soil and rock layers mix causing a disruption
Describe Slumping
Blocks of land material move down a cliff along a curved shear plane caused by extra weight due to saturation and undercutting
Describe Landslide
Dry material moves down on an angled surface and can be triggered by tectonic movement and drilling by humans
Headlands
Hard rocks are less easily eroded than soft rocks creating a headland or cliff
Bays
Softer rocks (cays, sands) more easily eroded creating a bay
Soft Rocks
Sands, Clay, Limestone
Hard Rocks
Basalt, granite
Concordant Coastline
The same rock type runs parallel to the coastline