coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

what is the coast

A

where the sea meets the land

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2
Q

how are waves caused

A

they are created by the action of wind blowing over the surface of the sea

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3
Q

how does wind create waves

A

the wind causes friction on the surface of the wave
this creats the circular motion of a wave

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4
Q

what is the swash

A

movement of a wave up a beach

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5
Q

what is backwash

A

movement of a wave back down the beach

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6
Q

what causes a wave to break

A

friction at the base of the wave

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7
Q

what is the fetch

A

the distance of which wind blows

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8
Q

what decides the energy of a wave

A
  • velocity of wind
  • duration of wind blowing
  • fetch
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9
Q

what are the two types of waves

A

constructive
destructive

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10
Q

describe the characteristics of a constructive wave

A
  • big wavelength
  • strong swash
  • weak backwash
  • low frequency
  • small fetch
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11
Q

what do constructive waves do

A

they build wide sandy beaches with a gentle gradient, depositing sand

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12
Q

describe the characteristics of a destructive wave

A
  • big waveheight
  • small wavelength
  • bigger fetch
  • weak swash
  • strong backwash
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13
Q

what do destructive waves do

A

they destroy the beach giving it a harsher gradient, erosion is dominant

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14
Q

define erosion in the terms of coasts

A

the proces of wearing away the land by waves

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15
Q

what are the four types of erosion

A
  • solution (chemical)
  • abrassion (rubbing)
  • hydrolic action (power)
  • attrition / corrosion (rocks)
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16
Q

what is solution erosion

A

chemicals breaking down geology

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17
Q

what is abrassion erosion

A

when sediement in waves rub against the coast

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18
Q

what is hydrolic action erosion

A

the force of compressed air are the waves hit the coast, weakening the rock

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19
Q

what is attrition erosion

A

when big rocks break each other down into smaller rocks

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20
Q

why does deposition happen

A

the waves lose energy, dropping the sand, rock particles and pebbles it carries

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21
Q

when is deposition most likely to occur

A
  • waves enter a shallow area
  • waves enter a sheltered area
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22
Q

what are the four types of transportation

A
  • solution (cannot see)
  • suspension (floating)
  • saltation (bounce)
  • traction (roll)
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23
Q

what is long shore drift

A

the movement of sediment along the coast laterally

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24
Q

what labels are needed in an LSD disgram

A
  • swash
  • backwash at 90degrees
  • direction of LSD
  • prevailing wind
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25
Q

what is weathering

A

the breakdown or decay of rocks by natual processes in situ

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26
Q

what are two examples of physical weathering

A
  • freeze thaw
  • exfoliation
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27
Q

what is freeze thaw weathering

A

water gets into rocks and it expands as it freezes - applying pressure causing the rock to break

28
Q

what are two examples of chemical weathering

A
  • solution
  • carbonation
29
Q

what is solution weathering

A

the dissolving action of water on rocks based on the cemicals the water contains

30
Q

what is carbonation weathering

A

CO2 found in rain waer produces carbonic acid - dissolving limestone

31
Q

what is exfoliation weathering

A

heat causing rocks to expand, making the rock weak when it contracts as it cools

32
Q

what is biological weathering

A
  • animals
  • plants
33
Q

how do animals and plants weather

A
  • burrowing moving the soil
  • birds acidic waste
  • roots growing
34
Q

what is mass movement

A

the downhill movement of weathered materials under the force of gravity

35
Q

give four examples of mass movement

A
  • landslides
  • mudflow
  • rockfall
  • rotational slip (clay)
36
Q

decribe a landslide

A

1 large section of rock moving downhill in one rapid motion

37
Q

describe a mudflow

A

heavy rain saturating the soil, increasing its wieght giving it a bigger gravitational potential

38
Q

describe a rockfall

A

small chucks and fragments of rock brocken away from the cliff face often due to freeze thaw

39
Q

decribe a rotational slip

A

heavy rain saturating clay, casuing slides and a rotational movement down a slope

40
Q

what is a concordent coastline

A

a coast with only consistance geology

41
Q

what is a discordent coastline

A

a coast with multiple varied geology stratas

42
Q

what rock are bays made

A

soft rock

43
Q

what labels go on a wave-cut notch diagram

A
  • overhanging cliff
  • high tide
  • low tide
  • wave-cut notch
  • retreating coastline
44
Q

describe how a wave-cut notch and platform is formed

A
  • the sea erodes through hydrolic action, the base of the cliff, leading to a wave-cut notch
  • eventurally the notch becomes larger and the weight of the cliff causes mass movement
  • the rubble is washed away by longshore drift which smooths out the base by abrasion
  • the wavecut platform of hard rock is left behind
45
Q

give four examples of hard engineering

A
  • groynes
  • rock armour
  • sea wall
  • gabions
46
Q

give a description of groynes

A

wooden fences placed at right angles to the beaches to trap sand being moved by longshore drift

47
Q

give a description of rock armour

A

large boulders piled on the beach absorbe the wave energy reducing erosion of the beach

48
Q

what are the advantages and disadvantages of groynes

A

+ wider beach
+ prevents being lost
+ increase tourism
-poor aestetics
-accessablitity
-only 25years
-erosion moves elsewhere

49
Q

what are the advantages and disadvantages of rock armour

A

-expencive to obtains & transport boulders
-specific rock from Norway ~ igneous rock
+ absorb energy
+ allows beach build up
+ long lasting and effective

50
Q

what are the examples of soft engineering methods

A
  • beach nourishment
  • dune regeneration
  • dune fencing
  • coastal realignments
51
Q

what is beach nourishment

A

adding sand or shingle onto an existing beach to make it taller/wider

52
Q

what are the advantages and disadvantages of beach nourishment

A

+ looks veyr natural
+ increases tourism
+ wider beach = more energy absorbed
-constant maintainence
-beach must be closed
-other methods must be used too

53
Q

what is dune regeneration and fencing

A

planting more marriam grass to establish dunes and help them deveop
adding fences around sand dunes to preserve them from humans and animals

54
Q

what are the advantages and disadvantages of dune regeneration and fencing

A

+ blends in with nature
+ cheaper than other methods
-time consuming
-people can hop the fences
-can be damaged in storms

55
Q

what is coastal realignment

A

controlled flloding to low lying areas controlling the retreat of the coast

56
Q

what does HCCASS stand for

A

headland, crack, cave, arch, stack, stump

57
Q

describe HCCASS

A
  • large crach opened by hybraulic action in headland
  • further erosion depens crack into a cave
  • cave beomce bigger and breaks through forming an arch
  • the top of the arch colapses ~ too much GPE & weathering
  • leaves behind a tall stack
  • weathering causes stack to erode forming a stump
58
Q

what is a spit

A

an area of deposited sediment from LSD where there is a change in direction of the coastline

59
Q

what is a bar

A

an area of deposited material from LSD where there is a chnage of direction in the coastline and two headlands ar ejoined together, creating a lagoon behind it

60
Q

what are the depositional landforms of a coast

A
  • spit
  • bar
  • tombolo
  • sand dunes
61
Q

what are sand dunes

A

hills of sand that can only occur on the coasts, where there is enough sand exposed at low tide to dry out and be blown inland

62
Q

why does sand need to dry out to form sand dunes

A

the sand becomes lighter to move in the wind

63
Q

desribe the formation of sand dunes

A
  • obsicle causes velocity of air to drop
  • colomisers ofrm embryo dune
  • fordunes are formed when embryo dunes colapse and start to grow in height due to denser vegitation
  • starved of sand and sediment
64
Q

what is the example UK coastline

A

swanage in dorset

65
Q

where are examples of hard and soft engineering

A

hard = lyme regis
soft = medmerry

66
Q

where is swange loacted

A
  • in a shelted bay
  • broad sandy beach
  • different rock types = discordent coastline
  • headlands and bays with alternating bands of geology
  • consrtuctive waves
67
Q

what are the features in swanage

A
  • durision head = limestone
  • baliard point = chalk
  • stadland bay = soft clay
  • swanage bay = soft clay